REO Technical Issues/Shop Talk

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TwistedThrottle

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There is a bit of difference with the soft bottles vs. stock. Pinch the tube and squeeze the bottle like mentioned above to help seat the plastic threads to the metal cap, {careful, cross-threading the plastic threads into the metal cap ruins the bottle(I do this at every fill, hot water the first time and at every fill with juice thereafter)} but I have also found that they're so soft that when re threading back onto the cap, flip the bottle upside down so when the bottle is inevitably over-squeezed while screwing the cap back on, it burps the air bubble rather than spew liquid out the spout. It is also much easier for me to completely remove the bottle, cap and tube from the mod at refills. I have since moved on to the refill bottles which makes refills MUCH easier even though I have to re-adjust the 510 to make the air holes line up where I had them, but I think that beats breaking out the tweezers to put the tube back on the 510 pin. 6 of one, half a dozen of another, I prefer the refill bottles with the softies.
 

Papa_Lazarou

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So glad you got that sorted out @Debadoo! Where would we be without our fellow Reonauts?

I’ve got a couple questions about juice bottles. I’ve been happily using the stock ones from Reos in all my mods. Recently one of mine (after years) has started to leak somewhere so I figured it was time to put in a new one. (Smart huh? Haha). Anyway, I got my large extra bottle stash out and found that all of my caps are for transporting juice. 1st question? Is there an easy way to put a whole in a lid so that I can fit some tubing in there? Or.....

Question 2: I got a few of the Soft bottles from Reos when the P-67’s first came out (they have metal caps). I’ve actually never tried them but perhaps it is time? I’ve been going through our threads to see about the many tips I have read about in the past Re proper seating, but can’t seem to find them now. Also, I read something about the tubing that came with them early on was not the correct fit. (Leaking issues). Any better memories out there and tips?

Thank you in advance!

1. You can drill a hole in the bottle cap to fit the tubing through. The size will, of course, depend on the outer diameter of the tubing. Standard issue REO tubing needs a 11/64" hole in the cap. Go slow (slowest speed if your drill allows variable speed) so as not to shred the cap.

2. Soft bottles are great. You might never want to use the standard bottles again. As suggested, you should seat the cap before using, and the hot water fill, pinch, and squeeze method works well. I've not heard of leaking after this prep is done - it's most always been because of imperfect cap seating.
 

Papa_Lazarou

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Thank you all. Such kind wisdom. Now for the refill: is it absolutely necessary to remove the tubing (with bottle intact)? Seems like a lot of work. (Not really lazy just looking for an easier softer way. Haha).

Actually, you get used to it. Pull the bottle/tube out by the tube above the bottle (fingers are fine), push back on to the 510 feed after filling. I used to use tweezers for the last part, now I just wiggle it on with my fingers.
 

TwistedThrottle

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Thank you all. Such kind wisdom. Now for the refill: is it absolutely necessary to remove the tubing (with bottle intact)? Seems like a lot of work. (Not really lazy just looking for an easier softer way. Haha).
I got fat fingers, so for me its absolutely necessary
 

Debadoo

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Question 2: I got a few of the Soft bottles from Reos when the P-67’s first came out (they have metal caps). I’ve actually never tried them but perhaps it is time? I’ve been going through our threads to see about the many tips I have read about in the past Re proper seating, but can’t seem to find them now. Also, I read something about the tubing that came with them early on was not the correct fit. (Leaking issues). Any better memories out there and tips?
I'm also one that finds taking the tube/bottle off at refill is much easier. Fill, put cap on, pinch tube, squeeze bottle, if it has pressure and no hissing or bubbling, put it on the reo and there will be no leaking. You'll love the softies I bet, and the super softies that Jan turned me onto are even better.
 

Robinowitz

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Thank you all for the tutorials. Over the years, I’ve read these techniques but didn’t commit them to memory as I wasn’t using the soft bottles. Will report back after I give it a goin a few days! So glad we have this Forum & its gonna keep going and growing as Reos keeps growing. Yay! Heck @Eric Parlin, I’m willing to put in a down payment right now on the next Reo invention.
 

Eric Parlin

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Thank you all for the tutorials. Over the years, I’ve read these techniques but didn’t commit them to memory as I wasn’t using the soft bottles. Will report back after I give it a goin a few days! So glad we have this Forum & its gonna keep going and growing as Reos keeps growing. Yay! Heck @Eric Parlin, I’m willing to put in a down payment right now on the next Reo invention.
I appreciate the offer for a down payment, but let me get through the design and engineering phase first to make sure everything is going to work as hoped.

Once we get that work done, I'll make sure you are one of the first on the list for the new toy.
 

CMD-Ky

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I appreciate the offer for a down payment, but let me get through the design and engineering phase first to make sure everything is going to work as hoped.

Once we get that work done, I'll make sure you are one of the first on the list for the new toy.

Please make note of those of us who have been supportive of a DNA REO when making a list checking twice.
 
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muzichead

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I know this probably isn't going to be a popular post so don't hang me from the tree just yet!! :shock:

Certainly a DNA REO has been done and does exist. I have seen it done from a VV Grand and a standard grand, both done by the same person, and his words were it was a P.I.A. to do and he would never do it again. Very close quarters and thinner walls after it was completed and that was with the smaller DNA40 boards so I would doubt it could be done with the existing devices and the newer DNA boards that are available today. They are all bigger than the DNA40's of yrs past...

I will also add that for as many people that say they would buy a DNA REO, the 2 that I mentioned in the previous paragraph have shown up a few times in the classifieds here on ECF and have sat stagnant for at least a week+ at a time before they finally sold. This would lead me to believe that a DNA REO isn't something that "most" folks would want and should seriously be very well thought out by @Eric Parlin for future sale. Every time this topic is approached the same 10-15 people throw their name in the hat as to wanting one. It certainly will take more than 10-15 for Eric to get his money back on an endeavor like that...

I remember quite a few that said that if Rob did a larger Woolvil run back in 2015 they would want one but when it came to actually buying them when they were ready quite a few of them just sat until he finally marked them down enough they finally sold... It was either the button placement, finish, color choice, or mostly price was too much for most and they backed out. The price point for a DNA REO almost kills it off before its even made because of the price point that they are being sold for out there right now... I would almost bet that the way the 2015 Woodvils sold was the major reason that Rob never attempted a DNA REO run. Doing a DNA REO run would take a pretty good chunk of capitol to get off the ground and running.
 

Papa_Lazarou

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I know this probably isn't going to be a popular post so don't hang me from the tree just yet!! :shock:

Certainly a DNA REO has been done and does exist. I have seen it done from a VV Grand and a standard grand, both done by the same person, and his words were it was a P.I.A. to do and he would never do it again. Very close quarters and thinner walls after it was completed and that was with the smaller DNA40 boards so I would doubt it could be done with the existing devices and the newer DNA boards that are available today. They are all bigger than the DNA40's of yrs past...

I will also add that for as many people that say they would buy a DNA REO, the 2 that I mentioned in the previous paragraph have shown up a few times in the classifieds here on ECF and have sat stagnant for at least a week+ at a time before they finally sold. This would lead me to believe that a DNA REO isn't something that "most" folks would want and should seriously be very well thought out by @Eric Parlin for future sale. Every time this topic is approached the same 10-15 people throw their name in the hat as to wanting one. It certainly will take more than 10-15 for Eric to get his money back on an endeavor like that...

I remember quite a few that said that if Rob did a larger Woolvil run back in 2015 they would want one but when it came to actually buying them when they were ready quite a few of them just sat until he finally marked them down enough they finally sold... It was either the button placement, finish, color choice, or mostly price was too much for most and they backed out. The price point for a DNA REO almost kills it off before its even made because of the price point that they are being sold for out there right now... I would almost bet that the way the 2015 Woodvils sold was the major reason that Rob never attempted a DNA REO run. Doing a DNA REO run would take a pretty good chunk of capitol to get off the ground and running.

Good post. I agree entirely that this forum alone won't sustain REOs Mods. We are the invested enthusiasts and number in the dozens (at best). The larger vaping community, however, has woken up to squonking in a significant way. Devoid of the appreciation for the pioneering trail that REOs blazed (none of them lived through the blue aquarium foam era, for instance), they have a 'new' set of baseline functionality expectations that includes either modern connections for a mech or regulation (including tc).

This would only work if market penetration got beyond us to them.

With respect to the woodvil run, I think the market for them was fairly saturated by 2015. They're a bit nichey. Similar all-wood designs, SVA's and Lukkos' for example, all hit a demand limit while their metal, resin or composite sister models have not (at least apparently).

Also, as for the form factor (your board size issues), I believe Eric would need to design a new body to accommodate the electronics. A lot of the issues you refer to arose from them being retrofits - the difference between converting the spare bedroom in your house to a sauna and incorporating a sauna in the design of a new house.

Nevertheless, I agree with your core statement - those of us in here do not a whole business make. At least not those of us in here today... which is really the point. This needs to grow the community, and perhaps more importantly, the silent purchasing majority - those who adopt (ie buy) but don't join (ie wouldn't post in here). Risky? You bet. Worth it? Well, I kinda think that's why Eric took the enterprise on.

Love it when you hold a mirror up to us fan boys, BTW. You've always been the tobasco in our gumbo.
 

supertrunker

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Devoid of the appreciation for the pioneering trail that REOs blazed (none of them lived through the blue aquarium foam era, for instance), they have a 'new' set of baseline functionality expectations that includes either modern connections for a mech or regulation (including tc).

a.k.a. a hollow pin in a 510, so it'll break more easily and a bottle that doesn't need a weightlifter's grip to squeeze - pioneering stuff indeed! That catchcup limit on atomiser size hurt Reos just as bigger atties and cloud-chasing was gaining traction. Cloud-chasing competitions? You bet! Guys like KrazyRob and others were doing this way back when. Mundy was twisting wire and new things were being tried to screw every last ounce of performance from a battery without it exploding! Physics lessons ;)

Fact is you cannot be a mechanical mod and a regulated mod at the same time. i have a vv grand. They don't make those and that's why.

Woodvil runs: i collected a lot of wooden mods and i have a Reo Woodvil. How does it compare to a totally handmade one-off from another mod-maker? Well, the price was better, but it's a wood Reo grand.

You've always been the tobasco in our gumbo.
'Tabasco'.

T
 

Robinowitz

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Hey there gang,
I guess this old dog might not be able to learn the new trick of using the soft bottles after all. I was really, really diligent about reading, re-reading all of your suggestions regarding prepping these bottles (hot water, great care in placing metal cap on said bottle so as not to cross-thread them, squeeze both tubing and bottle, etc.). It seems that no matter how many times I tried the technique, I still ended up with small bubbles coming out from the lid. I even tried another bottle just in case I got a bad one (Thanks @Debadoo for your comment on that from a now closed thread on soft bottles).

I bought these with my first P-67 in the winter of 2016 when the P-67’s debuted. Reos had just started carrying them. Are these the same that people are enjoying so much or is it me? (Probably). The tubing is much smaller in diameter than the usual tubing for the hard plastic mods but they appear to fit snuggly. I see that Reos has 2 types of soft bottles available now.

Any thoughts? Thanks!
 

JC Okie

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