Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

[Jakarta_Colony]

I was hoping some of you guys can help me with some issues I'm having with my Zmax. I was going to start a new thread, but figured I would get more help here. I've gone through some of the pages in here, but not all (130 is a bit much), so any help would be greatly appreciated.

A little backstyory:
I have been using a PT2 tank since I got the telescoping V5 and constantly got burnt taste, so I would have to bring it down to 7-8w to avoid this using the standard Kanger head coils (2.4 and even 1.5 ohm coils). I then got into building my own coils and have been using 28 gauge kanthal wire to build them. My current coil is a 1.5 ohm coil with 28 gauge and cotton wick on my PT2 and I also have a IGO-L that's at 1.3.

Here are my problems:

1. Sometimes the fire button doesn't work. It looks like the black button under the fire button is not completely aligned. Is there a way to fix this?
2. When I try to get up to the higher wattage (11W+), the mod and the tank get really hot. Last night when using the IGO-L (the PT2 as well) at 12W the top cap got so hot I had to wait a little while before touching it to take off. What can be causing this?
3. As the battery gets drained, it automatically lowers the wattage output on me. Isn't the purpose of the VW to keep it consistent until the battery is fully drained?
4. If I'm trying to get to higher wattages (i.e. 11W+), what resistance would you recommend? I bought what I was told was a 30 gauge Kanthal to build some 2.0-2.4 ohm coils to try out, but with 9-10 wraps, it reads out to 3.4 ohms. That and the fact that the wire seems considerably smaller than the 28 I have, makes me think that it's a 32 gauge.

Thanks for your time!

Hi Timastyle,

I had my zmax v5 for 2 months now.. And it's been dropped 2 times from 1.8m heights.

I am using a unitank (using the same coil like your protank 2), an evod, a boge f16 (original and clone), and a ehpro trident clone.

1. I've had never have the same problem like yours. The button is still working great..
2. IMHO, a clearomizer tank could not hold the power to 12 watts. I'll get a burnt taste if I tried to set it at >9.5 watts.
I believed that you've burnt the coil and the wick too much with 12 watts. And I think it's normal if the tank gets hot..
3. Nope.
4. Try to build on 28 gauge kanthal. You can get 1,6-1.8 ohm with 12 wraps on an RBA tank.

Regarding the battery's output :

I'm using 2x Efest V1 18350 800mah and a panasonic 18650 2900mah.

a. On 2x Efest 18350 : It will deliver the maximum output of the zmax v5 (15 watts - I had checked the display by pressing the fire button)
b. On a single 18650 2900mah : The maximum output is around 12.x watts. It's not even went to 13 watts.

Cheers,
I'm and Indonesian, so we say it.. Terima kasih,

 

[Jakarta_Colony]

Double posted..

 

[timastyle]

Thanks Fairmana! I did the shake test. The button stays put and the only thing that makes noise is the plastic fire button. When I put my finger on the plastic button (without pushing all the way down of course) there isn't a sound. I've confirmed that the charger mode is off and that it's set to RMS. I also make sure to power off (Menu #1) prior to putting it in my pocket when it gets warm.

In regards to the coils, I should have noted that I build microcoils (coils touching) on 1/16" drill bit. Unfortunately, neither I nor anyone I know have a micrometer (damn city folk - ), so I'm just taking their word for it.

Yzer - Thanks for the battery tube adjustment. I turn it so that there's still 3 grooves showing, so I'm not overtightening it in that respect. It's just strange. It was working fine the first couple of weeks, but a little more challenging.

JeremyR - Are there safety issues with stacking batteries on a regulated mod like there are for mech mods? Do you still have to use the same ones together all the time or are these limitations not applicable with a regulated mod?

 

[Gato del Jugo]

Those Siegeli batteries are the ones that came in my kit, too..

I've been using them in my V3 for a month & a half now with no issues, aside from them not lasting as long as they 1st did


Yes, there are better & safer ones out there.. but since I'm so cheap, I'll continue to monitor & use them -- for now

I'll probably properly dispose of them prematurely at some point...

EDIT: Forgot to mention that occasionally I'll experience a localized warm spot where the battery is. It's not heat from my hand; it's from the battery

Yes, I'm playing with fire.. fully aware of the risks


I just put it down & stop vaping for a few minutes.. afterwards, it's fine

Doesn't happen very often, and I really should dispose of these batteries.. I don't recommend them...

 

[Gato del Jugo]

I'm wondering guys, how do you like the durability of the zMax v3? I'm not expecting ProVari class durability, but would like to know if you have any known issues to be on guard for.

It's nice for the price, and it is fairly solid..


The only real issue, which is well-documented in this thread, is the potential of the internals shifting

However, there is a fix, also in this thread, should it ever get to that point where it's affecting performance.. as far as I can see, it's only cosmetic at this point for mine


This was my 1st APV purchase.. after doing a bunch of homework for this price-range, I'm glad I got it


P.S. I'll never understand the wattage vs. voltage thing.. It's really not a big deal... I sometimes switch up or down a little, regardless if it's watts or volts... Personally, I much rather prefer the accuracy of those settings...

 

[yzer]

On the bright side of the internal shifting issue we haven't seen many reports of this since Sigelei began production of the new generation V3 and V5 with the removable top caps. We know the new display and board mounts don't eliminate the possibility of this problem occurring but maybe they are helping. We also know that an additional spacer at the top end of the boards would be a good idea provided Sigelei makes this modification.

Another problem that would pop up with the first generation V3 from time to time was the brass eGo threading. It could come loose and fall out. That problem was eliminated with the one-piece stainless steel 510/eGo threading included with the removable top cap.

Also, I haven't seen many reports of failed control switches lately.

 

[fairmana]

I've been considering whether or not to post my overall experience with the Sigelei V3, mainly because I don't want to scare anyone away from this device. When this APV works, it works well and I've very satisfied with it. I get the feeling that the majority of customers who bought this device have not had problems with it. However I must say that of the 5 Sigelei's that I've come in contact with, that unfortunately has not been the case for me. Each of those 5 Sigelei V3’s has developed some sort of problem either right off the bat, or over time. I realize that very few products are sold without some small percentage of them being defective, but in all fairness to this thread I really feel like I need to pass along what I've experienced thus far.

So here goes…

I purchased my first Sigelei V3 back around April of 2013 (original older version). I was happy with it, and after a week or two I recommended it to my Dad, who ordered one for himself. Very soon after that, we both started to experience intermittent problems with the device firing when the button was pressed. This also caused us to go into the menu when we didn’t want to be there and accidentally change settings. It turned out to be that the button was making intermittent contact when pressed. Eventually, I replaced the button on both devices and both of them have been working great up until today.

Just prior to Christmas 2013, I bought a backup Sigelei V3 for myself and for my Dad (both are the newer version). After a week or two, my internal circuit card broke loose and shifted toward the top. The device still worked, but it bothered me enough that I took it apart and inserted a spacer under the top cap so that the circuit card could rest against something and not move. My Dad’s new version Sigelei V3 worked OK for a few days, and then developed some sort of humidity under the glass of the display. I took it apart, wiped off the screen, and left the circuit card out to dry for a full day. I didn’t see any other moisture inside. When I put it back together, the moisture under the glass came back. My Dad has been using it this way, and tells me that the upper part of the screen has dried up, but the lower portion is still cloudy, but readable. I still don’t know if this is caused by a component that is off-gassing when heated, or if e-juice is finding its way to the internals through the top gasket next to the positive pin. He lives 6 hours away, so I can’t really take a closer look until I visit next time.

The fifth Sigelei V3 was also purchased just prior to Christmas, and is also a newer version. I ordered it as a favor to my friend’s wife who wanted to get him one for Christmas. His internal circuit card also broke loose, and so I installed a spacer under the top cap to eliminate any further shifting. In his case, he was using flat top 18650’s, so when the board shifted the battery would make intermittent contact with the positive pin inside the device, which was a big problem for him. The spacer fixed that. However, he also complained that since he got the device, once in a while it would shut off and he couldn’t get it to turn back on right away. This problem got more severe as time went on. He brought it to me last week saying that it wouldn’t work more than a few hours at a time, and had to wait several hours before it would finally come back on. Occasionally while trying to get it back on, the display would come up distorted and be unreadable. Taking it apart again, I found that there was a little bit of e-juice on the circuit card (he vapes menthol so it was also very easy to identify from the smell). He swore he never spilled any down by the switch, which aside from the battery compartment, “should” be the only place liquid can enter the device. I cleaned up the circuit card with alcohol and an acid brush and blew it dry with my air compressor. I was also quite surprised to find that 2 legs on the switch (one side) were not soldered to the board, so I soldered those down properly. I suspect it only made contact because of the downward force when pressing the button. At this point, I soldered an 18650 battery holder to the card so I could test it outside the tube and inserted an 18650 battery. I got the same bad results as before (garbled display upon first power-up, and then nothing if I removed the battery and then tried it again). I examined the board and re-soldered a few “questionable” solder contacts. I had to walk away from it for a day as it sat on my bench. When I came back to it the next day, all of a sudden it seemed to work fine. I put it back in the tube and vaped on it for a few hours until it suddenly died again. It sits on my bench right now and that’s as far as I’ve gotten. I’m beginning to suspect a bad component. I did notice some small cracks in the grommet that surrounds the positive post down inside the 510 connector. I’m wondering if this allowed e-juice to enter the tube. It makes me want to take a closer look at that on my Dad’s Sigelei V3 to see if that is where the “moisture” is coming from on his. My friend has ordered a replacement and hopefully it will work for him without issues.

Anyway, that’s the gist of my experience with this device (5 of them). Again, I don’t want to scare anyone away from the Sigelei V3 because it is a good device when it works and is taken care of. If these type problems were much more common, I suspect we’d be seeing a lot more complaints in this thread. Although we’ve seen a few, I get the feeling that they are not the norm.

 

[JeremyR]

Yeah fair I was on the same fence as you.. Its a Good device, best I've had overall. They need to use a different switch its the major flaw for me. Looks like I may have to tear down the switch soon. Unfortunately there is no perfect device yet. Even provaris break, shift boards, they just have repair coverage. Still this is the most durable mod for the price and it looks great!

I don't think and other apv, except a provari, would still be working after the abuse I have put it through. ( my big problem with ather mods was always the 510 stripping or falling out after a month

 

[fairmana]

The price (~$40) is definitely a big consideration and I think it's a good value for the cost. If it were to cost closer to $100 or more my overall opinion would differ since I'd be expecting more from it. Another important aspect to consider is that some of us have the ability and the willingness to repair the majority of the problems we've encountered on this thread so far, so we might have a tendency to downplay some of those issues. Not everyone is in the same boat and those individuals who are less technically inclined may have different expectations.

 

[JeremyR]

As far as overtightening, I tighten the the tube until there is not wobble (assuming a 18650 battery is in it). At first, I wouldn't tighten it as much and the bottom half of the tube would wobble, so I started tightening it up enough where that wouldn't be an issue. I'm not sure if this is considered overtightening.

Yes this is over tightened, it will dislodge your board. How soon Depends on how much glue the assembler used. Each of these is assembled by hand, from what I've gathered, so there are inconsistencies.

You should remove the bottom cap and make the tube flush with the battery or battery extending no more than 1/8". Make note of where telescopic tube is In relation to the grooves.

You do need to use noalox on the threads. I also use foil on the threads, like a plumbers tape. It tightens the tube threads and improves contact. *Just do not let any foil get into the battery compartment or you can cause a Dead short if a large piece falls in.

 

[Gato del Jugo]

I've been considering whether or not to post my overall experience with the Sigelei V3...

Wow, not very good luck with those at all..

Question: Were they all from the same vendor?


I think it's important for anybody to share stuff like this, for various reasons.. no matter which make & model they own

I know mine will eventually start acting up.. all these things have a shelf-life, wherever they're made

People have to keep in mind that it's the Chinese business model.. build them cheap, sell them cheap.. when they break, rich American will buy another one since these products are inexpensive.. wash, rinse, repeat

At some point, a vaper might want to consider breaking that cycle


And yep, even more expensive American-made ones can break, like ProVari, Zen, etc... one difference being, as Jeremy mentioned, is repair coverage.. sometimes even if it's out-of-warranty, they'll fix it for free... but I'd reckon as a whole, they break a lot less than Chinese-made ones


For somebody like me, who was spending $250/month on analogs, I'm more apt to justify the extra expense for American quality & coverage, even if I'm now not at exactly the best financial position

I bought a ProVari almost a month ago... Not going to lie: expensive as all heck, had never previously held one in my hand or even saw one in person, wondered what the heck I was doing... But guess what? It's a damn quality device.. and would love to be able to get a 2nd one someday... I think it's worth it, as are probably most/all American-made regulated devices

Both this & my Sig take turns all day long... still consider my Sig to be the back-up

Sorry, yzer.. but a Sig is not a ProVari...

I vape them both side-by-side... there is a difference in quality, appearance, feel, materials, design, build, workmanship, and yes, even vape... Even though it's not perfect, I'd rather have 1 ProVari than 3 or 4 Sigs


It was an upfront hit to the wallet.. but in the long run, it will more than make up for it... There's also an excellent re-sale value, should it ever come to that, even for older versions

Speaking from experience, I think all vapers should try to save up some bucks & explore some American-made ones out there.. Maybe shop any sales, or in the clearance bin, and/or get verified here & shop the classified section


Honestly, I think I'm going to try hard as heck to stay away from Chinese APVs from now on.. I see too many people having too many issues with too many different devices

The Sig is nice for the money.. And so is the ProVari

I will leave it at that...

 

[yzer]

Sorry, yzer.. but a Sig is not a ProVari...

I know you are kidding but I never claimed the Sigelei was as good an APV as a Provari. If I ever buy a Provari it would be for the smaller size per battery. The Sigelei Zmax Telescopics are more to my liking. The Sigelei in 18350 mode (100mm) is small enough for me, if fact most of time I use 18500. I like the VW and most of all the battery versatility the Provari doesn't have, either the Mini or Standard. My experience with Sigelei durability has been good enough that it makes sense to me to own one till it fails and just buy another rather than buy a Provari and pay for extended warranties or individual repairs. I also have the option of fixing a Sigelei myself as I'm fairly proficient with a soldering pencil and have electronics parts stores nearby. For $40 I can order a new Sigelei and get it in my mailbox a lot faster than if I took the Provari repair route.

 

[TractorWill]

Yes this is over tightened, it will dislodge your board. How soon Depends on how much glue the assembler used. Each of these is assembled by hand, from what I've gathered, so there are inconsistencies.

You should remove the bottom cap and make the tube flush with the battery or battery extending no more than 1/8". Make note of where telescopic tube is In relation to the grooves.

You do need to use noalox on the threads. I also use foil on the threads, like a plumbers tape. It tightens the tube threads and improves contact. *Just do not let any foil get into the battery compartment or you can cause a Dead short if a large piece falls in.

Sorry if this is a novice question, but should I noalox the 510 connection and flat top cap or just the battery cap?

 

[JeremyR]

No not the 510 at all. the primary concern is the telescoping threads. The ground contact at the threads can be weak. A sure Sign of a poor ground is that the body will heat up around the threads. You can also put it on the battery cap too.

 

[MissKitty47]

Aavwstus
As asbestos
Sent by my cat through pure magic

 

[timastyle]

Yes this is over tightened, it will dislodge your board. How soon Depends on how much glue the assembler used. Each of these is assembled by hand, from what I've gathered, so there are inconsistencies.

You should remove the bottom cap and make the tube flush with the battery or battery extending no more than 1/8". Make note of where telescopic tube is In relation to the grooves.

You do need to use noalox on the threads. I also use foil on the threads, like a plumbers tape. It tightens the tube threads and improves contact. *Just do not let any foil get into the battery compartment or you can cause a Dead short if a large piece falls in.

Thanks JeremyR! I'm sure it's covered somewhere but what does Noalax do to help?

 

[fairmana]

Wow, not very good luck with those at all..

Question: Were they all from the same vendor?

No, I can't say that we've had the best of luck unfortunately, but at least 4 of the 5 are operational and usable right now.

My first one (older version) was purchased from VaporHeads.net in April of 2013. I want to say that my Dad got his older version a week or two later from the same site but I'm not quite positive about that. The other 3 new version V3's came from DesertVapes and were purchased mid December in two separate orders.

I should say that I never had the impression that where I purchased them had anything to do with the final outcome and I'm not out to give these vendors a bad name. Realistically, all they likely did was order in bulk from Sigelei and then ship them out individually to customers. These V3's weren't mistreated in any way before I got them and there wasn't any damage or tampering that was evident in the packaging. Just the luck of the draw I guess (or bad luck of the draw I should probably say).

 

[MissKitty47]

Asbestos sure ate my vagina xander castings!!

Sent by my cat through pure magic

 

[fairmana]

Thanks JeremyR! I'm sure it's covered somewhere but what does Noalax do to help?

Check out this post which should help.

 

[MissKitty47]

Vagina asbestos fitness diogenes

Sent by my cat through pure magic