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urquidezj

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On a mini don. I did a 1mm hole might need a bit bigger flavor is on, vapor is kind of there and throat hit is deffinetly there
IMAG0737.jpg
 

asdaq

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Looking good urq, but if you want to tame the TH and get more vapor then the hole should be lower. It relates to raidy's words on the visible and visible portions of vapor (TH being in the non visible part) Also keep in mind he is a huge fan of TH, not so much vapor.

We also had similar issues with the mini-hybrid.
 

kenetix

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Quote from zen.

" NEVER EVER EVER will I make a dual coil version...

Dual Coils are DANGEROUS beyond all belief, and even DC cartos a disaster waiting to happen.

I feel this is one area of safety has has not been adequately addressed, and in many ways I believe it may be the root cause of the increasing number of battery explosion accidents.

I have seen posts about Battery Safety and Tube Mod safety, but a large contributing factor which will rapidly compound the issue is "Load" safety.

A Little history which helps to demonstrate my point:

A little over 15 months ago, the introduction ofLow Resistance cartomizers and atomizers occurred, and with that introduction, eCigs became a LOT less safe. Suddenly the old reliable eGos and 510s started experiencing failures that were not common before the intoduction of lower resistance loads... the PVs failed because the load was too great, causing the circuitry in these PVs to fail. These failures protected the users, in many cases, against their will.

The reason for the failure is because the Load Resistance dictates how much current will be delivered to atomizer/cartomizer.

This has driven many eCig users away from electronic and regulated eCigs into the realm of mechanical Mods with batteries that will deliver the current needed to utilize these lower resistance loads. As we all know, a single battery PV with an LR load is relatively safe, but the quest for higher performance has led us down a path into areas that are far more disconcerting.

A little less than a year ago, Dual Coil cartomizers appeared on the scene and with them, an entirely new series of safety issues. These loads not ONLY have a low resistance, but they have the capacity to sink a HUGE amount of current into them without failing. This is because each coil of the load has the capacity to handle DOUBLE the voltage, or more, than a single coil of the same aggregate resistance. In other words, a 1.5 Ohm single coil carto handles far less power than a 1.5 Ohm Dual coil, due to the dual coil have TWO 3 Ohm coils in parallel....

To a battery with a low current delivery capability, A Dual Coil Carto represents a HOSTILE load, attempting to pull far more current from the battery thanitcan safely deliver.

These new cartomizers have taken the vaping community by a storm. Suddenly, the Good Old Standard, the ProVari is sending error messages to it's users, and they have demanded a Higher Current delivery version... The PV is PROTECTING itself from this hostile load, and the end users are saying "NO WAY... I need more current"

This has driven even MORE members of the vaping community to the realm of mechanical PVs, but now with stacked batteries because these Cartomizers perform better at these higher voltages...

And the most likely battery to stack in a metal tube designed for an 18650?

Yep... the readilly available, and potentially lethal 16340 (Aka CR123a). Unfortunately there are a variety of Low C versions of these batteries on the market at bargain basement prices.

BOOM

I believe that we have only seen the tip of the iceberg with this issue, and the warnings issued thatI have seen have fail to mention that a battery, in all likelihood WILL NOT fail unless there is a load attached to it, and the size of that load can really matter.

I believe that the proliferation of Dual coil, and now Triple coil cartos is the tipping point that is going to set off an epidemic of these devastating failures.As the size of the load increases, the danger increases exponentially! The same is true for dual coils in a Genesis Atty

It's true that cheap batteries stacked in an unvented PV is a recipe for disaster... but the risk increases by a huge margin once the hostile load of a dual coil load is introduced to the equation.

It's true that single cell and High C batteries are much safer... but the introduction of a second coil is flirting with disaster"

Makes a lot of sense

I remember when I was a kid I took a bread twist tie stripped off the plastic coating and stuck it to the top of a 9v battery. It glowed red hot and I grabbed it with my fingers to get it off and burnt the heck out of my fingers. We are basically doing the same thing here with vaping. Releasing the energy of the battery through a small wire. Kallies Kustoms took an 18650 and twisted the wires together on the ends to failure. We just added protection in between the battery and atty. I think alot of people take everyday hazards for granted that nothing will happen to them.
 

bstedh

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I believe you want the hole as close to the bottom wrap of the coil as you cang get it without allowin condensatet to leak out.

Also depending on the distance between the Wick and wall you may want to try a tube to direct the air more directly onto the wick.

Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
 

craftmath

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How are you all cleaning the scubagens? Is it ok to soak the entire thing in water like you do a cartomizer? I just got a used one today and want to do a thorough cleaning, but haven't found any lit about it yet. It smells of old juice and the old orings have some gunk underneath them so it needs it. Just wondering about cleaning the stainless steel body with the wiring running through the center. Thanks!
 

UA72Riddle

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Where_is_the_best_place_to_buy_mesh_and_kanthol?

Just_got_my_scubagen_v3_but_the_supplied_mesh_is_too_short.

TIA!

For Kanthal...you can get it from eBay.

For mesh...I go through themeshcompany.com. 400 superfine SS mesh.

Let me know if any of these links don't work. And for the mesh...some like to use 325 mesh for thicker juice, but I run 80-90% VG with no problems using 400.
 

UA72Riddle

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How are you all cleaning the scubagens? Is it ok to soak the entire thing in water like you do a cartomizer? I just got a used one today and want to do a thorough cleaning, but haven't found any lit about it yet. It smells of old juice and the old orings have some gunk underneath them so it needs it. Just wondering about cleaning the stainless steel body with the wiring running through the center. Thanks!

Soaking it in boiling water works well for it. There shouldn't be anything the water can hurt..but just make sure it's dry before you put it on your mod. :)
 

subver

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So I got a scubagenv3 from the classifieds, woohoo! (in the mail... can't wait to get it!!)
Anyway, it seems like the Provari handles shorts really well, and I've read of other batteries getting fried from shorts. I'm definitely going to oxidize the mesh very thoroughly and carefully, but what is the deal with shorts?
How does it harm the battery?
Does the Provari have protection against this?

Oh, and also, can you clean and reuse SS Mesh wicks, or does it degrade over time with the heat?
 
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bstedh

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The only thing I do to clean mine is to dry burn all the crud off. This also lets you see if you are still getting an even glow across the entire coil. If only part of the coil is lighting up you have a short on the mesh and need to move your coils around a little until you get an even glow again.

If only a portion of the coil is glowing indicating a short at the point it stops glowing you have a low ohm situation which means high current draw on the battery/mod. This is what can kill some cheaper components unless they have built in over current protection.
 

groundedcontrol

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Hi, New REOnaut here. I'm hunting the forums for a rumored rebuildable atomizer that will work with my Reo Grand. I followed some links through the labyrinth that this forum is for someone new, and found myself here. I hear there's some scubagen mod in the works for this purpose, and while I suspect I might be in the wrong thread I am just leaving a note here asking for direction. Are these rebuildable atomizers ready? Are they still being developed? do they have a name?

I'll continue the search on my own, but I'll be following this thread in the hopes someone can point me in the right direction. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
 
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