Sigelei Mechnical Mods

[Stoneface]

Wonder how they got the switch out? Once removed maybe the delrin insert could be pressed out & a sex bolt could be ground down to fit.

This is what I've been wondering too...it seems like removing the switch is the key to getting into the guts of the top of the mod. Todd mentioned being able to see springs through the "vent holes" (or whatever they are), which also makes me wonder if a specialty tool is required to do a full tear down of the switch head assembly...

EDIT: It seems that they can't possibly be vent holes (that's why I used quotes) because the delrin blocks any usefulness of the holes for airflow purposes...

 

[XfooYen]

Those are likely access holes for manufacturing. I would guess the parts inside were spot welded through the holes. Todd's video showed the button being secured with a pin which cannot be removed. I think the #20 is a lost cause unless you're willing to destroy the contents of the control head and rebuild it with a DNA20 or some other mech configuration. The problem with the latter is in order to have a top fire button on a mech, the positive connector must be isolated from the battery. This is one mod I will likely might sell/trade in the classies as soon as I receive it pending a decent fix.

EDIT: Apparently I was totally wrong as it seems from the below posts we are nearing some kind of solution. Gotta love the vaping community!

 

[techmatlock]

The #20 is stainless steel, it's a top button, not really caps. The bottom button #8, #13, #21, etc. are chrome plated brass.

anavidfan is probably referring to the modded #8s and #13s in this thread, with the chrome plating sanded off. I don't know of one that comes from Sigelei with exposed brass, they chrome their stuff or use steel.

Yeah, you're correct.

 

[XfooYen]

I don't know if this video was posted here yet, but it's a good explanation on how to mod the #19. It also shows that the magnet inside the switch can be removed rather than ground down.

 

[st0nedpenguin]

Looks like somebody managed it.

 

[bapgood]

Ok but how?

 

[st0nedpenguin]

No idea, just saw it on Facebook.

 

[Stoneface]

Looks like somebody managed it.

Thank you, eagle eyes...

Ok but how?

C'mon Bap, don't let it beat you...and once you figure it out, let me in on the secret

 

[Mark Todd]

That's the bloke I got my 20 from, he's doing a little write up just now, I'll post it offer here once he's done

Sent from my Shed.

 

[st0nedpenguin]

That's the bloke I got my 20 from, he's doing a little write up just now, I'll post it offer here once he's done

Sent from my Shed.

I expect a video within the hour!

 

[Stoneface]

That's the bloke I got my 20 from, he's doing a little write up just now, I'll post it offer here once he's done
Sent from my Shed.

Move to the US, please. Preferably NY. Bring your friends.

I expect a video within the hour!

Seconded...

 

[CountSmackula]

There's a post on Todd's wall with photos on taking down the switch on the #20.

 

[cghildreth]

That's the bloke I got my 20 from, he's doing a little write up just now, I'll post it offer here once he's done

Sent from my Shed.

Excellent! I was worried that the 20 I've got showing up on my doorstep tomorrow would be going up on the classies in short order. Looks like I may be in for a bit of custom milling to get an adjustable center pin, but I'm Allright with that. Anxiously looking forward to the tear down guide.

 

[Mark Todd]

Thanks to Gary for this


Step 1: unscrew 510 connector and remove plastic washer
Step 2: ease off fire button and remove spring , take note which way spring is sitting, you may need screwdriver either side of fire button to remove , the little grey pin on the fire button is part of the lockable button feature
Step 3: take needle nose pliers and gently pull on fire button pin that is in control head to remove plastic housing
Step 4: take needle nose pliers and gently work out centre post and spring from bottom of control head
Step 5: lay control head with top side flat on surface and insert screwdriver into hole on base of control unit and gently tap remaining centre post out
Step 6: turn control head over so top can be seen and take a flat headed screw and gently tap out remaining plastic housing
Step 7: rebuilding of control head is reversal of what has just been done
Tip: build fire button assembly before refitting , makes it easier to get fire button on fully and line up grey pin on fire button so that it is in the on position , you will see the groove in plastic housing

Sent from my shed by TJ

 

[bapgood]

Awesome!!! Looks like both the 19 & 20 may both become hybrids ...at least flush on the 20.

 

[Lhartman89]

I got my #20 today and it hits good with my RSST on top at 1 ohm.

 

[Rader2146]

A hard short looks like this(fast forward to 1:58):

As the video states, that's a severe overcharge, not a hard short. Hard shorts on a good IMR are typically anti-climactic, but charging a battery that has been damaged by a short can get exciting. The overcharge and the short are not the cause of catastrophe, rather the precursors to the event. The heat created by either, and the subsequent disintegration of the separating layers is how things get violent.

But a good 1/16" thick silver plated magnet would solve the need for an upside down battery or spring, or you could solder a copper or brass washer to the bottom of the battery, etc.....just thinking out loud

Soldering to a battery is never a good idea. Without extreme skill and careful temperature control, its an easy was to send it into thermal runaway.

But now we're talking battery wrap issues here, not strictly orientation. A battery the right way up will short if the outside of the wrap is busted too.

Taking damaged batteries out of the equation I still fail to see any issue with a reversed battery.

It may be semantics, but a damaged wrap on a battery that is install the correct way will only bypass the switch. Not a dangerous hard short that would be inline with the context of the conversation.

 

[XfooYen]

Thanks to Gary for this


Step 1: unscrew 510 connector and remove plastic washer
Step 2: ease off fire button and remove spring , take note which way spring is sitting, you may need screwdriver either side of fire button to remove , the little grey pin on the fire button is part of the lockable button feature
Step 3: take needle nose pliers and gently pull on fire button pin that is in control head to remove plastic housing
Step 4: take needle nose pliers and gently work out centre post and spring from bottom of control head
Step 5: lay control head with top side flat on surface and insert screwdriver into hole on base of control unit and gently tap remaining centre post out
Step 6: turn control head over so top can be seen and take a flat headed screw and gently tap out remaining plastic housing
Step 7: rebuilding of control head is reversal of what has just been done
Tip: build fire button assembly before refitting , makes it easier to get fire button on fully and line up grey pin on fire button so that it is in the on position , you will see the groove in plastic housing

Sent from my shed by TJ

This is great. Thanks, Todd. Now the trick is for us to figure a fix to make the connector adjustable so it can accept tanks without leaving a gap. The Delrin is so shallow, it may not be possible. I just received my #20 today. I'm going to wait until after the weekend to tackle this quandary. Too much modding isn't good for my soft brain. Must be ready for Mother's sharp wit tomorrow.

 

[bapgood]

Soldering to a battery is never a good idea. Without extreme skill and careful temperature control, its an easy was to send it into thermal runaway.

Yes you are correct....sorry I always seem to forget to mention safety and caution end of things.

My main point is there are plenty of low profile ways to avoid the need for upside down batteries. A thin magnet with a good conductive coating seems pretty simple to me.

 

[michliu]

I don't know if this video was posted here yet, but it's a good explanation on how to mod the #19. It also shows that the magnet inside the switch can be removed rather than ground down.

Help me with the reasoning behind the no res wire part on the #19. I don't have my #19 yet, but trying to understand the electronics of it and whether it might also apply to that stupid #13 plastic switch a bunch of us have.