I have the RM10 and an authentic. I find both to leak terribly if laid down. If I was able to keep it upright at all times, I would love it. It is airy and the easiest dual I have to build on.
REO Technical Issues/Shop Talk
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i've always carried my devices in a phone case on my belt and that way they remain upright all the time. The Velocity is one of my favourite atties and i think that the flavour and especially the airflow are well worth the leaking risk.
But CMD-Ky is correct - you cannot lay it down unless you've vaped it almost dry.
T
But CMD-Ky is correct - you cannot lay it down unless you've vaped it almost dry.
T
I have a question for y'all. This may seem silly, but should the + pin be in the center of the delrin button, or more towards the front? Or does it matter. Seems like one of my kinda sticks just a lil, and I wonder if maybe it's not moved enough toward the front.
Seems to me as long as there is metal to metal contact, it shouldn't matter. The delrin button is just a pusher to force the two metal parts together. there is a tolerable amount it could be out of center but as long as it isn't loose and floppin around in there, it's fine not being dead center.
I just snagged a vv woodvil from the classies. Now I'm off to rtd for batteries. There's the 16340's and the 18350's that are acceptable in the vv. To me, it's clear the 18350's are the superior battery, but I've never used stacked batteries. Is there a benefit to the lower mAh, Amp and C ratings that the 16340 has compared to the 18350?
The C rating will relate to both batteries and it's essentially a rating in Amps as to the maximum output of the battery.
The VV Grand uses 18350s that are stacked although that is frowned upon these days.
When you stack batteries in series - one on top of another - the voltage doubles, but the current (Amps) remains the same. So you have a 2X 3.7v = [fill in the gap] device. You will need to make coils accordingly.
If you run batteries in parallel, which is usually a side by side configuration, then you will double the Amp rating, but the voltage will remain the same and that typically results in longer battery life as well as the ability to handle very low resistance coils.
You're welcome.
T
The VV Grand uses 18350s that are stacked although that is frowned upon these days.
When you stack batteries in series - one on top of another - the voltage doubles, but the current (Amps) remains the same. So you have a 2X 3.7v = [fill in the gap] device. You will need to make coils accordingly.
If you run batteries in parallel, which is usually a side by side configuration, then you will double the Amp rating, but the voltage will remain the same and that typically results in longer battery life as well as the ability to handle very low resistance coils.
You're welcome.
T
Thanks @supertrunker, so if it's frowned upon to use batteries how a device was designed to work, what should I use? There's not a way I know of to use this device in parallel, that's what I got the Cam m for. That one is set for blastoff at .16 ohm dual twisted and parallel coils in a thump. This is going to be my lil tootle puffer with a 1.8-2 ohm coil @13 watts (15 max)in a rm2 or chalice.
Should I get the black 18350's or the new 800mAh red ones? If I am understanding this right, I should get up to 8.4v(or whatever the safety cutoff for the vv reo is) for 800mAh(or whatever's left over from me probably staying around 5v) by going with the new red batteries. By contrast, I will get less battery time between cycles by going with the 16340 so those are of no interest to me unless they're safer for some reason I don't understand.
I am leaning heavily towards the red 18350's unless the black ones should be used instead for safety reasons? Or don't use the black ones for safety reasons? I've never used protected batteries, only safe chemistry batteries. Should that practice continue here too or is the extra protection needed?
Should I get the black 18350's or the new 800mAh red ones? If I am understanding this right, I should get up to 8.4v(or whatever the safety cutoff for the vv reo is) for 800mAh(or whatever's left over from me probably staying around 5v) by going with the new red batteries. By contrast, I will get less battery time between cycles by going with the 16340 so those are of no interest to me unless they're safer for some reason I don't understand.
I am leaning heavily towards the red 18350's unless the black ones should be used instead for safety reasons? Or don't use the black ones for safety reasons? I've never used protected batteries, only safe chemistry batteries. Should that practice continue here too or is the extra protection needed?
What was damselle using? It must have worked without blowing up.
I asked, she said she never used it
Excessive mod-ism some like to call it, a score for me is what I say
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I'm pretty sure if my understanding is correct, the reds will do fine as long as it stays a tootle puffer. Once I try to push the limits is when there's trouble. I don't want it to blow up in my hand or worse, fry the board
I think I've read in past threads about charging at the same time, marking your batteries and rotating spots 1&2 in the reo and the charger. This makes sense to me as you want the batteries to stay about the same throughout their life cycle.
So upon closer inspection, there doesn't appear to be protected (black) 18350's, just black 16340's. That explains why he offered 2 sizes, protected or safe chemistry.
Sorry for the rambling, helps me decide tho. Red!!!
Excessive mod-ism some like to call it, a score for me is what I say
.I'm pretty sure if my understanding is correct, the reds will do fine as long as it stays a tootle puffer. Once I try to push the limits is when there's trouble. I don't want it to blow up in my hand or worse, fry the board
I think I've read in past threads about charging at the same time, marking your batteries and rotating spots 1&2 in the reo and the charger. This makes sense to me as you want the batteries to stay about the same throughout their life cycle.
So upon closer inspection, there doesn't appear to be protected (black) 18350's, just black 16340's. That explains why he offered 2 sizes, protected or safe chemistry.
Sorry for the rambling, helps me decide tho. Red!!!
yeah I know it's just a pusher, just wondered if it need to be more forward to not snag up a bit when pushing it, or to get it to make better contact with the batt terminal. Or if any of that mattered.
kewl!
I used to use the black 16340 AW's in a Buzz Pro. Never had a problem with them but after awhile I got tired of keeping up with maintaining matched sets. This is the only reason I never bought a Billet Box.
I asked, she said she never used it
Excessive mod-ism some like to call it, a score for me is what I say
I'm pretty sure if my understanding is correct, the reds will do fine as long as it stays a tootle puffer. Once I try to push the limits is when there's trouble. I don't want it to blow up in my hand or worse, fry the board
I think I've read in past threads about charging at the same time, marking your batteries and rotating spots 1&2 in the reo and the charger. This makes sense to me as you want the batteries to stay about the same throughout their life cycle.
So upon closer inspection, there doesn't appear to be protected (black) 18350's, just black 16340's. That explains why he offered 2 sizes, protected or safe chemistry.
Sorry for the rambling, helps me decide tho. Red!!!
I haven't owned a stacked 18350 mod in probably 4 years. I don't even remember what the name of it was; but it was an early VW tube mod. I used to keep my batteries marked, and never separated them, or used them individually in anything else. I didn't go so far as to alternate them in the charger slots, or how I put them in the mod, other than however that happened randomly. But the only 18350s I ever used were the AW IMRs (red).
Hi Deb, I've had to take the thing apart so I could center the copper contact.
That's the only way you can loosen it enough to adjust it .. believe me I've tried to find an easier way, but it just doesn't budge.
I hate having to pull the tubes off, and the metal screw against the delrin ...it's so easy to cause damage ... but that's what it takes to center it again.
jup.......that's why I was asking before going that route to see if that was the issue or if it was something else. It doesn't happen often, but once in awhile it feels like it's sorta hanging up on something when I mash the button. Might just need a good cleaning. lol someone else mentioned that theirs actually got stuck and was firing.Hi Deb, I've had to take the thing apart so I could center the copper contact.
That's the only way you can loosen it enough to adjust it .. believe me I've tried to find an easier way, but it just doesn't budge.
I hate having to pull the tubes off, and the metal screw against the delrin ...it's so easy to cause damage ... but that's what it takes to center it again.
The 'protected' batteries were once recommended since they incorporated a safety circuit at one end, but they needed it because they were using a potentially dangerous combination of metals, which made them unforgiving if they were driven hard.
Since the manganese lithium batteries (IMR) have been produced, these are now the only batteries most people use and with good reason; they are safer chemistry, which means that if you do overdrive them, then they don't explode. Rather they fizz and bubble a little, but nothing too sinister.
There was also a trade off (as there still is) between battery capacity and the ability of that battery to deliver a high level of current continuously, so while you had high capacity batteries, they were unsuitable for vaping because of the high current demands. This is not a surprise, since the batteries we first used were intended for flashlights.
i have a vv Grand and i stack AW 18350's in it. There is a world of difference between a regulated device like that and some of the more brutal mechanical devices, but with anything you have to prioritise enough battery life to get you through the day and provide the vape you like versus carrying a lot of spares with you.
T
Hi, my name is Dinger, and I was just PIF'd a VV Grand. (My first Reo, and I'm STOKED!) Cleaned the contacts with alcohol and loaded a couple of AW 18350s. 1.7 ohm carto. No fire. Fiddled with the voltage wheel. Nothin'.
Thoughts for a newbie Reonaut?
Thoughts for a newbie Reonaut?
wahoooooooooo welcome dinger!!! I'm not familiar with the VV Reos, but I imagine someone will be along to help ya! But welcome to the family. That was a great pif, those are somewhat rare.
Bwah ha ha ha ha ha. I'm an I-D-10-T!!!!!
After skimming these last couple posts, I went to look at my VV, and by golly, THERE'S A LOCK SWITCH!!!!!!!
After skimming these last couple posts, I went to look at my VV, and by golly, THERE'S A LOCK SWITCH!!!!!!!
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