Thanks for your comments and the pics Jeremy. I'm glad your method has worked out well for you. I guess there's more than one way to skin a cat as they say. 
What I've been doing on Sig's that have had the U support break loose is to use a small amount of epoxy to keep it aligned so it doesn't move around while I insert the top cap (I let the epoxy dry first obviously). Although the epoxy gets hard, it doesn't completely harden like a rock. This allows the circuit board to shift a fraction of a millimeter (if necessary) from the battery pressure until it comes to rest against my 2mm-thick spacer. The gap between the top cap and the circuit card is usually just a hair over 2mm based on my previous measurements, so any shifting after the spacer is installed is very minimal. Once that small shift takes place and the card is against the spacer, further pressure from the battery compartment can no longer shift the circuit card since it's now pushing against the spacer which in turn is pushing against the top cap. If I have to remove the card again later, the small amount of glue is not difficult to remove with a sharp tool. I've never noticed or had any complaints from anyone regarding any movement after doing this (knocking on wood).
What pushed me to use a spacer under the top cap is a specific problem that doesn't seem to have occurred on your sigelei. I noticed that in about half the "shifted board" problems that I've fixed, the plastic support stays glued to the inside of the tube and the circuit card breaks out of its slots in the support instead . You've probably seen how those slots in the U support don't go all the way from one end to the other, but rather the slots terminate a few millimeters from the end of the U support closest to the top cap. Those "end-stops" are supposed to keep the circuit card from moving in the slots towards the top cap. However, those end-stops can snap off the U support when they are under pressure which allows the circuit card to shift excessively forward. Usually it's obvious this has happened because once you open the tube you can see two small plastic fragments that have broken away from the edge of the U support where the end stops were located. It was due to this specific symptom that I eventually settled on using a wide horseshoe-shaped spacer under the top cap. The spacer gives the nearest edge of the circuit board something to push against even if the plastic support is doing nothing more than keep the circuit card aligned side-to-side under the screen and the outer button. In my case, that style spacer was simple to make, simple to install without precision positioning or glue (press fit), and foolproof (at least thus far). If I understand correctly how your retainer works, it does the exact same thing but instead creates a spacer between the "shoulders" of the circuit card and the outer edge of the top cap, right? If so, it appears to be a perfectly good solution to the problem as well.
In the case of the "end-stop" problem above, it is not necessary to glue anything since the support is still glued into the tube. It's actually easier to work on this type problem, since all I need to do is slap a spacer under the top cap and close it back up (I've made a small batch of spacers so I can turn repairs around thru the mail faster). These Sig's are also much easier to work on later if they have to be re-opened again since all I have to do is remove the top cap and the entire circuit board just slides right out of the U support (no more end-stops, remember?). I've since started to remove the end-stops on my personal Sig's if I had to open them back up for any reason.
I'm still intrigued by how you avoided needing to use glue on the U support that broke loose Jeremy. You've never noticed any movement or re-alignment (regardless of how slight) when you press the fire button? What about when the battery is removed? If you shake the Sig with no battery installed, does the circuit card make any sort of noise or rotate slightly in the tube?
Drawing of the U support and the end-stops that are prone to breaking:
What I've been doing on Sig's that have had the U support break loose is to use a small amount of epoxy to keep it aligned so it doesn't move around while I insert the top cap (I let the epoxy dry first obviously). Although the epoxy gets hard, it doesn't completely harden like a rock. This allows the circuit board to shift a fraction of a millimeter (if necessary) from the battery pressure until it comes to rest against my 2mm-thick spacer. The gap between the top cap and the circuit card is usually just a hair over 2mm based on my previous measurements, so any shifting after the spacer is installed is very minimal. Once that small shift takes place and the card is against the spacer, further pressure from the battery compartment can no longer shift the circuit card since it's now pushing against the spacer which in turn is pushing against the top cap. If I have to remove the card again later, the small amount of glue is not difficult to remove with a sharp tool. I've never noticed or had any complaints from anyone regarding any movement after doing this (knocking on wood).
What pushed me to use a spacer under the top cap is a specific problem that doesn't seem to have occurred on your sigelei. I noticed that in about half the "shifted board" problems that I've fixed, the plastic support stays glued to the inside of the tube and the circuit card breaks out of its slots in the support instead . You've probably seen how those slots in the U support don't go all the way from one end to the other, but rather the slots terminate a few millimeters from the end of the U support closest to the top cap. Those "end-stops" are supposed to keep the circuit card from moving in the slots towards the top cap. However, those end-stops can snap off the U support when they are under pressure which allows the circuit card to shift excessively forward. Usually it's obvious this has happened because once you open the tube you can see two small plastic fragments that have broken away from the edge of the U support where the end stops were located. It was due to this specific symptom that I eventually settled on using a wide horseshoe-shaped spacer under the top cap. The spacer gives the nearest edge of the circuit board something to push against even if the plastic support is doing nothing more than keep the circuit card aligned side-to-side under the screen and the outer button. In my case, that style spacer was simple to make, simple to install without precision positioning or glue (press fit), and foolproof (at least thus far). If I understand correctly how your retainer works, it does the exact same thing but instead creates a spacer between the "shoulders" of the circuit card and the outer edge of the top cap, right? If so, it appears to be a perfectly good solution to the problem as well.
In the case of the "end-stop" problem above, it is not necessary to glue anything since the support is still glued into the tube. It's actually easier to work on this type problem, since all I need to do is slap a spacer under the top cap and close it back up (I've made a small batch of spacers so I can turn repairs around thru the mail faster). These Sig's are also much easier to work on later if they have to be re-opened again since all I have to do is remove the top cap and the entire circuit board just slides right out of the U support (no more end-stops, remember?). I've since started to remove the end-stops on my personal Sig's if I had to open them back up for any reason.
I'm still intrigued by how you avoided needing to use glue on the U support that broke loose Jeremy. You've never noticed any movement or re-alignment (regardless of how slight) when you press the fire button? What about when the battery is removed? If you shake the Sig with no battery installed, does the circuit card make any sort of noise or rotate slightly in the tube?
Drawing of the U support and the end-stops that are prone to breaking:
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