Replacing the 510 in an RX200... Fairly easy actually.

[Dave M]

Ever Present Noob, you have saved my RX-200 and now I also have a awesome FD 510 on mine as well. I went with a spacer on top, and ground out the slide the original 510 went in on, so I could Low Pro the interior. Final result, extremely little grinding on the battery sled, and did not make any holes in the sled at all........... Dude, you are a lifesaver. Thanks from the other side of the pond

 

[rice721]

nice write up.

My redblack RX's 510 is a bit stuck so some attys won't work, I doubt I'll ever attempt this but for those of you who are handy enough this post should help a ton.

 

[DP2Raja]

Anyone up for repairing my RX200...510, "Atomizer Low" problem? And how much would we be talking? PM me if interested. I am "solder challenged". Totally inept at that 'lectrical stuff. Don't tell ME it's not rocket science!!

 

[KayP]

It's not rocke.. oh okay..

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[cobalt327]

This is a fix that can be done by almost anyone. It is not as slick of a solution as replacing the too-short 510, by any means! But it will work if the problem is the length of the atty 510 center pin being too long, and soldering is not an option.

I had a couple attys that didn't want to sit flush on a VTC Mini unless I used a washer/spacer made from a plastic can lid (Kidney Puncher also sells these IIRC). But I wanted to get to the real reason for the atty not sitting right and found that- given the mod's limited 510 center pin travel- the atty's center pin was the culprit. It was simply too long.

First, I determined it was not related to the mod 510 threads- they are 'deep' enough. I used an old Kanger Protank base (w/o a coil head) to screw onto the mod and found it would thread on fully until it sat flush. Comparing the PT base to the atty base showed the PT threads to be actually a little longer than the atty's threads. This left the atty 510 pin being a little too long for the available travel of the mod's 510 pin.

Shortening the atty center pin can be done in several ways- a jewelers file, 220 wet/dry sandpaper , a dremel, etc. Followed by 400 or finer to smooth things out.

 

[DP2Raja]

Went ahead and ordered a Varitube 510 Connector Spring Loaded Self-Adjusting Center Pin 22mm to put in my non-firing RX200 ("Atomizer Low"). Figured I can do this if I am just patient and take my time. Thanks for the pics and instructions EPNoob!

 

[Dave M]

Anyone up for repairing my RX200...510, "Atomizer Low" problem? And how much would we be talking? PM me if interested. I am "solder challenged". Totally inept at that 'lectrical stuff. Don't tell ME it's not rocket science!!

If you lived closer, maybe ...................

 

[benley73]

hello could you plz send me a list of parts used on your latest version of this upgrade fat daddy 510 connection for a wismec rx200 an rx200s as I'm having this problem with 25mm RTA OBS crius isn't connecting short so is billow v3 plus RTA ,after using a 25 Griffin its pushed the pin down an nor coming back up I feel this would be the best method to fix this , could you plz send me a list of parts needed for this ,I would ask you to do it but I'm in the UK ,so the shipping Aline would cost too much , I need to find some one in UK ,I would like it to be raised to either by using a fatter top plate or not grinding away the top notches an placing a rubber seal under to stop drips from going through 510 , which version fat daddy did you use to not cut away much of the battery tray ,thanks any info would be such a great help ,to get my RX 200 working with my other RTA SAS I have both versions ,but problems with both with crappy 510 used so would like to change it ,thanks

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[benley73]

ie which fat daddy version is best for Rx 200 without having to cut a lot out of battery tray which is best version v4 short 22mm or a v5 version which is best fit ,

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[EverPresentNoob]

Use the version 4 low profile SHORT. on the battery tray if you have a dremel you can actually grind some plastic off with out making the hole all the way through.

 

[Completely Average]

Use the version 4 low profile SHORT. on the battery tray if you have a dremel you can actually grind some plastic off with out making the hole all the way through.

I also added a neoprene washer in the well area at the top of my mod. The 510 sits a little higher which gave the 510 better clearance above the board, and it seals the well so any spilled or leaked juice can't get under the 510 and inside the mod. Plus it adds a bit more friction which helps reduce any potential unscrewing of the 510 with a lot of atty changes.


One other tip.

I found that it's best to take some pliers and bend the metal grounding strap on the back of the battery sled so that it's mashed firmly against the sled. There's a little upwards bend which I crimped together and then bent the crimp over so it was as flat against the sled as I could get it. That kept the strap from moving around when I reinstalled the sled. I've converted three of these so far and the first one I spent probably a half hour jacking around with that stupid strap because it wanted to move every time I pressed the sled into the mod. Crimp it, mash it down, and it doesn't move at all. Saves a ton of time and hassle.

 

[benley73]

thank you for quick response , I will order two now from mod maker UK , an attempt this once it has arrived , thanks
Do I grind off the underneath also ,as you say it comes lose if not

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[benley73]

thank they look real good like manufactured with the day daddy ,50q adapters shame they didn't do this on the S model , I would of opted for you to replace it ,but I know the cost an shipping to USA from UK would probably be high , what would you charge for this just wondering , if you could pm me the price , thank you

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[benley73]

Fat Daddy Vapes 510 v4 Low Profile Connector - Short (22mm Cap)

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[benley73]

are these the correct ones ,

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[AtmizrOpin]

are these the correct ones ,

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yep

 

[benley73]

thank I've ordered them will lost back once I attempt to do this on one mod at a time , will need one to Vape with , just need to grab a cheap dremel to grind down properly , so some more online shopping I guess as will only need it to fix my two Rx mods , I have read other posts on other forums that say it's a lot better once done no more yank wobble or atomiser shorts ,so looking forward to doing this now

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[benley73]

it would be good if they sold the shells too like they do front back plates then you could do the work an just transfer it over from a built mod to the shell with fat daddy 510,

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[DaveP]

I usually try to wait a while for something past V1.0 when I buy a new mod. USPS is delivering my RX200S today. I'm hoping that I won't have this problem, but as a retired Tech Rep I'll be able to fix it from the info in this thread.

Thanks for posting the pictures of the process, everpresentnoob!

 

[benley73]

my rx200S has the bigger problem then the normal rx200 , I use RTA tanks Griffin 25ml ,ud bellus ,billow v3 plus an OBS crius plus , I used the Griffin a lot on my RX 200s an when I put in my billow v3 plus it kept coming up with atomisers short ,so had to undo the pin a little to connect but this loosens the bulid deck too, my OBS crius plus does not have an adjustable pin , so I cannot use it at all on my RX 200s ,mod this is why I need to replace the 510 pin with a fat daddy connection , which has just arrived today , I'm awaiting arrival of a dremel before I start working on it ,but rx200S still has a crappy pin , my RDA twisted messes also has a slightly larger 510 tread too , I got around this by using one of the screw on plates supposedly a heat dispersion plate , but this has a longer thread so I can still use my RTA on my mods, but it also pushes the pin further down as it's got a dam long thread on it then the adjustable pin, so it helps to use the mods with larger RTA,s but also makes the problem worse, so either way I need to change both of the 510 thread on both Rx 200 an 200s , as they kept the same crappy 510 thread.
The 200s 510 thread is worse than the others too me ,
I now need to find a 22mm silicone seal/ ring to go under the fat daddy 510 to stop juice going down into mod if I get leaks like the other posters have done. when I get around to changing it , maybe a silicone ring an glue or a nylon washer to go under it as I don't mind it slightly raised at all , As I'm using mainly 25mm RTA,s now
an when you have a silicone case on the rx200 an S mod the 25mm RTA needs to be raised a little to be able to adjust the bottom airflow, without the top of the case cover being in the way .
Which catches on the top ridge of silicone case cover ,
So slightly raised is better to me for me,this is what I will be aiming to do when I start working on changing it plus these fat daddy plates look an feel a lot better an have parts you can replace if the pin knackers up again so might order s few spares too ,it does look a lot better too ,

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