All KF type attys consume juice at a fairly high rate. Nature of the beast... even with your modest resistance.
Additional coil specifics - wrap count/mandrel ID, might be useful, as would details about wick and mod. I calculate a 10 wrap for a 2mm mandrel, but that's not necessarily what you're running.
High wrap count coils have more surface area, and
may consume more juice. Large ID coils (3mm+) also have a good amount of surface area.
The 'optimal wire gauge' balancing act is comprised of several elements... surface area-desired warmth-resistance-consumption-available air flow-wick material-atomizer chamber area-overall device design (post #2 mentioned KF - coil to air hole gap) and available current. Adjusting one effects all. (And I'm sure I've left out a few... given more time to consider it ;-))
- A 28 gauge 7 wrap on a 3/32" mandrel for 1.2Ω would be warmer, but might cut down on overall consumption a bit.
- If you're using an APV, with a current limiter... say, an MVP2, running right at the max current draw (1.2Ω) slows down the speed at which the coil heats up (low amp limit APVs don't like running WFO all the time)... reducing consumption. By the time the coil starts to get nice an warm, your 10 second draw time limit is up - unless you keep cycling the button.
- A 30 gauge 6 wrap on a 3/32" - would get you back to 1.6Ω... and reduce surface area. Might be a good option.
- You can back out the air screw which will reduce the (vacuum) amount of juice drawn into the atomizing chamber - also increasing air flow. The net effect will be a cooler vape and less consumption.
- If you've already done this, you can tighten the wick density to reduce the capillary action, or fit the wick tighter in the coil.
- Using a smaller bore DT can slow juice consumption as well... but reduces overall air flow.
- You can also run a higher PG (thicker) juice.
Some of these may contribute to burnt hits... so sneak up on any of these, a little at a time.
