Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

[yzer]

Yes, the Siglei Zmax Telescopic V3/V5 is a significant upgrade from a Spinner. These are the best VV/VW telescopic tube mods out there but I'm biased, of course. If your friend wants similar quality without the telescopic tube look at the sigelei Zmax V2. All offer the same performance specs and sigelei build quality. V5 is a V3 with addition of a different OLED display, puff counter and cell phone charger.

 

[MBP3]

Would you recommend the V3 or V5...it's a $10 or so difference. I don't care much for the USB charger. Does the V3 show battery life like the V5 does?

 

[Nailz]

I have a v5 and it shows the battery life when fire it, don't have a v3, but think you have to set the display to show battery level when it fires, hence why I prefer the v5, never have and never intend to use the usb cap that came with it.

 

[yzer]

When set up as shown in Post #1 the V3 OLED display shows battery voltage at Menu Item #4 and shows the firing power in watts every time the fire button is pressed. That's the way I run mine.

 

[vapnstuff]

For what it's worth, RTD vapors has the Sigelei Zmax Mini V3 Silver and Black on sale for $36.99. Had to do it. I know I said I was going to stick to my vapor budget, and I have...I think I'm working on August now.

 

[fairmana]

Sorry to jump in here with a request, but can you mount a Kayfun flush, as in no gap between the topper and device? Thanks in advance!

I have a Kayfun light plus clone, and it doesn't quite sit flush. There is a small gap when the Kayfun is screwed all the way down against the top of the Sigelei's 510 connector. However, if you have the newer version V3 with the threaded top cap, you can just unscrew the top cap a little until it's snug up against the bottom of the Kayfun. That's what I do with mine and I dig it. I've been doing that with any tank I use on my V3 because not only does it look better, but more importantly it helps support the tank in case you drop it so you're less likely to snap off the tank's 510 connection.

 

[HawaiiVPR]

I have a Kayfun light plus clone, and it doesn't quite sit flush. There is a small gap when the Kayfun is screwed all the way down against the top of the Sigelei's 510 connector. However, if you have the newer version V3 with the threaded top cap, you can just unscrew the top cap a little until it's snug up against the bottom of the Kayfun. That's what I do with mine and I dig it. I've been doing that with any tank I use on my V3 because not only does it look better, but more importantly it helps support the tank in case you drop it so you're less likely to snap off the tank's 510 connection.

Thanks for the reply. Do you think its possible to use a thin o-ring on the bottom of the threaded cap to push it up enough to sit flush, which also helps it to stay in place?

 

[JeremyR]

I got mine from varitube for 74.95 for the kit. Tinkering with it since I got it, it seems that the control board is threaded into something or held into place by something other than glue. I took my finger and pushed and twisted as hard as I could on the bottom of the board and it would not budge, so I think they took into consideration the complaints and made a sweet mod. It is really solid if I do say so myself. I also have the 18650 in it at the moment and torqued it down as much as I could(I know not smart but I had to see if it was junk) and the display didn't budge. I think they built a winner this time.

Your pressing your luck right there. It always seems tight when new. I guess if you don't mind taking it apart you'll be fine.. Then you can take pics and we can see if there are any changes. Maybe they have made improvements..... Can you look in the screen at different angles with a tiny flash light and see anything different specifically retainer towards the top, or a full tube support as that would probably be the best option for them.

 

[vapnstuff]

Would you recommend it as an upgrade from the spinner? I myself have an MVP but I am asking for a friend who wants a tube mod.
Since it's the same price as the vamo, should he go for this?

Yes, the Siglei Zmax Telescopic V3/V5 is a significant upgrade from a Spinner. These are the best VV/VW telescopic tube mods out there but I'm biased, of course. ...

I've got 4 Spinners (1300mah) and a MVP 2.0 and have to agree with Yzer. I like the vw of the MVP (I'm just naturally lazy) and started carrying it instead of the spinners but would go back and forth depending on the situation. When I started with the V3, I used the MVP less at home; the V3 just felt more comfortable but was too long with the 18650 battery for my pocket. Then I got a couple more V3's and put a 18350 in one of them so it's like a mini ... Now my MVP usually keeps my spinners company at home, especially with a zmax mini on the way. Also, the spinners are nice but seem to heat up quicker, if I "chain vape", than the V3 ... could just be my imagination though.

 

[TractorWill]

I noticed a little annoyance with my V5. I switch between tanks quite often during the day, and I typically set the LCD display to show resistance. When I replace the battery, the display goes back to voltage. Not the end of the world, but something I'd like to see fixed in an updated version.

 

[p.opus]

I noticed a little annoyance with my V5. I switch between tanks quite often during the day, and I typically set the LCD display to show resistance. When I replace the battery, the display goes back to voltage. Not the end of the world, but something I'd like to see fixed in an updated version.

I'm with you there. Actually I would like just a setting to check ohms. I only check that when I put on a new topper. Then I can set my LCD display to battery remaining so that I can monitor how much juice I have left while I'm using it.

 

[fairmana]

Do you think its possible to use a thin o-ring on the bottom of the threaded cap to push it up enough to sit flush, which also helps it to stay in place?

Since an o-ring is made out of flexible rubber, I doubt you could keep the top cap from rotating down against the o-ring when you’re screwing down the Kayfun, but that’s just a guess. You’d have to try and see if you could tighten the top cap against an o-ring firmly enough that you’d be satisfied with the results.

You can try a “thread-locker” fluid on the top cap threads to keep the top cap in place, but I doubt you are looking for a solution that would be a pain to undo later. Some sort of round spacer under the top cap would be ideal, but it would probably be hard to find one the right size or fabricate something like that yourself.

It only takes like 2 seconds adjust the top cap each time you remove or replace the Kayfun, so an o-ring, etc. just isn’t worth the hassle IMO. Doing this manually seems to mate the top cap and Kayfun much better anyway, and you also know that the Kayfun is screwed down far enough to make a good electrical connection "before" you adjust the top cap up to meet it. Using a spacer that is just a hair too tall could create a problem for you in that regard.

The only thing I personally might consider using an o-ring for in that spot is to help hide the “thread gap” that is visible when you have the top cap threaded up to meet the Kayfun, but that’s just a minor aesthetics issue.

 

[HawaiiVPR]

Got it, thanks again for the update!

 

[White_rabbitt]

I think they make some eGo "beauty rings" that might close that gap.

 

[lulu836]

I think they make some eGo "beauty rings" that might close that gap.

I have a boat load of those things and have tried every way from Sunday to use them. No go. The curvature of the beauty ring lengthens the distance to the firing pin so there is no contact.

 

[VapieDan]

I have a Kayfun light plus clone, and it doesn't quite sit flush. There is a small gap when the Kayfun is screwed all the way down against the top of the Sigelei's 510 connector. However, if you have the newer version V3 with the threaded top cap, you can just unscrew the top cap a little until it's snug up against the bottom of the Kayfun. That's what I do with mine and I dig it. I've been doing that with any tank I use on my V3 because not only does it look better, but more importantly it helps support the tank in case you drop it so you're less likely to snap off the tank's 510 connection.

I have found with certain attys the gap allows more airflow. I am not entirely opposed to gaps with devices.

 

[fairmana]

I have found with certain attys the gap allows more airflow. I am not entirely opposed to gaps with devices.

Depending on the tank you use, allowing for a gap to let air flow may be a must. However the Kanger Protank style tanks that I use have airflow channels cut into the bottom of them that allows air flow even if they are mounted flush. My Kayfun clone pulls in air through a hole in the side at the base and not through the bottom, so that can sit flush as well. These are the only tanks that I currently use. If a tank allows me to mount it flush, then I do it simply because I'm tired of bending (or snapping off) the 510 connector on them when I drop them. I've ruined several tanks that way. Even when mounted flush, I'm sure you can still damage that connector if you drop your device hard enough, but the extra support around the outside is a big help and so far I've had good luck with it.

 

[pnut599]

Hey everyone,
I just ordered my first separate battery MOD and this one is it:
Authentic Sigelei Zmax V3 Flat Top Telescope- Body, Batteries, Case, & Charger!

I'm really excited. I own a few ego's and an MVP2. I have a question about batteries. Does someone have an explanation for dummies on flat top and button top? I don't know what this kit comes with, but I did order an extra 18650. https://varitube.3dcartstores.com/s...000mah+18650&search.x=11&search.y=6&search=GO

Is there a reason you would want one over the other? Button top or flat top?
I understand there are some dangers with extra batteries, but I can't seem to get a clear explanation of what they are. I know keep them in a case when not it use, but is there something you can tell me I should know that's most important? I would rather not blow my face off.
Just any input on the batteries would be great. Anything specific with the Segelei I should know? If I bought more batteries as spares, anyone recommend any? Why is the 30amp Sony such a big deal?

Sorry I'm a little all over the place, but I really am all over the place
Thanks in advance,
Dana

 

[yzer]

Welcome to the group pnut and hope you like the V3!

You can use either button top or flat top batteries in the V3 and V5. I prefer flat top IMR batteries and use mostly the Efest V1 IMR 18500. I also use 18650 a lot at home. Once in a while I use 18350 if I want the Sigelei V3 at it's smallest length.

For Efest IMR the V1 is the flat top and V2 is button top. The only difference between the two is that the positive terminal connection is about 1 mm taller on the button tops.

I usually buy Efest IMR at Crystal Clear Vaping. The flat top V1 cost less.
Efest Batteries

AW is another good IMR brand. These will perform better than the Efests at the upper wattage range of the Sigelei. I vape around 7.0 watts and find the Efest IMRs to be my best buy.
Genuine AW Batteries at RTD Vapor

I hear that some mods can not use flat top batteries. The Provari is the only one I know of. Maybe the Provari uses a mechanical fitting for button tops to achieve reverse battery protection. Sigelei doesn't need to as it uses electronics for reverse battery protection. I have no plans on buying a Provari in the future so I take advantage of flat top batts.

 

[VapieDan]

Welcome to the group pnut and hope you like the V3!

You can use either button top or flat top batteries in the V3 and V5. I prefer flat top IMR batteries and use mostly the Efest V1 IMR 18500. I also use 18650 a lot at home. Once in a while I use 18350 if I want the Sigelei V3 at it's smallest length.

For Efest IMR the V1 is the flat top and V2 is button top. The only difference between the two is that the positive terminal connection is about 1 mm taller on the button tops.

I usually buy Efest IMR at Crystal Clear Vaping. The flat top V1 cost less.
Efest Batteries

AW is another good IMR brand. These will perform better than the Efests at the upper wattage range of the Sigelei. I vape around 7.0 watts and find the Efest IMRs to be my best buy.
Genuine AW Batteries at RTD Vapor

I hear that some mods can not use flat top batteries. The Provari is the only one I know of. Maybe the Provari uses a mechanical fitting for button tops to achieve reverse battery protection. Sigelei doesn't need to as it uses electronics for reverse battery protection. I have no plans on buying a Provari in the future so I take advantage of flat top batts.

What no Provari! Shame Shame! What is not to like about a 1960's segment leds and no variable wattage.