Resistorless 5v Prodigy V2 - Final Specs - Loaded Voltage Video
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I think he still needs to have his big Saint Bernard lick all the tubes as a final polish before pictures or shipping.
soooooooo not going there
thanks so much for putting up the videos,it makes you wonder way other companys resist showing the voltage output of there units,,just makes you wonder,thanks puresmoker
oh forget ,i would like to wish everyone a safe and happy and healthy new year
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In all honesty, if you fully charge Tenergy LiFePO4 750mAh 3.0V batteries, they test out to 3.6V each with a digital multimeter, and the pair tests out at a total of 7.2V. This is just a simple voltage test with the batteries laying on the table in front of you. When I place these same batteries inside the Prodigy V2 and then test the voltage at the point where the atomizer connects (in my case to a 510 adapter), and press the button to power the pv, I get the EXACT same voltage of 7.2V as I did when the batteries were outside the unit. This proves that the unit provides no sort of drop in voltage when you put freshly charged batteries in and press the button and test the voltage. So, the only way that your meter showed a voltage lower than 7.2V is if the batteries were fairly well discharged. To the point of having only 6.5V total, rather than the fully charged voltage of 7.2V. At about 6.0V total these batteries need charged. So, that was my concern.
For the sake of comparison, I did the same test with the same batteries in my Silver Bullet and achieved the exact same results. So, any device using these batteries, that are tested in the saem way, will result in the same unloaded voltage of 7.2V and once any atomizer is attached, and then tested under load, the voltage would drop based on the resistance of the atomizer.
From the lowest to the highest amount of voltage drop provided by an atomizer, the least amount comes from a 510, then a 901, then an 801. This is why 801's may taste better to some, as they are closer to the 5V range most people are seeking. But, in all cases, none of these atomizers with the batteries mentioned above, will even come close to 5V with freshly charged batteries and for many hours into the batteries charge, as the battereis hold a high charge for a lengthy period.
In order to achieve a number closer to 5V one must either add some sort of true resistance in the battery mod, which I find using an actual resistor, for exmaple, a failing concept due to its fragility. The other method is to use an atomizer with a higher resistance, which for some reason none of the actual manufacturers of the atomizers we have all came to love and use are willing to admit to making such an HV atomizer. Somebody, somewhere, is modifying the atomizers in such a was as to provide more resistance. I plan to order a 4.5ohm HV atomizer and test it with my multimeter and see what it really tests out at and if it is really roughly 4.5ohm. If so, it will get me closer to that sweet spot during the batteries discharging cycle, as it will provide the proper amount of watts for those using 2 - 3V batteries.
I love the Prodigy V2. The tube is amazing, the feel, the weight, the construction, Grimms logo, etc. I absolutely love it. And, if you discharge a battery far enough we can call it a 5V device, maybe even a 4V device, but it mainly lies in the 6V range as far as actual testing shows.
I am not here to ruin the name for any product. I am here to inform others and help them find a device which actually produces the results they are looking for without doing the testing themselves. I don't mind the Prodigy V2 at 6V at all. I will try the 4.5ohm atomizer because I do want to find a way to get closer to 5V, for me personally.
Any thoughts on this Steve? Just curious because I know my multimeter isn't lying and anyone can do this test, very easily themselves. Shouldn't the device be putting out a lower voltage at the atomizer connection if the device truly has some sort of internal resisitance, regardless of what is being used to create it? If not, please explain.
Thank you for your help.
For the sake of comparison, I did the same test with the same batteries in my Silver Bullet and achieved the exact same results. So, any device using these batteries, that are tested in the saem way, will result in the same unloaded voltage of 7.2V and once any atomizer is attached, and then tested under load, the voltage would drop based on the resistance of the atomizer.
From the lowest to the highest amount of voltage drop provided by an atomizer, the least amount comes from a 510, then a 901, then an 801. This is why 801's may taste better to some, as they are closer to the 5V range most people are seeking. But, in all cases, none of these atomizers with the batteries mentioned above, will even come close to 5V with freshly charged batteries and for many hours into the batteries charge, as the battereis hold a high charge for a lengthy period.
In order to achieve a number closer to 5V one must either add some sort of true resistance in the battery mod, which I find using an actual resistor, for exmaple, a failing concept due to its fragility. The other method is to use an atomizer with a higher resistance, which for some reason none of the actual manufacturers of the atomizers we have all came to love and use are willing to admit to making such an HV atomizer. Somebody, somewhere, is modifying the atomizers in such a was as to provide more resistance. I plan to order a 4.5ohm HV atomizer and test it with my multimeter and see what it really tests out at and if it is really roughly 4.5ohm. If so, it will get me closer to that sweet spot during the batteries discharging cycle, as it will provide the proper amount of watts for those using 2 - 3V batteries.
I love the Prodigy V2. The tube is amazing, the feel, the weight, the construction, Grimms logo, etc. I absolutely love it. And, if you discharge a battery far enough we can call it a 5V device, maybe even a 4V device, but it mainly lies in the 6V range as far as actual testing shows.
I am not here to ruin the name for any product. I am here to inform others and help them find a device which actually produces the results they are looking for without doing the testing themselves. I don't mind the Prodigy V2 at 6V at all. I will try the 4.5ohm atomizer because I do want to find a way to get closer to 5V, for me personally.
Any thoughts on this Steve? Just curious because I know my multimeter isn't lying and anyone can do this test, very easily themselves. Shouldn't the device be putting out a lower voltage at the atomizer connection if the device truly has some sort of internal resisitance, regardless of what is being used to create it? If not, please explain.
Thank you for your help.
I have questioned this also.
I have ordered one , havent got it yet.
If it burns my juice I will sell it or return it. If that is an option.
But I am hopeful It will work as advertised and I will use it.
Any expert clarification on this? Multi meters dont lie. Or do they\?
Jason
I have ordered one , havent got it yet.
If it burns my juice I will sell it or return it. If that is an option.
But I am hopeful It will work as advertised and I will use it.
Any expert clarification on this? Multi meters dont lie. Or do they\?
Jason
Interesting. I just checked mine and you are correct. So are we to assume the disk does absolutely nothing and we actually have a 6/7.2v device?
I've read several post where people are burning up standard 510 atomizers with their V2and this would explain why. They are assuming this is a 5 volt device and uses standard atty's when in fact they should be using hv atty's. Am I correct in assuming this?
My brain turns to mush when you guys start talkin amps .. mahs .. yada, yada .... but here .. maybe this will help a bit ? there's a video in there too .........
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-device-under-load-prodigy-other-devices.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-device-under-load-prodigy-other-devices.html
Good thing I didn't have a 510 adapter for my v2.. I'd have been stomping attys long ago.
harpo, thank you for confirming what I'm saying. It seems pretty straight forward from our tests. If the Prodigy V2 provides any internal resistance of its own, through whatever mechanism, the test would show a drop in voltage when the batteries are tested inside the unit versus outside the unit. Its that simple. And yet, the test shows no change at all. Any further testing at this point is pointless at best, or at least meaningless, because the batteries were clearly partially discharged or the device Steve was testing has something inside of it that mine does not.
We won't know for sure from the video though, because he did not test the battery voltage, for us, before placing them inside the unit. However, our tests would suggest the tested voltage outisde the unit would have been the same as inside.
Put another way, if I had a unit and it had internal resistance which would truly drop the voltage of the batteries, to a number, that when coupled with a standard atomizer, would put you in the 5V range, I would want to prove it, and clearly show this to potential buyers. I would use fully charged batteries (because this is what most people actually use), and show the voltage drop by testing the batteries outside the device, then place the fully charged batteries inside the device, and while pressing the button test the batteries again. This would have to show a drop in voltage if my device had something inside of it creating resistance.
This test was critical to me, because you do not need to go any further if you're wandering what voltage the device truly is. As with all devices, if the tested voltage of the batteries matches both inside and outside the device, the device provides no resistance. What it does under load is not important, because you are not going to take 7.2V down to 5V with a standard atomizer, ever. It may be achieveable, as Jason suggests, with a high voltage atomizer, but we are buying devices which claim to put out a number lower than 7.2V, which would need to be near the 5.5V-6V range, so that when coupled with a standard atomizer, results in the 5V range.
Understand, I love the Prodigy V2, its design and feel are really nice. I think it is a worthy purchase. But, I don't see a difference in voltage over the Silver Bullet, and I did expect to.
We won't know for sure from the video though, because he did not test the battery voltage, for us, before placing them inside the unit. However, our tests would suggest the tested voltage outisde the unit would have been the same as inside.
Put another way, if I had a unit and it had internal resistance which would truly drop the voltage of the batteries, to a number, that when coupled with a standard atomizer, would put you in the 5V range, I would want to prove it, and clearly show this to potential buyers. I would use fully charged batteries (because this is what most people actually use), and show the voltage drop by testing the batteries outside the device, then place the fully charged batteries inside the device, and while pressing the button test the batteries again. This would have to show a drop in voltage if my device had something inside of it creating resistance.
This test was critical to me, because you do not need to go any further if you're wandering what voltage the device truly is. As with all devices, if the tested voltage of the batteries matches both inside and outside the device, the device provides no resistance. What it does under load is not important, because you are not going to take 7.2V down to 5V with a standard atomizer, ever. It may be achieveable, as Jason suggests, with a high voltage atomizer, but we are buying devices which claim to put out a number lower than 7.2V, which would need to be near the 5.5V-6V range, so that when coupled with a standard atomizer, results in the 5V range.
Understand, I love the Prodigy V2, its design and feel are really nice. I think it is a worthy purchase. But, I don't see a difference in voltage over the Silver Bullet, and I did expect to.
I'm not even going to pretend to try to explain any of this, and I do see what you're saying and agree with you. After reading your post, I started wondering if that might explain why I "think" I feel such a difference between the V1 (resistored) and the V2, so I decided to test my own. I'll admit that I have a cheapo meter and also that I have a ton of trouble holding everything and pushing the button, etc., but what I found was odd. I'm sure someone can explain it (or maybe I have a bad meter). I first tested the freshly charged batteries and got 3.87 each. I then tested the V2 and got 6.70. Okay, fine, we're down by 1. Then I got 6.68 on the V1 with the resistored switch, BUT THEN I got 6.71 on the V1 with the unresistored switch. At that point, I started wondering if something was wrong with me or the meter, so I then tested the batteries I had been using for several hours. Results: Batteries - 3.19 & 3.22; V1 without resistor - 6.4; V2 - 6.38. I didn't test the V1 with the resistor at this point, because I was too lazy to change the switch out again. I actually wish I had thought of it before swapping the switches. I can't really say what, if anything, it all means, but I find it interesting. It also makes me wonder why I "thought" I noticed a big difference between the V1 resistored and the V2.
Just wondering if ur testing w atty attached, its my understanding that it can only be tested w atty to see the voltage drop, but I dont own a meter so cant help w that part....
St's point is just that if there is internal resistance in the unit it should show a drop by going through the unit (with or without the atty attached), and from my understanding, stgard didn't use an atty (and neither did I). I realize this isn't what Steve was doing at all (which would account for the atty).
I understand, but when testing fully loaded, i thought the atty had to be attached bc it knocks a volt down.....It also has resistance to my understanding...Do u have a meter? If so maybe u could check that out? Im wondering too but have no meter 
Yes, an atty attached would drop the voltage some because of its resistance, but the point is we need not go that far to tell if the device itself has an internal resistance of its own. If its a 5V device we should see numbers coming out of the place we connect an atty to (with the button pressed), at a lower voltage than the batteries would test outside the unit. But, instead there is no difference at all, not even .1V. The batteries test to the same voltage inside or outside of the Prodigy V2 and, in my testing, the Silver Bullet. I hope that makes sense.
Even with an atty attached, you will never get a regular atty to drop the voltage 2 volts. So, if the batteries are testing 7.2V outside the unit and also at 7.2V coming out of the unit, then we could not be near 5V with a standard atty attached (801, 901, or 510). More like 6.5V+. Once the batteries begin to drop voltage with use, the overall total would be lower, but not be near 5V.
Put another way, if this device is considered a 5V device, we must call all devices using 2 x 3V batteries a 5V device, because the units themselves are not providing any resistance at all, as the tests show. It is all up to the atty rather than the device we are buying hoping to get 5V. Surely, there are some devices which have resistors inside of them (inside the battery tube or on the switch itself) to drop the voltage to a lower number so that when an atty is attached it would be near 5V. But, the Prodigy V2 has no such resistor and if the special materials used inside are providing resistance then why don't the raw voltage coming out reflect that? If it don't, the only thing providing any resistance and therefore lower voltage, is the atty, not the device. We can put the right atty on any device pumping out 6V+. I will be trying the 4.5ohm 510, which will cool things down a bit at 6V and may be perfect for me.
I cannot say it enough though that I love the prodigy V2 & I recommend buying it, but if we are trying to go from the 6V of a device, such as the Silver Bullet, to a 5V device, this would not be accomplished here. You would need a higher resistance (aka High Voltage or HV) atty to achieve it. I just want to make sure people are getting what they think they are buying.
The Prodigy V2 is said to run at a certain "loaded voltage" on their website, but if I drain the batteries to just the right level & then attach an atty, I could achieve any number from about 4.5 to 6.75 & make such a statement. I think we need to compare fully charged batteries outwide the unit, to fully charged batteries inside the unit with the button pressed. We should also get to testing with the load of an atty, but as Steve has shown you have to create a special contraption to achieve this. He did so for an 801 & it works great as far as I could tell. But, I think if he were to use fully charged batteries & run the test again, we would see numbers near 5.85V & above.
I guess it comes down to one of two things. Either the unit I have is defective and needs replaced, which I highly doubt, as I have two and both test identically or we need to rethink how we define and therefore, measure, a 5V device.
Thanks for everyone's input. I'm only trying to understand this whole thing better right along with everyone else. I'm not meaning to point any fingers, but I fully intend to prompt the attention of using legitimate numbers when people sell these devices.
Even with an atty attached, you will never get a regular atty to drop the voltage 2 volts. So, if the batteries are testing 7.2V outside the unit and also at 7.2V coming out of the unit, then we could not be near 5V with a standard atty attached (801, 901, or 510). More like 6.5V+. Once the batteries begin to drop voltage with use, the overall total would be lower, but not be near 5V.
Put another way, if this device is considered a 5V device, we must call all devices using 2 x 3V batteries a 5V device, because the units themselves are not providing any resistance at all, as the tests show. It is all up to the atty rather than the device we are buying hoping to get 5V. Surely, there are some devices which have resistors inside of them (inside the battery tube or on the switch itself) to drop the voltage to a lower number so that when an atty is attached it would be near 5V. But, the Prodigy V2 has no such resistor and if the special materials used inside are providing resistance then why don't the raw voltage coming out reflect that? If it don't, the only thing providing any resistance and therefore lower voltage, is the atty, not the device. We can put the right atty on any device pumping out 6V+. I will be trying the 4.5ohm 510, which will cool things down a bit at 6V and may be perfect for me.
I cannot say it enough though that I love the prodigy V2 & I recommend buying it, but if we are trying to go from the 6V of a device, such as the Silver Bullet, to a 5V device, this would not be accomplished here. You would need a higher resistance (aka High Voltage or HV) atty to achieve it. I just want to make sure people are getting what they think they are buying.
The Prodigy V2 is said to run at a certain "loaded voltage" on their website, but if I drain the batteries to just the right level & then attach an atty, I could achieve any number from about 4.5 to 6.75 & make such a statement. I think we need to compare fully charged batteries outwide the unit, to fully charged batteries inside the unit with the button pressed. We should also get to testing with the load of an atty, but as Steve has shown you have to create a special contraption to achieve this. He did so for an 801 & it works great as far as I could tell. But, I think if he were to use fully charged batteries & run the test again, we would see numbers near 5.85V & above.
I guess it comes down to one of two things. Either the unit I have is defective and needs replaced, which I highly doubt, as I have two and both test identically or we need to rethink how we define and therefore, measure, a 5V device.
Thanks for everyone's input. I'm only trying to understand this whole thing better right along with everyone else. I'm not meaning to point any fingers, but I fully intend to prompt the attention of using legitimate numbers when people sell these devices.
Sorry for the long post, but just to be clear, Steve's numbers will show a much lower voltage when the atty is attached. But, the raw numbers he showed testing the unit without the atty is where I have concern. My batteries are identical to his and when Ii run the same test, I get 7.2V on digital multimeter. If the starting voltage is lower, due to lower battery charge, for example, then the overall "loaded" voltage test will clearly show a lower voltage. If the raw test showed the 7.2V, as I believe it should, then we could deduct roughly the difference in his two tests, 6.5V raw - 5.15V loaded, and see a difference of 1.35V. So, 1.35V off of 7.2V = 5.85V. But, that is with a 801 atty which has the hihest reisstance of all the standard attys. I use a 510, so my numbers under load would exceed 6V. If 4.5ohm HV atty's are said to take 1 volt off and 5.2ohm are said to take 2 volts off the main voltage, then what does a 2.5-3.5 do? I'm not sure to be exact, but surely it would be well under 1V, yet we do see Steve's 801 dropping it 1.35V, so something is happening. But, I do not know how much voltage the 801 takes off as I do not see any HV version of it, it may be near 4ohm to begin with and would drop a volt or so off the main. Again though, we are talking about something we can do to any device using 2 x 3V batteries. We are banking on a lower voltage form the atty, not the unit.
After thinking this through here is what I have decided. What Steve did was a test of the 801's ability to resist voltage, not the Prodigy V2's ability to resist voltage. Testing batteries outside the unit and then inside the unit would show the resistance of his device. Testing the batteries inside the unit and then through the atty, only shows what the atty can do. I mean seriously, if you wanted to show that your device can resist voltage wouldn't you show the voltage of batteries outside the unit and then show the voltage inside the unit, to show a drop? Makes sense to me.
Sorry for any typos in my posts, I have a 7 year old who loves to get loud when I type. lol.
After thinking this through here is what I have decided. What Steve did was a test of the 801's ability to resist voltage, not the Prodigy V2's ability to resist voltage. Testing batteries outside the unit and then inside the unit would show the resistance of his device. Testing the batteries inside the unit and then through the atty, only shows what the atty can do. I mean seriously, if you wanted to show that your device can resist voltage wouldn't you show the voltage of batteries outside the unit and then show the voltage inside the unit, to show a drop? Makes sense to me.
Sorry for any typos in my posts, I have a 7 year old who loves to get loud when I type. lol.
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