I just use organic cotton balls. Some people like the Peaches & Cream variety of yarn.
Russian 91% or kfl+
- Thread starter Cob24
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I just use organic cotton balls. Some people like the Peaches & Cream variety of yarn.
It took a couple of months before I took a liking to the 710. 0mg Pluid has become my GTV (not my ADV, since I vape at least 2 diff. flavors in any given day). Get yourself an io6 atty or two from IKV...you will NOT be disappointed!
After reading a ton of reviews about the Kayfun and Russian RBAs I opted for the Russian. I found it for around $89 and it's on order and should be coming to me at the end of the month. Went to my local brick and mortar and they had a Kayfun Lite for sale at $120. One worker had a Russian on his mod and another had a Kayfun on his and they let me try them back to back. Both had 1.0 ohm coils and I really couldn't tell the difference in performance. Excellent vapor! My only frustration is that I discovered the clear tanks on both are plastic and not glass which I did not notice in a lot of the reviews. IMHO any tank over $40 should be pyrex. The Kayfun owner told me how his friend melted his new Kayfun with gummy blood. For $90-120 I expect solid stainless steel, smooth threads, glass, and no need to alter the included components. I have a Fogger which is a bottom coil RBA and it hit all these points for $40 or so.
TanukiXL
The tanks on the KF and Russian are threaded to connect the base and the top cap. you can use any juice with the steel tanks but threading glass is very unreliable. the clear incerts run about 5 bucks for the clone brands if you want to run tank crackers then you can replace the center tank piece when they go bad. Hope this helps.
The tanks on the KF and Russian are threaded to connect the base and the top cap. you can use any juice with the steel tanks but threading glass is very unreliable. the clear incerts run about 5 bucks for the clone brands if you want to run tank crackers then you can replace the center tank piece when they go bad. Hope this helps.
Or use the stainless piece, or keep the tank crackers in other tanks. Sometimes those reactions can happen pretty fast... faster than you can vape a tank, not to mention what you're leeching into the juice as the plastic degrades.
There are a couple of places working on making glass replacements for them with threaded stainless caps & holding the glass with rings. Not sure if any are available yet.
That was a concern of mine initially, but I got over it. It's just part of the design. I don't regularly vape tank crackers though either.
Now that I have got the Russian, it performs just as well as the kayfun. I was a little concerned about the beaded finish but with my ostrich jwrap black mini with a black driptip, no issues with material/color and verny happy with both toppers!!
I have 2 Russians and 2 KFL+'s and my vote goes to the KFL+. Just seems to be a little more quality throughout.
So my Russian just arrived. What now? I need to clean the whole thing with dawn and then soak in vodka? Do I only need to do it to certain parts? What should I do now that I have this scary little box in front of me?
It's a good idea to give it a good cleaning & check the quality of the machining in case there are loose bits of metal or anything. Can't speak for the R91 since I have KFL's, but look at it & smell it. If there is any trace of machining residue, letting it soak is a good idea. That's almost guaranteed with the cheap clones, not as likely with the more expensive ones. On the flipside it was still produced in a Chinese factory, so I'd still have suspicions. If you second guess yourself, soak it. I'd remove the fill screw, air adjustment screw & both terminal screws for a soak. Otherwise try building a coil. If you leave the wick out, you can still check the resistance & how it fires before you actually vape anything on it. You want it to start glowing in the middle, but move quickly to the rest of the coil. How fast it heats up is part of it as well. Don't worry too much about it, just have fun with it.
So you're saying to clean every part of this thing? Even the part that is going to be connecting to the battery?
If it's coated in machining residue (cutting oil), yes. The authentic KFL's ship clean, no clue about the R91. It's not a cheap clone, but it's still coming out of a country that doesn't have very good requirements in their factories/shops. I'm guessing you'd be fine with a touch of Dawn & a good rinse. If it's obvious, I'd go the extra step.
I take everything apart, soak it in hot soapy water for about 10 mins, rinse it off and wipe it down with paper towels, and then throw the parts into an ultrasonic cleaner for two cycles (usually a couple loads to make sure nothing is touching). I wipe it down again and dry it off. The more gunk that I collect, the happier I am for being so .... retentive.
Yes - clean the 510 pin and everything.
Yes - clean the 510 pin and everything.
I have both the 91% and the KFL+. I like both, they pretty much produce the same vape. However, the KFL+ is just better built, a better design all together, and it was clean out of the box. It's just pure quality in every way.
Here are my issues with the R91%: The center pin on mine has major issues. I have to tighten the "inside center screw" extremely tight or else the positive block on the deck will swivel back and forth when I trap the coil leg under the positive screw. (This could turn your mech mod into a handwarmer if the block makes contact with the chimney during use!) This results in the "inside center screw" becoming recessed too far inside the body. In theory, I SHOULD be able to extend the adjustable center pin out to compensate for this, but what winds up happening when I do that is it won't read on most of my mods until I extend the center pin out farther than it was designed for. At this point the ohm readings are jumping all over the place. As it stands now, I can only safely use it on devices that have an adjustable center pin.
I still love the R91, it's just very finicky. Atleast mine is. Anyone else having this issue? I'd like to find a longer screw for the centerpin, but I have no idea what size I'd be looking for or even where to look. I'm sure that would remedy the issues I'm having. BTW, I'm very familiar with "post pulling" on mods, but I'd rather not do it just to accommodate one problematic atty.
As far as cleaning, I disassembled everything, cleaned & soaked it in soapy water (Dawn) for an hour or so, rinsed & dried everything off, and soaked it again in vodka overnight.
Here are my issues with the R91%: The center pin on mine has major issues. I have to tighten the "inside center screw" extremely tight or else the positive block on the deck will swivel back and forth when I trap the coil leg under the positive screw. (This could turn your mech mod into a handwarmer if the block makes contact with the chimney during use!) This results in the "inside center screw" becoming recessed too far inside the body. In theory, I SHOULD be able to extend the adjustable center pin out to compensate for this, but what winds up happening when I do that is it won't read on most of my mods until I extend the center pin out farther than it was designed for. At this point the ohm readings are jumping all over the place. As it stands now, I can only safely use it on devices that have an adjustable center pin.
I still love the R91, it's just very finicky. Atleast mine is. Anyone else having this issue? I'd like to find a longer screw for the centerpin, but I have no idea what size I'd be looking for or even where to look. I'm sure that would remedy the issues I'm having. BTW, I'm very familiar with "post pulling" on mods, but I'd rather not do it just to accommodate one problematic atty.
As far as cleaning, I disassembled everything, cleaned & soaked it in soapy water (Dawn) for an hour or so, rinsed & dried everything off, and soaked it again in vodka overnight.
Last edited:
I've swapped out the small rubber o-ring that goes between the center post and adjustable pin (screw) with a trimmed rubber insulator from a protank replacement coil; it's the whitish rubber insulator that holds the coil in place. That's lessened the tendency for the center post in my R91% to move in tandem with the pin.
HTH
Thanks for the tip Mad! That sounds like a good fix and I have a few of those in the vape drawer from my bottom coil days.
Alright so I took it all apart and it's in a mason jar with soapy water. I pulled out the fill screw from the bottom and set it aside. I'm gonna give it ten minutes in there and then rub it all down with a good rinse and dry it the best I can. Then it's off to walmart for a roll of peaches and cream yarn (hoping they have it) and a couple of drill bits for wrapping. Gonna bowl a couple games and then tonight is coil building experimentation time. I've got some 30 ga wire here from a rda I bought but I'm gonna order some 32 tonight.
Having taken that thing apart it's pretty overwhelming. In 6'5 with monster hands. Those parts are tiny. I'm fairly certain I'm gonna screw some stuff up before I ever get this stuff right.
Found this thread:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/446263-micro-coils-ohms-description.html#post10177588
And I'm gonna use it to try and get somewhere around what I'm looking for.
So I'm getting it right the wires are supposed to touch eac other right? All through the wrap?
Having taken that thing apart it's pretty overwhelming. In 6'5 with monster hands. Those parts are tiny. I'm fairly certain I'm gonna screw some stuff up before I ever get this stuff right.
Found this thread:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/446263-micro-coils-ohms-description.html#post10177588
And I'm gonna use it to try and get somewhere around what I'm looking for.
So I'm getting it right the wires are supposed to touch eac other right? All through the wrap?
- Status
Similar threads
