One should try wrapping the bottom threads with some Teflon tape and see if that snug it.
REOs not performing well?
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I asked Robert about his "fix" for it a while back, but I can't honestly remember what he said except something vague about a "bracket" (which could be totally wrong). So, Robert, when you're back from fishing AND things settle down a bit, is the "official fix" something we could do at home with minimum experience in working with metal?
I'm sure another fix is to find a slightly larger thread screw of the same length.
Couldn't find the thread on ECF but on our local site EcigsSA it was posted - Solution for button mashers | Electronic Cigarettes Forum South Africa
When I first got my Reo this was implemented immediately, works like a charm. Above Reo is not mine.
Well I rebuilt Pink thanks to Rob's video, boy I missed her and the Rogue on top. Slipped an o ring over the firing button and perfection! Thanks guys! Of course I just ordered a bunch more pin things from Rob! Happy dance!
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I don't think its a job for most people . A guy with a little mechanical ability can pull it off . I use a punch if you place it just before the threaded hole and wack it with a hammer you can close the threaded hole up enough your screw will work . I use to make a bracket for these but I find it easier to use a flat punch and it looks factory
new member here. wanted to say hi. i have one reo grand lp sl in wrinkle black with hammer tone door. will be getting a white lp sl this week to use as a back up or just for a different flavor
i have a question. i have a reomiser 5.0. does anyone know how to remove the afc? i would like to remove it so i can put some teflon tape on the threads to tighten it up a bit. mine is very loose
As far as I know, you cant take the AFC ring off. Reomiser 5 aka Double Cross, is a 2 piece atty.
I have had few people send me their mods recently. They're aggravated they paid a lot of money for a mod and its not running like it was when they first got their mod.
I totally understand I would be unhappy myself. Their mods were dirty. It took me 10 seconds and they were running perfectly. I know this because I tested them before and after under load. If you want to have a mechanical mod you need to maintain it, simple as that. Mechanical mods are great if you understand them... you cant beat them for reliability. The down side is you have to clean them and apply noalox. For me its about every two months. For some, it could be less time or more.
The most important thing is keeping the positive battery contact clean. You need a small flat file or an emery board or even a piece of sand paper will work. Scuff up the point of the contact, put a drop of noalox on the very tip of the positive contact and your mod will run like its brand new.
You cant stop a mechanical mod it will run perfect for years and years if you just take the time to clean it properly. I hope people don't think I am going off on a rant. I am not. I am trying to help
Under running water! Doesn't moisture stay under the screwed on part that houses the switch?
I clean my contacts with some alcohol and a pencil eraser. That does the trick on the mechs.
Dries out quickly, I've never had a problem. Since you quoted an older instruction set. I'll remind people. do not file or emery board the new gold contacts only do that to old silver colored contacts.
Like SuperX says: DeOxit Gold
Been using it for years on gold plated contacts for electronic connections etc. the spray is good for many applications, but is diluted. I just got some of the pure stuff in anticipation of my first Reo, a 14500, coming later today if the post office can get it right!
Amazon.com: DeoxITGOLD Liquid, squeeze tube 100% solution 2 ml - G100L-2C: Electronics
REOS MINI 14500 OWNERS:
Haka Meter. 3 modes, Voltage/Ohms/Watts 14mm, 510/Ego.
This looks like an interesting tool for manual mods, since other then device and vapor feedback, knowing when your battery is running low, is IMPORTANT, as you don't want to run them down too low. That number is remaining battery VOLTAGE. Under load (when firing your atty), is perhaps the best indicator, and while sitting NO load, is also a decent indicator, but will show a slightly higher voltage. Doing this with a multi-meter is inconvenient at best. I thought this device might be quick and easy, just screw it on top of your mod's 510 connection. I'm mostly interested in getting a quick idea voltage wise how much battery life I have left before swapping out batteries. The lowest voltage you should swap batteries out is sometimes debated, many battery specs say lowest is 2.5 volts, most don't like to let their batteries get below 3.0 volts, and most notice their vapor diminish after getting lower then approx. 3.5 - 3.6. This might be a good quick way to know whenever you are curious or in doubt.
I've seen clear and colored versions of 510 battery voltage readers (Eleaf etc.), most ONLY read voltage, cost approx. $15, and come in a 22mm size, these may be fine for most mods, but NOT on the tiny Reo Mini 14500 (would certainly hit button cover).
What separates this brand, is it's 14mm diameter, and should fit fine on a 14500 Mini, and has the three measurements, voltage, ohms, wattage. Double checking ohms while using isn't a bad thing either, as atty post screws do loosen themselves up at times too.
I just bought two of these in black. They make a silver version too. I've seen them as cheap as $10/each. Some sites list the ohms range as "unlimited", this site shows down to a .7 ohm limit. Not many reviews, but from the little I could find, it is not ideal for low ohm vapors, and did not work on really low ohm builds. Not an issue for me, and the wattage and voltage ranges would still be fine. Some of you may have seen this, just sharing it for those who have not.
Haka Meter Voltage/Ohms/Watts Tester - Black
Haka Meter. 3 modes, Voltage/Ohms/Watts 14mm, 510/Ego.
This looks like an interesting tool for manual mods, since other then device and vapor feedback, knowing when your battery is running low, is IMPORTANT, as you don't want to run them down too low. That number is remaining battery VOLTAGE. Under load (when firing your atty), is perhaps the best indicator, and while sitting NO load, is also a decent indicator, but will show a slightly higher voltage. Doing this with a multi-meter is inconvenient at best. I thought this device might be quick and easy, just screw it on top of your mod's 510 connection. I'm mostly interested in getting a quick idea voltage wise how much battery life I have left before swapping out batteries. The lowest voltage you should swap batteries out is sometimes debated, many battery specs say lowest is 2.5 volts, most don't like to let their batteries get below 3.0 volts, and most notice their vapor diminish after getting lower then approx. 3.5 - 3.6. This might be a good quick way to know whenever you are curious or in doubt.
I've seen clear and colored versions of 510 battery voltage readers (Eleaf etc.), most ONLY read voltage, cost approx. $15, and come in a 22mm size, these may be fine for most mods, but NOT on the tiny Reo Mini 14500 (would certainly hit button cover).
What separates this brand, is it's 14mm diameter, and should fit fine on a 14500 Mini, and has the three measurements, voltage, ohms, wattage. Double checking ohms while using isn't a bad thing either, as atty post screws do loosen themselves up at times too.
I just bought two of these in black. They make a silver version too. I've seen them as cheap as $10/each. Some sites list the ohms range as "unlimited", this site shows down to a .7 ohm limit. Not many reviews, but from the little I could find, it is not ideal for low ohm vapors, and did not work on really low ohm builds. Not an issue for me, and the wattage and voltage ranges would still be fine. Some of you may have seen this, just sharing it for those who have not.
Haka Meter Voltage/Ohms/Watts Tester - Black
so I did some more dumb ....... REOs still seems to not be hitting as hard as they used to (yes, I cleaned them) and so I read where you should scuff the contact....... then later read not to do that to the new gold ones. GAH. I think I did this like 3x to each! When will I stop doing dumb sht? I swear I'm losing my edge.
So, another question - since I am a masher. What size o-rings are you guys using on you buttons to prevent mashing? Also, where would I go to purchase just some o-rings?
So, another question - since I am a masher. What size o-rings are you guys using on you buttons to prevent mashing? Also, where would I go to purchase just some o-rings?
The ones Rob sells on his site for the 3ml bottle cap seals.
Hi All,
I'm on 2.5 weeks of a 2 strand 28g dual twisted coils. They are 7 wraps each which is showing to be 0.35 Ω on a RM8. Last night I was having issues firing on a fully charged 2 month old AW IMR 18650 2200mah 20A battery.
I cleaned the contacts off and dabbed noalox on both the top of the spring and the bottom of the firing pin. I tried adjusting my 510 to make sure I was making contact. My battery is getting warm after 2-3 5 second puffs and misfiring. This is concerning to me, it's also getting warm moreso by the nipple of the battery.
What's going on?
Tonight I rebuilt the 2 coils to 0.35 Ω again, brand new coils, made sure the legs where better and that the coils are not touching or close to touching anything. After looking at it, could it be my firing pin?
I'm on 2.5 weeks of a 2 strand 28g dual twisted coils. They are 7 wraps each which is showing to be 0.35 Ω on a RM8. Last night I was having issues firing on a fully charged 2 month old AW IMR 18650 2200mah 20A battery.
I cleaned the contacts off and dabbed noalox on both the top of the spring and the bottom of the firing pin. I tried adjusting my 510 to make sure I was making contact. My battery is getting warm after 2-3 5 second puffs and misfiring. This is concerning to me, it's also getting warm moreso by the nipple of the battery.
What's going on?
Tonight I rebuilt the 2 coils to 0.35 Ω again, brand new coils, made sure the legs where better and that the coils are not touching or close to touching anything. After looking at it, could it be my firing pin?
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