Scubagen Mods

[PKZap27]

Create a Solder Shim...

Coat the knurled part of the CE2 with some of the Ruby Flux.

Heat this area of the CE2 with a soldering iron and add a thin layer of lead free silver solder (4% silver) over the entire knurled part of the CE2.

File or sand if needed, I didn't have to do this part.

Press CE2 into Scubagen body.

Done!



Keep Moving Forward!

 

[jimbalny]

My order from mcmaster carr shipped ups ground from jersey, checked the order page it said nothing about shipping cost, should it after its shipped?

 

[PKZap27]

My order from mcmaster carr shipped ups ground from jersey, checked the order page it said nothing about shipping cost, should it after its shipped?

You will get an e-mail from them 2 days after you placed you order.

The CC/Check Card charge will hit 2 days after.

It is usually ~$4.85 for shipping plus + state tax.

If you ordered the polycarbonate tubing in a length greater than 2 feet long, they charge an additional $7.00 handling fee. It is a UPS No Conveyor Fee. Meaning the cardboard packaging tube can't fit on the UPS conveyor and they hit you up for the addition $7.00 fee.

Order the tubing in lengths less than 2 feet to avoid this additional $7.00 handling fee.

 

[classwife]

Please....coil shorting on the wick...a reason for not much vapor ?? What should I look for to remedy ? Thank you.


Edit: Only the drip tip that came in mine from Dan fits...larger OD 0-rings did the trick to make another tip fit !

 

[harmonic]

in a pinch a 20ml Ideal Instruments brand syringe fits nicely for the tube just a lil thin- i dont have any orings yet but am getting out this morning so i will see how it fits after...
also fyi all my drip tips are loose too

 

[goat29]

when you burn ss wick use something like a bic lighter, you need a dirty flame to oxidize wick, a hot torch would be used to make wick hard for a top tank. according to german forum

 

[PKZap27]

Please....coil shorting on the wick...a reason for not much vapor ?? What should I look for to remedy ? Thank you.


Edit: Only the drip tip that came in mine from Dan fits...larger OD 0-rings did the trick to make another tip fit !

Classy!

In Dan's instructions he gives information on how to adjust the coil for the Genisis atty.

See step #11.

Download Dan's instructions from the following link.

https://www.filesanywhere.com/fs/v.aspx?v=8a6c668c606270a971a0

 

[classwife]

Thank you PK....gonna read !

You are awesome ! You always know where everything is !!!

 

[PKZap27]

Thank you PK....gonna read !

You are awesome ! You always know where everything is !!!

Any time Classy!

You are awesomer!

 

[classwife]

...out to the garage (dark) with a toothpick !

 

[classwife]

Ok...big improvement ! Probably twice what I had on vapor. Thank you !

 

[Turbo]

Coat the knurled part of the CE2 with some of the Ruby Flux.

Heat this area of the CE2 with a soldering iron and add a thin layer of lead free silver solder (4% silver) over the entire knurled part of the CE2.

File or sand if needed, I didn't have to do this part.

Press CE2 into Scubagen body.

Done!



Keep Moving Forward!

Thanks, we'll give that a go. We did try a steel CE2 and it suffered the same tolerance issues. I knew their tolerances were different but would've guessed I'd found one to work w/ all the revisions I have...lol

 

[PKZap27]

Thanks, we'll give that a go. We did try a steel CE2 and it suffered the same tolerance issues. I knew their tolerances were different but would've guessed I'd found one to work w/ all the revisions I have...lol

Same here, none of my CE2's worked either.

It may have been an earlier Rev CE2 that works, as I only have steel Rev 4 and newer CE2's, and only regular Rev 4 and newer CE2 clearomizers.

A layer of solder on the knurled area of the CE2 works great!

Because you have to maintain continuity, a bonding material would not be a good choice, unless it was one that was conductive. However, a conductive bonding material may add resistance as well.

 

[Turbo]

Same here, none of my CE2's worked either.

It may have been an earlier Rev CE2 that works, as I only have Rev 4 and newer CE2's.

The Soldering of the Knurled area on the CE2 works Great.

You have to maintain continuity anyway.

A bonding material would not be a good choice, unless it was one that was conductive. However, a conductive bonding material may add resistance as well.

Yeah, it could've been an earlier revision and then there's US company specs that differ from each other. That equals a tolerance nightmare. He said he got his from madvapes and I mostly purchased direct or from GotVapes. The solder idea sounds good. We were discussing the conductive/resistance issue and I think JB Weld was used on earlier Genisis/510 connections. I never read those posts much since my Genisis uses a batt plate.

So, I may try a couple more early revisions or just go the solder route. Thanks again.

 

[mj64]

I think the solder makes sense. Pkzap did u remove the inner tube and insulator before soldering?

 

[PKZap27]

I think the solder makes sense. Pkzap did u remove the inner tube and insulator before soldering?

Short Answer = No!

I used a regular CE2, meaning it was not an XL.

I didn't bother cutting the CE2 tube either, the regular CE2 tube is short enough and I covered it in shrink wrap. The CE2 tube had some solder on it, so it makes it easy to just add flux and to solder the tinned wire right to the existing solder that is already on the CE2 tube.

You really don't have to heat up the knurled part of the CE2 that much to add the thin layer of solder to it.

I checked the finished CE2 with a meter to make sure I didn't over heat the seal that is inside of the CE2, which could have caused a short. All is good, no short.

It is a good idea to check your work with a meter as you go along. It sucks when you get it all together and you have to re do it because you didn't check you work.

It really worked out great doing it this way. The little bit of excess solder was scraped away when I pressed it in with a vice and I just wiped away the excess scraped solder with my finger.

It appears to be a tight enough fit and I'm hoping it will hold up under use. I believe it will.

It also makes it serviceable, as it is not permanent, like a bonding material would be.

PKZ

 

[mj64]

Short Answer = No!

I used a regular CE2, meaning it was not an XL.

I didn't bother cutting the CE2 tube either, the regular CE2 tube is short enough and I covered it in shrink wrap. The CE2 tube had some solder on it, so it makes it easy to just solder the wire right to the existing solder that is already on the CE2 tube.

You really don't have to heat up the knurled part of the CE2 that much to add the thin layer of solder to it.

I checked the finished CE2 with a meter to make sure I didn't over heat the seal that is inside of the CE2, which could have caused a short. All is good, no short.

It is a good idea to check your work with a meter as you go along. It sucks when you get it all together and you have to re do it because you didn't check you work.

It really worked out great doing it this way. The little bit of excess solder was scraped away when I pressed it in with a vice and I just wiped away the excess scraped solder with my finger.

It appears to be a tight enough fit and I'm hoping it will hold up under use. I believe it will.

It also makes it serviceable, as it is not permanent, like a bonding material would be.

I'm with you now, so its basically a solder shim, you didn't try to 'join' the CE2 and SGEN body.....

 

[Turbo]

I'm pretty sure it's a solder shim. To stick to the scubagen body it would have to be brazed being ss.

 

[PKZap27]

Yeah!

Solder shim it is!

Good analogy.

 

[Dalton63841]

Just got my Scubagen body. Now the wait for parts...