Sounds like we're all better off picking up a real kfl or the hcigar or Ehpro version. The Tobeco ones whistle too much for me.
Russian 91% v2 irratic resistance readings
- Thread starter carrielsal
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I believe that if we were able to get an exact copy of the v1 center post our troubles would be solved. Just need to get a manufacturer to do it...
While a spring assisted positive post is a great idea for an rba, I don't think that it is practical in the fact that the ohms we are using are so low. If it were purely a mechanical adjustment, like some mechanical mods have, I think it would work fine.
However to contradict myself, the nautilus has a spring post and it doesn't seem to have these problems... yet!
While a spring assisted positive post is a great idea for an rba, I don't think that it is practical in the fact that the ohms we are using are so low. If it were purely a mechanical adjustment, like some mechanical mods have, I think it would work fine.
However to contradict myself, the nautilus has a spring post and it doesn't seem to have these problems... yet!
If I had a lathe and new what to do with it - I probably could have made a new part what w/ the time I've spent on getting a stable Ω reading but - Finally Success! A stable .8Ωs using the Fat Daddy 2 screw post from the Kayfun Lite Plus Rebuild kit he sells.
From my previous post - you saw the rebuild kit's long screw post is too 'long'. It doesn't tighten enough before it bottoms out on the shoulder below the threads and also protrudes way too far past the top of the deck by about 4+ threads.
So I took one of these from my parts stash. Don't know where it came from. It's a pliable insulator probably from some kind of clearo tank. I cut it in 1/2 to make a tiny o-ring and slipped it onto the FD 510 post before screwing it to the deck's positive block.
You need to use the R91's post insulator not the one from the FD kit along w/ the 'custom' o-ring. The FD insulator is bigger and w/ the 'o-ring' the air hole in the post will get covered. (the air hole position is lower on the FD post).
I was able to tighten the block and have just a couple too many threads above the block. (about 1/2 the exposed threads than without the 'o-ring mod'. I had too choices 1.) hook up the coil and see how it worked or 2.) try cutting/grinding a couple threads off the post. I took the easy way and just made the coil legs long enough to get clearance.
The coil fires fine from the 'inside' out. I did notice the neg leg glows on a 'long' dry fire. When I put some cotton through the coil, added some juice, and test fired it - it seemed to work just fine w/o any hot legs.
I assembled the R91 and took a test draw and the air flow is fine. Just wanted to make sure, since the air hole is positioned lower' it didn't block or effect the draw. Honestly, I haven't filled the tank and used it yet. I just want to feel, at least for awhile, that I solved a problem. I'll vape it later after I clean up the work bench (i.e. the kitchen table).
Hope this helps anyone else that has already purchased this rebuilt kit to fix-up their wonky R91V2.
(Note: I don't have as much adjustment leeway with the FD 2 screw 510 post as w/ an original R91V1 setup. But I have enough for sure to make it work on the little black box tester and the mech mod I used to test it. Probably due to the different length of the post and/or the custom 'o-ring'.)
From my previous post - you saw the rebuild kit's long screw post is too 'long'. It doesn't tighten enough before it bottoms out on the shoulder below the threads and also protrudes way too far past the top of the deck by about 4+ threads.
So I took one of these from my parts stash. Don't know where it came from. It's a pliable insulator probably from some kind of clearo tank. I cut it in 1/2 to make a tiny o-ring and slipped it onto the FD 510 post before screwing it to the deck's positive block.
You need to use the R91's post insulator not the one from the FD kit along w/ the 'custom' o-ring. The FD insulator is bigger and w/ the 'o-ring' the air hole in the post will get covered. (the air hole position is lower on the FD post).
I was able to tighten the block and have just a couple too many threads above the block. (about 1/2 the exposed threads than without the 'o-ring mod'. I had too choices 1.) hook up the coil and see how it worked or 2.) try cutting/grinding a couple threads off the post. I took the easy way and just made the coil legs long enough to get clearance.
The coil fires fine from the 'inside' out. I did notice the neg leg glows on a 'long' dry fire. When I put some cotton through the coil, added some juice, and test fired it - it seemed to work just fine w/o any hot legs.
I assembled the R91 and took a test draw and the air flow is fine. Just wanted to make sure, since the air hole is positioned lower' it didn't block or effect the draw. Honestly, I haven't filled the tank and used it yet. I just want to feel, at least for awhile, that I solved a problem. I'll vape it later after I clean up the work bench (i.e. the kitchen table).
Hope this helps anyone else that has already purchased this rebuilt kit to fix-up their wonky R91V2.
(Note: I don't have as much adjustment leeway with the FD 2 screw 510 post as w/ an original R91V1 setup. But I have enough for sure to make it work on the little black box tester and the mech mod I used to test it. Probably due to the different length of the post and/or the custom 'o-ring'.)
I bought 2 of the KFL rebuilt kit from Fat Daddy Vapes on Ebay with the 2 piece center post, my small screw doesn't thread into the center post. Wrong threads, one is to big (center post) small screw threads will not engage.
Anyone else having this problem? This Russian 91% V2 has been a major disappointment.
Anyone else having this problem? This Russian 91% V2 has been a major disappointment.
It sucks that I am not handy enough to fix this thing.... I think the real issue is paying a 100 dollars for an atomizer that is supposed to function properly to begin with. Say all you want about cheaper clones being a bad thing, but my ehpro kfl + actually WORKS.. It's clone city for this guy, I am not paying a premium price for piece that May or may not work... For those of you who have the spare money go for it... 100 bucks is still a pretty big loss for me
The long screw fit OK thread-wise into the R91's block. Even though the little screw fits into the big screw, it is a very loose connection. Just screwing it on and off the PV it move alot and I have to re-adjust it before putting back onto the PV. QC is not so good w/ these parts kits IMHO.
Damn, I really feel for you guys. I got mine today from EVC: http://www.evcigarettes.com/the-russian-91-rebuildable-atomizer/
I was a little worried because their site previously described it as a v2, even though the pics were v1. Well, it is v1, with the flathead center screw. Based on this and other threads, if it was a v2 I probably would have sent it back.
Have you guys contacted your vendors about a refund?
I was a little worried because their site previously described it as a v2, even though the pics were v1. Well, it is v1, with the flathead center screw. Based on this and other threads, if it was a v2 I probably would have sent it back.
Have you guys contacted your vendors about a refund?
I contacted my vendor, MBV. I guess they are going to send a V1 center screw, when they get them in from Kebo.
Glad to hear you got it to work Mike — I think I might wait a while to see if any other company comes up with a better/higher quality post...
Bought mine on a offsite co-op, haven't heard from the co-op organizer yet, but, am sure he will get something going.
Mike - Thanks for sorting all of this out. I did purchase the same kit, although my V2 seems to be behaving at the moment, I thought I would get one just in case.
I'm glad you posted. I ordered one before I found this thread and was hoping there were a least a couple of people who weren't having a problem.
I will have the fat daddy kit here Monday think I know how to make it work I'll let y'all know when I get it,might need a drill press.
Another thought I had was to fill the void where the spring is with solder then push the pin in and hold it in till it cools I think this would work if used on a mod with an adjustable center pin,Please be careful if you try this because some hot solder might squirt out!!
Another thought I had was to fill the void where the spring is with solder then push the pin in and hold it in till it cools I think this would work if used on a mod with an adjustable center pin,Please be careful if you try this because some hot solder might squirt out!!
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I ordered and had a R91% delivered to friend in australia who bring it to me when he comes next month
The Russian 91% - Electronic Cigarettes - VapingMadElectronic Cigarettes – VapingMad
any idea if this is a V1 or V2? I would hate to have spent all this money and gone through all the trouble for a messed up model :S
The Russian 91% - Electronic Cigarettes - VapingMadElectronic Cigarettes – VapingMad
any idea if this is a V1 or V2? I would hate to have spent all this money and gone through all the trouble for a messed up model :S
The pictures on the site are of a v1. Look at the 4th pic- note the flathead center pin. But what you see is not always what you get.
I haven't had any issues at all, and others that ordered multiple are finding the problem exists with perhaps one of theirs and not the other. However, it is definitely a problem and at least is being recognized by the distributor.
I have been using mine for about a week now, and built a 1.6 coil and use it on my ProVari daily, and because of the issues I check it periodically during the day and have stayed at 1.6Ω so all is well.
My turd has started fluctuating again Everything is still tight. The ohms stayed stable for my first tank full. Then, I opened it up to change flavors, remove cotton wick, dry burn coil, rinse, dry, add new cotton wick. I made sure everything was tight. Tested it and see it fluctuating agian. Checked to make sure everything is tight, again. Ohms seem more stable. Reassembled and filled. Ohms jumping. It is not as bad as when I first put a coil in. But, it's jumping. I am so .......
I'm going to a vape meet this afternoon. If anyone leaves a V1 pin laying around, it will likely end up in my V2. just kidding. I will be checking vendors and hoping someone there has a fix or a V1 pin though.
I guess I am one of the lucky ones, as I have put a couple of tanks through mine (not full ones) but I was even playing around the other day and decided to see what it would look like with the nano kit from FT, so I put it together like this:
Note to self: You need the window so you can check the juice - (vaped it dry and burnt the cotton wick in half
)
Note to self: You need the window so you can check the juice - (vaped it dry and burnt the cotton wick in half
)
Caution/Waring re: FD Kayfun Lite Plus rebuilt kit w/ 2 piece 510 post.
Yikes! It's a never ending story. Just ran into another problem w/ the FD rebuilt kit's post. The threading for the little adjustment screw is terrible. I can basically just push the little screw into the long screw. The threading just doesn't match up. Couldn't figure out why I lost 'connection' of the R91 to my PV, then noticed the adjusment screw was pushed in to far. When trying to unscrew it - it just 'spun' and would not 'screw out'. Crap!
So I took some fine copper wire and wound it around the threads of the little screw. Then with light pressure on the little screw I worked it back into the long post. Not happy at all with the QC of these things. I have 2 of his kits and both have the same problem w/ the screw fit.
FWIW - Fat Daddy did contact me about getting pictures, measurements and/or a center post of the proper size and he would look into getting them made specifically for the R91. We'll see where this goes - but I'll surely be stressing to him that the quality needs to be addressed not just the proper lenght, etc.
Yikes! It's a never ending story. Just ran into another problem w/ the FD rebuilt kit's post. The threading for the little adjustment screw is terrible. I can basically just push the little screw into the long screw. The threading just doesn't match up. Couldn't figure out why I lost 'connection' of the R91 to my PV, then noticed the adjusment screw was pushed in to far. When trying to unscrew it - it just 'spun' and would not 'screw out'. Crap!
So I took some fine copper wire and wound it around the threads of the little screw. Then with light pressure on the little screw I worked it back into the long post. Not happy at all with the QC of these things. I have 2 of his kits and both have the same problem w/ the screw fit.
FWIW - Fat Daddy did contact me about getting pictures, measurements and/or a center post of the proper size and he would look into getting them made specifically for the R91. We'll see where this goes - but I'll surely be stressing to him that the quality needs to be addressed not just the proper lenght, etc.
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Yepper - I've got 2 of the V2's from that batch and one of they seems to be OK.
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