Resistance-No Resistance wire welder

[breaktru]

I agree, the most important factor here is definitely getting a good connection and short lead on the resistance wire (nr can be longer). Good idea on the washers, I made up some different leads today using this type of flat jaw copper clip that I had in the treasure chest: View attachment 168671

I like your copper clip. I tried looking for them yesterday w/ no luck.
Also like the one that @TBinAZ posted from Fry's but couldn't find them on their site.

found this: http://goo.gl/VK4n2

edit:
found it at: http://proto-pic.co.uk/alligator-clips-toothless/

 

[TBinAZ]

I got 10 of them for like $2.95 or something like that at Radioshack. Picked up a small project box to fit it all in, but I'm getting really .... about how I want to lay it out. I'm like getting all F'ed up with logistics. I would really suck at making box mods. It would take me a month.

I like your copper clip. I tried looking for them yesterday w/ no luck.
Also like the one that @TBinAZ posted from Fry's but couldn't find them on their site.

found this: 4 wires test clip/ flat nose pliers plated with gold accurately measure low resistance,View test clip,VICI Product Details from Shenzhen Vicimeter Technology Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com

edit:
found it at: SparkFun Alligator Clips - Toothless (PRT-10290) | Proto-PIC.co.uk

 

[UA72Riddle]

So....I have to ask since I know nothing about this stuff. I'm a welder, and that's as far as my electronics knowledge goes....

If I find a good box at RadioShack, and want to put the led on the box....how should I remake the connection to the board if I have to take it off to relocate? Solder two jumper leads to the ports the led was soldered in? Should I just buy an extra led, and if so...any certain kind?

I'm not going to get too complicated with the build....though I may add an on/off switch (young curious children and an accident prone wife)...just in case. If I were to put an on/off switch...it would go between the + battery terminal and the board.....which also means I would have to remove the battery terminals from the board, correct? May just be easier to not get too deep in to it.

I can't read electrical schematics....might as well be Greek. I am just tring to make this as easy as possible....which I think will be leaving it in the camera case and just running wires to the outside of the box...lol Then I can either put plug ins for leads, or just solder clips straight to those wires coming from the capacitor.

 

[breaktru]

I got 10 of them for like $2.95 or something like that at Radioshack. Picked up a small project box to fit it all in, but I'm getting really .... about how I want to lay it out. I'm like getting all F'ed up with logistics. I would really suck at making box mods. It would take me a month.

This build would be a good starting point before getting into modding.

 

[breaktru]

So....I have to ask since I know nothing about this stuff. I'm a welder, and that's as far as my electronics knowledge goes....

If I find a good box at RadioShack, and want to put the led on the box....how should I remake the connection to the board if I have to take it off to relocate? Solder two jumper leads to the ports the led was soldered in? Should I just buy an extra led, and if so...any certain kind?

I'm not going to get too complicated with the build....though I may add an on/off switch (young curious children and an accident prone wife)...just in case. If I were to put an on/off switch...it would go between the + battery terminal and the board.....which also means I would have to remove the battery terminals from the board, correct? May just be easier to not get too deep in to it.

I can't read electrical schematics....might as well be Greek. I am just tring to make this as easy as possible....which I think will be leaving it in the camera case and just running wires to the outside of the box...lol Then I can either put plug ins for leads, or just solder clips straight to those wires coming from the capacitor.

You said make it simple, leave the LED on the board and just rely on a Meter attached to the leads.

Like you said, an on/off switch is a good idea. That's why I put one in. Anything can happen besides zapping someone. What if.... you throw the box to the side and the button gets pressed and the leads are arcing away at some paper or rag.

edit:
did you see the easy to follow schematic I put together? it's more like a diagram.

 

[bapgood]

Dang!!! I cant keep up with this thread....silly me thinking it would stop at a disposable camera

I just skimmed from where I left off....so sorry if my question has been asked.

I see breaktru's box uses a AA battery....could this be powered off a CPU power supply converted into a bench power supply? I know most CPU power supplies have 3.3v/5v/12v/etc. Not that a AA battery is hard to come by. Would the power supply offer any addition benefits?

And WTeFF everclear is available in Utah but not NY

 

[breaktru]

Dang!!! I cant keep up with this thread....silly me thinking it would stop at a disposable camera

I just skimmed from where I left off....so sorry if my question has been asked.

I see breaktru's box uses a AA battery....could this be powered off a CPU power supply converted into a bench power supply? I know most CPU power supplies have 3.3v/5v/12v/etc. Not that a AA battery is hard to come by. Would the power supply offer any addition benefits?

And WTeFF everclear is available in Utah but not NY

I would not go above 1.5V. damage to the flash circuit most likely will occur.
I went from an AAA to a AA battery.

 

[gsa]

The simplest place to put an on/off switch would be from the cap to the hot lead. The only down side to that is that it could still charge, just not go off unless it was turned on. The best place to put one is between the battery + and the camera board, but since the "battery holder" is just stamped copper soldered to the board it is a little more work. I hot glued my battery directly to the box because the copper was a little flimsy and I knew it wouldn't hold very well, my plan is to pick up a aa battery holder and put that inside the box at some point, then I can add the switch pretty easily. Until then, I store them with the + and - leads connected to each other.

 

[gsa]

I like your copper clip. I tried looking for them yesterday w/ no luck.
Also like the one that @TBinAZ posted from Fry's but couldn't find them on their site.

found this: 4 wires test clip/ flat nose pliers plated with gold accurately measure low resistance,View test clip,VICI Product Details from Shenzhen Vicimeter Technology Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com

.

edit:
found it at: SparkFun Alligator Clips - Toothless (PRT-10290) | Proto-PIC.co.uk

Mine came from rat shack too, I stole the insulated rubbers off some cheap rat shack alligator clips too so I ended up with a insulated copper flat jaw that is pretty ideal for what we are doing

 

[breaktru]

And WTeFF everclear is available in Utah but not NY

It's not just the everclear it's the PROOF.
It is illegal to sell the 190-proof variety in some states of the United States:

California
Hawaii
Maine
Massachusetts
Minnesota
Nevada
New York
New Hampshire
Ohio
Pennsylvania
Virginia
Washington
West Virginia

In some of these states, the 151-proof variety may be sold.

 

[dsy5]

It's really super easy. Plus the electronics are pretty much free, so you can buy a dedicated dmm for this and still be way under the $100 Greek one.

If you could fit the DMM in the box it would be cool - and add a discharge button to it.

BTW do all drug stores have these spent disposables lying about - I mean, do they just remove the film from these things and send it off to the deveoper, or must the drug store process the film themselves? Never used a disposable before - I just thought they sent the whole camera off to the developer.

 

[bapgood]

It's not just the everclear it's the PROOF.
It is illegal to sell the 190-proof variety in some states of the United States:

California
Hawaii
Maine
Massachusetts
Minnesota
Nevada
New York
New Hampshire
Ohio
Pennsylvania
Virginia
Washington
West Virginia

In some of these states, the 151-proof variety may be sold.

I'm still surprised Utah is not on that list. I did get some in Nevada over Christmas that was 151....and was confused as I remember it being 190

 

[dsy5]

Mine came from rat shack too, I stole the insulated rubbers off some cheap rat shack alligator clips too so I ended up with a insulated copper flat jaw that is pretty ideal for what we are doing

The gold plateing would probably melt off... Gold is pretty soft and extremely heat sensitive. I've also had the wire partially weld to the alligator clips on a loose grip.

 

[mre777]

If you could fit the DMM in the box it would be cool - and add a discharge button to it.

BTW do all drug stores have these spent disposables lying about - I mean, do they just remove the film from these things and send it off to the deveoper, or must the drug store process the film themselves? Never used a disposable before - I just thought they sent the whole camera off to the developer.

Yes I used to work at a Walgreens and the photo people just take the film for out developing. They have a bin to put the husks in for recycling. I used to take them home all the time to play with and I'm sure they will give you a few if you ask nice.

 

[breaktru]

The gold plateing would probably melt off... Gold is pretty soft and extremely heat sensitive. I've also had the wire partially weld to the alligator clips on a loose grip.

yes it will. make sure the clip is tight on the wire or it will weld or pit it

 

[Bfly]

Best thread in a long time.

 

[gsa]

The gold plateing would probably melt off... Gold is pretty soft and extremely heat sensitive. I've also had the wire partially weld to the alligator clips on a loose grip.

copper

RadioShack Micro 1-1/8 Smooth Clips : Clips | RadioShack.com

 

[breaktru]

copper

RadioShack Micro 1-1/8 Smooth Clips : Clips | RadioShack.com

Nice gsa, good find. I ordered some earlier from Fry's

 

[UA72Riddle]

The simplest place to put an on/off switch would be from the cap to the hot lead. The only down side to that is that it could still charge, just not go off unless it was turned on. The best place to put one is between the battery + and the camera board, but since the "battery holder" is just stamped copper soldered to the board it is a little more work. I hot glued my battery directly to the box because the copper was a little flimsy and I knew it wouldn't hold very well, my plan is to pick up a aa battery holder and put that inside the box at some point, then I can add the switch pretty easily. Until then, I store them with the + and - leads connected to each other.

Thanks gsa! That's exactly what I was looking for. I still haven't gone to get a camera yet, or the other supplies.....but that is top of my list for tomorrow! I should have this p and running by tomorrow afternoon!

 

[TBinAZ]

Yep, those are them. 10 for about $3. I was actually kind of chuckling about their "DIY" area. Kind of weak, but you can find what you need.

copper

RadioShack Micro 1-1/8 Smooth Clips : Clips | RadioShack.com