Searching Mech Mod (Parallel or Series)

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KenD

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I'm new to this as well but if you are running a parallel mech then you should be able to build down to around .15 ohm safely if you are running 30 amp batteries correct. Technically I think you could go down to .1 but that would really give you no margin for error
The problem is that no resistance reader is absolutely accurate at such low resistances, and inaccuracies get worse the lower you go. That 0.15 could easily be 0.1 or lower. There's simply no need to go that low. If you can't get a satisfying vape with a more reasonable resistance you're doing something wrong.

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KenD

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I would think if you try on multiple readers you could get a pretty accurate reading. I check mine on at least 2 readers before I throw it on a mech
That will not help you get a perfectly accurate reading at such low resistances, and when going that low you need perfectly accurate readings. You simply won't be able to have a perfect reading when going that low.

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papergoblin

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I would think if you try on multiple readers you could get a pretty accurate reading. I check mine on at least 2 readers before I throw it on a mech

I have 3 meters, one cost over $200 that I used for a living (high voltage), all 3 read different. All meters have internal resistance that affect the display. Unless your meter was built and calibrated by a NASA engineer and used in a controlled environment, I wouldn't trust it that low (any of them).

Anyone wanting to go below .25 (possibly even that low) needs to just buy a VW mod and call it a day. Why run a mech that low, it's pointless. The batteries drain way to fast for any real amount of use.

If going parallel sure you'll get a little more vape time but still should stick to a .25 as a minimum build. If going series it'd be opposite, need to raise the build minimum, as you'd need to figure your amps using 8.4V not 4.2.

The only thing ever figured double on 2 battery mods is volts, the mah doesn't truly double and neither does the CDR. Then again people can do whatever they want, however they want, as long as it isn't around me. Especially after being told exactly what not to do.

NOTE: First part is to what I quoted, later is to op and whomever else feels the need to go super low for kicks. ;)
 

Baditude

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Anyone wanting to go below .25 (possibly even that low) needs to just buy a VW mod and call it a day. Why run a mech that low, it's pointless. The batteries drain way to fast for any real amount of use.

If going parallel sure you'll get a little more vape time but still should stick to a .25 as a minimum build. If going series it'd be opposite, need to raise the build minimum, as you'd need to figure your amps using 8.4V not 4.2.

The only thing ever figured double on 2 battery mods is volts, the mah doesn't truly double and neither does the CDR.
tenor.gif
 
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Ammonarrow

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I'm not quite sure what you are trying to say here? :unsure:

You can't double the amp limit with two batteries in a mech. In parallel circuit, the amp limit increases 1 1/2 times, not two times. In an ideal world, the amp would increase two times. However, in the practical world there is voltage drop and increased resistance in the wiring to consider. Experts say the rule of thumb is realize only a 1.5 time amp gain.

Please skip to 15:40 in this video explaining this concept of amp gain in a parellel circuit in a mod.


Just to point that out:
He is explaining, that the Cables and stuff have their own resistance, which ofc. Is true.
However, I have yet to see a mech mod that has cables in it. Those are contacts, which have a pretty low resistance on them (most effectively silver contacts to decrease voltage drop)
You (as far as I know) have either a hybrid connection (which then has even less resistance) or something like a little screw. Then you have the resistance of your Box, which is ideally made out of copper which has a very low resistance as well (or you have some bigger screws that reach to the bottom). I dont want to say that it really 50:50 out, and nit like double the amp limit, however you have very little limitations with direct contacts compared to wires. If you get what I mean.
 
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Ammonarrow

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I have 3 meters, one cost over $200 that I used for a living (high voltage), all 3 read different. All meters have internal resistance that affect the display. Unless your meter was built and calibrated by a NASA engineer and used in a controlled environment, I wouldn't trust it that low (any of them).

Anyone wanting to go below .25 (possibly even that low) needs to just buy a VW mod and call it a day. Why run a mech that low, it's pointless. The batteries drain way to fast for any real amount of use.

If going parallel sure you'll get a little more vape time but still should stick to a .25 as a minimum build. If going series it'd be opposite, need to raise the build minimum, as you'd need to figure your amps using 8.4V not 4.2.

The only thing ever figured double on 2 battery mods is volts, the mah doesn't truly double and neither does the CDR. Then again people can do whatever they want, however they want, as long as it isn't around me. Especially after being told exactly what not to do.

NOTE: First part is to what I quoted, later is to op and whomever else feels the need to go super low for kicks. ;)
Why should I figure out my Amps at 4.2 or 8.4 Volts? I would say that the battery doesnt go over 3.7 or 7.4 Volt under .4 Build anyway
 

Ammonarrow

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I'm new to this as well but if you are running a parallel mech then you should be able to build down to around .15 ohm safely if you are running 30 amp batteries correct. Technically I think you could go down to .1 but that would really give you no margin for error
I build at 0.09 with Tubes and I know what stuff to use and what to look for. I just want an enjoyable vape experience, and thats just what I get with those builds..
 

Ammonarrow

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Pulse ratings are useless for vaping unless you know ALL of the parameters used to establish the rating.

Not only are your resistances dangerously low you will have twice the damage when two batteries violently release their energy.
You have to really know one thing, the temp of you battery.
That should not in any case exceed 80°C, cause this might then damage the venting seal. You wont reach 80°C cause then your tube would get really hot. However, there are some tests that even if you shorten out a VTC5A it wont vent, cause it shuts down by itself once its too hot.
 

Ammonarrow

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Look, you're free to exceed the cdr of batteries as well, but please don't fool yourself into thinking it's safe.

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@Ammonarrow, you still have a lot to learn buddy. If you need to go that low to get a satisfying vape - you are doing something wrong and are risking your face because of it.
Then tell me please what I am doing wrong.
 

Ammonarrow

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So you have so much experience running a mech mod unsafely that you want to find out what you can do to make it even more unsafe?

This is not a rhetorical or sarcastic question.... :(

Anna
What do you consider safe? Everyone makes different amp limits... Do you go with the middle? Or the lowest out of all of the ratings?
 

Baditude

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Why should I figure out my Amps at 4.2 or 8.4 Volts? I would say that the battery doesnt go over 3.7 or 7.4 Volt under .4 Build anyway
You're pretty much revealing just how much you don't understand with your questions and comments.

Your not figuring out the amps or amp limit (continuous discharge rate) of your battery, you get that from the manufacturer or a reliable source like Battery Mooch. What you have to do is figure out the AMP DRAW of the coil to figure out if it is safe for your batteries. You have to do the math equation or use an Ohm's Law calculator, to figure that out. The voltage of the battery is part of that equation.

V / R = A (voltage devided by resistance = amp draw)

I don't believe you ever revealed specifically which batteries you are using.

I build at 0.09 with Tubes and I know what stuff to use and what to look for. I just want an enjoyable vape experience, and thats just what I get with those builds..
Everyone is free to decide what level of safety that they vape at. For the majority of people, especially novices such as yourself, 0.09 ohm is too low. You are way over the amp limit of one or two batteries in a mech mod.
You have to really know one thing, the temp of you battery.
That should not in any case exceed 80°C, cause this might then damage the venting seal. You wont reach 80°C cause then your tube would get really hot. However, there are some tests that even if you shorten out a VTC5A it wont vent, cause it shuts down by itself once its too hot.
May I ask how you are measuring the temperature of your batteries?

Any battery can vent once it has been misused. This is indeed a fact. Batteries are designed to vent gas to prevent the battery itself from exploding. So, once the battery does release gas, where is that gas going to go? If inside a metal tube without adequate ventilation to escape, it has no where to go and quickly accumulates inside the tube. The pressure can get intense, and eventually that enclosed metal tube becomes a pipe bomb.

 
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Ammonarrow

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You're pretty much revealing just how much you don't understand with your questions and comments.

Your not figuring out the amps or amp limit of your battery, you get that from the manufacturer or a reliable source like Battery Mooch. What you have to do is figure out the AMP DRAW of the coil to figure out if it is safe for your batteries. You have to do the math equation, ie with an Ohm's Law calculator, to figure that out. The voltage of the battery is part of that equation.


Everyone is free to decide what level of safety that they vape at. For the majority of people, especially novices such as yourself, 0.09 ohm is too low. You are way over the amp limit of one or two batteries in a mech mod.

May I ask how you are measuring the temperature of your batteries?


So battery mooch is the way to go?
You brought up something good with the car, but 18650s are also used in like bigger masses of like 200 or more. And they are running at 20 amps or more in a closed environment the hole intire time, pulsing up to 30 Amps, so wouldnt that just destroy the batteries? No it doesnt. They are made for this kind of stuff... And they are also made for pulsing at higher Amps.

To the thingy with temp. I would say 80°C is pretty hot to the touch. And if they were that hot, that would also make the mod pretty warm (mods that I use are made of Copper (Kennedy Roundhouse for example)). And I sometimes (after vaping like 6-7 Times) I put out the battery and just touch it, but it never got uncomfortable to touch.
 

Baditude

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You brought up something good with the car, but 18650s are also used in like bigger masses of like 200 or more. And they are running at 20 amps or more in a closed environment the hole intire time, pulsing up to 30 Amps, so wouldnt that just destroy the batteries? No it doesnt. They are made for this kind of stuff... And they are also made for pulsing at higher Amps.
More misinformation on your part.

A large percentage of the 18650 cells are designed to be used in multi-cell configurations, i.e., battery packs in hybrid automobiles and cordless power tools. These battery packs have their own battery management system (BMS) that ensures configurable, consistent protection at desired current, voltage, and temperature settings to ensure long battery pack life and safety.

Your mechanical mod doesn't have any of that. The closest we vapors can get to that is by using a regulated mod.
201419111240649.jpg


As vapers, we are primarily using single battery cells alone by themselves, which often means we may be using these single cells at or above their recommended specifications for a single cell. This application is not the manufacturer's intended use for these cells. In fact, these manufacturers don't even like the fact that we are using their batteries in ecigs.

sony-battery-jpg.529035
 
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Baditude

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What do you consider safe? Everyone makes different amp limits... Do you go with the middle? Or the lowest out of all of the ratings?
You go by the true continuous discharge rating. Not the pulse rating, which is useless. I've presented that you can generally trust the amp ratings by Lg, Samsung, and Sony batteries.

On the other hand, the aftermarket batteries almost always exaggerate their amp rating, so someone like Battery Mooch is invaluable as a source of finding any battery's true continuous discharge rating from meticulous bench testing. List of Battery Tests

You know, all of this information was in the blog links that I have already posted in this thread, and you either didn't read it or chose to ignore it. I'm glad that you have stuck around and still asking questions. There may be hope for you yet. :)
 
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Ammonarrow

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M
Mooch has his own safety regulations. The only really dangerous thing is the temperature. So whats his max temperature?
 

Ammonarrow

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What is your recommendation as a build for like a kennedy tube?
 

papergoblin

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Why should I figure out my Amps at 4.2 or 8.4 Volts? I would say that the battery doesnt go over 3.7 or 7.4 Volt under .4 Build anyway

On a dual 18650 mod in parallel the battery voltage begins at 4.2 volts (at full charge). On a dual 18650 mod in series the volts are double 4.2x2= 8.4 volts.

Batteries will hang in the 3.7v range but always begin at 4.2v and you will get so many puffs at that level first. So you measure at the highest volt rating for safety reasons. So for safety in a series mod, one must count double voltage on a parallel do NOT double amp rating, only capacity (mah) which is run time.

Parallel: 2- 20A CDR 2500mah batteries should be looked at as 30A CDR MAX with 5000mah with start voltage of 4.2

Series: 2- 20A CDR 2500mah batteries should be looked at as 20A CDR MAX with 2500mah with start voltage of 8.4

I recommend going to youtube and watching Mooch episode 1 and 2, it will explain everything very simply, much easier than reading/writing it. He is the battery guru we all listen to for safety and such.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, your .4 has nothing to do with voltage, just in figuring amps. You have to use the correct voltage and resistance to find amps.
 
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