I can answer on the cutting it down part... You will need to cut out a section of the tube in the bottom section. That obviously requires two cuts to be made. You need to be VERY tedious with the cutting part, because these cuts need to be perfect, straight through, no angle at all. After the cuts are made, smooth any burrs, but rough up the ends where the tube will come together. This gives the JB something to bond to.
Now, you will need to make a trip to the hardware store and pick up a COILED SPRING PIN. I don't remember the exact size, but you want one that requires a bit of pressure to get inside the tube section. Most hardware stores will refer to it as a Roll Pin. The roll pin holds the two sections together with a considerable amount of force, so no wiggle or movement, it keeps both peices perfectly straight, and the hollow center gives you a channel to feed the positive wire. Not to mention that JB is an insulator, so the roll pin provides a bridge for the ground.
Now cut down the roll pin to only .75" long. Force the roll pin into one section so that half the roll pin still sticks out. Now mix and apply the JB to the section with the roll pin stuck in it. DON'T get any inside the roll pin. Only put the JB where the 2 sections will contact, but don't worry if it is not perfect. Now force the other section on, forcing the exposed roll pin into the tube. Slide it all the way down till it meets with the other section. JB will get squeezed out from between the 2 sections, but thats okay. Wipe away the excess.
Now once that cures, put an abrasive buff on your dremel and buff away the excess JB, and clean it up.
Now you are free to assemble as usual, minding that the bottom section of PC tubing, as well as the wick, will be substantially shorter.
Thanks for posting this Dalton....as soon as I can find the nuts, I will be doing a shorty!