Sigelei Mechnical Mods

[NamVet68]

Hmmm....IMO they made it look worse, but it looks like it may be hybrid-able which would fix the majority of the looks...except for that eye sore of a lock ring.

Hope they also got rid of the holes in the side.

I think I will continue tinkering

If the internals for the switch are interchangeable with the current #20 - I'm good. The button looks identical .... I'm sure somebody will eventually sell the head unit as a replacement.... either that, or copy the damn thing. I can make a Franken-20

 

[NamVet68]

Just a heads-up ... Vapor Joe just posted that the new re-designed sigelei #20 is in stock (NOT a Pre-Order) at Vaportek ....even has a coupon code:

http://.........blogspot.com/2013/08/rollout-in-stock-redesigned-sigelei-20.html?spref=fb

Needless to say .... got one on the way

 

[Stoneface]

Just a heads-up ... Vapor Joe just posted that the new re-designed sigelei #20 is in stock at Vaportek ....even has a coupon code:

http://.........blogspot.com/2013/08/rollout-in-stock-redesigned-sigelei-20.html?spref=fb

Needless to say .... got one on the way

Good....now you can tell us about the switch

If it's better, I hope we can just order a new head for the old ones.

 

[NamVet68]

Good....now you can tell us about the switch

If it's better, I hope we can just order a new head for the old ones.

...I'll let you know when I get it. I was shocked...just heard about the redesigned #20 this afternoon, and it's already in stock! Now, if they could just ship the brass Bagua clone I've had on pre-order for the last six weeks, I'd be a happy camper.....

 

[Stoneface]

...I'll let you know when I get it. I was shocked...just heard about the redesigned #20 this afternoon, and it's already in stock! Now, if they could just ship the brass Bagua clone I've had on pre-order for the last six weeks, I'd be a happy camper.....

That's okay...I signed up for #19 no-glue no-magnet switches with Bucky, which he hasn't even ordered yet. Others are dragging their feet!

 

[bzmotoninja83]

I've been in talks with a rep to possibly make a sigelei hybrid with some of the parts they already have in production. Whether or not it will succeed or flop is another story. Hopefully they make a good one tho.

Sent from my Optimus G using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2

 

[bzmotoninja83]

Oh yeah, I found this browsing too..... I really liked my #20 till it decided to revolt against it's innards. Hopefully, they ditched the spring in the switch design and went with the idea that I have in my mind with a lockable switch that uses more of a plate style like what the iSeason has..... Time will tell




Sent from my Optimus G using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2

 

[Vince159]

Gotta jump off topic for a quick minute, I've been working with my #13, which I got a few weeks ago; it has the same top and bottom pieces at my #8, so I was really glad to dodge the previous #13 problems. The main issue I had with it was major button heat. I found a thread about modding an 8, which explained how to get the button apart using heat. So i got it apart, clean it good and used a brass shim in it. What a difference! Zero button heat, and .25 drop with a 1 ohm Chobra genny. I'm truly loving this thing now. Now I'm gonna give the #8 the same treatment. I don't own a #20, but I'm giving it a second look now.

 

[NamVet68]

Gotta jump off topic for a quick minute, I've been working with my #13, which I got a few weeks ago; it has the same top and bottom pieces at my #8, so I was really glad to dodge the previous #13 problems. The main issue I had with it was major button heat. I found a thread about modding an 8, which explained how to get the button apart using heat. So i got it apart, clean it good and used a brass shim in it. What a difference! Zero button heat, and .25 drop with a 1 ohm Chobra genny. I'm truly loving this thing now. Now I'm gonna give the #8 the same treatment. I don't own a #20, but I'm giving it a second look now.

Yep, I had the hot button issue with my 13a & did the same thing. Just removing the button, cleaning up the threads & reinstalling it with Noalox made it like a different MOD. It hits a hell of a lot harder and I haven't had the pinky-frying experience since (it got REALLY hot running sub-Ohms at times).

BTW, if you are looking at the #20 on Vaportek, they also now have a "Hot Spring" (copper) for the 13, 8, and a couple of other Sigeleis for a couple of bucks that should make an even bigger difference....just check out the "Sigelei Parts" section.

 

[Vince159]

Yep, I had the hot button issue with my 13a & did the same thing. Just removing the button, cleaning up the threads & reinstalling it with Noalox made it like a different MOD. It hits a hell of a lot harder and I haven't had the pinky-frying experience since (it got REALLY hot running sub-Ohms at times).

BTW, if you are looking at the #20 on Vaportek, they also now have a "Hot Spring" (copper) for the 13, 8, and a couple of other Sigeleis for a couple of bucks that should make an even bigger difference....just check out the "Sigelei Parts" section.

Yea that botton was on fire with sum-ohm coils. I'll take a look at Sigelei Parts, thanks for the heads up. What I've been doing is something I learned from the MKB-TS thread. I got some brass sheeting, small thin pieces, and I use a little piece to line the inside of the button housing. It works like a charm, and i got a huge supply of the stuff for about $5 at Ace Hardware. I'm putting it in all my pinky buttons; no more heat, and nice increase in current flow.

 

[Porksmuggler]

Yea that botton was on fire with sum-ohm coils. I'll take a look at Sigelei Parts, thanks for the heads up. What I've been doing is something I learned from the MKB-TS thread. I got some brass sheeting, small thin pieces, and I use a little piece to line the inside of the button housing. It works like a charm, and i got a huge supply of the stuff for about $5 at Ace Hardware. I'm putting it in all my pinky buttons; no more heat, and nice increase in current flow.

Any pics? The button housing is already brass, and if you've sanded it, that should be enough, so I'm not getting where the shim would be a conductive path.

 

[Vince159]

Any pics? The button housing is already brass, and if you've sanded it, that should be enough, so I'm not getting where the shim would be a conductive path.

No, no pics, unfortunately, and I have them all done so I won't be doing it again for a while. All I know is the shim worked on my MKB-TS's, so I did it to the Sigelei's and had the same results. There are pics on the MKB-TS the GGTS clone thread, but it's a big thread and I don't know exactly where the photos are. I think they're somewhere around 2 months ago. I'm just glad the mods are working well. If just sanding them gets it done, that's great.

 

[bapgood]

I got some components in for the 20 elec switch mod and with the first set of components in a hokey mock up setup I'm getting great results. Vdrop is .25v-.3v lower in the hokey setup than a modified standard 20. Vdrop is being tested at the coil connections under load in an rsst with 0.8 ohm coil. With a fresh aw 18650 1600 mah battery I was getting 3.87v at the coil under load.

I have few different components to try, but it's looking pretty positive so far.

 

[bzmotoninja83]

Bapgood, any pics of how you set it up? I've got one I picked up that has 10-32 or so, screws for the connections and still using the OEM switch. I was thinking about getting something like the iSeason switch because it has a greater contact area for the switch. The delrin that houses the switch currently might be able to bore it a little and thread it to match the new switch?

Sent from my Optimus G using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2

 

[bapgood]

Bapgood, any pics of how you set it up? I've got one I picked up that has 10-32 or so, screws for the connections and still using the OEM switch. I was thinking about getting something like the iSeason switch because it has a greater contact area for the switch. The delrin that houses the switch currently might be able to bore it a little and thread it to match the new switch?

Sent from my Optimus G using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2

I don't have a pic of my test setup, but its not really a useable portable mod. I have the 20 head in a vise and wires running out to components.

This switch wont be a mechanical switch, it will be an electronic switch (something similar to the Orion V2.1 switch). Right now I don't think I'm going to try to make it lock, I'm thinking I will just run a ss button that sits flush with the recess in the switch hole.

I have more components due in today so I should be able to finish one up and start beating on it.

 

[Sonic Tooth]

My husband went ahead and ordered the #8, and it came a few days ago.
The thing wouldn't fire until the button was pressed really hard. Seems like they made the pin a bit short.
He shimmed it with some copper and now it hits like a champ, but buyer beware I'd say. I'm not sure what the deal is, but it seems like some people have 8s that work fantastic right out of the box, and some people (like me), not so much.
Quality control Sigelei, come on!

 

[surfnpuff]

Ordered my sigelei #20 v3 a couple days ago and it comes in today. I hope it's awesome! My V2 actually did well. Giving it to a friend for juice.

 

[NamVet68]

Got the new Sigelei #20 V3 today, so I thought I'd tear it apart and do a quick show & tell.

First off; it works VERY well, and it looks like they fixed all the problems with the early ones:

Pros: Adjustable center pin, flush top mount, better "safety" ring on the fire button (recessed too), copper "Hot Spring", no weird holes in the sides of the head....and last but not least; the switch now has an intelligent design...no more funky spring-around-the-positive-post nonsense.

Interesting button design -very short/positive button throw (about 1/16 inch). It's somewhat recessed into the safety ring, and helps keep the button from flopping around like with the original 20. Good tactile feel - just put your thumb over the whole thing & press lightly...almost feels like a magnetic button (but its not). Easy to spin the safety on & off, but the way the button is set up, you really don't need the safety unless you are really paranoid. I wish all side-fire buttons worked as well as this one....Nice!

Cons: None yet

Head disassembled:

Adjustable Positive pin (upper view with 510 connector & Delrin ring removed):

Bottom side of adjustable positive pin:

510 connector plate goes inside Delrin sleeve over positive pin - fire button comes in from the side & makes contact with the post on the 510 plate to make the circuit.....very solid/foolproof design :

And yes, adjust the center pin & it will fit flush with any Atty:

Loving this thing! Hits well & works with the Kick like a boss. Still playing with a few things - don't know if the top plate is brass or stainless yet, just running it though its paces with various attys at the moment, but so far, it's an outstanding little mechanical !

Happy Happy

 

[Stoneface]

Thanks very much Nam. What is the black ring? I've been wondering since I saw the first pics of the 20 V3...

 

[NamVet68]

Thanks very much Nam. What is the black ring? I've been wondering since I saw the first pics of the 20 V3...

Its a Delrin ring that isolates the top plate from the head. If you look at the pics of the disassembled head, you can see where it sits in a recess on top of the head under the 510 plate/post, but its thicker than the recess, so the plate floats on top of it.

The way the switch works, the fire button comes in from the side & touches the post on the plate to complete the circuit (shorts the head to the body of the MOD). Without the Delrin ring, it would fire continuously. The 510 plate/post is also lined with Delrin to isolate the positive pin. Slick design - nothing to really break or go wrong...KISS principle at its finest