Rigmod Hotcig Squonk RSQ 80W Box Mod

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b.m.

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If one goes with a Veneer, does it really Need to be Stabilized? The times I have worked with Veneers, a layer of Epoxy on the backside creates a pretty Tough outer layer.
That's a good question,i wondered the same thing.My main thought for it is really more for protecting the wood from juice spills,sweat from your hands,etc. that would either leave stains on the wood,or cause it to warp.I would think like you mention,that epoxy would work just as well.In my case,i already have the stabilizing resin and equipment and don't have any epoxy,but i definitely don't see why epoxy wouldn't work though.Since you have used that method,was the veneer still flexible enough to make that slight curve that the door has,or would it cause the epoxy to crack?
 

zoiDman

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... Since you have used that method,was the veneer still flexible enough to make that slight curve that the door has,or would it cause the epoxy to crack?

I think we are on 2 Different Pages.

When I have down Veneering, I used Epoxy just as you would Wood Glue.

Scuff Up whatever you are going to be Veneered
Mark the Side that is going to be the Outside of the Veneer
Flip the Veneer Over !!! (Important Step - LOL)
Brush on Light Coat of Mixed Epoxy to the Veneer
Brush on Light Coat to what you are Veneering
Position Veneer
Place Wax Paper over the Veneer and Clamp using Clamps or Foam Rubber and Straps/Weight
Light Sand and Finish when Epoxy is Set

I know a Lot of Wood Pen makers use Super Glue as a Finish on the Pens they Make. And I have done some Knife Scales using Gunstock "Tru Oil". Both the Wipe On and the Spray.

Tru Oil takes a Long Time to Fully Cure. But it gives a Pretty Tough finish.

I imagine you could use Epoxy as a Finish. I've never done it. So I don't know how Clear it would be?

What do you use for your for your Stabilizer Resin?
 
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b.m.

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I think we are on 2 Different Pages.

When I have down Veneering, I used Epoxy just as you would Wood Glue.

Scuff Up whatever you are going to be Veneered
Mark the Side that is going to be the Outside of the Veneer
Flip the Veneer Over !!! (Important Step - LOL)
Brush on Light Coat of Mixed Epoxy to the Veneer
Brush on Light Coat to what you are Veneering
Position Veneer
Place Wax Paper over the Veneer and Clamp using Clamps or Foam Rubber and Straps/Weight
Light Sand and Finish when Epoxy is Set

I know a Lot of Wood Pen makers use Super Glue as a Finish on the Pens they Make. And I have done some Knife Scales using Gunstock "Tru Oil". Both the Wipe On and the Spray.

Tru Oil takes a Long Time to Fully Cure. But it gives a Pretty Tough finish.

I imagine you could use Epoxy as a Finish. I've never done it. So I don't know how Clear it would be?

What do you use for your for your Stabilizer Resin?
Ok,yeah i see what you meant now.I was thinking of the 2 part epoxy that a lot of people use in wood working projects,not so much as a finish,but more for filling voids in the wood,etc.,but i have seen it used a finish on some projects.For this purpose though,as far as adhesive,at least for me,i like the idea of the double sided adhesive,that way if i want to change it later,it would be pretty easy to remove.
Yeah,i make a lot of pens,and almost always use the super glue finish,even on stabilized wood,since it serves 2 purposes.The super glue gives good protection against stains and fading,as well as being able to be buffed to a very high gloss.I had first thought of maybe trying that finish on the veneer,but i don't think it would work too well here because the glue finish is fairly fragile,and i don't think it would be able to conform to the curve of the door without cracking,in which it could be applied after the wood is in place on the door,but then that brings it back to ease of removal later,since the glue would seep down around the edges,essentially gluing it to the door.
Another option for someone who wanted to do this would be some wax.I use Johnson's paste wax from Lowes on some of my projects,and it doesn't really aid in durability,but does seem to help keep the wood from getting stained if something gets on it.
The stabilizing resin i use is called Cactus juice,when i was buying the supplies,it was the most highly recommended,so i went with that.
 
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zoiDman

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Ok,yeah i see what you meant now.I was thinking of the 2 part epoxy that a lot of people use in wood working projects,not so much as a finish,but more for filling voids in the wood,etc.,but i have seen it used a finish on some projects.For this purpose though,as far as adhesive,at least for me,i like the idea of the double sided adhesive,that way if i want to change it later,it would be pretty easy to remove.
Yeah,i make a lot of pens,and almost always use the super glue finish,even on stabilized wood,since it serves 2 purposes.The super glue gives good protection against stains and fading,as well as being able to be buffed to a very high gloss.I had first thought of maybe trying that finish on the veneer,but i don't think it would work too well here because the glue finish is fairly fragile,and i don't think it would be able to conform to the curve of the door without cracking,in which it could be applied after the wood is in place on the door,but then that brings it back to ease of removal later,since the glue would seep down around the edges,essentially gluing it to the door.
Another option for someone who wanted to do this would be some wax.I use Johnson's paste wax from Lowes on some of my projects,and it doesn't really aid in durability,but does seem to help keep the wood from getting stained if something gets on it.
The stabilizing resin i use is called Cactus juice,when i was buying the supplies,it was the most highly recommended,so i went with that.

I'm just not sure how well a Double Sided Tape/Adhesive would work on something like a RSQ Door?

Because the Door isn't really Recessed when it is on the Mod. So the Palm of your hand would always kinda be putting Forces on the Edges.

If I had a Spare Door, I might try doing it. Because I have some REM pieces of Veneer in the garage. I'm just kinda Spooked to do Anything to the Doors that I have now that RSQ doesn't seem to be making the RSQ Anymore.

I would think doing a Test on something like a Pulse might be a Better Call. Cause you can buy spare Pulse Doors.
 
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t8kiteasy

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Yeah,me too haha.I am trying to convince myself that it's worth the cost,because i really want one of the green panels.Hopefully someone here in the US will start selling them so the shipping won't be too expensive.

Ok,nope can't justify the cost.I just added 1 to my cart and did the shipping estimator,from Canada to Ohio shipping is $30,no way i'm paying $70 for a thin little panel.

Same color I am wanting also. Hopefully they show up state side and cheaper?
 
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zoiDman

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t8kiteasy

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So..... I had pretty much Resolved Myself to the fact that the RSQ 80w's were gone for good. Kinda a Shame. Because it is IMO a Fantastic Mod.

And then look what I see FT listed Yesterday...

$74.90 Authentic Hotcig RSQ 80W TC VW APV Squonk Box Mod - 200-600'F / 1-80W / zinc alloy / 1*18650 / built-in 8ml squonk bottle at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

LOL
Oh is that sweet. My Aurora has been shipped Friday so I guess now I will have to order my second RSQ.
I love my RSQ too. It is the smallest most compact squonk I own,next to my inbox.
 

t8kiteasy

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in my country RSQ is around usd 52 now ...... cause it consider outdated product for vaper here ..... but only very few store have it ....

Yes that is how they look at it I guess but the RSQ is really not out dated. The only reason I say that is,for it's compact,stealthy size for what it is,nothing else comes close to it in my opinion. I know the inbox is still out but it is bigger than the RSQ. Until something comes along that is more compact(near impossible) it's not out dated.
 

Dropmyload

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Finally got mine. The firmware updater is strange, not easy to use and the mod disconnects in seconds from the pc. Very irritating. Not much time to expore the settings.

Is preheat fixed at 65W? Been trying to change it but doesn't seem to.

Also, how do I draw a pixel to change the hotcig logo? Would love to personalise the startup screen.

Sorry for so many questions....any help would be appreciated.
 

zoiDman

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Finally got mine. The firmware updater is strange, not easy to use and the mod disconnects in seconds from the pc. Very irritating. Not much time to expore the settings.

Is preheat fixed at 65W? Been trying to change it but doesn't seem to.

Also, how do I draw a pixel to change the hotcig logo? Would love to personalise the startup screen.

Sorry for so many questions....any help would be appreciated.

I like to Load the Firmware file into the software before I connect the Mod to my PC. That way I can Poke around and not worry about the Mod timing out.

---

Yeah... I'm not sure what is up with the Pre-Heat? Not Sure if it is Defaulting back to 65W in the Software? Or if it is Not being changed when I set it to something else?

---

To do a Custom Logo, you will need some type of Graphics program like Windows Paint. I made a 128 x 32 Pixel 96dpi B/W JPG and it worked fine.
 

score69

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Agree with @zoiDman, I change the settings in the app before connecting the mod to the PC. Was having similar quick timeouts as well.

Keep in mind, I think they just adapted existing firware software they have (HM Chip Tools if I recall?) to change settings on this as well. Not all of the settings in the software pertain to the mod if I remember correctly. I think changing the drop down to match the wattage output of the board closest to this affects some of the settings, but it still wasn't an exact match for the chip wattage.

It would be nice if only the settings we could change were active in the software, but I don't think that's the case. I changed a few things that seemed to have no effect.

I think I pretty much changed and saved the screen orientation, screen display on time, sleep time, and the setting for the bottle LED and left it alone at that. Some of the other settings appeared to have no effect.
 

Dropmyload

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I recently got into squonking and TC. Both my mods are 75C's and I only do SS316. Would I be disappointed if I got one of these for TC only?
I also do tc on 316 coils, and so far have noted 420F on dna75 is 440F on the rsq. My issue is preheat which seems to be fixed at 65W and cant be changed on the software. Its not possible to manage preheat on the mod itself.
 

t8kiteasy

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My RSQ does TC very well,I have not done the firmware update on mine so,I do not have the pre-heat punch problem posted above. I have not compared the TC vape on it from my DNA,or other mods but TC does work very well. Your question would you be disappointed,no I do not think you would be.
 
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zoiDman

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I recently got into squonking and TC. Both my mods are 75C's and I only do SS316. Would I be disappointed if I got one of these for TC only?

I don't use TC all that much.

But when I have, it seems to work Fine with a 316/316L Single Wire Single Coil. Can't say how it works for Dual Coil Exotic Coils because I don't use them.
 
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mrjohs

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Sometimes I see this mess when I remove the RDA. It is a SXK Le Concorde clone. Anyone know what gives?

ljXGoRq.jpg
 
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