Anyone use a kanger T3S? I have a few of them, but i guess the center pin is too far down?
Works with my protank 2, but not with the T3S's.
Works with my protank 2, but not with the T3S's.
Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group
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before I went into RDAs I used evods, and the occasional protank and t3s and it did work ok, see if the t3s coil head is totally screwed into the base, that happened to me a few times and fix the issue
Quick question thinking of buying a zmax because my vamo from fast tech was shipped defective twice.
When using it fully extended with a 18650 battery, since it telescopes and is not flush is it annoying/odd to hold?
Is there any real reason to buy the v5 i don't care about the phone charger, only if they fixed any known issues.
What is the best deal now? Varitube? Do they have any coupon codes.
Thanks
When using it fully extended with a 18650 battery, since it telescopes and is not flush is it annoying/odd to hold?
Is there any real reason to buy the v5 i don't care about the phone charger, only if they fixed any known issues.
What is the best deal now? Varitube? Do they have any coupon codes.
Thanks
I use them with my Provari but haven't yet on the Zmax. Provari requires an adapter. T3's threads bottom out on the outer ring before center pin contact.
I thought it would be awkward with the 18650 because of the space between the main body and the extended ring. It's not an issue. I hold it in my left hand with the end cap resting on the heel of my hand. That puts the fire button under my thumb and my middle finger in the space between the main body and the extended ring. It feels very natural after a day or so and the inset part prevents it from sliding out of my hand.
With the 18650 installed it's about 1/8" long than the Provari. It can use shorter batteries, but I'd rather have the vape time of the 18650 2000mah IMR.
Same here. It's a solid fit and feel in my hand and the indent from the extension is a perfect "notch" for my middle finger (which until now only had a couple of valid uses!).
The V5 comes with an accessory that allows you to use the Sigelei battery to charge another device like a cell phone. It also has a puff counter. If that is useful for you, go with V5. Otherwise V3 will serve you just as well.
I use 18650 and 18500 equally. No, the narrow barrel section when using 18650 doesn't bother me at all. Like Bill H in TX mentioned, it actually improves grip on the device. I'm so used to using both battery configurations that I don't even notice I'm using one or the other. The 18500 travels better and the 18650 usually stays at home.
Anyone using the Panasonic 3000mah 18650 in their V3's? It seems to me that the Segelei drains my AW 18650 IMR batteries just a little faster than my Provari, which I typically use at 3.7v to 4.2v on a 2.5 ohm coil, mostly 3.7. It may be the circuitry using more current or it may be that I like to keep the display set to show me battery voltage on every puff so that I have an idea when it's about to turn off. My 18650's are about a year and a half old, so it may be time for some new ones.
6 watts is normally where I keep it and that gives me a good vape. 3.9v X 2.5 equals about 6 watts, so I'm in the same ballpark with both.
I'd like for the V3 to flash the display when the battery gets low. It is supposed to display LOW VOL when the battery is low, but I'm probably missing it. When it says 3.4v on the display, the next thing that happens is no vape and I change the battery. That's why I like for it to display the battery voltage on every vape. I'm more likely to notice that it's getting low.
6 watts is normally where I keep it and that gives me a good vape. 3.9v X 2.5 equals about 6 watts, so I'm in the same ballpark with both.
I'd like for the V3 to flash the display when the battery gets low. It is supposed to display LOW VOL when the battery is low, but I'm probably missing it. When it says 3.4v on the display, the next thing that happens is no vape and I change the battery. That's why I like for it to display the battery voltage on every vape. I'm more likely to notice that it's getting low.
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The V3 does indeed give a low power power indication. The display on mine says Low Vol (Low Voltage) when the fire button is pressed. That message appears as soon as battery power drops below 3.4 V. This message really doesn't provide any advance notice to change batteries as it seems to appear at the same time the device refuses to fire due to low battery charge. What is does do is tell you why the device didn't fire.
Menu item #5 (LCD Display) allows you select what is displayed every time you hit the fire button. If you want to display the battery voltage you can do that by selecting Battery at menu item #5. I have mine set to show vaping wattage when firing by selecting Voltage at menu item #5 and Power at menu item #7 (Power/Voltage). With this set up I can see battery voltage by hitting menu item #4 and vaping wattage when I hit the fire button.
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I've tried different setups with mine. I've found that I'm more likely to notice low battery voltage if it's displayed every time I vape. I suppose it shows me, but I don't look. I discover the battery shutoff on my next hit.
Wattage changes I can detect when I vape if it's not the same as before. I've had that happen when I changed a battery or changed from wattage to voltage and it reset to 3v. It resets to 3 volts when you change from wattage to voltage, but still retains the wattage setting when you switch back. It seems to retain the wattage setting, but not the voltage setting whether you change it manually or replace the battery. I'd call that a programming glitch. It's not a biggie if you are strictly a wattage setting vaper, but for those who like to play with voltage, it's a small aggravation.
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My V3 never resets a wattage setting. It always remembers my last wattage setting during a battery change. On the other hand, V3 will not remember a voltage setting after a battery change. I think it resets to a default 3.0 volts or something like that. That's one of the reasons why I like using wattage settings instead of voltage on the V3. I vape anywhere from 6.0 to 7.5 watts on a 2.0 ohm carto, usually 6.5 watts.
I always have a spare charged battery handy wherever I go so running out of battery charge suddenly is no biggie for me.
I always have a spare charged battery handy wherever I go so running out of battery charge suddenly is no biggie for me.
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Everywhere I go there's a battery box with a spare 18650 and a filled carto (in case the coil burns out on my Protank). Mine retains the wattage setting after a battery change and not the voltage setting, but there's been a couple of times when I changed the battery that it did strange things.
Today, I was walking across a parking garage toward the elevator and had just changed the battery when I got out of my truck. I was getting a weak vape and I checked the UP setting. It read 3 volts. I set it to Power and then it read 3.0 watts. I cranked it to 6 watts and it worked fine.
Once inside the building I noticed that the sound from the Protank had that rattlesnake hiss again. I checked the power up setting and it was still at 6 watts. I checked the RMS/MEAN setting for mode and it said RMS. I changed to MEAN and it stayed at the rattlesnake hiss sound. That didn't change back to the smooth hiss until I changed to MEAN, hit the fire button, and then changed to RMS again. Then, it sounded nice and smooth from the mouthpiece.
I think that's caused by the rapid fluctuation of voltage when you try to get the threads started while it's initializing the logic. The display comes on and it starts to boot in the middle of screwing the end cap on the battery. Confusion sometimes results when you feed wildly varying supply voltage to logic circuits.
The caption on that logic chart would be "logic state indeterminate".
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Sometimes it takes a couple of tries to get a battery cap threaded right and I can see how intermittent contact with the battery could cause switching issues in the circuitry. It may have happened to me a couple of times, too. One way to avoid this might be to power off the unit at menu item #1 prior to removing the battery and switching it back on following boot-up but this feature seems to function only as switch safety for pocket-carry. The Sigelei V3 will boot-up whether or not menu item #1 is on or off. After a battery is removed, boot-up starts whenever the power circuit is completed by the battery cap.
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Had mine since the 23rd August.
Had to get it replaced last week as the button became somewhat intermittent. New one seems fine so far.
Other than that, it seems like a great mod.
My only issue (and this doesn't seem to be exclusive to the zmax - I've read about Provari users having this issue) is that protanks don't work so well when screwed down all the way. loosening the tank a turn or so makes the vape much better, but then the tank wobbles on the 510 connection.
Had to get it replaced last week as the button became somewhat intermittent. New one seems fine so far.
Other than that, it seems like a great mod.
My only issue (and this doesn't seem to be exclusive to the zmax - I've read about Provari users having this issue) is that protanks don't work so well when screwed down all the way. loosening the tank a turn or so makes the vape much better, but then the tank wobbles on the 510 connection.
I haven't used the Protank or clearomizers much. There is a different issue with using cartos, which I use in a carto tank. After removing and replacing a carto tank a dozen times or more for filling the center post of the carto may compress and fail to make contact with the 510 connector center post. This problem would happen with all carto makes. The solution is easy. I just use a push pin to pry out the center post a mm or so to its correct position. I don't tighten the carto tank down into the 510 connector as far as possible: just far enough to make electrical contact without any wobble on the carto tank.
Whatever works is fine for pulling the center pin out a bit. I've had good success by bending the leg out on a jumbo paper clip and then using needle nose pliers to make the smallest right angle bend I can on the end of the leg. You can stick it in the center pin hole about a MM or so and use it to work the pin out flush or a tiny bit farther. The Protanks come with the center pin flush. This works on my Zmax and my Provari without faults.
A lot depends on the size of the center pin and its alignment.
A lot depends on the size of the center pin and its alignment.
Whatever works is fine for pulling the center pin out a bit. I've had good success by bending the leg out on a jumbo paper clip and then using needle nose pliers to make the smallest right angle bend I can on the end of the leg. You can stick it in the center pin hole about a MM, apply light pressure to wedge it, and use it to work the pin out flush or a tiny bit farther. The Protanks come with the center pin flush. This works on my Zmax and my Provari without faults. Don't insert it all the way up the hole. You'll contact the coil wires where they enter the connector.
A lot depends on the size of the center pin and its alignment. When the outer ring touches the center pin, a fault occurs.
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The Sigelei Zmax V3 flat top is really hard to beat. I would give the best buy award for a 18350 to another make, due it's smaller size. However, 18350 isn't a serous battery size for an ex-smoker. Most serious smokers use up a puny 18350 in a couple of hours. The 18490/18500 to 18650 devices are much better suited for an ex-smoker who wants to quit. Hands down, the Sigelei Zmax wins this award when you compare price to performance.
Look at the cost, how big they are and well they are made. After five months of solid daily use the Sigelie is the big winner in my book for 18490/18500 and 18650 batteries.
Extended warranties? Well, if you are an informed consumer you know how that works whether it be water heaters, cars or dishwashers.
If I were to buy a new Sigelie Zmax V3 telescopic flat top today, I would buy from the vendor who offers the best warranty and not necessarily the best price point.
Look at the cost, how big they are and well they are made. After five months of solid daily use the Sigelie is the big winner in my book for 18490/18500 and 18650 batteries.
Extended warranties? Well, if you are an informed consumer you know how that works whether it be water heaters, cars or dishwashers.
If I were to buy a new Sigelie Zmax V3 telescopic flat top today, I would buy from the vendor who offers the best warranty and not necessarily the best price point.
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