Russian 91% v2 irratic resistance readings

[BlackChad]

Wow what an ......., if it's so insignificant you should ask him why they don't foot the bill, especially since it's their mistake in making this product which is requiring you to seek aftermarket pieces to make it function safely and properly. I bet they won't be so casual and dismissive about it then. Also, how the hell is anyone charging $17 for a single screw?! What are they doing, charging a dollar per thread on the screw or something???

They absolutely will continue to be casual and dismissive. Kebo is literally the worst company I've ever dealt with in my 10+ years in customer service. Worse than hp. They could not care less about their customers or people in general. I would not be surprised if they did the v2 fiasco on purpose TBH.

When vendors contacted kebo in regards to replacement pins, kebo made the vendors make a purchase order because they "didn't want to ship just the pins" I kid you not.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

 

[carrielsal]

I have a regular size Russian and a Russian 91% (I don't know why either). Honestly if I had it to do all over again I'd just get the regular size Russian and not the 91%. I don't know what the deal with the 91% is, but I've had every one of the problems mentioned in this thread and then some. I still use it, and have figured out how to get it tightened to where the ohm setting is constant...but getting to that point is a monumental pain in the ... each and every time I clean it.

Mine is one of the the polished chrome looking ones from vapordna, and I'll probably be selling it and all the extra parts I've accumulated for it at some point...probably sooner than later.

I've never had an issue with the full size Russian, and the difference in size is so negligible I really don't even notice it.

I have the polished stainless steel R91 from VaporDNA and absolutely love it. I have 4 R91's and 2 more on the way. With the exception of the v2 center pin fiasco, all my R91's are well made and perform flawlessly.

Let me know if you decide to sell it.

 

[carrielsal]

.........duplicate post

 

[FStopFive]

I have the polished stainless steel R91 from VaporDNA and absolutely love it. I have 4 R91's and 2 more on the way. With the exception of the v2 center pin fiasco, all my R91's are well made and perform flawlessly.

Let me know if you decide to sell it.

Maybe that's my issue then. I don't know which version this is, but given the issues I've had with it, I'm guessing it's a V2. I bought a kit for like $10 from a dude on eBay who sells replacement parts for this and Kayfun Lite 3.1. The center post screw in his kit is far too long to use, but other than that everything is perfect. The little white block that goes in between the center block and the screw has been my saving grace. The original one that came with my Russian 91% absolutely would not stay in place, whereas this one is staying in place.

...and Jesus, you're about to have SIX of these?

Ya I'll shoot you a PM if I decide I want to get rid of this. That decision could be made as early as today or tomorrow (as I need to clean this, which is as much fun as a tooth extraction).

 

[Firestorm]

...and Jesus, you're about to have SIX of these?

I only have five (four R91s and one KFL+)

 

[AAGF]

I just received a Russian 91% V2 from Mt Baker - it had a screw in a little plastic bag taped to the box - BUT - the screw (which has a slotted head) does not have any holes drilled in it horizontally, which the original has. Will this work, or have they made a mistake?

 

[dsy5]

I'm not 100% sure (maybe 91%), but I believe the hole is integral to making the air-flow control possible.

 

[AAGF]

I'm not 100% sure (maybe 91%), but I believe the hole is integral to making the air-flow control possible.

That was my take on it too - oh well, back to my V1 for now ...

 

[VAscooter]

I just received a Russian 91% V2 from Mt Baker - it had a screw in a little plastic bag taped to the box - BUT - the screw (which has a slotted head) does not have any holes drilled in it horizontally, which the original has. Will this work, or have they made a mistake?

I got one from them as well with the screw attached to the box. Mine had the slot and center screw. Not sure why yours didn't. Hopefully they will send another. I can only get mine to work with my Sigelei 20w. Won't work with any other vv/vw devices and tightened the screw holding post with needle nose. I have adjusted that center screw every which way and still won't work. Very frustrating.

 

[BobC]

There's a derlin ring on the screw, move it up and you should see the horizontal holes

 

[MikeE3]

I got one from them as well with the screw attached to the box. Mine had the slot and center screw. Not sure why yours didn't. Hopefully they will send another. I can only get mine to work with my Sigelei 20w. Won't work with any other vv/vw devices and tightened the screw holding post with needle nose. I have adjusted that center screw every which way and still won't work. Very frustrating.

The V1 510 post is 2 screws - a long one to screw the the positive block and a small screw that screws into that. The little screw is the adjustment screw to make proper contact to the PV. Is Mt Baker sending just 1 long screw?

 

[VAscooter]

The V1 510 post is 2 screws - a long one to screw the the positive block and a small screw that screws into that. The little screw is the adjustment screw to make proper contact to the PV. Is Mt Baker sending just 1 long screw?

Nope. Mt Baker sent the complete 2 piece screw set with the small adjustment screw with o oring attached. The issue I have is that after adjusting the screw and screwing Russian to device, it screws in as well farther which won't allow for contact. Very frustrating. Tried putting on another o ring but that didn't work either. Still no connection.

 

[carrielsal]

Maybe that's my issue then. I don't know which version this is, but given the issues I've had with it, I'm guessing it's a V2. I bought a kit for like $10 from a dude on eBay who sells replacement parts for this and Kayfun Lite 3.1. The center post screw in his kit is far too long to use, but other than that everything is perfect. The little white block that goes in between the center block and the screw has been my saving grace. The original one that came with my Russian 91% absolutely would not stay in place, whereas this one is staying in place.

...and Jesus, you're about to have SIX of these?

Ya I'll shoot you a PM if I decide I want to get rid of this. That decision could be made as early as today or tomorrow (as I need to clean this, which is as much fun as a tooth extraction).

How long ago did you buy this? The polished stainless steel R91's from VaporDNA were all v1's. It should have the 2 part center pin.

 

[BobC]

Nope. Mt Baker sent the complete 2 piece screw set with the small adjustment screw with o oring attached. The issue I have is that after adjusting the screw and screwing Russian to device, it screws in as well farther which won't allow for contact. Very frustrating. Tried putting on another o ring but that didn't work either. Still no connection.

No need to screw it in all the way, it's adjustable, and loose is fine, trust me it woiks just fine

 

[VAscooter]

No need to screw it in all the way, it's adjustable, and loose is fine, trust me it woiks just fine

Sorry, I guess I'm not explaining my problem clear enough. When I unscrew the small center screw out, let's say 1/32 inch as an example and then screw the 91 into the 510, I get no power to the 91. When I unscrew the 91, the small center screw has screwed back flush with the larger screw so am not making contact. This happens with every device. Somehow that little screw is moving and turning with the 91 when I'm attaching to the device. Is that a little clearer?

 

[BobC]

Yes, clearer, but I don't understand how it could screw beyond touching the mod 510 connection, it should at least stay flush, could your adj. screw or main post be stripped?

If not, unscrew it as much as possible without taking it off, and see what happens, loose is OK

 

[BobC]

One other note: the Russian 91 has the shortest 510 I've seen, I know I have problems on my old Vamo, which I use to test ohms on.

 

[VAscooter]

Yes, clearer, but I don't understand how it could screw beyond touching the mod 510 connection, it should at least stay flush, could your adj. screw or main post be stripped?

If not, unscrew it as much as possible without taking it off, and see what happens, loose is OK

I'll take a couple of pictures when I get home. Little screw doesn't go below the main screw. Just flush. I've even had the small center screw almost falling out and still will be flush when I take the 91 off. Pretty bizarre. I'm generally pretty good at figuring things out and this one has me baffled. Thanks for all of the tips.

 

[duroSIG556R]

Sorry, I guess I'm not explaining my problem clear enough. When I unscrew the small center screw out, let's say 1/32 inch as an example and then screw the 91 into the 510, I get no power to the 91. When I unscrew the 91, the small center screw has screwed back flush with the larger screw so am not making contact. This happens with every device. Somehow that little screw is moving and turning with the 91 when I'm attaching to the device. Is that a little clearer?

Yeah that's going to cause a hard short real quick and if on a mech mod could quite possibly cause your battery to vent. If the 510 screw is loose it could easily hit the wall of the base.

Try using some teflon tape around the center pin and then push the insulator over that and tighten, it should hold down the block without a bunch of rotations to tighten, thus not giving your 510 screw much room to screw in. That's a temporary fix.

Welcome to horrible tolerances of the KEBO Russian 91.

 

[FStopFive]

How long ago did you buy this? The polished stainless steel R91's from VaporDNA were all v1's. It should have the 2 part center pin.

You're correct, it does have two of the center pins (the smaller of the two for making connectivity to the mod).

The combination of these screws is still too short IMO, and I took one of the extra super small o-rings and added in there so that the center post wasn't super loose anymore.

This may have already been covered in here, but what's the difference between the V1 and the V2? Did they fix this design flaw?