Good work! Yep, I ordered 10 of the Omron switches from Digikey. No problem.
Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group
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You can order as few as a single switch for 76 cents (not including shipping). For that price, I'd recommend buying at least 2 or 3 just so you have a few spares (just in case).
Looks like your repair went well!
Good looking retainer.
Glad you showed the sacrificial ego to pop the top off.. I use a hammer to drive the top cap back on, with a socket over the 510.
Hi I just got a vmax v5 in the mail whacked a 18500 inside and it didn't turn on. When I took the battery out there was some smoke black burnt plastic on the copper coil.
Not sure if battery's are protected anyone know if this could be a dud or am I doing something wrong.
Took the battery's out of my svd straight in.
Not sure if battery's are protected anyone know if this could be a dud or am I doing something wrong.
Took the battery's out of my svd straight in.
Freeo, I'm not sure I fully understand your problem so correct me if I'm way off. By "copper coil" do you mean the battery spring inside the bottom battery cap had burnt plastic on it? If that's the case, it sounds like your battery got very hot which is not normal. The battery should never feel hot or get hot enough to melt the outer wrapping on the battery (I'm assuming this is the black plastic that was melted?). It's sounds like your battery was shorted out somehow which allowed a lot of current to flow and produce high heat. It may have been a faulty battery or it may be a problem in your Zmax.
Check inside the battery compartment and make sure that there is nothing foreign (metallic) inside there that can cause the battery positive and the outer stainless steel tube (negative) to make contact with each other. If you have a meter, you can also test for a short. Set your meter to measure resistance and place a meter lead on the inside of the tube where the positive contact on the battery touches and the other meter lead to the outside body of the tube (where you place the color of the meter leads make no difference). If you measure a low resistance, then something is wrong with your Zmax circuit that is causing the battery to short and maximum current to flow.
Have you tried a different battery? If you decide to do this, be sure to only leave the battery in for a few seconds and then quickly remove it just in case you have a short. If the battery feels like it was getting hot, then that would be a good indication that there is a short in your Zmax.
You didn't happen to replace the black plastic washer inside your tube with a metallic one, did you? Sorry, but I just had to ask.
Check inside the battery compartment and make sure that there is nothing foreign (metallic) inside there that can cause the battery positive and the outer stainless steel tube (negative) to make contact with each other. If you have a meter, you can also test for a short. Set your meter to measure resistance and place a meter lead on the inside of the tube where the positive contact on the battery touches and the other meter lead to the outside body of the tube (where you place the color of the meter leads make no difference). If you measure a low resistance, then something is wrong with your Zmax circuit that is causing the battery to short and maximum current to flow.
Have you tried a different battery? If you decide to do this, be sure to only leave the battery in for a few seconds and then quickly remove it just in case you have a short. If the battery feels like it was getting hot, then that would be a good indication that there is a short in your Zmax.
You didn't happen to replace the black plastic washer inside your tube with a metallic one, did you? Sorry, but I just had to ask.
You should use unprotected safe-chemistry batteries like IMR or hybrids rated for high amp drain. Protected batteries are not a good choice for an APV.
If the batteries were working fine in your SVD then maybe they were about to fail anyway. My guess is they would have failed eventually in either rig.
I'm guessing that the copper coil Freeo mentions is part of a protected battery circuit board and the burnt plastic is the battery wrapper.
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Thank you sir for the valuable information. I pulled the trigger on a V5 and so far it's a great little device. Any further advice, if you deem necessary, will be appreciated as well. . .
The telescopic tube of the V3 and V5 is one it's strongest features allowing quick adjustment for batteries of different sizes (18350, 18490, 18500, 18650, 2x18350) without the need for extension tubes. The telescopic tube is also the Achilles heel of these devices if the tubes are adjusted too tightly. If the tube is tightened to the point of flattening the battery spring (and beyond) the circuit boards can break free from their glue joints in the tube causing all kinds of issues requiring repair.
Basically, don't compress the battery spring more than 1/2 way for any sized battery.
Here is more than you ever wanted to know about telescopic battery tube adjustment.
V3 and V5 telescopic battery tube adjustment
Basically, don't compress the battery spring more than 1/2 way for any sized battery.
Here is more than you ever wanted to know about telescopic battery tube adjustment.
V3 and V5 telescopic battery tube adjustment
Welcome!
We definately need more info freeo!
Sounds like you had a battery without a protective ring and wrapper on the positive side and you put it in backwards. Causing a short. But this would also leave a weld mark somewhere.
For the spring to have burn marks it would have to be a short at the battery. A battery would not short on the negative side that needs to be at the spring. The short had to occur at the positive side; whether upside down with not protective wrap or something in the tube at the positive side shorting to the body but you would have a weld on the top positive side in the tube.
Or you in fact had a bad battery.
Do not use a protected battery in any modern mod. Safe chemistry batteries only.
What type of battery? Pictures would be great!
Please respond inquiring minds want to know.
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I couldn't agree more that one of the main failures of the Zmax is the circuit board breaking loose due to pressure from the battery. Some users have reported that this failure has occurred even when taking great care to not over-tighten the telescopic tube (myself included). I personally suspect that this occurs when not enough glue is used at the factory. Regardless of the cause, users should definitely be aware and take precautions. Anyone not familiar with Yzer's "battery adjustment guide" should definitely take the time to read that and get familiarized.
I know I've brought this up before, but the glue bond for the U-support is not the only failure point that can cause a shift in the circuit card. The U-support can also break where the circuit card pushes against the "end-stops" in both plastic slots that the circuit card rests in (see red circled areas of the U-support in the image below).
I prefer an end-stop failure over the U-support glue breaking loose because it's easier to repair - you can just insert a 2mm spacer under the top cap. The U-support remains glued to the body and should never break loose in the future because there is no pressure on it anymore (pressure falls on the spacer instead).
If the glue bond breaks for the U-support, I would align and re-glue the U-support back to the inside of the tube which takes a little longer. I like to have all the pressure from the battery push against the 2mm spacer instead of the U-support, so I always file away the end-stops in the U-support slots. This lets the circuit card move solidly up against the 2mm spacer when it's under pressure. In a situation where the end-stops were already broken out of the U-support, that would save me from having to remove them. Some might argue that re-gluing the U-support to the inside of the tube is not really necessary since the U-support would be limited to spinning inside the tube by the outer button, but I like to completely eliminate any minor movement (just my personal preference).
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I have had 2 things happen to the zmax 5 the weeks I have used it.
1. It showed ohm before normal window display on button push. Solved by taking out the battery
2. Strangely it changed from 9 ow to 11
Compared to the svd the button still works and it does not shutdown all the time.
The svd is a strange beast for weeks the button works 50% of the time, then it works perfect, then 50% again.
1. It showed ohm before normal window display on button push. Solved by taking out the battery
2. Strangely it changed from 9 ow to 11
Compared to the svd the button still works and it does not shutdown all the time.
The svd is a strange beast for weeks the button works 50% of the time, then it works perfect, then 50% again.
If I remember correctly, you'll get the ohms display if you install the battery while holding down the fire button. You may have done that by accident while installing the battery. You can reset the device by re-seating the battery, but you figured that out on your own.
I've also had my V5 increase a few watts once or twice since I've owned it (about 5 months now). All I could figure was that I somehow got into the wattage menu by accident, however I haven't noticed that happening to me since I replaced the button so I'm at a loss to explain it. Maybe it was just a gremlin caused by a low battery. It hasn't happened to me in quite a while, so your guess is as good as mine. I'm not all that concerned about it frankly because it's rare that it happens.
I did a quick search regarding your Innokin SVD button issue and found this thread. I don't know if it's the same version you have, but it doesn't look like a repair for the faint of heart. You have to separate the two circuit boards to access the switch which passes through a hole in the upper board (that isn't easy to do). It's a smaller tactile switch than the replacement switch we are using for the Sigelei V3 and V5 (about half the size). The original poster in that thread took the original button apart and cleaned the inside of the switch instead of replacing it. If you opted to replace it with a new one, I'm sure a replacement button could be found on the Digikey website. However, you'd need to measure the original button dimensions to find a suitable match. Best of luck, and I hope you get that resolved.
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The clear acrylic window that covers the OLED screen in my V5 came out. I've had this V5 for about 5 months now. A couple of days ago, I noticed that it felt a little loose and seemed to move slightly under my finger. It finally came out all the way last night while I was watching TV. I ran my finger across the edge of the window and it fell in my lap. I'm lucky it didn't fall out while I was walking around or I probably would have never found it again. Occasionally, I wipe down my V5 with a Kleenex that I've moistened with alcohol that I keep in a small spray bottle. It's possibly that the alcohol dissolved or softened the original glue over time.
I'll be gluing it back on with some soft silicone-based glue today or tomorrow as time permits. I've had to do this on my two other V3's at one time or another in the past and it's worked very well for me. For the time being, I'm using a piece of clear scotch tape to cover the gap to keep out the dust and debris.
I'll be gluing it back on with some soft silicone-based glue today or tomorrow as time permits. I've had to do this on my two other V3's at one time or another in the past and it's worked very well for me. For the time being, I'm using a piece of clear scotch tape to cover the gap to keep out the dust and debris.
Yzer, I'm trying to get to that link, but it keeps taking me to this same page
I'd like to gander to make sure I'm not overdriving the telescoping part when I'm running in 18650 mode....Thx
The link works for me. Using the link on Firefox (and most browsers) will open the post in a new tab.Yzer, I'm trying to get to that link, but it keeps taking me to this same page
Thx
It's post #3480 back on 9-15-2014.
Here is a cut & paste.
Sigelei Zmax V3 & V5 telescopic battery tube adjustment
Flat top or button top battery: doesn't matter with these instructions.
-For 18350 battery. Using the tall or short battery caps screw down the telescopic tube to the shortest length. Screw down the battery cap all the way. If the spring in a long battery cap has compressed it may not fit 18350 well. The short battery cap is a better fit with 18350.
-For 2x18350: Use the tall battery cap. The short cap will leave tube threads exposed with 2x18350
-For 18490, 18500 and 18650 batteries using the tall (15mm) battery cap. Place the battery into position in the tube and adjust the tube length until only 1/16" to 1/8" of the battery extends past the end of the tube. Tighten the tall cap all of the way down.
-For 18490, 18500 and 18650 batteries with the short (10mm) battery cap. Place the battery into position in the tube and adjust the tube length so that the base of the battery is 1/8" to 3/16" below the end of the tube. Tighten the cap all of the way down.
Keep in mind that the battery springs found in both the tall battery cap and the short battery cap are the same size. They are identical springs. For all batteries longer than 18350 the goal is compress the spring about 1/2 of its relaxed length regardless of the cap size. The short cap will give you the shortest overall length for the Sigelei with a 18350 battery inside. For 18490, 18500 and 18650 batteries the overall length of the Sigelei for each battery size will be the exactly the same when using either the tall or short battery caps so long as the spring is 1/2 compressed. The only advantage to using one cap or another at sizes above 18350 is the tall cap will be much easier to screw on than the short cap.
Typical lengths I get on Sigelei V3 Telescopic with different batteries. Just an estimate depending on how tight I compress the spring.
18350: 100mm with short battery cap, 105mm with long cap.
18490: 111-114mm with either battery cap, spring 1/2 compressed.
18500: 112-115mm with either battery cap, spring 1/2 compressed.
18650: 127-130mm with either battery cap, spring 1/2 compressed.
2x18350: 132-135mm with the long battery cap, spring 1/2 compressed.
You are welcome. Looking at ECF on mobile can be sketchy. I just checked that link on Firefox mobile for Android and it didn't work. Works just fine on FF on the desktop.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxWyjakcJi14bGNSdFViMUx1VWM/view?usp=sharing
I have a "glitch" on my Zmax V5, sometimes when I hit the button Zmax displays for a second before showing the "normal" display, this goes on until I change or remove the battery. Then goes to "normal", the big question is: How can I do this willingly?
I have a "glitch" on my Zmax V5, sometimes when I hit the button Zmax displays for a second before showing the "normal" display, this goes on until I change or remove the battery. Then goes to "normal", the big question is: How can I do this willingly?
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