Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

[yzer]

I remove old Noalox and reapply every couple of months. I don't see a need to do it more often than that.

I can't imagine a sigelei screen just popping out on it's own. Something probably encourages this to happen.

sigelei V3 and V5 use a lighted OLED display. If turned a certain way it can be impossible to read in direct sunlight. If I need to read the display outdoors in the sun I can always shade it with one hand to get a reading. I don't need to see the screen to vape. Looking through polarized sunglasses can make it impossible to see an OLED or LCD display. Tilt your your head or rotate the sigelei 45° to see it perfectly well through polarized sunglasses.

 

[yzer]

The screen on my Samsung smart phone is Super AMOLED, a touch screen relative of OLED. Many of us are familiar with trying to see these displays in direct sunlight.

 

[AndriaD]

Usually if I'm out in sunlight trying to do something with it, it's because I just left a store, dragged it out of my purse, and am attempting to "turn it on" -- I have to turn the fire button off when it's in my purse, for obvious reasons. When I'm walking thru a parking lot it's kinda hard to shade it with my other hand, which may well have my purse in it, or a bag of groceries, or whatever. It just really bugged me today, because if it had been one of my vv3s, I could have easily read it, even in bright sun.

Andria

 

[fairmana]

Thanks, all!


The display cover/window is definitely not press-fit.. I can see some adhesive remanants on the steel..

As for the material, I was wondering if acrylic or glass.. But leaning heavily towards acrylic (which can crack/chip, too).. Just doesn't seem like glass, really..


Anyway, I see I'm not the 1st to experience this.. Wish they used a better adhesive or something..

At least it happened at home & I didn't lose it...

I'm sure that you and Yzer are right and the screens are made out of acrylic. I would guess that making them out of glass would be way too costly.

 

[Gato del Jugo]

I can't imagine a Sigelei screen just popping out on it's own. Something probably encourages this to happen.

It got dropped all of 2 times.. Once off the desk onto a carpeted floor from 2-3 feet, and the other time onto the kitchen floor from 2-3 feet, where the clearo took the brunt (if not all) of the impact -- and no, the clearo didn't survive..

Both of those times were early on, like several months ago..

This wasn't an "abused" PV.. It spent most of its life indoors.. And when outside, nothing strenuous like construction or landscaping or getting dropped in the snow, etc... If anything, it was pretty babied...


The window only popped out recently, just prior to retirement.. I literally just touched the window, I think just wiping away a fingerprint, and as I pulled my finger away, the window plopped out onto the desk...


This has happened to not only mine, but also to fairmana (at least once), JeremyR & dsconnell -- that's been posted that I'm aware of..

Maybe the adhesive just gets weak after a while.. And/or maybe they didn't use enough, whether generally-speaking, or a particular Sigelei worker or three.. Who knows...


Anyway, that's what this board & thread are for.. Not bashing the product.. just looking for some helpful advice!

 

[yzer]

I agree, this thread is all about learning about the Sigelei V3 and V5: operation, maintenance and repair. I wrote that 3M 5200 is a good bet to glue the display cover back in place. I stand by that. 3M 5200 is polyurethane and remains flexible and nearly impossible to remove. It will adhere to plastics, glass and metal. I have seen it for sale at Ace Hardware. It is nearly impervious to the elements including salt water. For that reason it is considered a permanent adhesive and sealant. 3M 5200 is undoubtedly a better adhesive choice than what was used as OEM adhesive by Sigelei. 3M can protect it's patents from China. So can Sika, who make a similar product in Europe.

My three Sigeleis have gotten hard use during during the past 15 months. They have been dropped and bashed. I've never seen a display cover pop out yet.

 

[yzer]

Now, look at how other manufacturers fasten their displays to a tube. Provari uses tacky-looking flat head Phillips screws to fasten the display. It's just a matter of time before those fasteners work loose. Innokin SVD takes it one step worse with Phillips flat heads with a cheap facia plate on top of the tube.

 

[fairmana]

I've seen the factory glue get soft, which might be why the screen can pop out on rare occasions. I've had it on my fingers and can attest to the consistency of it (sticky, stretchy, and gooey). I'm not sure if the glue is that way all the time or if it eventually gets that way. It might be caused by wiping the outer tube with a paper towel moistened with alcohol (which I do on occasion) or by heat which may, over time, soften the glue. I'm just not sure what the deal is with that.

Something else to keep in mind is that these screens are not sealed all the way around them, so you might want to be cautious about getting fluids in that area. The short sides of the screen have no metal "lip" where they can be glued down, and therefore are not sealed on those sides at the factory. I haven't done this, but you could take some flexible type glue and force it down into those cracks around the screen and wipe away the excess. I personally have never noticed that anything got into the tube around the screen, so I'm not trying to scare anyone unnecessarily. I only mention it so that everyone is aware of it. Now that I think of it, the button is not sealed either, so that entire "zone" should be "taboo" for fluids. I think most people are already paranoid about getting that area wet anyway.

 

[Gato del Jugo]

Now, look at how other manufacturers fasten their displays to a tube. Provari uses tacky-looking flat head Phillips screws to fasten the display. It's just a matter of time before those fasteners work loose. Innokin SVD takes it one step worse with Phillips flat heads with a cheap facia plate on top of the tube.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder..

I don't think the Phillips heads look that bad on a ProVari.. Anyway, they're transitioning over to Torx ones now...

Coming up 6 months now, and haven't budged a smidge..

I've never heard of one popping out.. Worst & only thing I heard is that somebody accidently cracked one up against the car's steering wheel (user error).. ProVape fixed it for free..


If something happens in the 1st year, they'll replace it for free.. If it's outside the warranty? They may or may not charge me $5...


Back to our regularly scheduled Sigelei program...

 

[PaulBHC]

Had mine a month and haven't cleaned it yet. Sounds like I'm doing it right. lol

 

[IMRs]

Hello people. Just thought I'd pop in and ask if anyone had any firing button problems like I am having.
Sorry, it looks like this thread is pretty huge, so I didn't have much time to read back through all of the pages to find my answer.
I have a Sigelei Zmax (tele) V5 that I received from Fasttech. It is the flat top and I was sort of disappointed that the top cap Was Totally flat. I was expecting, at least, a little bit of a bevel, like the photo on the site showed. I really like that bevel because it contours and looks a lot better with certain heads.
So getting to the button. My button will stay fired by itself sometimes (I think it's happened about 4 or 5 times). When I first received the Zmax last week, I noticed right away that the button would spin from left to right (and back) slightly. I am thinking this is a defect and maybe it's why the power sticks on sometimes.
Well, I just wondered if anyone else has run into this issue. In the meantime, I am waiting to hear from Fasttech to see what they say. Thanks kindly for any feedback!

 

[yzer]

Thanks for the post, IMRs.

I looks to me like you have a defective switch. The switch should not stick leaving the the device powered up. If this problem does not clear up soon I'd consider returning it as a defective unit.

The button is just a piece of plastic or metal that rests on top of a tactile switch. It is normal for this button to spin freely. The unit you got from FastTech has the power symbol on it. For that reason I suspect that it is a chrome plated plastic button.

From your photos it looks like the Sigelei V5 you got from FastTech has the slotted top cap. This confirms the rumor we posted here several days ago.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-telescopic-users-group-139.html#post13575934

 

[IMRs]

Quite welcome yzer. Thank you for the reply. So I guess I'm fortunate to get the slotted top cap? I'm actually getting use to it already and starting to like the look. I kind of figured the switch was a dud. I understand that the chromed plastic naturally swivels, but it just drives me crazy. Wish they wouldn't have engraved it with the power symbol, then it wouldn't bother me. I have the 'everything should be level & plumb' syndrome. I was wondering- how is the return system with Fasttech? I will most likely want to send it there way for an exchange. Thanks again.

 

[Chiwen]

I'm having a bit of an issue with my new v3 myself lol. Seems to be having an issue with firing. Occasionally I will go to have a vape, press the button and it will delay it's firing for a good 1-2 seconds, then start to fire, or if I let off the button and press again. At first I thought it might be a bad connection with my mini protank 3, so I switched it out for my ibtanked carto tank. No Dice, same issue.

Hoping a good cleaning and noalax application to the threads will help.


Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

 

[yzer]

Cleaning and Noalox on the tube threads may help. I've noticed hesitant firing is when there is a poor connection to the cartomizer center pin. This happens after I have used the same carto for a week or more and the center pin has depressed to near the thread top level. Pulling the carto center pin a little corrects this. A defective switch could also cause this problem. Pressing the fire button by pushing the button straight down from the center of the button can eliminate some misfires. For most, the switch fires less reliably if the edge of the button is pressed or if the button is pressed and released gradually.

 

[yzer]

Sigelei 50W was introduced last Friday. It's a box mod, 7-50W, 0.2-3.0 ohm and measures 90x42x21.5 mm.

SIGELEI 50W MOD _50W BOX MOD_SIGELEI Electronic Cigarette -

 

[fairmana]

Wow... I wouldn't know what to do with a third of that power. Heck, the Sigelei 20W was too rich for my blood. I really don't understand the need for so much power. 8 or 9 watts is plenty for me (apparently not nearly enough for others). I know some folks like to do low ohms and produce clouds of vapor at higher watts, but... really? How much power is enough? Is there such a thing? How does an atomizer survive that much wattage and not become a belch of awful-tasting molten nichrome exhaust?

Maybe I'm just behind the times and I need to catch up with the latest vaping trends...

 

[yzer]

I don't get it either. My vaping comfort zone is 6.5 to 8.0W and I'm usually at the lower end of that range. 9.0W is a lot more vapor than 7.0W but I really don't need it and prefer to have my batteries last longer between charges.

 

[yzer]

Quite welcome yzer. Thank you for the reply. So I guess I'm fortunate to get the slotted top cap? I'm actually getting use to it already and starting to like the look. I kind of figured the switch was a dud. I understand that the chromed plastic naturally swivels, but it just drives me crazy. Wish they wouldn't have engraved it with the power symbol, then it wouldn't bother me. I have the 'everything should be level & plumb' syndrome. I was wondering- how is the return system with Fasttech? I will most likely want to send it there way for an exchange. Thanks again.

I haven't dealt with FastTech but from what I've read they have a return system that involves a return center in Florida (OMG). The process takes a month or more. That's why I like US vendors who discount within a couple of bucks of the FastTech price and offer better customer service.

If I were look for the ultimate V5 coming from Sigelei right now I'd look for the slotted flat top, fine brushed SS finish plain or heat treated rainbow, laser-etched logos, and a flat all-metal button. I'd also look for assurance that the switch is rated for 1,000,000 clicks because this switch is made in China.

Not surprisingly, I haven't seen this package offered anywhere yet.

 

[yzer]

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder..

I don't think the Phillips heads look that bad on a ProVari.. Anyway, they're transitioning over to Torx ones now...

Coming up 6 months now, and haven't budged a smidge..

I've never heard of one popping out.. Worst & only thing I heard is that somebody accidently cracked one up against the car's steering wheel (user error).. ProVape fixed it for free..


If something happens in the 1st year, they'll replace it for free.. If it's outside the warranty? They may or may not charge me $5...


Back to our regularly scheduled Sigelei program...

Philips head screws and drivers are weak. The more you push down on them the more likely they are to strip. Torx screws and drivers are weak: reducing the amount of metal needed to strengthen a screw head and driver. Torx is a security fitting. Manufacturers use Torx to discourage user maintenance. You have to go to the store and buy a Torx wrench and shafts to use them. Torx is like the stupid single slot fasteners you will find in restroom stalls. The ultimate Phillips-type fastener is Frearson. I learned about these working on wooden boats. Frearson screws look a little like Phillips but they don't slip out when you apply great down pressure and turning pressure on the fastener. Frearson screws have been around since at least the 1930's, like Tesla.

Now back to our regularly scheduled programming...