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UA72Riddle

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I can answer on the cutting it down part... You will need to cut out a section of the tube in the bottom section. That obviously requires two cuts to be made. You need to be VERY tedious with the cutting part, because these cuts need to be perfect, straight through, no angle at all. After the cuts are made, smooth any burrs, but rough up the ends where the tube will come together. This gives the JB something to bond to.

Now, you will need to make a trip to the hardware store and pick up a COILED SPRING PIN. I don't remember the exact size, but you want one that requires a bit of pressure to get inside the tube section. Most hardware stores will refer to it as a Roll Pin. The roll pin holds the two sections together with a considerable amount of force, so no wiggle or movement, it keeps both peices perfectly straight, and the hollow center gives you a channel to feed the positive wire. Not to mention that JB is an insulator, so the roll pin provides a bridge for the ground.

Now cut down the roll pin to only .75" long. Force the roll pin into one section so that half the roll pin still sticks out. Now mix and apply the JB to the section with the roll pin stuck in it. DON'T get any inside the roll pin. Only put the JB where the 2 sections will contact, but don't worry if it is not perfect. Now force the other section on, forcing the exposed roll pin into the tube. Slide it all the way down till it meets with the other section. JB will get squeezed out from between the 2 sections, but thats okay. Wipe away the excess.

Now once that cures, put an abrasive buff on your dremel and buff away the excess JB, and clean it up.

Now you are free to assemble as usual, minding that the bottom section of PC tubing, as well as the wick, will be substantially shorter.

Thanks for posting this Dalton....as soon as I can find the nuts, I will be doing a shorty!
 

Dalton63841

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What size pins did you order? If you got a tight fit that will be what I want. But, I am a welder by trade....and a supervisor on the job I am on.....so I may just weld mine since I have the equipment to do so.....

If you have the stuff to properly weld that would be highly suggested. You will still need something that will hold the peices perfectly straight while you weld. I didn't get a look at the size of the pin, as I searched through a small bin to find one. Just take the scubagen with you to check for size. It needs to be BARELY bigger than the hole it's being put into. That provides the compression required to hold everything stiff.
 

Zen~

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I've found that if the upper tube is removed and you keep firing it you get flame – put the top on and it doesn’t - More oxygen? That’s my guess. I fired that one too long and the coil got way too hot - sacrificed for a pic.

View attachment 50054

Teach, if that's what I think I'm seeing, I would hesitate to vape that... It looks to me like you made yours out of acetal rod, aka delrin... I think whats happening is the coil gets really hot and the plastic is outgassing and yep, it burns the gas... I have a delrin scubagen right here that exhibits the same phenomena and im thinking it might not be the healthiest thing to vape.
 

mj64

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Teach, if that's what I think I'm seeing, I would hesitate to vape that... It looks to me like you made yours out of acetal rod, aka delrin... I think whats happening is the coil gets really hot and the plastic is outgassing and yep, it burns the gas... I have a delrin scubagen right here that exhibits the same phenomena and im thinking it might not be the healthiest thing to vape.

I don't think its plastic fumes, though it could be. I think all the ones that are doing this are a little bit off. I have 1 scubagen that I can fire repeatedly just as long as I want with the top off. That one vapes perfect. And then I have the FireGen. I'm still troubleshooting but I think its a) a short or b) the wire is not connected to the posts tightly enough. My ohmmeter isn't working so I have to get a new one to continue working on it. I don't think it is simply overvoltage as I'm at 4V with 5 wraps, same as I'm running the good one.

There are 2 differences in my setups that I know for sure. Firegen is running 70% VG, non-FireGen 30% VG. non-Firegen, springs and thus connections are very tight, FireGen, springs are not very tight. I'll work to bring them closer to the same setup and see what happens after I get some ohms readings.
 

bmwjen

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I had a firegen the first night of the build. I think my positive was touching the mesh/kanthol wraps. So, I pushed the positive lead over a little. It's not a firegen anymore, & it works fine. I don't know if that was the fix or not. I just know that I was really scared when I first saw it flaming.

Anyway, my divorce will be final soon.......so I won't be participating in any of these hectic mod building things anymore which is probably the most sad part of my divorce. I'm thinking we'll still be married when fender's gen stuff arrives, so at least that will get built. At least i've made a few modder friends & have learned a few things along the way. Now I just need to buy my own solder & dremel stuff. (especially for when the positive wire comes off on the Infinity)
 

mj64

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Hi all, only thing i'm missing is the springs, anybody have any extras that you can spare
i'll buy them from u, kind of hard for me to spend $25.00 since money is kind of hard to come by now
i'll paypal u the money for springs and shipping, thanks Jorge

You didn't get springs in a little baggie with your Scubagen? PM me with how many you need and I'll try to help you out.
 

Scubabatdan

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YAY! I got my vented SS screws in, and my taps for the 4-40 and 2-56 threads. Wont be long now :) Oh I also found and got in SS springs and SS cup washers that fit the 2-56 screws from mcmaster. So no soldering, just screw it in to the tension you want. I am busy re-turning the new parts to match the new design, got the hard one done last night (the cup) that inside oring was a PITA LOL, but got all the measuments done and everything fits perfsctly so far. Should be able to assemble this weekend.
Dan
 

Dalton63841

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YAY! I got my vented SS screws in, and my taps for the 4-40 and 2-56 threads. Wont be long now :) Oh I also found and got in SS springs and SS cup washers that fit the 2-56 screws from mcmaster. So no soldering, just screw it in to the tension you want. I am busy re-turning the new parts to match the new design, got the hard one done last night (the cup) that inside oring was a PITA LOL, but got all the measuments done and everything fits perfsctly so far. Should be able to assemble this weekend.
Dan

Can't wait to see this beast(the DSU, not you) in action!
 

l3oertjie

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Dan,

I had quite an interesting experience with the gennie wick. I decided to roll a mesh very thin and only one layer thick. 0.75mm diameter with a single layer of S/S. Was not easy. Anyway, I bent in a U shape almost like your twisted coil. The capillary seems to work much better and off course you can get a whole lot more turns of nichrome / kanthral around it for your ohms. So far I'm impressed with the result. Good clean taste. Good TH. Lots of smoke. (No flames yet though)....
 

PKZap27

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YAY! I got my vented SS screws in, and my taps for the 4-40 and 2-56 threads. Wont be long now :) Oh I also found and got in SS springs and SS cup washers that fit the 2-56 screws from mcmaster. So no soldering, just screw it in to the tension you want. I am busy re-turning the new parts to match the new design, got the hard one done last night (the cup) that inside oring was a PITA LOL, but got all the measuments done and everything fits perfsctly so far. Should be able to assemble this weekend.
Dan

Dan,

When you get some time can you post the McMaster-Carr part numbers for the SS springs, SS cup washers & 2-56 screws.

Thank you!
 

raceengine

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very interesting indeed. Will try it out. :thumb:

Dan,

I had quite an interesting experience with the gennie wick. I decided to roll a mesh very thin and only one layer thick. 0.75mm diameter with a single layer of S/S. Was not easy. Anyway, I bent in a U shape almost like your twisted coil. The capillary seems to work much better and off course you can get a whole lot more turns of nichrome / kanthral around it for your ohms. So far I'm impressed with the result. Good clean taste. Good TH. Lots of smoke. (No flames yet though)....
 

Scubabatdan

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Dan,

When you get some time can you post the McMaster-Carr part numbers for the SS springs, SS cup washers & 2-56 screws.

Thank you!

Here ya go:
Mcmaster Order.jpg
Dan
 
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