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Wacky! Lemme think about that one...
With your air flow completely closed (tank/glass installed) are you able to draw air? If so, your o-rings might need to be replaced as you don't have a sealed system. When you take a puff with the tank installed, do you see tiny air bubbles coming from the coil? The bubbles indicate juice flowing to the coil.
That is one of the things I was worried about. The pressure in the tank is what prevents leaking. However as you vape and juice flows into the wick, it has to allow some air back into the tank. If this does not happen the pressure inside the tank drops and it will not allow any more juice into the wick. Since this only happens with some coils that goes back to my initial assumption about the wicking being too thick.
Once one of these "dud" coils starts to act up (and only when you have a spare in case this doesn't work) try using the sharp edge of a pair of tweezers, or a needle to gently separate some of the fibers of the wick exposed to the wick holes. The hope here is that this will allow the tank to self pressurize correctly. You may even need to rake a little but completely out. Keep in mind if you rake too much it may cause leaking.
@Storm52 I replaced the supposed "dud" last night but with this new atomizer, it still has a tiny bit of air flow even when sealed shut. I don't think I've ever seen air bubbles, maybe one after I fill it from empty to full but I'm not positive.
I changed it last night and it's working great, I primed it properly but then again the dud worked fine at first too. I suspect you're right because I used a thumb tack to poke a few holes in each cotton chamber because it seemed really stiff or stale and that helped I think. This is how all of these atomizers are, but maybe this one in particular is too packed.
I have some extras so I'll trim the fat from the dud and test it out.
It's interesting- when I was priming this new atomizer, I noticed a rough patch of cotton in one of three chambers. Probably about 2/3rds of the chamber is harder than the rest and it wasn't absorbing juice like the rest. You can tell because this part stayed a light color while the rest would soak into a grey.
This seems problematic. While most of the cotton is soaked, this little rough patch could be giving me a slightly burnt taste (its great now, but maybe in a few days that will change).
Note: I usually get Coil Art replacement atomizers for my tank, I realized last night that I bought 10 name brand "Aspire Cleito" atomizers. Although, I didn't have any problems with the first 5 pack.
I changed it last night and it's working great, I primed it properly but then again the dud worked fine at first too. I suspect you're right because I used a thumb tack to poke a few holes in each cotton chamber because it seemed really stiff or stale and that helped I think. This is how all of these atomizers are, but maybe this one in particular is too packed.
I have some extras so I'll trim the fat from the dud and test it out.
It's interesting- when I was priming this new atomizer, I noticed a rough patch of cotton in one of three chambers. Probably about 2/3rds of the chamber is harder than the rest and it wasn't absorbing juice like the rest. You can tell because this part stayed a light color while the rest would soak into a grey.
This seems problematic. While most of the cotton is soaked, this little rough patch could be giving me a slightly burnt taste (its great now, but maybe in a few days that will change).
Note: I usually get Coil Art replacement atomizers for my tank, I realized last night that I bought 10 name brand "Aspire Cleito" atomizers. Although, I didn't have any problems with the first 5 pack.
It's possible that you just got a bad batch of coils. The things are made by machines that turn out multiple coils by the minute and if some stems, seeds or even binding gets mixed in with the fluffy stuff, a lot more than one coil is screwed.
You might also suffer from high expectations, depending on how much juice you go through before a coil goes south on you. Coil life also depends on the chemical makeup of your juice. Unfortunately, the best tasting juices are the ones that foul up coils quicker. And you tend to use more of it because it tastes so damned good.
You might also suffer from high expectations, depending on how much juice you go through before a coil goes south on you. Coil life also depends on the chemical makeup of your juice. Unfortunately, the best tasting juices are the ones that foul up coils quicker. And you tend to use more of it because it tastes so damned good.
True. It's likely a bad batch. No doubt my expectations are high but if the cotton looked past due, I would move on quietly lol. Now to find a cheaper source of replacement atomizers...
Mystery mostly solved. Thanks everyone!
Poor quality control of the factory when speaking about premade factory-made drop-in coils. These factories manufacture literally thousands of these things, all by hand. It runs across all brand names, although some brands have a better track record than others.
Back in the day when we used cartomizers, it wasn't uncommon to get a couple of dud cartos out of a five pack. At one point Boge had a slew of dud cartos, which was named Boge Gate. There were only a few carto manufacturers: Boge, Smoktech, Ikenvape, and Kanger. They all suffered periods of poor quality control. Probably why cartomizers and cartotanks are a dying breed today.
Today's clearomizer replacement coils seem to have better QC than yesterday's cartomizers. I've been using the Uwell Crown clearomizer for over a year and have yet to get a dud. The coils last me at least 4 weeks. I'm impressed and its why I always give them a shout out.
When you fill the tank are you leaving a gap at the top? I mean, are you leaving a slight empty space above the juice level for an air pocket? Doing that may help. Also, are you using these coils?
Atomizer head/ Replacement Coil for Aspire Cleito
Kanthal must be used in Power (Wattage) Mode:
Atomizer head/ Replacement Coil for Aspire Cleito
Kanthal must be used in Power (Wattage) Mode:
- Kanthal - 0.2ohm (Recommended Wattage Range: 55 - 70W)
- Kanthal - 0.4ohm (Recommended Wattage Range: 40 - 60W)
I fill up the juice right above the cotton chambers, so thats about 50% of the tank. And when it gets lower than the chambers, I angle/rotate my mod slightly to allow the chambers to soak.
It's not called Kanthal, I use either Aspire or Coil Art atomizers but yes that is the right ohm and wattage.
I've always used 0.2hm coils and vaped at 55w or higher but I bought a new mod and it feels more powerful. 45w is the highest I can handle on my Geekvape Aegis, my mod before was Fuchai 200w.
So the next coils I buy will be 0.4ohm.
I thought about this at one point. Can using lower wattage than recommended per Ohms have an effect on cotton not absorbing juice properly?
Thanks I wasn’t sure if maybe the wires are “bad” or too much wicking material etc is what makes a dud.
sara
A few times, it doesn't happen often though. The last few 0.2ohm coils I've used with my GeekVape Aegis at 40w have been fine, it was the first coil of this new pack which I categorized as a dud. This second coil from this pack seems to be good but I've only been using it for 24 hours so far.
I have three 0.2ohm coils left now.
If the coils worked substantially better at the suggested Wattage range then your answer is probably to use them in that Wattage range. I think you could try a few things to make do until you get the 0.40 Ohm coils in. I would suggest:
- keep the airflow wide open
- take short puffs, as short as you can, then use your breath to fill in the volume of your inhale
- use a longer drip tip if you have one
- stay on the lower end of the suggested range
When a tank is full and it starts to to empty there is a gradual vacuum created. This is why gas engines have vents on their tanks. I don't think that is the problem because you should get air bubbles coming from the wicks. I've had some coils that didn't wick very well and what I did was run a sewing needle through the cotton. If you're vaping and you don't see air bubble in tank afterwards that is an indication if poor wicking
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