Replacing the 510 in an RX200... Fairly easy actually.

[suprtrkr]

Looking on the FDV site, they make a V4 "low profile, short" model 510 that is 12.5mm from from the top of the top cap to the plunger capture nut, versus 14mm on the regular model. This should increase clearance from the bottom of the 510 to the board edge. Looking at the photos of the installed 510, there's a good thread and a half left below the the jam nut (unless that is the short model, of course). And perhaps drilling and tapping the mod top m10 x 1 would obviate using the jam nut at all. And what do you guys think about placing a 1mm thick x 14mm ID o-ring under the 510, for those who want the connector to stand proud of the casing? That would be just the size to fit outside the two ridges in the atty well. Might seal the connector hole against those rassinfrackin' bottom air drippers that like to puke juice on you mod...

 

[EverPresentNoob]

Well, that IS the short model... you could tap the hole for the 510 to thread into, but the metal really isnt to think so there wouldnt be much thread there. hence me using the jam nut on it. and the idea about the Oring is actually a pretty good one. either that or epoxy, but then it kinda becomes permanaent.

 

[Mezzle993]

Irriplaceable 510 connector stops me buying mods, except this one . I have the same problem with the threads are you using the standard 14mm FDV? Im going into this on a dna 200 version so i will report back with any variations.

 

[EverPresentNoob]

I used a standard 22mm FDV V4.

 

[rhelton]

Nice thank you.

 

[KayP]

@EverPresentNoob Thank you for the comprehensive and easy to follow guide!

 

[Spunjah413]

So would the Low Profile version be a better option? I know you said you used the standard size, but id like a little wiggle room in there.

 

[EverPresentNoob]

go re-read post 22...

 

[Spunjah413]

go re-read post 22...

You literally said it IS the short one, then followed up with "I used the standard 22mm", which is not the short one. Looking for clarification not snarky replies.

 

[KayP]

LOL

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

 

[EverPresentNoob]

You literally said it IS the short one, then followed up with "I used the standard 22mm", which is not the short one. Looking for clarification not snarky replies.

Ah, I see your confusion... When I said standard 22mm, I was responding to someone that had asked me if I had used a 14mm 510. when building mods the "Standard" seems to be the 22mm 510's and that is what I was referring to.

 

[EverPresentNoob]

And I for one enjoy my snarky replies...

 

[Spunjah413]

And I for one enjoy my snarky replies...

Oh I'm all for snarky replies, when it's not directed at me, lol. Thanks for the info.

 

[EverPresentNoob]

Just so you all know, I just tried to fit a standard size v5 FDV in an RX. the bottom of the shaft thread hits the board. I could probably dremel away a little material on the shaft, but why should I when I know the LP and short model fits with out doing that. Or I may stick a washer under the 510 deck to make it stand proud like my other one does, but I was trying to sit it flush with the top of the mod.

 

[ShamrockPat]

... but I was trying to sit it flush with the top of the mod.

Thanks for blazing the trail for us Noob. How did you file down the top, like just a dremel, or a needle file? The more details the better. I've got some silicone wire on the way, and waiting for fatdaddy to come out with the colored 510's in a shorty

 

[EverPresentNoob]

I used a dremel with a cutting disc on it. and gently ground down the two rings molded into the body that are around the 510 connection.

 

[ShamrockPat]

No work needed on the underside? For this one will you just grind down the battery sled, or cut it again?

 

[EverPresentNoob]

This one I removed the factory grooved mounts for the stock 510 to slide into. I keep having issues with my 510 nut coming a little loose after removing attys a bunch. getting tired of taking it all apart each time to tighten it. Im also going to put a dab of epoxy on it to...

I used a dremel with a high speed steel cutting bit to grind away the material inside.

 

[EverPresentNoob]

And the latest...







This one has Orings under the deck... 1mm thick. one in the center tight around the 510 shaft, and a larger 22mm one that sits under the outer edge to keep any drips or errant juice from getting under it. Put a little locktite and epoxy over the nut on the underside to keep it from loosening. now its all boxed up and ready to go to its owner on Saturday.

oh and the 510 is centered... tat first pic its just the angle that makes it look off.

 

[Forge64]

Lo there, new here, been lurking, and I'm curious; you mentioned doing this for someone else, and I'm a little North of you, my RX200 is working great for now, but if I needed to do this, would you be interested, and roughly what would I be looking at for costs? I can solder a little, but your work looks really clean and pro, and that's something I value highly in high amperage devices that I use near my face.

Excellent work, and great pictures, btw. Thanks for that. I'll probably just use mine as-is until there are issues, but it's nice to see things redone better than new, and yours is a great guide if I end up trying it myself.