Ah, thank you. Unfortunately I see it has a faux hybrid top cap, so I believe I'll have to pass. Love the idea though. I'd buy one if it had a pin.
Samsung 25R Cult?
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I have a test equipment which measures the internal resistance of batteries.
The sale model, 25R, 30Q, 5A, etc. is more a broad classification of the quality, not a precise indication of its performance.
The 25R, I can say, are best bang for the buck.
Most of the 3000 mah batteries tend to slip around 30 milliohm, not the declared 20 milliohm.
If you can't measure the internal resistance, sticking to 2500 mah batteries will ensure a better general performance of your vape device.
A 2500 / 20 battery is better than a 3000 / 30 under ALL circumstances.
The sale model, 25R, 30Q, 5A, etc. is more a broad classification of the quality, not a precise indication of its performance.
The 25R, I can say, are best bang for the buck.
Most of the 3000 mah batteries tend to slip around 30 milliohm, not the declared 20 milliohm.
If you can't measure the internal resistance, sticking to 2500 mah batteries will ensure a better general performance of your vape device.
A 2500 / 20 battery is better than a 3000 / 30 under ALL circumstances.
Are you measuring AC or DC internal resistance?
With an AC meter, I have yet to see a 3000 mAh cell approach 30 mΩ.
Playing with a Vapcell YR1030 AC Resistance Tester
The "faux hybrid", or direct-to-battery types are in some ways actually better than the ones that have a pin. Theoretically they're less safe, but in practice the safety still depends on the user before anything else, while the additional knowledge required to pass the "safety exam" largely is overblown by those who are inclined to steer people away from using a mech with scaremongering tactics the magnitude of which sometimes just makes me wonder if they're not getting paid by the FDA.
I've had 25R, 30Q, VTC6, AW 2000, and a few others for years. Yes, there's a difference at my 10W vape level, but it's a measurable vape time number that isn't readily apparent when battery change time comes around. Even the Efest batteries I had years ago that were rated at some ridiculous 3500 MAH number performed well, but I might have gotten rewrap versions that were actually good cells in an Efest wrapper. Those were whatever was cheapest in bulk for Efest at the time.
These days I buy from reputable vendors who are reported to sell actual brand name cells.
These days I buy from reputable vendors who are reported to sell actual brand name cells.
Your test equipment when it comes to measuring the DC IR is extremely inaccurate to the point of being just worthless junk. Mooch has tested the VTC6 and it was only 21.4mOhms DC IR, but still apples and oranges because the VTC6 is only a 15A battery versus 20A for the 25R so to be fair you need to compare the 25R with Sony VTC5A, VTC5D, VTC6A, Samsung 24S for how hard it hits if you're on the mech and look at the run time in watt-hours instead of in mAh like I already explained up thread.
Some on this forum might describe me as a "scaremongerer" when it comes to mech mods and inexperienced novices, and in particular when the mech mod is a direct battery/faux hybrid.
I like to consider myself more of an "educator". It's widely believed that the majority of mech mod explosions in the last couple of years have involved novices using the wrong juice attachment on top of their direct battery mod. So when I read of a novice who is considering a direct battery mod, a mental red flag begins waving in my head. I will then inform the possibly uninformed novice that a faux hybrid has special and unique considerations concerning safety.
I respect @suprtrkr's comment that he'll take a pass on a faux hybrid. In addition, no, I'm not getting paid by the FDA.
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I never said it doesn't have special and unique considerations concerning safety. It does, but that doesn't also mean it will explode after you take those special and unique considerations concerning safety into account, nor does it mean you have to be a rocket scientist to be able to correctly figure it all out fast, and, as a matter of true fact I do respect his (as well as everybody else's, for that matter...) choice if that's what you are worrying about.
Some on this forum might describe me as a "scaremongerer" when it comes to mech mods and inexperienced novices, and in particular when the mech mod is a direct battery/faux hybrid.
I like to consider myself more of an "educator". It's widely believed that the majority of mech mod explosions in the last couple of years have involved novices using the wrong juice attachment on top of their direct battery mod. So when I read of a novice who is considering a direct battery mod, a mental red flag begins waving in my head. I will then inform the possibly uninformed novice that a faux hybrid has special and unique considerations concerning safety.
I respect @suprtrkr's comment that he'll take a pass on a faux hybrid. In addition, no, I'm not getting paid by the FDA.
Well, I can assure you I am not getting paid by the FDA. I can also assure you I don't like DTB top caps. Yes, I really do think I could use them safely. But I don't need to, and I am prepared to tolerate the tiny increase in I2R losses to have the additional safety. To each his own, of course.
Not trying to point any fingers, it's just that some people go as far as to tell others to never choose a DTB for their first mech because oooh so dangerous and you're going to blow your face off twice etc. and so on when the reality is there's absolutely no need to go full panic. Personally I don't mind the tiny bit of extra voltage drop either, and in fact I own several mechs that have an adjustable pin myself, albeit my first couple of mechs were all DTB tubes, as proper knowledge makes me feel comfortable with them and that's it.
Ditto, although I fear I am one of those who cautions people about the top cap. It's too easy to short it at the battery positive pole with just a little dent in it, the way they build some of those attys (shudder). Say, you use button top batteries in your Gandalf stick, or does it come with a connector button, or you just mush flat-tops up in the tube?
Hello Dripster,
I was trying to articulate a response, but I am incapable to make a sense of your post.
The battery current used by Mooch is the maximum current allowed at a given temperature, and a direct consequence of internal resistance of batteries - not else. Hence, IR is the only number that counts.
I do not use mechanical mods- they are a clear and present danger, have poor performance - the Neolithic of vaping.
I was trying to articulate a response, but I am incapable to make a sense of your post.
The battery current used by Mooch is the maximum current allowed at a given temperature, and a direct consequence of internal resistance of batteries - not else. Hence, IR is the only number that counts.
I do not use mechanical mods- they are a clear and present danger, have poor performance - the Neolithic of vaping.
It's kind of funny, "You must use these new batteries because they're the best." and the same person using mechs when there is absolutely no excuse to use a mech any more. Have one in a vapocalypse stash box, sure, but even if someone actually loves diminishing power through a battery's charge they could use bypass and still have a higher level of safety with the circuits.
Well of course there's ample reason to be cautious so that's why I am cautious, but I mean how hard can it be for someone who uses his/her brain to learn that there's a checklist that not only includes inspecting the battery in every way including measuring the volts not screwing the RDA on there too tightly nor screwing the different parts of the mod together too tightly but still tight enough to not start loosening back up and choosing an RDA that has a pin that protrudes far enough as well as doesn't collapse and that you have verified that it doesn't, but also other important things such as inspecting the whole mod plus the RDA all from the bottom to the top inside and outside including the button as well as the inside of the button, always regardless of whether it is a DTB?
Like, if there are burrs or sharp edges that can damage the battery wrap or there's a stray piece of metal lurking in a small corner where it is stuck so it doesn't rattle when you shake the mod and so you don't notice unless you look everywhere instead of being stupid by just shaking the mod thinking you would always hear it that way, then simply relying on the fact that it isn't a DTB isn't going to help save me. If you don't know how to do a stable coil build that's safe and stable so it doesn't short out your RDA in any way possible, the ohms, the battery safety, the everything and that also includes the accuracy of your ohms reader, then it still isn't going to help save me. Gandalf stick is not for vaping. I'm too afraid to go out in the garden space holding it vertical because I fear it might attract a lightning bolt from the sky that's above my head.
The battery current used by Mooch to give battery current ratings that are based on his battery tests is the Continuous Discharge Rate (CDR), and is the maximum current that's all he'll recommend for safety even though he feels every vaper should be allowed to make his/her own vaping decisions. IR is not the only number that counts. While it is true the fact lithium-ion rechargeable batteries generate heat if placed under load as a result from their internal resistance, there is no linear relationship between the battery temperature measured on the outside of the battery and the IR so no, IR is not the only number that counts. The current load in cohort with the IR is indicative of how fast the battery heats up. But it doesn't tell us anything about how long the battery temperature will keep rising, nor about how high the battery temperature will be at the point in time when it stops rising.
That said, I disagree with your assertion that mech mods are a clear and present danger. Only after you start using them they become dangerous, but that's only because it is dangerous to vape, i.e. we still vape anyway nevertheless because we choose to accept a certain risk level. Battery safety is all about different shades of gray. Through knowledge about batteries and battery safety we can mitigate risks. There are no hard and fast numbers that either are safe or are unsafe to vape. As for the performace of mech mods vs that of other types, yeah,
Dear Lord!Technically speaking I don't really require any of those Power-Tool batteries either. But that's just because all my friends call me Gandalf.
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