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UA72Riddle

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Just make sure your wire is long enough. If not, it will feel like you are trying to pull the connector through the tube...impossible.

As for the odds of success....well, that will vary. If 100 people (just saying for demonstration purposes) got in....out of that maybe 5% will get the parts and say....."what the :censored: was I thinking?"

25% will give up after a few tries....:mad:

Another 30% will get it together, but will not get good results for one reason or another, and will live on the thread trying to trouble shoot. :facepalm:

20% will have it together and working...just maybe not with perfect results.....but just don't know it can be better...

10% will have it right the first time, and loving every minute of it and proud to show it off....

And the last 10%.......they know what they are doing, have no troubles or problems at all.......and just sit back and enjoy the show without ever saying a word! :laugh:
 

PKZap27

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BTW, my husband went to make my 2nd gen today & said that all of the 510 clearomizer connections were too loose. I told him that ya'll were saying sort of the same things........... The one I found that worked is one of the latest editions, only 2 thick wicks, with ceramic cup. I wish I would have kept the box so I could have told ya where it's from & exact edition.

I am now available for technical support, as my husband is beside me building solar mods :)

Solution for CE2's that are too small to press into the Scubagen body!
 

UA72Riddle

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Ok well you could if you drill a hole and rig something like this in the hole would have to find one that fits the hole snug and cut the tip but would provide protection from short......Imho would not do it to mine lol.....Thats if you mean the + term?????
hammer_anchor_plastic_screw_plug_screw_plug_expansion_tube.jpg

Same concept as the bic pen....no?
 

bmwjen

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My thoughts........after I shoved the wick down further this morning......the hit is so smooth, the draw is so easy. It was definitely harder to hit last night when I made my video at 1am. I need the perfect mod for this. I'm thinking 1/2 the length of the buzz (about the size of a mini xhaler), but with longer battery life, in stainless steel, 3.7V would be fine, but i'd prefer that it could go up to 5V. The SSGGTS would work when I make it smaller, but then again i'd have shorter battery life.
 
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PKZap27

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PKZ how in the heck are you getting the nail and the wire in the one metal tube then in the plastic tube, I can not get the wire and the nail in the metal tube for the life of me what is the deal with this, help ?

I just followed Dan's instructions...

Make sure the wire is a little bit long....

Make sure you cut the tube short enough...

What are you having trouble with, for this step?
 

asdaq

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Glad to see everyone is having fun building. :) i rather wish I was getting in on this too, but oh well. One thing for sure, a genisis on a regulated or boosted device gives a much more stable vape than a 3.7 v. Just saying. Enjoy people and welcome to better vaping. :D
sent from my HTC genisis using Tapatalk
 

theECB

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Hey all, had a heck of a time with this build. But I am ready to show the results. I still need to go back and re-do the negative post. I just couldn't get the darn post to stick in there correctly. Also had a heck of a time getting the mesh rolled correctly without kinking the loop part of it. I find a bic lighter is best for oxidation. I was originally using a Zippo.

Also, the mod is an ironwood mod with a touch switch (thanks Raidy) and runs an 18350 battery. I didn't know the resistance on the kanthal so just had to play around with it.

Drip tip doesn't fit tight, so I shimmed it with tissue paper for the video. I notice I get better vapor with a longer drip tip. Was using a stainless steel Super T shortie and prefer the longer tip.

Anyway, quick video.



Vapor is hot, and would like thicker smoke. My Mesh roll is 15mm wide. Will post another video then I get this thing dialed in a little better. Also, I am working on a VV mod since I also believe the stable output will make this an easier task.

Overall, very pleased! Thanks Dan (and family) for making this possible.
 

Scubabatdan

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nice job.
if the drip tips are loose, you can try using the thread trick to "fatten" the o-ring up.

I'm still on the hunt for 22mmx1.6mm borosilicate tube (pyrex).

I have been working on cutting pyrex tubing. I had a 3rd failed attempt last night. got it all cut and sanded and during instalation it cracked. I have been using a dremel cutting wheel and submersing the pyrex in water during the scoring process. The water helps to dampen the vibrations and cracks that occur during cutting. I almost have it perfected. The trick is getting a clean cut and then wet sanding the end smooth. A chip will cause the tubing to crack. Will try again and post my results. But the tubing I recieved fits perfect for the scubagen. Just got to get it cut. LOL
Dan
 

Scubabatdan

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Also I found another trick on the poly tubing, after you bevel it with the grinding tip to make the 45 degree bevel. The poly tubeing might melt and cause a ridge on the inside at the bottom of the bevel. I was haveing a heck of a time getting the tubing on. When I ran my finger inside the tube I found the ridge. I removed the ridge with an xacto knife and now it slides into place very easily.
Hope this helps,
Dan
 
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