So I'm new to rebuildables. I think I have the general idea but the one question that Im left with is when do I test the coil? Like I've got a little ohm reader, I've got a couple regulated mods, I've got pre coiled coils and the berserker mtl rta and I think I understand from videos the general steps to take but where I'm confused is when do I test the coil and what am I looking for? I don't want to fry my mod..or do something dangerous. Is there a step-by-step guide? I've tried searching for it but I fear that my forum skills are lacking. I know that there's going to be a lot of experimentation but first and foremost I want to make sure that I'm not going to destroy my equipment.
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It depends a lot on what equipment you have. Different types of mods can behave differently. The big thing you want to avoid doing is overdrawing your batteries. If you’ve got a regulated mod this is really easy, you just change the setting. The coil doesn’t matter at all. if you’ve got a non-regulated mod you do so with the ohm rating of your coil. Without knowing what hardware you have it’s difficult to go beyond that.
Install coil. Test fire coil and work out any hot spots there may be. Test the ohms of the coil. Wick the coils. Saturate the wick. Reassemble. Fill. Vape.
What I do is Mount the Coil on the Deck.
Align the Coil Height and make sure none of the Wraps are Bunched up too much.
Put it on my Mod and set the Mod to 15 Watts or so.
Cup My hand around the Deck to put the Coil in Shadow.
Fire the Mod to see if the Coil puts out any Smoke. And that the Coil wants to start to turn Red from the Center of the Coil. This is what we call "Dry Burning".
Once I see that the Center of the Coil is Turning Dull Red, I STOP.
If the Coil Didn't want to turn Red at the Center of the Coil, I take a Blue Screwdriver and Strum the Coil a Few Time Air Guitar style and then Repeat the Dry Burn process.
Then I take it off the Mod and make Sure the Post Screws are still Tight and put it aside to Cool for a moment while I get a Wick ready for Wicking.
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The Key to me when you Dry Burn is to do it at a Low Wattage.
You're Not trying to make a Mini Tanning Lamp. Or make Toast. You're just Cleaning any Residual Oils off the Coil. And Seeing if the Coil will heat Evenly. That is, Get Hot from the Center of the Coil 1st. Then move outwards.
Many Video's show People Dry Burning at like 100 Watts. And keeping Power on until the Entire Coil is Angry Orange.
That is Complete Overkill. And it is a Good Way to Pop the Coil. Or even Melt a Post Insulator.
Just a Mellow Dull Red is at the Center of your Coil is All you need.
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BTW - Having one of these Atomizer Stands is a Must Have...
It makes Mounting Coils and Wicking them Easy.
Many have a 510 Threaded hole in one side. And a Non-Threaded hole in the other.
I personally use an old hybrid mech tube without any batteries in it. Any larger device with a 510 in it can be used really. Having something or other is handy though.BTW - Having one of these Atomizer Stands is a Must Have...
It makes Mounting Coils and Wicking them Easy.
Many have a 510 Threaded hole in one side. And a Non-Threaded hole in the other.
It's also very useful to recheck the coil once you've assembled the rta. You want to make sure that the coil legs aren't touching the sides of the chamber. It's perfectly normal to have a little bit of resistance change, but if you get a super low reading, you know you have a 'short'. I don't think you need to worry about hurting your mod; they're designed to operate within pretty wide ranges.
Those stands are Cool because they have a Low Center of Gravity. So they Don't want to Tip Over.
I learned the Hard Way early on NOT to ever use a Live Mod. Because when you grab it and Accidentally press the Fire Button, strumming the coil with a Blue Screwdriver can give you a Rude Awakening.
I'm glad I picked up a couple before FT discontinued them.BTW - Having one of these Atomizer Stands is a Must Have...
It makes Mounting Coils and Wicking them Easy.
Many have a 510 Threaded hole in one side. And a Non-Threaded hole in the other.
Have a Vapenutt stand that is similar but it's not SS, and will rust if using them with BF attys.
They're also good for removing tight RDA caps without ripping out the 510 on your mod.
Yeah I'm glad I bought 2 when I had a Chance.
I was going to buy a Couple more to give as Gifts this Christmas. But I guess people are going to have to get a Lump of Coal.
Cause I aint Giving up my Back-Up.
LOL
In the beginning I did all the steps on my Coilmaster, including filling and a test vape.
You can heat the coil once you've got a stable resistance and it appears mounted securely. No, you don't want to overheat it but what you are looking for is a dull glow with no hotspots.
I liked doing it that way because yeah, you should check resistance after wicking, installing the atomizer and hopefully not filling completely because SOMETIMES if your coil is mounted too high it will touch the deck someplace and that will either give you a 9.99 atomizer reading or a no atomizer reading.
I also liked the coilmaster because it was a stable base and I have a fine motor tremor also I preferred if I had a catastrophic leak to leak all over my 10 dollar coilmaster than my more expensive mod.
Mine finally gave up the ghost. I haven't had any issues NOT using one but I have a lot more experience now.
Hope this helps good luck!
Anna
You can heat the coil once you've got a stable resistance and it appears mounted securely. No, you don't want to overheat it but what you are looking for is a dull glow with no hotspots.
I liked doing it that way because yeah, you should check resistance after wicking, installing the atomizer and hopefully not filling completely because SOMETIMES if your coil is mounted too high it will touch the deck someplace and that will either give you a 9.99 atomizer reading or a no atomizer reading.
I also liked the coilmaster because it was a stable base and I have a fine motor tremor also I preferred if I had a catastrophic leak to leak all over my 10 dollar coilmaster than my more expensive mod.
Mine finally gave up the ghost. I haven't had any issues NOT using one but I have a lot more experience now.
Hope this helps good luck!
Anna
These are one of those things that are easy to make. It’s just a block of something or other with a 510 thread in it.
I use an old Aegis legend (26650 version) as my build stand. Its got a fat stable footprint and great for dry burning and rinsing dirty coils - no problem when it gets splashed with tap water.
Thank you for letting me know what that is called because I was looking for one but unfortunately when you have "screw" and "thingy" in the search field some NSFW things come upBTW - Having one of these Atomizer Stands is a Must Have...
It makes Mounting Coils and Wicking them Easy.
Many have a 510 Threaded hole in one side. And a Non-Threaded hole in the other.
I do use a mod to check but after the above scenario has happened one too many times to me, after I first check the coil I turn the mod off. Then I finish wicking and turn it back on to double-check things.
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