Good post Ruppy. The only thing I do different is remove the top screw and just leave the center post attached to the wire and slide it out.I am adding a picture tutorial for replacing the top cap
First you will see the following image again. I am starting with it to highlight its importance!
STEP 1
Your top cap
Loosen the top screw 1 turn
Step 2
Unscrewing the cap
Step 3
Opening it up
Carefully lift the cap after it is unthreaded. REMEMBER there is a wire attached.
Step 4
Removing the wire
HOLD the connector and remove the screw
Now swap caps and reverse the instructions to reassemble.
Replacing the top cap on the Buzz
- Thread starter BuzzKill
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Mike, as much as I love 5C, the credit for this pic tutorial goes to Ruppy 
Sure would love to see it moved to it's own stickie and locked so that it doesn't get lost!!
Sure would love to see it moved to it's own stickie and locked so that it doesn't get lost!!
Mike, as much as I love 5C, the credit for this pic tutorial goes to Ruppy
Sure would love to see it moved to it's own stickie and locked so that it doesn't get lost!!
Amen Bov!!!! That sticky alone could save lots of people (like me!) from breaking their PV's and having to send them in for surgeries at the Buzzpital. Could also save valuable "creating" time for Buzz not having to fix them. Sounds like a WIN to me!
Mike, as much as I love 5C, the credit for this pic tutorial goes to Ruppy
Sure would love to see it moved to it's own stickie and locked so that it doesn't get lost!!
Thanks Bov !,THANKS RUPPY !
copied to first post in thread
No problem Mike. I figured it would help people out.
5cards comment about removing the top screw all the way was a good one though. Depending on why someone is removing the cap would determine which route to go with. Biggest thing is to keep them from breaking the wire lol.
Just went back and revisited the pics. Just look at that Patina on that Brass Cap!, Musta vaped a lot of good juice through there, Ruppy! 
Are the slots crosswise in the threading to allow more airflow?
Are the slots crosswise in the threading to allow more airflow?
good point!Step 0, remove batteries
LOL yup alot of juice! Those are slots for 808Just went back and revisited the pics. Just look at that Patina on that Brass Cap!, Musta vaped a lot of good juice through there, Ruppy!
Are the slots crosswise in the threading to allow more airflow?
Yea i went to change the top cap on mine from 510 to 801 and broke the friggin wire.. I changed the top on my OG buzz a few times with no problem this one i took the screww all the way out and i still broke it.. LOL now im afraid to change it again.. LOL sure do like the fusions tho...hahaha
Sent it in and got it back within a couple days.. Awesome!
I just read this thread again. (AFTER breaking my wire! And vowing to never change it again... Unless I convert totally to 801. )
I just wanted to clarify. Does loosining or removing the top screw "free up" the underneath where the wire is connected so it can rotate? I don't think I touched the top screw the last time I changed it. Thus, may be the reason why I broke the wire.
)I just wanted to clarify. Does loosining or removing the top screw "free up" the underneath where the wire is connected so it can rotate? I don't think I touched the top screw the last time I changed it. Thus, may be the reason why I broke the wire.
Even after loosening or completely removing the top screw make sure that the inside bushing doesn't rotate along with the cap when turning. Some gunked up juice might cause the bushing (and thus the wire underneath) to spin with the cap.
Ah! Great tip kemp! If the bushing is moving with the turning cap, then its pulling the wire around as you turn. Yes? I guess if this happens you would fiddle with the bushing... Or try and hold it somehow while turning the cap?
If it was me, and I saw the bushing turning, I would probably just gently tap it down, clear it from the top cap, if Mike agrees. Batteries have of course been removed
When I got my 1st buzz, it came w/808 & 510 caps. I switched out the 510 to 808 and in the process I broke the wire. Not right away, but evidently I tightened everthing too tight. Needless to say it wasn't long before it was being sent in to the buzzpital.... I swore I would never
change another top cap!!
Well I ordered a 801 cap for my bpro and after reading this thread decided to try it again instead of sending it in to be replaced.. I am not a fan of adapters at all. Especially since I have enough pv's for a nice variety. What worked really well for me was just taking out the screw on top, which I also replaced w/a slotted one. It was easy peasy that way, with minimal messing w/itty bitty wire. It has been working like a champ ever since... I do have a fear of the bushing not turning (now that I know) so I do periodically check it.
The pics and all of the other helpful info has made it very easy, and non threatening to the pv's life for someone like me to change out the caps.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!!!!
Afterthought:
I am a lil scared to switch out my Ipro tho since it is different looking.. I know silly thinking, but it is what it is
change another top cap!!
Well I ordered a 801 cap for my bpro and after reading this thread decided to try it again instead of sending it in to be replaced.. I am not a fan of adapters at all. Especially since I have enough pv's for a nice variety. What worked really well for me was just taking out the screw on top, which I also replaced w/a slotted one. It was easy peasy that way, with minimal messing w/itty bitty wire. It has been working like a champ ever since... I do have a fear of the bushing not turning (now that I know) so I do periodically check it.
The pics and all of the other helpful info has made it very easy, and non threatening to the pv's life for someone like me to change out the caps.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!!!!
Afterthought:
I am a lil scared to switch out my Ipro tho since it is different looking.. I know silly thinking, but it is what it is
Last edited:
- Status
