Sigelei Mechnical Mods

[techmatlock]

slightly off- topic, but have you used your AGI as a tank very much? if you fix the crappy spring connection in the center tube, it vapes equally as well as the dripper IMHO. I measured the resistance of the post with the original spring and it was nearly 1.2ohm loss. I used a small brass pin that fit tightly inside the spring, cut to fit and no loss of resistance through the center post. on my next tank fill I will take a pic or two. super easy fix for great results!!

Never used it as a tank. I bought it solely as a dripper until I knew I could replace the spring inside the tank shaft. If you try to run a sub ohm setup on it, the spring just turns black and collapses. I actually had a guy cut some brass tube for me since I don't really have anything to make a clean cut with. The tubes are being sent to me right now. Thanks for letting me know.

 

[bzmotoninja83]

Svd tubes fit the #20. Its a little loose but, its loose on the svd too. Now that we know that fits, we have a kick ext tube for 18650. It will not fit the #19 as its wayyyyy too small. Ive done my good deed for the day.

Sent from the 804

 

[NamVet68]

First round of Copper 19's shipped today. Very interested to see what these are actually made of, most importantly the pins. ....

From a conversation I read from a Co-op Q&A with a Sigelei Rep last week, the #19e is solid brass with COPPER pins, and a gold-plated spring (up top)...not positive about the lower spring, but the bottom magnet cup was brass in the regular #19s, so it should be the same...possibly copper also. I just received notification that mine shipped on Friday (Vaportek)....looking forward to getting my mitts on it

 

[astrocity]

I have an original (first shipment) #8 and the pin is too short, leaving me to unscrew the button a bit.

The button has exploded for lack of a better word on me a half dozen times while im OUTSIDE THE HOUSE. The entire purpose for buying these cheap mods to me, is something I can take out of the house, to the bar/club parties, friends for weekend parties and not fret if i drop it or lose it. Using your phones camera flash for a spring in the middle of a huge poolside party at 12:30 ain't cool. Not cool at all friends.

I've lost the spring, replaced with one from a ballpoint pen but it just doesn't work. Anyone have measurements or suggestions on where i could source something like this with reasonable cost in both dollars and time? My time is money, and that is not to sound like a snob at all.

Could I just go buy some brass rod that is the same diameter as the current switch or some copper or brass tubing, whatever they sell at the hobby shop to fix this problem?

Threadlocker does not work. Super glue does not work. My threads are CLEAN and I CANNOT TACKLE THIS PROBLEM!!!

I also have the original 20 and while it does work, the voltage drop even with a new gold spring is too much. Not for me, but it does look the part.

19b coming soon, hopefully with a few small changes it will be good - considering the 19e as well.

Why can't they all work as well as my Titan? Pinoy mods and drip tips rule, I just can't buy so many of those, haha.

Thanks all and keep up the great work!

 

[Schnarph]

These clones seem to be working as well as clone #3 in the movie "Multiplicity". I'm referring to the Sigelei #20 in particular, some of the Sigelei's are like clone #2, and a few of you have been lucky enough to get a close run to clone #1. If I wasn't making my own mod right now I would work on this silly #20 switch. Still waiting for a genius to post a solution.

 

[justinstar77]

I have an original (first shipment) #8 and the pin is too short, leaving me to unscrew the button a bit.

The button has exploded for lack of a better word on me a half dozen times while im OUTSIDE THE HOUSE. The entire purpose for buying these cheap mods to me, is something I can take out of the house, to the bar/club parties, friends for weekend parties and not fret if i drop it or lose it. Using your phones camera flash for a spring in the middle of a huge poolside party at 12:30 ain't cool. Not cool at all friends.

I've lost the spring, replaced with one from a ballpoint pen but it just doesn't work. Anyone have measurements or suggestions on where i could source something like this with reasonable cost in both dollars and time? My time is money, and that is not to sound like a snob at all.

Could I just go buy some brass rod that is the same diameter as the current switch or some copper or brass tubing, whatever they sell at the hobby shop to fix this problem?

Threadlocker does not work. Super glue does not work. My threads are CLEAN and I CANNOT TACKLE THIS PROBLEM!!!

I also have the original 20 and while it does work, the voltage drop even with a new gold spring is too much. Not for me, but it does look the part.

19b coming soon, hopefully with a few small changes it will be good - considering the 19e as well.

Why can't they all work as well as my Titan? Pinoy mods and drip tips rule, I just can't buy so many of those, haha.

Thanks all and keep up the great work!

Maybe a piece of brass tube around the spring cup would get you there? Or, maybe a dab of silver solder on the tip of the pin?

 

[Stoneface]

These clones seem to be working as well as clone #3 in the movie "Multiplicity". I'm referring to the Sigelei #20 in particular, some of the Sigelei's are like clone #2, and a few of you have been lucky enough to get a close run to clone #1. If I wasn't making my own mod right now I would work on this silly #20 switch. Still waiting for a genius to post a solution.

^^^^ This.....is.....awesome

 

[madicen]

Where did you get your "copper" 19 from?
I have been stalking my inbox waiting for my shipping confirmation LOL

Vaportek round 1.

My hopes are pretty high for these. Like was mentioned, the talk in various co-ops have been pretty positive...copper, brass...that's what you want to hear....the gold plated chatter is most likely just the gold colored chrome they like to use.

I've been on an all brass w/copper pins kick lately with my mods. Scored some nice Pinoy ones that are just fantastic, all in the $125-145 shipped from Malaysia such as the Pipebomb and Bagga. If this version of the #19 comes close to those I'll be very, very giddy. Ascetically the #19 is one of my favorite mods. Looks good, feels nice and solid in your hand...just a sharp looking mod all around. Cannot wait to get this in next week.

 

[the4thpower3]

From a conversation I read from a Co-op Q&A with a Sigelei Rep last week, the #19e is solid brass with COPPER pins, and a gold-plated spring (up top)...not positive about the lower spring, but the bottom magnet cup was brass in the regular #19s, so it should be the same...possibly copper also. I just received notification that mine shipped on Friday (Vaportek)....looking forward to getting my mitts on it

I hope Vaportek shipped mine too. I know I was in round one. I haven't gotten any notification. But they've fumbled all 3 of my orders.

I'm actually NOT looking forward to modding the 19E - I hate gettin these switches apart!

 

[astrocity]

Maybe a piece of brass tube around the spring cup would get you there? Or, maybe a dab of silver solder on the tip of the pin?

I wound up at the hardware store and got a brass grommet that was threaded. A half hour with the dremel and it's 50% better. I'll likely pull it all apart and clean everything up and try to smooth out/polish the surface. Throw is extremely short now and I could still take a few mm off the grommet. Worse case scenario I cut it off leaving the original and start over. I think the problem now lies in the pin, and think the threadlock bound up some of the movement.

Sorry to all for the rant. I was really frustrated after being embarrassed in public with it.

I might have forgot to mention that after the switch went off the pin stuck and the genny on the top continued to fire. Eventually the switch housing got so hot it burned me on the hand and I threw the mod on the table. A fellow vaper was actually at the party and the moment after that mod hit the table all I heard was "gas off" and "pipebomb". I know that's a bit overblown from personal experiences but regardless I've never seen 2 grown men work in tandem so quickly to open it all up with 4 hands all at once each disconnecting a section.

The battery wasn't even hot but it was a close call and a learning experience that I will never forget.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

[madicen]

I wound up at the hardware store and got a brass grommet that was threaded. A half hour with the dremel and it's 50% better. I'll likely pull it all apart and clean everything up and try to smooth out/polish the surface. Throw is extremely short now and I could still take a few mm off the grommet. Worse case scenario I cut it off leaving the original and start over. I think the problem now lies in the pin, and think the threadlock bound up some of the movement.

Sorry to all for the rant. I was really frustrated after being embarrassed in public with it.

I might have forgot to mention that after the switch went off the pin stuck and the genny on the top continued to fire. Eventually the switch housing got so hot it burned me on the hand and I threw the mod on the table. A fellow vaper was actually at the party and the moment after that mod hit the table all I heard was "gas off" and "pipebomb". I know that's a bit overblown from personal experiences but regardless I've never seen 2 grown men work in tandem so quickly to open it all up with 4 hands all at once each disconnecting a section.

The battery wasn't even hot but it was a close call and a learning experience that I will never forget.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Oh yeah, that'll wake you up in the morning. A sticking switch on a mech can be a dangerous thing.

Scared the crap out of me the first time I had a battery vent on me too. You hear a lot about battery safety being thrown around and some people might just shrug it off..."yeah, yeah I'm an *insert smart guy/girl profession here*, I know what Im doing...yada yada.."...and you know, I might have been one of those guys a few years back (just saying, not admitting to nothing...) and I nearly vented my pants when I had a battery go on me.

 

[alchemix]

Can i use sigelei kick with #13, and if i can, which battery configurations will work? (i wish 18350+sgl kick will work)

 

[Lhartman89]

Can i use sigelei kick with #13, and if i can, which battery configurations will work? (i wish 18350+sgl kick will work)

I don't think it will as the ID of the tube is bigger than the kick. At least my real kick wouldn't fit my #13. If you could fit it in the smaller part of the tube it would work and by smaller tube, I mean the lower portion that the upper tube threads onto for the telescoping if that makes sense. You might be able to shim it. When I had my kick, I couldn't get it to work with an 18350 but I had crappy old batteries, so it might work with some good AW or something.

 

[Porksmuggler]

I have an original (first shipment) #8 and the pin is too short, leaving me to unscrew the button a bit.

I keep seeing the same suggestions, unscrewing the button, threadlocker, etc. but if the pin is too short from sanding or just came that way, all you need to do is sand down the switch housing directly under the button. This is where the button top contacts the switch housing, and the more you sand off the further in the switch pin will go. Just make sure the locking ring is tightened all the way down, so that when you're sanding it's also sanded flush with the housing.

 

[eHuman]

If brass only has 25-40% of the conductivity rating compared to copper, why is it in high demand, other than looking very nice? Is there a danger using a solid copper mod (other than the large hit to your wallet to buy the stock to make it)?

 

[Innocuous]

You can buy copper pipe, connectors and endcaps. Meanwhile, brass is more durable (and be threaded) while copper isn't as durable and can't.

 

[clancy0below]

copper also corrodes and oxidizes faster if I remember right

 

[Innocuous]

It can, or you can seal it. The contacts wil be fine.

 

[st0nedpenguin]

Polished brass also looks so much better.

 

[Schnarph]

For the connectors, you can put some no-ox-id on them and they'll be good for many years. I wouldn't want it covering the body of my mod though. Some people like the look of oxidized copper, and as long as it's only on the outside it won't hurt the conductivity. It might leave your hands a little dirty, but I've read that copper jewelry has been used for decades/centuries to alleviate arthritis (not proven).

I make copper pipe mods myself, using copper contacts brushed with no-ox-id inside. After a good polish, the mod's body stays very shiny for a while, then gets an antiqued look that I don't mind at all. I don't think that would be a good selling point however.

Still waiting for a fix for the Sigelei #20 V2 switch...