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totaltechsvc

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Update for anyone on a 3.7v device on scubagenv3 that wants more flavor and vapor. I was having trouble with the curve an Jhook. I knew it was a long shot but, I went ahead and cut the curve out and wired up a second coil with non resistive wire. 1 coil is 5 wraps kenthal 32 and the second one I did nichrome 34 4 wraps. It meters out at 1.2 ohms. Im getting Dual Coil hits vapor like I got at 5v warm but, not wet. The flavor is very clean.
dual coil SGV3.jpeg
 
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UA72Riddle

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Update for anyone on a 3.7v device on scubagenv3 that wants more flavor and vapor. I was having trouble with the curve an Jhook. I knew it was a long shot but, I went ahead and cut the curve out and wired up a second coil with non resistive wire. 1 coil is 5 wraps kenthal 32 and the second one I did nichrome 34 4 wraps. It meters out at 1.2 ohms. Im getting Dual Coil hits vapor like I got at 5v warm but, not wet. The flavor is very clean.
View attachment 57383

Nice....might have to try that out. Just used nonres wire between the coils?
 

UA72Riddle

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On my vertical coil PV, just for fun I coiled up two parallel coils on the same wick that metered at 1.6 ohms... just to see what would happen.

It vaped about as well as a 3.2 ohm coil would have worked on a 3.7v battery... with about half the battery life... epic fail!

Zen...the more I see it...the more I like that mod you made there...any way I can talk you out of one of em? :laugh:
 

Zen~

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Zen...the more I see it...the more I like that mod you made there...any way I can talk you out of one of em? :laugh:

There's been a LOT of that sort of question being asked, and I have made a few for friends, etc. but to straight up answer your question... the answer is... I don't know, and I'm not comfortable discussing it until I even know if I'm going to make the switch to supplier status. I DO KNOW that ECF would frown on, and most likely perma-ban me, for even discussing price or making plans to sell without me FIRST becoming a registered supplier, especially since they know I have read and understand the rules. The best I can say right now is that I can't answer questions about price or availability until which time I decide to do this, and follow the steps needed to do it within the provisions set forth in the user agreement of this forum.

I'm thrilled by everybody's response, and thank everybody for being so enthusiastic about it, but, if or when the time comes I will do this the right way.

Side Note: If you're going to VaporCon 2011 in Richmond, you can see it in person... I'll be there.
 

totaltechsvc

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Nice....might have to try that out. Just used nonres wire between the coils?

This is just temporary for now. I used a staple for the wire, this was last night when I was working late and frustrated with the vapor. Here is a mock up in MSPAINT. My plan next will be to redo the Negative spring post into a second positive post and drill the body with a screw post for the negative.
Dual Coil Temp.JPG
 

kcos

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There's been a LOT of that sort of question being asked, and I have made a few for friends, etc. but to straight up answer your question... the answer is... I don't know, and I'm not comfortable discussing it until I even know if I'm going to make the switch to supplier status. I DO KNOW that ECF would frown on, and most likely perma-ban me, for even discussing price or making plans to sell without me FIRST becoming a registered supplier, especially since they know I have read and understand the rules. The best I can say right now is that I can't answer questions about price or availability until which time I decide to do this, and follow the steps needed to do it within the provisions set forth in the user agreement of this forum.

I'm thrilled by everybody's response, and thank everybody for being so enthusiastic about it, but, if or when the time comes I will do this the right way.

Side Note: If you're going to VaporCon 2011 in Richmond, you can see it in person... I'll be there.

Hey zen I live in Rochester I would love to get together with you to check them out.
 

Krythis

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So I completed a second build using the 0-80 rod for the positive post and press fitting the negative using the spring pin supplied in the second co-op. Unfortunately I'm getting similar results to the first kit I put together, so there must be something I'm missing here.

With the cap off the vapor production is very low, and my coil goes red after 2-3 seconds. There is no continuity between the mesh and the coil or body. The mesh appears close to the body center post in these pictures, but it is not touching.

I have ~3.5 loops for 2.0 ohms and am using a ProVari at 3.8v. Coil is made from the Kanthal supplied in the co-op kit, I believe it's 32 gauge? The wick is wet and if I touch a paper towel to it it immediately wicks to the towel. I've also dripped many times with the same results.

I'm not sure what the problem could be unless my coil is supposed to be a lot tighter to the wick? I have several different gauges of wire in both Kanthal and Nichrome so I'm probably going to give Nichrome a shot, but hoping some of the GenGurus out there might be able to notice something in these images that I do not. Any advice would be greatly appreciated :confused:

Edit to add: Juice is an 18mg DIY 80/20

SBDG3.JPG

SBDG2.JPG

SBDG1.JPG
 

totaltechsvc

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Yes tighten up the coil. Im using 18650, and on a fresh battery this would also happen to me. I found with kenthal I could go no less than 5 loops especially at first until it was broke in (residue has built up on the coil and you can see tiny liquid bubbles when you activate it) depending on the liquid you use this can take up to a tank before you see this. :( With Nichrome 34 Im able to do 4-4.5 wraps without it getting to hot to quick for the liquid to catch up.
 

asdaq

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The multiple high res shots from various angles help a lot. You can see that the coil doesn't touch on the top bottom or side- too loose. Also that bend in the kanthal from the pos post doesn't help. Too much Kanthal free floating compared to the amount within the coil, and I would add one or two wraps to start at the safer end of things.

Real nice is the action shot, you can see the center wrap is orange and the others red which shows it is way too hot and dry. Lovely photo that, especially with the orange o-rings. :)
 

Krythis

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Ok, I'd tighten it up which should allow a couple more loops. I watched Dan's video several times and that is how I'm doing it. I start with 5 wraps around the base of the wick then slide it up. The curve is a bit smaller so this leaves some room at the top and the resistance is somewhere around 5 ohm, so I reduced it to 3.5 wraps.
 
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