What kind of wire and where can I get it locally?
Edit : I mean the actual electric wire not the kanthal.
Edit : I mean the actual electric wire not the kanthal.
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Scubagen Mods
- Thread starter UA72Riddle
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Yeah!
Solder shim it is!
Good analogy.
I'm terribly visual, took it a bit to sink in from the words.... No picture????
I have to remove the CE2 from my scubagen...
The solder shim on the CE2 is tight...
I didn't think it would be this tight!
The solder shim on the CE2 is tight...
I didn't think it would be this tight!
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I was able to get the CE2 out...
I screwed it onto an ego battery and bent it to one side.
However, it broke the CE2.
I screwed it onto an ego battery and bent it to one side.
However, it broke the CE2.
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I'm using a "Spring Pin" to secure the negative terminal to the Scubagen body.
I had to grind down one end of the Spring Pin at least 3/32" or 0.09375".
I pressed the side of the the spring pin that I didn't grind into the negative hole on the Scubagen.
I tinned the inside of the sping pin and then tinned the nail.
I pressed the nail into the sping pin while applying a little heat to melt the solder.
Once the solder started to melted and the nail slid into the spring pin I removed the heat and had to hold tension on the nail to ensure that the spring remained slightly compressed untill the solder hardend.
I show a piece of 32 AWG Kanthal secured to the negative post.
Please note:
The spring in this picture was compressed to tight and I had to loosen it up.
Edit to add;
This would have to be the first step of the build, as you may have to apply some heat to the main body of the Scubagenv3.
I used a mini butane torch to heat it. I have not tried doing it with just a soldering iron.
I had to grind down one end of the Spring Pin at least 3/32" or 0.09375".
I pressed the side of the the spring pin that I didn't grind into the negative hole on the Scubagen.
I tinned the inside of the sping pin and then tinned the nail.
I pressed the nail into the sping pin while applying a little heat to melt the solder.
Once the solder started to melted and the nail slid into the spring pin I removed the heat and had to hold tension on the nail to ensure that the spring remained slightly compressed untill the solder hardend.
I show a piece of 32 AWG Kanthal secured to the negative post.
Please note:
The spring in this picture was compressed to tight and I had to loosen it up.
Edit to add;
This would have to be the first step of the build, as you may have to apply some heat to the main body of the Scubagenv3.
I used a mini butane torch to heat it. I have not tried doing it with just a soldering iron.
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ok swapped out the oring on my drip tip to a 5/16 x 3/16 x 1/16 and it fits tight as all can be. almost too tight. you could hang the whole thing from your mouth tight. took a little juice makes it go easier and it will prolly break in but now the dt doesn't fit anything else lol
Works like a charm now you got the sgv3 why would you need it to fit anything but that.....
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My buddy did the solder shim and the early reports are good. Hopefully I can make it over there later tonight, we have our workshop over at his place.
I want to tap that hole, does anyone see a reason why I shouldn't tap it so I can just take my threaded piece and screw right into it ?
Could somebody tell me what kind of wire and solder I should get , say maybe from radio shack?
YAY... I got mine today!
OK, now seriously... does anybody want to sell me enough SS mesh and Poly tubing to put this together? I have everything else, but... I kinda forgot it would be here this soon!
Anybody? PM me if you can help!
OK, now seriously... does anybody want to sell me enough SS mesh and Poly tubing to put this together? I have everything else, but... I kinda forgot it would be here this soon!
Anybody? PM me if you can help!
Ok, I figured something out that will make everyone's life ALOT easier. With the summer's heat, these o-rings are going to be a little loose on the bodies. Put the body with the o-rings attached into the freezer for about 20 minutes. O-ring contracts, poly tubing slides on like BUTTEH.
Also, for cutting the tubing I put a 1/2" deep socket inside the poly to stabilize the cut.
Also, for cutting the tubing I put a 1/2" deep socket inside the poly to stabilize the cut.
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Ok....I will now admit after 3 hours of torturing all these wonderfull items sitting in front of me I AM NOT a Modder. I do however have one idea to share. I was unable to find any M1.6 nuts and my cartos didn't appear to be quite like the ones in the 12 step building plan. So I started thinking outside the box. I think that the back used for pierced earring posts might be a much easier replacement for the beveled nuts or beveled cartos. You can actually pry the top off them and it is a lot like a tiny beveled washer and the nail fits snuggly through the hole. You can also purchase a bag of 16 for about $ 1.50
Sry been in and out but Solder from rat shack .032'' 96/4 silver-bearing comes in a small tube for a few bucks ..... Wire would say like 22-18 gauge..... That should get you going.....
Thanks guys , thats exactly what i picked up. Im trying the freezer idea right now , I cannot get the poly over the body!
Left it in the freezer about 30 minutes and its still a no go. Has anybody else had any success and how did you do it?
Did you lube the O rings and inside of the tube with e-juice first? that should help.
Did you bevel the inside of the poly? It didn't go in for me until I got the bevel exactly 45 degrees, even then it was hard so I tried the freezer.
Just to let you guys know, these bic pens I got also seem to work:
the bevel i got isnt 45 its like a half circle. Bout to run to lowes and pick one up. I hope that fixes my problem!!!
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