Scubagen Mods

[Krythis]

I have another kit I'm using to play around with a dual coil set up. With that kit I used the (24g?) wire that was included in the kit for the positive wire. But instead of going to a positive post I cut it short of the top and topped off with a short SS hypodermic tube. The SS tube is inserted into a small piece of synthetic wine cork to keep it from the SS walls. I press a SS wire into the tube for the connection.

Sounds similar to what you mentioned, but keep in mind that you probably want some wire in there so that the positive atty connector has some play when screwing it onto a power source.

Still working on it, but this is the setup I'm using on the second kit.

 

[urquidezj]

Dam that looks like its gonna vape like a monster!

 

[lorderos33]

I tried something very similar and it does vape like a monster

Dam that looks like its gonna vape like a monster!

 

[ainako]

If I were to get this Mini Lathe - 7" x 10" Precision Mini Lathe
And have ZERO experience in machining, how hard would it be to make myself some of these mods. I recently got a P+10440 and can't stop obsessing how fitting the micro-g would be for it.

 

[lexi60]

That's the lathe I have. And learned on.
Great machine for the money.
I don't know if it's the lathe or me, just don't like stainless steel. Probably me.
But I have turned alot of aluminum and brass for ecigs, reloading, ect
Without any problems.

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[lorderos33]

That's the lathe I have. And learned on.
Great machine for the money.
I don't know if it's the lathe or me, just don't like stainless steel. Probably me.
But I have turned alot of aluminum and brass for ecigs, reloading, ect
Without any problems.

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk

Stainless is tough stuff and takes lots of patience and very good tools to turn. Probably not really you, more than stainless takes practice to turn nicely on small lathes like those

I've seen some of your work, it's certainly not a lack of skill Lexi. You can do it on those lathes as well, just have to take it real easy, use lots of lube to keep things cool and have really hard and sharp tools.

 

[ainako]

I'm definitely going to have to pick up one of those bad boys in the future then, unless someone can make me micro-g

 

[2fat]

do you ship to singapore

 

[lexi60]

Im going to ask in this thread, instead of making a new one. if its ok...
I need lathe users help, as I know I can turn alot of stuff out of aluminum.
On turning Stainless steel..
Bits.. Carbide or HSS? best place to buy them?
Slow and light cuts.. right?
The only tools I have used are Harbor Freight carbide brazed bits.
Im sure this is half my problem.
Any help please? Sorry if this is wrong to ask in this thread
Thanks.

 

[urquidezj]

Carbide is good but it's brittle. I always wear em out n my boss gets ......, hss I like better since I can just take it off and really grind it. Either way ss is a b to machine and you need to turn slow and cut slow, it also matters how strong of a lathe you have. I usually hog out material at slow speed and finish at high speed, since your finish pass should be a .010 cut. Hope that helps

 

[nicotime]

Im going to ask in this thread, instead of making a new one. if its ok...
I need lathe users help, as I know I can turn alot of stuff out of aluminum.
On turning Stainless steel..
Bits.. Carbide or HSS? best place to buy them?
Slow and light cuts.. right?
The only tools I have used are Harbor Freight carbide brazed bits.
Im sure this is half my problem.
Any help please? Sorry if this is wrong to ask in this thread
Thanks.

Depending on your lathe and how much you want to have nice parts...investing in indexable inserts like in the link below. You need the biggest tool holders you can fit and shortest overhangs on the material and tooling...which means you will be working extremely close to the spinning chuck. Use either flood cooling or no cooling at all as spot cooling carbide and inserts will cause thermal stress and cracking. Remember SS work hardens on the surface when cutting...so if your cutter isnt going below that layer your tooling will see some intense heat...thats where the TiCN, Al2O3, TiN coated carbide comes in handy. If going the HSS route keep the tooling sharp with large clearance and rake angles....and use a finishing stone or diamond stick to polish the cutting faces. Finish your part up spinning high speed with a fine emery cloth if needed.

Indexable Turning Inserts | MSCDirect.com


Oh yeah...and if you really must use the HF tooling...be sure to grind the gobs of paint off of the mounting surfaces...to a lathe its like a cushion that adds to instability.

 

[Zen~]

For stainless, you need to work short and tight... Stainless is a BEAR to turn... when I have to do it, I use HSS for hogging at lower speed than you think you need and shallower cuts than you want to do. For finishing I use the index-ables like Nicotime referenced.

The comment he made about grinding the paint of the HF tooling is on the money... the slightest amount of that paint can cause a chatter like you would not believe...

 

[nicotime]

Thats what I was thinking with the inserts also Zen...get a general use insert and use one side for roughing and one for finishing...then as the roughing side get too worn...use the finishing for roughing and the last new side for finishing...and so on. They may seem like a lot of money but if you take care of them they will last a long time. The down side is you need a different holder for each type insert...but with the triangle or 35° diamond shape you can do a lot of different profiles. Then again...you can create any shape/size cutter you want with HSS....me hates grinding though!! I always made sure I had 10 of every shape..and ya cant beat the threading inserts!! lol

 

[lexi60]

Tools such as this set?
Or just a single?
Could either of these be used to "bore" the inside?
Thank you guys for the suggestions.

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[Zen~]

Lexi, those Chinese indexables are affordable, but they just don't hold up too well... you are FAR better off in the long run going with quality tool holders from Sandvik or Kennametal... you will pay more up front, for sure, but the results will be well worth the extra dollars, and the inserts will last in some cases ten times as long.

Sift through this site here: Sandvik Coromant - Global site

@Nicotime... DUDE... that's a LOT of dough there! I have a pretty good selection but holy bejeebus, you have INVENTORY!

 

[nicotime]

Yep like that. You would need a boring bar for that...I dont think you could get the angles you need with those....something like these....

 

[nicotime]

Lexi, those Chinese indexables are affordable, but they just don't hold up too well... you are FAR better off in the long run going with quality tool holders from Sandvik or Kennametal... you will pay more up front, for sure, but the results will be well worth the extra dollars, and the inserts will last in some cases ten times as long.

Sift through this site here: Sandvik Coromant - Global site

@Nicotime... DUDE... that's a LOT of dough there! I have a pretty good selection but holy bejeebus, you have INVENTORY!

LOL...I was the CNC group supervisor/machinist...I didnt pay...I just ordered!! No this is not my personal stash...I was forcefully retired 5 years ago unfortunately.

 

[lorderos33]

LOL...I was the CNC group supervisor/machinist...I didnt pay...I just ordered!! No this is not my personal stash...I was forcefully retired 5 years ago unfortunately.

Sounds like we could all benefit from picking your brain then . You must have some serious experience under your belt. Far more than a hobbyist like me anyway

 

[MadmanMacguyver]

Drool.........................

looks like one of the shelves of my grandfathers toolshop

 

[2fat]

i buy from youus $45.00 + shipping to singapore