REO Tips & Tricks...some basic troubleshooting ideas

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redeyedancer

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It isn't the atty in this case. I've used several, and 2 differnt kinds. If I detach the bottle and tube, the draw loosens up. Also, I tried transferring this current atty to an eGo batt and the draw is not tight. It's something to do with the REO.

Yes, that is where the air holes for the atomizer are. But what I wondered about was how does air get to those holes when it is screwed onto the catch cup. It isn't through the nipple, not if the bottle and tube are attached. There must be some grooves, holes or something in the cup. I'm trying to figure out what in the mod is clogged because this atty is not clogged on my eGo batt.
Its not the mod your atomizer is sitting in juice this is giving you more resistance . You cant compare a tube mod to a bottom fed mod they will vape differently . Try getting your atomizer hot vape on it for a few good hits remove the atomizer and blow out the excess juice into a napkin this should help remove some of the build up in your atomizer . Some atomizer clog up quick some don't you have to find the atomizer that works best for you . I find cartomizers have a nice airy draw if that is what your after . If you really feel it is the mod your welcome to send it to me I will check it thoroughly
 
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FeistyAlice

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Hi Wolf.., Just plain old hot tap water, run it all thru your mod, make sure you see water coming from the catch cup down thru the tube.

Dry it gently with napkin/paper towel. Add a dab of Noaloz to the firing pin, use a cotton swap dipped a little in rubbing alcohol, run it around the catch cup
and vape like you stole it!


I forgot...remove the battery first!

I prefer running hot water through my mod. Warm is okay, but hot is better. Doesn't need to be boiling though. I tend to just turn the faucet on hot and flush the entire mod with the hot water from all angles.

Wouldn't hurt to run hot water through catchcup and tube several times using syringe. Although my house is "Home of The Swimming REOs" I do prefer to give black cover area some gentle blowouts with canned air and then air dry overnight, or longer, before using.

I also like to give metal REOs a dunk and swish in bowl of 90% ISOPROLPYL alcohol or higher to clear out as much water as possible before air drying. PGA or hot water through tube after alcohol rinse too.

My REO bath routine has more steps but people don't have to do much more.

Feisty Alice
 

Rhapsodies Fire

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I have a problem with a slippery door that I know a Reonaut would know how to fix. The wooden door slides down when I pick up my mod. I've tried putting some lip balm on the edges of the door to no avail. I think I read something about using wax but I don't have any wax around but will get some it that is the only fix.
hey terry, if the door is really that loose just put a few drops of super glue on one side of the door and smooth it out to a film and LET DRY
before putting the door back on. if thats not enough do the other side of the door. if you get too much and the door sticks you can gently sand it to fit.

From http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/366082-slippery-sliding-door-problem.html
 

TennDave

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Let me add to the above that especially if your Reo has a finished wood surface, take caution- the super glue dripped on the nice finish is not a good thing- avoid any accidents by using Feed-N-Wax or even some vasoline to the surface of the wood before you do this. This will keep the super glue from adhering the the beautiful finished wood of your Reo in the chance that a little super glue leaks past the grooves you are applying it to!!

(I applied the super glue to the grooves and let it run down the length of the groove- not the door but either the edge of the door or the groove works well!).
 
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Racehorse

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Thanks so much for that link! I'm going to get a multimeter today! He covered how to test the atty's, but what settings do you use to test AW IMR 14500 3.7V 600mah batteries. Also if someone could chime in to the numbers I'm looking to get for the batteries and also the LR306 Cisco atty's to make sure they are working good, maybe a range of what is considered good and what is bad. Thanks so much!


Can somebody explain to me how I can test the atty connector in the REO mini with my multimeter?

The atty I'm using tests fine, and works on my REO Grand.

Experiencing mis-firing or no firing on the reo mini, and I've given it a thorough cleaning, re-applied naolox on tip of metal firing pin, checked batteries, firing button itself, etc. Sides of firing button felt a tad bit "sticky" so that was cleaned as well.

So------That leaves the actual atty connector inside the catch cup as not being good?

Could the rubber insulator in the atty connector wear out with age --- even if not used and just stored in a drawer?

I really do not want to send this in....I will be travelling and need this in my possession.
 
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Racehorse

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nerak

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Okay, thanks JC, will try this. :)

Still want to know if I can take a reading of some sort on the atty connector? I have the Hongda DT-95C from RTD Vapors if that helps....
http://www.rtdvapor.com/images/stories/virtuemart/product/hongda.jpg

I think you should start a thread with this question. Many more will see it and perhaps you will get an answer. Myself, I don't know how to do it, or want to try! It is to scary for me.

You can buy a rebuild kit from reosmods if you think the gasket in the connector is broken. It is very easy to rebuild. Robert even has a video on reosmods to show you.
 

nerak

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Can somebody explain to me how I can test the atty connector in the REO mini with my multimeter?

The atty I'm using tests fine, and works on my REO Grand.

Experiencing mis-firing or no firing on the reo mini, and I've given it a thorough cleaning, re-applied naolox on tip of metal firing pin, checked batteries, firing button itself, etc. Sides of firing button felt a tad bit "sticky" so that was cleaned as well.

So------That leaves the actual atty connector inside the catch cup as not being good?

Could the rubber insulator in the atty connector wear out with age --- even if not used and just stored in a drawer?

I really do not want to send this in....I will be travelling and need this in my possession.

You can file the little point on the firing mechanism too. That might help if there is some build-up.
 

Racehorse

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Yeah, I did take an emory board to the firing in, once quick swipe, and then naoloxed it before I ended up having to take it apart as that didn't help. ;) but thanks for the reminded.


Okay JC, gently pushed on the atty connector from inside the REO.

Black firing button thoroughly cleaned, firing pin is cleaned and fine, everything is spotless and all put together properly again. It's GOT to be the atty connector on the Mini REO itself.

Just tested a 2.2ohm shorty carto on my multimeter, then placed it on my other REO (known-good Grand)......worked fine.

Put the same carto on the reo Mini........ barely fires (kinda half heartedly fires, then misifres) and then does not fire at ALL. Tried both IMR and AW protected batts.

I don't know about buying a rebuild kit, since it's only that one piece I need.

P.S. only thing I've ever used on this is a Cisco 306 atty. w/a long barrel drip tip..
 
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muriarte

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The way to check the connector is like this:

Place your multimeter leads on the connectors center and wall and, press the fire button and check for voltage; if there is too much jumping you have a dirty connection, probably you need to file a little of the fire pin with an emory board and apply some noalox.

If your connection is fine, there should be a steady reading of the volts your battery gives.
 

Racehorse

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Just a thought but try using the rough side of a nail file on the tip. A light scrap with an emery board may not have been enough.

Okay, will do!

It's just that there is not a WHOLE LOT of firing pin there, I mean, doesn't that eventually grind it down after keeping doing it? That was a concern I had.

How much does a metal file end up "taking off" after let's say 5 times of doing that in a few months time?


The way to check the connector is like this:

Place your multimeter leads on the connectors center and wall and, press the fire button and check for voltage; if there is too much jumping you have a dirty connection>

If your connection is fine, there should be a steady reading of the volts your battery gives.

Thank you, muriarte. I need to know what to set the multimeter on, so I included a link to the photo of it. :) Test it like I would test an atty, or test it like I would test a battery?

I probably can't do this anyway, now that I just tried. You need 3 hands. 1 hand each to hold the leads to the atty connector, and another person to press the button on the reo. I'm by myself here.

Thanks for helping me everybody. !

My mom's in the hospital.....won't know if serious or not til tomorrow or next day after tests..... I have been checking airline reservations, and this could not happen at a worse time, I really need my vape gear to take with me in the event I have to scoot out of here at a moment's notice. To be honest, I almost wanted to just go have a cigarette today for the first time in 8+ months. :(

HOWEVER, I decided to see this as an OPPORTUNITY to LEARN MORE about how to fix and maintain my REOs, otherwise, I would have just put it into a package and sent off to the spa. :)

And, it's keeping my mind occupied at least, instead of worrying. Mom is 85-86 and very frail, so it could be anything, or nothing.
 

Racehorse

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Okay, I turned into an octopus. ;)

I figured out how to get the leads placed correctly on the atty connector while also being able to press the button.

muriarte, or somebody who knows:


Here are the only instructions that I was able to find for the Honda Multimeter (sorry, I know this is a reo topic but shout out to Altsmoke for providing a great picture tutorial for this multimeter...many other vendors sell it and there are no tutorials on their site......and No instructions came with the actual multimeter, which is how it is and we are used to these things).

How to test the voltage of a battery:
1.) Set the multimeter dial to the 200 V DC setting.
2.) Hold the red probe on the positive + end of your battery and the black probe on the negative - end.
3.) A 3.7V battery should read about 4.1 or 4.2V straight off the charger and need to be recharged when they reach 3.6V (or before)

How to test the resistance of an atomizer:
1.) Set the multimeter dial to the 200 Ω setting.
2.) Touch the two probes together and make a note of the reading. You will subtract this later as it eliminates the internal resistance of the multimeter.
3.) Place the red probe on the center post of the atomizer and place the black probe on the threading. Your read out may fluctuate a bit but hold them there long enough to get a reliable reading.
4.) Subtract the reading obtained in the first step from the reading obtained in the previous step. This is the resistance of your atomizer.

So do I test the atty connector the same way I would test an atty, or test it on the volts side where I test my batteries? I'm thinking the latter?

I am sure this information will come in handy to others as well as me.

Also, what should the reading be? (If this procedure is already in the troubleshooting area, I apologize for repeating it -- otherwise, maybe this can become "How to Test a REO Atty Connector in the troubleshooting guide.
 

muriarte

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Like you would test a battery. What you want to know is if the current is stable. So checking the battery will read a voltage, let´s say 3.8, then place the batt in the mod, place you leads on the 510 connector, push the button and check the voltage again, it should read 3.7 or something around that... if you reading jumps, then you have a poor connection and should check the firing pin.
 
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ancient puffer

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Hey RH! Kudos for doing this yourself, takes nerve! :)

Here's what I did.

1) set meter for resistance (ohms) and without firing the REO, read between positive and negative. (Positive is center, negative is outside rim) Result should be "open", i.e., no connection (on my meter, indicated by "1 ." and yes, there's a space between the 1 and the . )

2) set meter to volts, holding red on positive and black lead on negative, should show 0 volts until you fire it, when you press the button, you should get a reasonable, steady reading (mine was 4.05v).

One other possibility comes to mind, you might want to remove the spring, clean UNDER it and apply a dab of noalox where it connects to the body.

If none of these help, then I'd PM Rob (Redeyedancer), he will for sure have the answer.

Hope that helps, please keep us advised, we all get on pins and needles when a REOville neighbor is having troubles.
 
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Racehorse

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Hey RH! Kudos for doing this yourself, takes nerve! :)

Ha ha thanks ... that makes me think my life is WAY too hard...cuz this is like nothing really, compared to the stuff I've gone thru "homesteading" out in the woods as a gal who lived in NYC and cities for 1/2 her life. But thank you so much for the compliment, and the encouragement, and mostly for just "hangin' in there with me."

Gotta be self sufficient, I will do whatever I need to try to get as close to that ideal as possible anyway. If I can't maintain it and fix it, I don't want it......seriously.
 

Racehorse

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Okay, major RED ALERT. Figured I'd do the atty connector testing on the known-good REO GRAND, just to see what the readings "should" be.

Collapsed the spring on the Grand.

Probes must have shorted the atty connector?

Which is not a problem, the problem is that I have every tool known to man, and I CANNOT GET THE BOTTOM SCREW OUT TO CHANGE OUT THE SPRING.

I have all those tiny little screwdrivers, a couple collections of them, and the screw will not come out. I just compared it to the screw on bottom of the mini....its not nearly as big. (+ is not very big at all). Machine shops / computer repair shops are closed, otherwise, I'd run it into town. Guess I will do that in the morning.


So now..........I have no vape. At the moment...............


Gotta go look for my backup ego kit........... Be back.
 
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