Resistorless 5v Prodigy V2 - Final Specs - Loaded Voltage Video

[stgardner]

Also, could it be that once the atty is attached, it not only provides its own voltage drop, but because it completes a circuit, it then allows the internal components of the V2 to sort of "kick in" and drop the voltage further? I have no idea. It could very well be. I have no knowledge to rule it in or out. Maybe this is where crash has concerns and it may well be true. And, Steve might chime in and say this. I offer this idea in all fairness to Steve and his incredible mod. I am simply trying to understand these things. If what I suggest is possible then the Silver Bullet may show a higher voltage in the end than the V2, because it lacks the same types of materials, components, etc., internally that the V2 has at its disposal once the circuit is complete. I do have a college education and some graduate level work, but not in electronics. So, help me out here.

 

[crashtestjeep]

Thanks for explaining, i totally get ur point now

Im interested in what Steve says as well - but no matter what does what and why, I must say I LOVE MY V2!!!

I have an Xhaler as well and find that both the Xhaler and the V2 both vape noticeably smoother than my mods at 6v so Im happy either way

Im still learning about all this meter reading and planning on getting my own meter soon for help when making my own mods.

Again, thanks for explaining!

 

[stgardner]

By the way, thank you all for your input so far. It sure is nice knowing I am not alone in understanding this and its nice to know I can get involved in a worthy discussion to help others and myself understand the technologies we are using. I have been a lurker for many months and needed to jump in at this point. Your responses have made me feel very welcome and I truly appreciate it. Steve and Casey from Puresmoker are truly great people from what I have experienced so far. They have really gone the extra mile to get the orders filled and I thank them for that. I'm just looking for a better understanding of their device that's all. I really am diggin' this V2. It feels so nice in my hands and I love it. I'm using a 510 adapter with 510 atty and a T-Tip. I love it so much. No, I haven't been drinking. The V2 is just that good!

 

[crashtestjeep]

hAHA, glad ur finally chiming in Im usinng the ttip too.....makes it a whole nother experience, I didnt really "get" dripping down to a "t" (no pun intended ) until I got the ttip but yeah......glad to have ya aboard and glad I could be a help!

 

[rfw2003]

o.k. to explain the way it works for the resistance to drop the voltage with the V1 and the V2 with out the typical resistor but the special resistance contact disc itself this is how it works.

Your meter itself does not provide a load so no you will not see a drop in voltage at the adapter itself, that is why you need to have an atty attached to it to complete the circuit.

For dropping the loaded voltage in either version of the prodigy it relies on the resistance of the atty itself and the resistor in case of the V1 or the resistance of the contact disc in the case of the V2.
These 2 resistances combined together is what brings the loaded voltage down to the approx. of 5volts that Steve shows in the video. Yes he is testing with the Avg voltage of the Batteries closer to the advertised voltage of the batteries, but he also states on the site I believe that under load the voltage will be between 4.85 to 5.25 volts.

The reason alot seem to be burning up their atty is a few reasons, one of which is poor quality control from the china suppliers, another is the fact that you must keep them wet when running them at a true 5v, for instance with a 510 I only get around 4 to 6 puffs at most for every 4 drops of juice. and about the same with my BE112's

I'm still on the first Atty that came with my V2 and I was in the first batch sent out on the first run.

I hope this clears up the issue for ya'll

 

[stgardner]

rfw... I figured it may come down to what happens when the circuit is actually complete. So the reason my V2 seems to run hotter than the 5.15V he showed in his video is mainly because of two things: 1) I was using fully charged batteries at 7.2V vs. his batteries which reflected more of an average voltage of around 6.5V & 2) I'm running the 510 atty vs. his 801 atty, which the 510 has less resistance and therefore runs hotter. So, if I add the .7V difference in the charge state of the batteries, my readings under load (if I had the special connection to measure it) would be 5.85V on fully charged batteries, plus the difference in the resistance of the atty? Of course, this higher number I describe for my setup would not last long as the initial fully charged battery voltage would drop off fairly quickly. Seems logical. I appreciate your explanation. I wished it was easier to test the loaded voltage because clearly this is what must be done to more accurately compare devices.

 

[funkybozu]

Test at the tail cap
just unscrew and place one end on the end of the baterry
and the one end on the body of the V2
if you attch an atty and fire it up you should get a underload reading
just take the atty off and do it again to see the diiference

 

[stgardner]

funkybozu, if the battery end on the tail cap side and the body itself are both negative, what would we be testing with the method you mentioned? I would think you would need to test by using a separate wire with connectors, such as the one Steve used in his video, so that you can test the positive side of the circuit.

In generic form, to do this, you could use a wire and run it from the positive post where the atomizer would normally connect on the body side, to the positive post on the actual atomizer, leaving several inches of wire in between, then bare some wire about midway along the wire, connect the multimeter's ground lead to the body and the positive lead to the area we bared the wire at, press the button, and measure the voltage flowing. Compare the results of this test to a simple test of the batteries laying on the table outside the unit. The difference is the total voltage dropped under the load of the atomizer and any resistance provided for inside the battery tube.

 

[stgardner]

I didn't explain the negative side correctly. The negative side of this test could be rigged with its own bared wire, as is done on the positive side, but I would run the negative from the body to the atty (not bared) and then use the body for the multimeter's negative lead to touch. In any case, the point is that we would need a nagative connection (via a wire) going from the body to the atty.

 

[funkybozu]

You should be able to test the current flow and the voltage
by touching the positive of the mutimeter to the negative of the battery
and the negative to the body of the V2
you create a cuircuit that's broken untill you fire the pv up
now that I think of it you can't do this unless you have a atty
attached

What Steve did in the video is make the attys threads longer so him could
test the Vs
it's the same princepal but done at the tailcap

 

[CaSHMeRe]

funky ... Just tried your idea = No go ?

The end cap ground the batteries to the rest of the Prodigy Body - You break that connection = unit won't work.

 

[stgardner]

You know what I'm thinking? I think I'm just going to skip past the whole worrying about what the loaded voltage is with my 510 for now and just enjoy the great vapor this incredible device is putting out. My luck I will end up blowing up a battery or frying some atty's playing around. It really is a very nice PV and I just need to enjoy it for a while. Thank you Steve for chiming in here. I hope I have stayed within the context of your post with my concerns. Thanks everyone for your thoughts, findings, and help. Everyone, please be careful if you run your own tests. I would hate to think I may have lit the candle that causes someone to toast their device trying to figure this out with me. The concerns I had about the true voltage seem to be explained by the testing of a loaded circuit over what I was doing. Hey, I never said I was an electrician. I just tried throwing in some common sense, but without the body of knowledge needed to clearly understand it all, I just need to let it go. Maybe sometime Steve, you can do a test with a 510 atty and maybe a 901 atty, for those who love their 901's. I would appreciate it and it seems others would benefit from this also. It's no big deal though. I'm pleased with my Prodigy V2.

 

[rfw2003]

Well for those that are wanting the easy way to make a test adapter to test voltage under load and also the ability to test current under load with a clamp meter you can buy a 510 battery connect and a M401 battery connector. The M401 batter connector is the same as the 510 atty end and you would wire it to the 510 battery connector and bare 2 small test point in your wires between the 2. I would use 20awg stranded wire between the connectors so you have no issues with any current or voltage loss there.

R.F.

 

[bearscreek]

Funky, I touched one probe to the bottom of the battery and the other to the V2 body with an atty attached (like you first suggested, I think) and got basically the same reading as I got from the batteries alone.

What I'm really having trouble understanding is why I got the same reading on the V1 going through the resistored switch as I did by going through the unresistored switch. The voltage going from the batteries supposedly goes through the resistor to get to the atty connection whether there's an atty attached or not, and nothing changed (with my cheap meter and unsteady hands).

 

[stgardner]

bear, from what I have learned here, until you have an actual load on the circuit, all you are doing is testing the starting voltage of the batteries, whether they are inside or outside the battery tube, so you will see no change. The fact you press a button to check the voltage only completes the connection to the atty connector, but does not reflect what happens to the voltage once a load, such as a connected atty, is placed in the circuit. A resistant material has nothing to resist until the volts are flowing, in other words. That's my take on it anyway.

 

[funkybozu]

Funky, I touched one probe to the bottom of the battery and the other to the V2 body with an atty attached (like you first suggested, I think) and got basically the same reading as I got from the batteries alone.

What I'm really having trouble understanding is why I got the same reading on the V1 going through the resistored switch as I did by going through the unresistored switch. The voltage going from the batteries supposedly goes through the resistor to get to the atty connection whether there's an atty attached or not, and nothing changed (with my cheap meter and unsteady hands).

That's wierd lol
what happens when you test the V1 at the atty connector
with out the atty? If I remember from the one I have
I tested about 5.8 on fresh batts
I never tried it under load but I suppose that with a normal
510 your gonna get around 5Vs

that's why you don't get the same feel from the V1 to the V2
sinse on avarage you will be gaping at a more or less 5v
but with the V2 you start at 7.4 and underload you go
from 6.something to 5.8-5
that's just a guess till I can get home and test
but it seems to be what I feel in the difference in power
from a 510 atty

 

[funkybozu]

Hum looking at cashs post he test his in a 801
I should have one spare to test as well see the difference


Hum2 that's an other way you can tell that the V2 isn't a 6V PV
801s die at an incredible rate at those Vs
the longest I managed to keep one alive was 1 week


I have also tried HV901s on my V2 the ohm was 4.2
and it behaved like a fully charged 3.7V(4.2)PV the hole time
I'm thinking that the higher resistance in
the atty Limits the Amps going out from the batts
wicth in turn lowers the loaded voltaged
that would account for why the batteries lasted
noticinly longer, since the discharge rate was lower

this limiting effect would also explain why my V2 runs longer than
my V1

 

[funkybozu]

Please excuse the piggish writing ,I'm not very good to begin with and
my iPhone isn't helping lol

anyway let me try to explain this theory a little better
a PV is very similar to a flash light
in fact the only differance is that the lghts LED is producing
light as well as heat were as the coil of an atty is just doing
heat
most chips in FLights have various settings
high/mid/low etcs
they achieve that by limiting the current going to the LED
let's say you have a 1amp bulb , if you run it at 1amp
your going to get 100% light
if you drop the amps to 500mA your going to get 50%
light and so on,
same holds true for battery life
let's say you have a 1000mAh capacity battery if
you run it at 1A you will get one hour of life out of it
if you run it at 500mA then you will get 2hours

the V2 has a internal resistance created but the new switch coupled
with the resistance of the atty, this should lower the amps being pulled from
the battery witch in turn will lower the heat produced by the
coil

voltage isn't a very good mesure to see the differance
produced by one PV to an other, but but amps being
pulled from the PV will give you a general idea of how
a certain PV will give you with a given atty and battery type

 

[BOGDOGMAX]

There shouldn't be such mystery about this. Here is my "take" on the whole voltage issue.

If you have 6.0 volt potential across the batteries - you will have the same across an open circuit. What matters is the voltage drop across the atty.

So - I just measured 3 brand new 901 attys, they average 3.6 ohms.

I measured the resistance across the switch. It is very inconsistent and changes everytime I push the button. Typically it is hitting 1.2 ohms. By pressing harder, I can drop the resistance to 0.5 ohms.

So using standard circuit analysis, I came up with these numbers assuming 6.0V batteries and 3.6 ohm attys.

With my brand new switch that typically hits 1.2 ohms - I will get a 4.5 volt drop across the atty. If I push very hard on the switch and drop the resistance to 0.5 ohms, I will get a 5.3 volt drop across the atty.

I just received my V2 yesterday and the switch is not "broken in" just yet. My suspicion is that with continued use, the contacts will start to fit better together and start hitting consistently at a lower resistance. Probably with about 5 volt drop across the atty.

 

[stgardner]

bogdogmax, great post. So, if all else is equal other than my using a 510 atomizer, which I get consistently 2.5 ohms resistance from my digital multimeter, what would you guess the voltage would be across the atomizer then? It would be above the 801 & 901 due to the 510's lower resistance, but any idea roughly what it would end up at? Assuming an average battery voltage of 6.5 volt. Thanks for your help.

I'm seriously considering getting a low bridge RN4072 atty and the 801 adapter for the V2 & see what I get. I think it will put me in closer to what I'm looking for. Of course, I will have to drop a nice 801 t-tip in it!