Scubagen Mods
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For those that were not part of the original genisis builds....it was suggested by Raidy, that you shouldn't inhale for the first 30 puffs or so. I have several of these attys, and once the kanthal is coated...the harshness goes away and it's a very nice cool, smooth vape with plenty of vapor.
Has everyone been putting a couple of drops on the wick and lighting it with a lighter, allowing it to burn off?
Edit: guess I should say I only run a 3.7 with 3 wraps of kanthal....
Has everyone been putting a couple of drops on the wick and lighting it with a lighter, allowing it to burn off?
Edit: guess I should say I only run a 3.7 with 3 wraps of kanthal....
I seem to remember it being mentioned that the "sock" from a cartomizer could be used instead of oxidizing the SS mesh... Anything special that needs to be done in that situation?
Yer im using a sock from a carto, actually from a smokestik. Its great gunks up a fair bit though, but saves having to heat and dip the wicks, also it wicks that extra bit to. My current setup runs two stainless wicks that are both slipped inside the 'sock' and running on 3-4 coils at 6volts on the silver bullet.
Ok so I got mine built last night ! Tested it without the cap on and it makes tons of vapor. Put the cap on and tired to hit it and i can't even take a hit.
Don't know how to explain it but it's just like trying to suck on a solid piece of steel like something is clogged. Any ideas why this would happen? Maybe I clogged a vent hole? I have no idea ...
Don't know how to explain it but it's just like trying to suck on a solid piece of steel like something is clogged. Any ideas why this would happen? Maybe I clogged a vent hole? I have no idea ...
i think the airflow should be provided by the E2 batt/connector that you soldered you positive wire at. am I wrong guys?
ok i have a build tip. the connector should get done AFTER you do the postitive post. make the positive post with the wire trim to the right length solder on the connector, feed the post on the wire up through the middle of the sg3 and press in connector then install the post. i broke the wire and had to take out the batt connector like 5 times before i got the post just right might do it again even but i couldnt do it with the little wire hanging out the top of the body...
Sounds like you soldered the wire in the hole and closed the hole on the center battery connector. I would try using a paper clip and see if you can insert it through the battery connector center hole to verify that you are not blocked on the bottom. If the paper clip goes in and you are sure it is not blocked then look at the sides of the connector, you might have used one with out the air holes and when you screw it down you close off the airflow. If that is the case then use a 1/32 drill bit and make a hole (or two) in the side of the connector above the threads.
Fast check would be to remove it from your PV and see if you have air flow, if you do then it is probably the no hole connector, if you no change then the center hole is probably solder shut.
Dan
Ah I'm an idiot , I soldered the wire into the hole of the connector , lol.
LOL, someone did not follow the instruction
Slow down it is not a race.... HA! I win! hehehehe
Dan
LOL, someone did not follow the instruction
Slow down it is not a race.... HA! I win! hehehehe
Dan
I can't slow down any more, I don't even have a connector in yet! I haven't had time to devote to this so I haven't done anything but watch the postings... I do think that we need to start calling the 'oxidation' process the 'coating' or 'crusting' process instead though.....
i have the connector in, thats it. all i had was 16g and 28g wire, so i had to use 28g, should work though. didnt have any bad ce2s that were good, the tube was busted off the connector, so i ripped apart a burnt up atty, took out the center pin, soldered the wire in the hole, added a glob on the side, filed it down, then beat it in using the tube that was on the atty. marred the ring arond the connector a bit, but im sure thats the weak link here and will get replaced some day.
my o rings are too big by a 32nd, and it makes a huge differance. they dont seat in to the grooves. all i could find at HD and thought they may work, wrong
having issues with cutting the poly tube. my old tubing cutter is wobbly and i need to start with a tight cut to keep it from walking. its stressing the tube...
but taking my time, one lil step at a time...
my o rings are too big by a 32nd, and it makes a huge differance. they dont seat in to the grooves. all i could find at HD and thought they may work, wrong
having issues with cutting the poly tube. my old tubing cutter is wobbly and i need to start with a tight cut to keep it from walking. its stressing the tube...
but taking my time, one lil step at a time...
UhOh.... you soldered the wire in the HOLE? It should be soldered to the side of the hole to allow airflow...
Back up a step....
Dan
Harbor freight and most auto parts stores and any refrigeration or plumbing shop will likely have the proper o-rings for the job... don't get the wrong o-rings it will make it much harder to install and remove the tubes
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