Sigelei Mechnical Mods

[Sonic Tooth]

Hello all! Looking for some advice here on a sigelei mech. I'm sure the info I'm looking for is somewhere in this thread, but wow this thread is LONG!
I'm looking for a Sigelei mech with minimal voltage drop and a solid feel. I currently own a #24 which works beautifully, and also own(ed) a #20 which almost exploded on me, so it's obvious not all Sigeleis are created equal.

I like that the #24 has the top firing button and would like another one with the same button setup, but it's no big deal if a highly recommended one is bottom or pinky firing. I also get very low voltage drop on the #24 -- I don't have any exact numbers -- but the difference is obvious when I put the same atomizer and batteries on a different mod. The #24 hits hard, especially compared to the #20.

I am looking at the #8, #13, and the #19 copper edition. Does anyone know which one of these three has best performance and which one is most solidly built? For example the #24 is WAY more solid feeling than the #20; overall better quality materials. Also perhaps you guys could recommend one that isn't one of these three. I picked those models out for consideration based on overall positive reviews, but Sigelei has a ton of mechs. I don't see the #24 talked about as much as others, but I'd recommend it in a heartbeat.

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[CloudZ]

Sonic Tooth- Check out the #23. If you search this thread, you can find my posts where I took pictures of most of the internals. It has been rock solid and has performed well. The insides are nearly identical to the #24, but the button has a nice locking ring. The appearance of the #24 is a little more "popular" around here, but that doesn't matter much to me. Of course, the #20 looks better than both of them (IMO anyway), but the switch in it is a problem waiting to happen.

One thing I will note, which I found out recently, is that if you put it together so the button is on the bottom, the battery cannot vent if it goes thermal. As long as you keep it in the top button configuration, the vents are in the right place.

 

[Sonic Tooth]

CloudZ: I have read about the 23 misfiring. Have you ever observed this?

Also my #24 came with a locking ring, which I actually took off and never use, partially because I actually prefer the way it looks without it. I know why so many people like the look of the #20, myself included, but when you look at the 20 and 24 side by side, I'd say I prefer the look of the 24 due to better finish quality and more solid looking materials. The 24 looks more "expensive", in my eyes at least.

 

[tmoore]

Sonic Tooth- Check out the #23...

...if you put it together so the button is on the bottom, the battery cannot vent if it goes thermal. As long as you keep it in the top button configuration, the vents are in the right place.

I never noticed the venting issue with the button placement. Thanks for the heads up.
I like the look and feel of the #23 very much. Only hang-up I have with it is measuring a voltage drop of .4 -.5 (1.4ohm, AW IMR 18650 2000mah @ 4.0v)

CloudZ: I have read about the 23 misfiring. Have you ever observed this?

I haven't experienced a true misfire. What does happen a lot is the button lock being so big it often gets screwed out inadvertently.

 

[Rapture]

Yepper, mine just arrived in the mail about 45 minutes ago. Body and all the other pieces are Brass. The top positive pin in mine was brass as well, and my early attempts at getting the button apart have been fruitless so far, but all I've tried at this point is just using one of those rubber jar-opener thingies (which worked on my original #19a).

The top cap on mine has a galling problem, but a little Noalox and working it back and forth a few times is making it a little better, but I'll have to clean up the threads just a bit to make it buttery smooth like my original. There are also a lot more sharp edges in the machining here and there, but that should be easily resolved with a bit of polishing....overall, not as well finished as the Stainless was, but still not too bad.

Fire button is stiff and long-throw like the original, but VERY positive ...no misfires or sparks, though like I said, only about a half-hour of using it.

One thing I wall say for it; it HITS HARD!!! Much better than my stainless model already, even though my 19a has been modded. It definitely has potential....

Side-by-side comparison:

I have the 19e all brass with no magnets and no glue. i have a spring up top and it is long, annoying and its grinding into my battery when i put it in. Do you know if i can just take that spring out completely and let the battery sit against the copper piece thats above the derlin. thanks

 

[NamVet68]

I have the 19e all brass with no magnets and no glue. i have a spring up top and it is long, annoying and its grinding into my battery when i put it in. Do you know if i can just take that spring out completely and let the battery sit against the copper piece thats above the derlin. thanks

Yes you can - I've done that with both of them - they work fine....probably better than with the spring. The only negative is you won't be able to run it in 18350 mode without it (battery will be too short), so I would save the spring & screw just-in-case.

 

[Rapture]

thanks alot. i tried it and works great.

 

[CloudZ]

CloudZ: I have read about the 23 misfiring. Have you ever observed this?

Also my #24 came with a locking ring, which I actually took off and never use, partially because I actually prefer the way it looks without it. I know why so many people like the look of the #20, myself included, but when you look at the 20 and 24 side by side, I'd say I prefer the look of the 24 due to better finish quality and more solid looking materials. The 24 looks more "expensive", in my eyes at least.

I've never had a misfire.

The #24 has that belt clip ring thing, but I thought it didn't have a button lock. It looks more like a button "guard".

 

[Schnarph]

Does anyone here have the #8D Natural clone? I can deal with the firing button being much harder to press, but the non-adjustable center pin might be a deal breaker if I can't remove it to take ~2mm off the top. I've tried pliers to move it from the battery side and hammering it down from the top but it won't budge. Other than the non-adjustable center pin it mimics the SmokTech Natural quite well, I have both.

What are the chances that the Nzonic cap would fit?

 

[IMEDICx90]

My button presses fairly easy and I have yet to try and take out the center pin so I'm of no help to you unfortunately. I wondered the same thing about the top cap but I have yet to try and purchase one. If you end up wanting to get rid of the clone feel free to message me.

 

[Schnarph]

Update: Nevermind. I got the center pin to go down about 2mm using a hammer and 3/16" brass rod. That center pin is really stuck in there good! If they had used an adjustable center pin like the original SmokTech Natural I would tell everyone to get one.

 

[IMEDICx90]

Update: Nevermind. I got the center pin to go down about 2mm using a hammer and 3/16" brass rod. That center pin is really stuck in there good! If they had used an adjustable center pin like the original SmokTech Natural I would tell everyone to get one.

Nice! Thanks for the tip! What did you pop the center pin down for? Like which rba?

 

[Vince159]

Hello all! Looking for some advice here on a Sigelei mech. I'm sure the info I'm looking for is somewhere in this thread, but wow this thread is LONG!
I'm looking for a Sigelei mech with minimal voltage drop and a solid feel. I currently own a #24 which works beautifully, and also own(ed) a #20 which almost exploded on me, so it's obvious not all Sigeleis are created equal.

I like that the #24 has the top firing button and would like another one with the same button setup, but it's no big deal if a highly recommended one is bottom or pinky firing. I also get very low voltage drop on the #24 -- I don't have any exact numbers -- but the difference is obvious when I put the same atomizer and batteries on a different mod. The #24 hits hard, especially compared to the #20.

I am looking at the #8, #13, and the #19 copper edition. Does anyone know which one of these three has best performance and which one is most solidly built? For example the #24 is WAY more solid feeling than the #20; overall better quality materials. Also perhaps you guys could recommend one that isn't one of these three. I picked those models out for consideration based on overall positive reviews, but Sigelei has a ton of mechs. I don't see the #24 talked about as much as others, but I'd recommend it in a heartbeat.

Thanks in advance for your help!

I recently bought all three, the 8,13 and 19. The 8 was the most solid out of the box, with the 13 a close second. The only problem I have with the 13 is heat on the button. The 13 has the same set up the 8 does, except it's telescopic; I actually like it best because it's telescopic, I just gotta horse around with it and get the heat out of the button and to the tope where it belongs. The 19 may be better by now, but I got it about a month ago and it had the magnet glued in the button and a spring on the top, and it miss fired like crazy. If I had to choose one, I'd take the 13. I like the 8 alot, but it's not telescopic.

 

[whit77]

Any one got the new #20 yet, is the 510 adjustable

 

[bapgood]

Any one got the new #20 yet, is the 510 adjustable

Any reports if they changed the switch on the new #20?

I have kind of been tinkering with a Orion type replacement switch for the 3 20's I have collecting dust.

 

[NamVet68]

Any reports if they changed the switch on the new #20?

I have kind of been tinkering with a Orion type replacement switch for the 3 20's I have collecting dust.

New #20??? Does anyone have more info? I've been doing all kinds of searches but can't find anything about a "New" version.

I've had a project on the back burner to replace the switch with one from a roller (new style won't work - old style might), or build something with a similar design, but haven't had the time.... I have two #20s gathering dust at the moment, and a spare head chopped up in pieces (thanks to Bmays)....

I've always loved the #20 ... one that works reliably would definitely be a welcome addition to the stable.

 

[Stoneface]

New #20??? Does anyone have more info? I've been doing all kinds of searches but can't find anything about a "New" version.

I've had a project on the back burner to replace the switch with one from a roller (new style won't work - old style might), or build something with a similar design, but haven't had the time.... I have two #20s gathering dust at the moment, and a spare head chopped up in pieces (thanks to Bmays)....

I've always loved the #20 ... one that works reliably would definitely be a welcome addition to the stable.

My 20 is collecting dust too; it just doesn't seem safe. I really like the functionality of the mod itself, so I'm looking forward to any safe fixes for that mod....

 

[whit77]

Yes it has got a adjustable 510 and its flat

 

[justinstar77]

Let's hope they did the switch internals like the #24!

 

[bapgood]

Yes it has got a adjustable 510 and its flat

Hmmm....IMO they made it look worse, but it looks like it may be hybrid-able which would fix the majority of the looks...except for that eye sore of a lock ring.

Hope they also got rid of the holes in the side.

I think I will continue tinkering