Replacing the 510 in an RX200... Fairly easy actually.

[EverPresentNoob]

Ok, so I had an issue with my RX not working at all with one of my favorite tanks, and found that it was due to a shoddy 510 in the mod. Also I found that the spring in the 510 wouldnt allow the pin to conpress far enough for some tanks and RDA's to thread all the way in, and when they were screwed in all the way they were sitting a few degrees off center. Not a lot, but seeing space under one side of the tank/RDA was annoying the hell out of OCD me. So what could I do... Well replace it with a 22mm Fat Daddy Vapes 510 of course!

Here are pics of how I went about it. Mind you these were taken the day after I did the initial install so the FDV 510 is already in it...

Step one, gather the required tools... Your gonna need a small philips (Size PH0), and a small torx (size t4). Also a small flat head, tweezers, soldering iron, possibly needle nose pliers and something to hold the darn body in. I have a small machinists vise that is the perfect size.



Dont mind the fact that my BFT is still on it, the nut on my FDV came loose so I cant unscrew it just yet... But before you start, remove the damn tank...

Start unscrewing the screws in the battery tray. they are all philips head. the center two under the red dots are pan heads, the three under the yellow dots are tapered heads. Not sure if that makes a differance, but I thought it best to note and put together the same way. Under the blue dot is a foam plug. pull it out with your tweezers and there is a gold screw that attached the ground strap to the board. When yo remove the 4 bottom screws the front cover will come off... Dont loose the buttons!! Here is a shot of the two screw types... Cap on left.





There is a small torx screw in the top and the bottom, remove both.



Now it would seem the battery tray is loose... But its not. You have to desolder or cut the positive wire from the bottom of the batt tray from the side of the board. I like how they did the board, instead of a through hole, they slotted the board. grab the wire with your tweezers or pliers and gently pull sideways as you heat the solder and it will slide right out.

 

[EverPresentNoob]

It makes it a lot easier if you de solder the small black and red wires at the bottom of the board. the black one is a tad short and it is hard to manipulate the batt tray with it still connected.

apparently I didnt take a pic of the black wire disconnected.. But Im sure you can figure out how it looks when desoldered....

Now you can start pulling out the batt tray. The red wire you desoldered from the bottom of the tray may be routed under the board. On one if mine it was, on one it wasnt... Go figure. Just be careful when sliding out the tray.


Tray removed.

 

[EverPresentNoob]

At this point, desolder the wires from the 510. I cant show you this, as its already replaced... But if your following this far Im sure you can figure it out. In that last pic under the positive wire there is a small gold screw. On the front of the board there is another gold screw. remove both of these and you can slide the board out. THe factory 510 simply slides into two grooves in the underside of the top. I used a drill bit and carefully and slowly drilled the hole out so that the FDV fit in it.

 

[EverPresentNoob]

At this point, desolder the wires from the 510. I cant show you this, as its already replaced... But if your following this far Im sure you can figure it out. In that last pic under the positive wire there is a small gold screw. On the front of the board there is another gold screw. remove both of these and you can slide the board out. THe factory 510 simply slides into two grooves in the underside of the top. I used a drill bit and carefully and slowly drilled the hole out so that the FDV fit in it. resolder the wires to teh ground ring and 510 pos terminal. again, sorry no pic of that...

Now you get to recess the batt tray to fit the new 510. I used a low profile one. here are the cuts I had to make...



In that last pic you can see the ground strap that was under the foam plug. when reinstalling the tray you may have to bend and tweak this a bit to get it to clear your 510. I was about 30 seconds from removing it and making a replacement out of wire... it was actually the hardest part of the fitting. it is hidden and hard to tell what its hitting on.

Once all this is done, assembly is pretty much just reversing everything you just did.

One other thing to notice, when the buttons come off the board with the front faceplate there are little white bumpers around them. These are not glued on. if they come off, no worries, they simply stick on with friction. just dont forget them when reassembling them.



There you go. you have now put a nice happy FDV 510 in your RX. Varitube woudl probably work just as well, but I find them harder to solder and they might be a touch longer and that could pose an issue. the 510 almost touches the connection of the 510 pos wire on the board. look back up at my pics and you can see it.

Also I wanted my 510 deck to stand proud fo the mod body so I didnt grind down the two curved ribs in the mod. if you want the deck even with the mod top you can use a dremel to grind them down. I left them so that larger mods such as my 30mm BFT woudnt scratch the mod when attaching and removing it.

Enjoy!!

 

[ImThatGuy]

Great write up with visuals!

 

[Landman]

Nice work!

 

[suprtrkr]

Thank you. As soon as I have a couple hours free... I believe I just happen to have a couple FDV V4s laying around...

 

[Johntodd]

Nice!

 

[WillyZee]

well done

 

[arh32]

At this point, desolder the wires from the 510. I cant show you this, as its already replaced... But if your following this far Im sure you can figure it out. In that last pic under the positive wire there is a small gold screw. On the front of the board there is another gold screw. remove both of these and you can slide the board out. THe factory 510 simply slides into two grooves in the underside of the top. I used a drill bit and carefully and slowly drilled the hole out so that the FDV fit in it. resolder the wires to teh ground ring and 510 pos terminal. again, sorry no pic of that...

Now you get to recess the batt tray to fit the new 510. I used a low profile one. here are the cuts I had to make...Dude you are the man... I would jump on it myself but reading what you have done and your pics helps lots. Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



In that last pic you can see the ground strap that was under the foam plug. when reinstalling the tray you may have to bend and tweak this a bit to get it to clear your 510. I was about 30 seconds from removing it and making a replacement out of wire... it was actually the hardest part of the fitting. it is hidden and hard to tell what its hitting on.

Once all this is done, assembly is pretty much just reversing everything you just did.

One other thing to notice, when the buttons come off the board with the front faceplate there are little white bumpers around them. These are not glued on. if they come off, no worries, they simply stick on with friction. just dont forget them when reassembling them.



There you go. you have now put a nice happy FDV 510 in your RX. Varitube woudl probably work just as well, but I find them harder to solder and they might be a touch longer and that could pose an issue. the 510 almost touches the connection of the 510 pos wire on the board. look back up at my pics and you can see it.

Also I wanted my 510 deck to stand proud fo the mod body so I didnt grind down the two curved ribs in the mod. if you want the deck even with the mod top you can use a dremel to grind them down. I left them so that larger mods such as my 30mm BFT woudnt scratch the mod when attaching and removing it.

Enjoy!!

 

[arh32]

At this point, desolder the wires from the 510. I cant show you this, as its already replaced... But if your following this far Im sure you can figure it out. In that last pic under the positive wire there is a small gold screw. On the front of the board there is another gold screw. remove both of these and you can slide the board out. THe factory 510 simply slides into two grooves in the underside of the top. I used a drill bit and carefully and slowly drilled the hole out so that the FDV fit in it. resolder the wires to teh ground ring and 510 pos terminal. again, sorry no pic of that...

Now you get to recess the batt tray to fit the new 510. I used a low profile one. here are the cuts I had to make...



In that last pic you can see the ground strap that was under the foam plug. when reinstalling the tray you may have to bend and tweak this a bit to get it to clear your 510. I was about 30 seconds from removing it and making a replacement out of wire... it was actually the hardest part of the fitting. it is hidden and hard to tell what its hitting on.

Once all this is done, assembly is pretty much just reversing everything you just did.

One other thing to notice, when the buttons come off the board with the front faceplate there are little white bumpers around them. These are not glued on. if they come off, no worries, they simply stick on with friction. just dont forget them when reassembling them.



There you go. you have now put a nice happy FDV 510 in your RX. Varitube woudl probably work just as well, but I find them harder to solder and they might be a touch longer and that could pose an issue. the 510 almost touches the connection of the 510 pos wire on the board. look back up at my pics and you can see it.

Also I wanted my 510 deck to stand proud fo the mod body so I didnt grind down the two curved ribs in the mod. if you want the deck even with the mod top you can use a dremel to grind them down. I left them so that larger mods such as my 30mm BFT woudnt scratch the mod when attaching and removing it.

Enjoy!!

Sorry bout that last post dont know where it went.. Nube you are the man. I was just going to do this on my own but its nice to have a run down of it. You did a very nice job of explaining how to do it. You could be a teacher if you wanted to be I think. Good job!!!!!!!!!!

 

[EverPresentNoob]

Nah, my mom was a teacher and my dad was a principal... I joined the Marines... Glad you like it and hope it helps. if you get stuck with anything shoot me a PM and Ill try to help out. Its pretty easy. Just be careful and take your time drilling the hole out, the bit will tend to catch and try to jump around a bit. the way the plate is inside the body you cant use a step bit...

 

[suprtrkr]

I wonder how hard it would be to replace that janky azz #57 gauge positive wire off the sled with a real wire...

 

[arh32]

Nah, my mom was a teacher and my dad was a principal... I joined the Marines... Glad you like it and hope it helps. if you get stuck with anything shoot me a PM and Ill try to help out. Its pretty easy. Just be careful and take your time drilling the hole out, the bit will tend to catch and try to jump around a bit. the way the plate is inside the body you cant use a step bit...

Thank you Brother but I think I got this. Helo hobby keeps me on my toes with the soldering and what not. I just think its great that you send what you have done out to everyone who it will help" myself included". haha Keep up the good work.

 

[arh32]

I wonder how hard it would be to replace that janky azz #57 gauge positive wire off the sled with a real wire...

Just solders bro. Less its a funky thing I dont know about.

 

[EverPresentNoob]

Simple. just desolder from the battery button and replace with your own wire. damn... I had 24G silicon wire I was planning on doing that with. Guess what I forgot to do... But I believe that this wire is for the on board balance charging... Which I wont use. I have a nice external charger I use. I dont care how safe they say they are, I dont like the idea of onboard charging three batteries in series.

 

[suprtrkr]

I had not considered charging balance. But I won't use it either.

Simple. just desolder from the battery button and replace with your own wire. damn... I had 24G silicon wire I was planning on doing that with. Guess what I forgot to do... But I believe that this wire is for the on board balance charging... Which I wont use. I have a nice external charger I use. I dont care how safe they say they are, I dont like the idea of onboard charging three batteries in series.

 

[ShamrockPat]

Clear excellent 'How To'. Your mod looks sharp. In hindsight, would you have done anything differently?

 

[KenD]

At this point, desolder the wires from the 510. I cant show you this, as its already replaced... But if your following this far Im sure you can figure it out. In that last pic under the positive wire there is a small gold screw. On the front of the board there is another gold screw. remove both of these and you can slide the board out. THe factory 510 simply slides into two grooves in the underside of the top. I used a drill bit and carefully and slowly drilled the hole out so that the FDV fit in it. resolder the wires to teh ground ring and 510 pos terminal. again, sorry no pic of that...

Now you get to recess the batt tray to fit the new 510. I used a low profile one. here are the cuts I had to make...



In that last pic you can see the ground strap that was under the foam plug. when reinstalling the tray you may have to bend and tweak this a bit to get it to clear your 510. I was about 30 seconds from removing it and making a replacement out of wire... it was actually the hardest part of the fitting. it is hidden and hard to tell what its hitting on.

Once all this is done, assembly is pretty much just reversing everything you just did.

One other thing to notice, when the buttons come off the board with the front faceplate there are little white bumpers around them. These are not glued on. if they come off, no worries, they simply stick on with friction. just dont forget them when reassembling them.



There you go. you have now put a nice happy FDV 510 in your RX. Varitube woudl probably work just as well, but I find them harder to solder and they might be a touch longer and that could pose an issue. the 510 almost touches the connection of the 510 pos wire on the board. look back up at my pics and you can see it.

Also I wanted my 510 deck to stand proud fo the mod body so I didnt grind down the two curved ribs in the mod. if you want the deck even with the mod top you can use a dremel to grind them down. I left them so that larger mods such as my 30mm BFT woudnt scratch the mod when attaching and removing it.

Enjoy!!

Thanks! Great write up!

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[EverPresentNoob]

Clear excellent 'How To'. Your mod looks sharp. In hindsight, would you have done anything differently?

The only things I would have done differently would be to replace some of the internal wiring. as already stated the red and black wires from the board to the batt sled are thin as hell. I said I think they are for the balance charging which I wouldn't use, but If I was doing this one someone else's mod i would replace them with 24g silicone wire. Also I didn't shorten or replace the 510 wires. the way they come soldered to the board almost looks like cold solders. Nice round balls of solder. I would consider replacing them with decent silicone wire and doing that would give me better looking solders on them. Also the neg wire to the 510 was a little long... i had to heat the wire with a hot air gun to get the casing soft enough to bend it and tuck it under the edge of the board. If I were to have replaced it with silicone wire, I could have made it shorter. Solder the wire to the 510 neg tab, mount in the body, then solder to the board. it just would have made routing it a tad easier. It is completely hidden so wire clean up wouldn't really be affected, but every time I hold the mod now I know it could have been better. Eventually my OCD might get the better of me and Ill open it up and do just that. Unfortunately right now i only have 12G wire which would be to heavy to put in there. Same with the 510 pos. wire is way longer than needed. replacing would make it easier to route. Also the ball-o-solder ont eh board is a touch close to the bottom of the 510 pos. replacing and resoldering would give more clearance. it doesn't touch right now, and even if it did touch it really wouldn't matter, but it bugs my OCD. I know I could make it look better.

Underside of the body where the factory 510 slides in... I didnt remove the metal brackets it slid into. this makes my 510 nut seem to float away from the body. works fine, made it easier to tighten, but next time I would just grind them down with a dremel so they are smooth with the body. i couldnt find my dremel so i didnt. again, simply my OCD...

So mainly just a few little things that functionally dont really effect anything. All in all Im very happy with how this turned out. And now my MT tank actually work on it again! for some reason the stock 510 didnt like it and always gave me the error Atty Short. now with the FDV 510 that isnt an issue.