Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

[JeremyR]

Omron is for sure is gonna be good quality... I thought it was 5, Is the throw on those 4.3 shorter? Does it work fine without the build up? I think I would like a button that doesn't stick out as far and was thinking a small oring on top of the button to keep it pulled In more.

I've been getting along with my sigelie pretty well. I've found the noalox really helps a lot. When I get a lot of misfires I reload the noalox at all ground contacts. Really reduces the problems but at some point I will be looking to replace the Button. I still haven't opened mine up since long ago, nor has it popped the cap since I punched it.

Still my all day every day rugged vape!

 

[Deckacards]

What to do with the button issue when Noalox doesn't cut it anymore???
I've had my V5 for about 4 months now; never over tightened, always been well taken care of, never dropped. I've had button issues before but they always went away with a good cleaning on the threads and a little Noalox. All of a sudden now, nothing seems to work... The black insert inside the button is still properly aligned and the LCD display is perfectly aligned. It's maddening to press the button and nothing happens, or some menu items is randomly being messed up, etc... I even used pressurized air to clean around the button and inside, to no avail... Any other ideas or is it just time for a new mod?

Vantagebox,

I've had the same problem happen to my V5 around 2 months after owning it. I cleaned the threads, applied Noalox, and put the utmost care into my unit as it's the only PV I own. Still, my Zmax misfired and randomly threw me into the Power Up and Power Down menu options when the only thing I wanted was a taste of my Ultimate Vanilla e-juice. I had these problems even before a fall off my foot and half high couch knocked my screen and button sensor towards my atty. My solution at the time? I dealt with it and put a ridiculous amount of pressure on the button hoping for the best. After the fall, all hope was lost... until last month.

Here's what worked for me regarding the button, and what saved me the little bit of sanity I have left. This finding is purely anecdotal, and your mileage may vary.

When the button has misfired 2 or 3 attempts in a row:

1. Ensure the button and your thumb is dry. Push down on the button with as much force as you've been doing when simply expecting the button to misfire due to past failed attempts. I usually applied twice as much pressure to the button in this situation compared to the first month of owning the unit.
2. While holding the button down, turn the button 45 degrees in any direction. Your atty may be firing at this time, or as my luck may have it, your zmax may be suggesting to turn the LCD off. Whatever the case, turn the button.
3. Let go of the button. Wait 5 seconds. Push the button once again, but apply a normal amount of pressure. If the Zmax misfires, repeat steps 1 and 2, making sure to turn the button in the same direction. If the Zmax fires like a brand new unit at the slightest of press, enjoy the use of your advanced PV.

Typically, I'll have to rotate the button 45-90 degrees 1 or 2 times per day. I'm a moderate user, vaping 3-4 ml / 24 hours. This has completely prevented my Zmax from constantly misfiring day after day. If you find it hard to turn the button using your thumb, use a set of needle nose pliers. You don't need the button to be pressed while turning using the pliers.

Also, congratulations on surpassing 2000 posts ECF! This thread has been an invaluable resource for troubleshooting my Zmax in the past. Here's to 3000, and I hope to check back with you before then.

 

[tunggua]

My method is very similar with Deckacards, which is press and rotate. Works everytime, but the issue will come back again after few days,sometimes the next day.

To me, this issue feels like non-contact of the switch and everytime I press and rotate, it seems to be cleaning the contacts with friction.
Being a 2 month old V5,felt kinda heartbroken. So one day, I took a can of electronic contact cleaner and blasted thru the gaps between the button and body(battery tubes removed,oriented right way up as in screen above button to prevent the contact cleaner dripping on the screen). Then kept pressing and rotating the button left and right for couple of min.

Seems to be working very well coz it's been 2 weeks straight with zero issues and felt like a brand new unit.

I think the screen cover can be peeled off for better access to the switch.

 

[MrsP0721]

It's a little concerning that so many people seem to be having the same issue. I'm about to buy my second V5 and I'm starting to rethink that move! I love my other Sigeleis but I know all too well about having button issues, I've been fortunate enoigh to only have that problem on one of them so far (knock on wood) and don't really want to deal with it on another one!

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Express using Tapatalk

 

[JeremyR]

+1 decka & tungua !!! Rotating the contacts in the switch does work pretty good... Thanks guys I forgot about that, .. doh.. My switch is working a little better now.

Oh don't forget yzers 100 click fix to clean the pitting off along with a twist of contacts

 

[fairmana]

Omron is for sure is gonna be good quality... I thought it was 5, Is the throw on those 4.3 shorter? Does it work fine without the build up? I think I would like a button that doesn't stick out as far and was thinking a small oring on top of the button to keep it pulled In more.

I've been getting along with my sigelie pretty well. I've found the noalox really helps a lot. When I get a lot of misfires I reload the noalox at all ground contacts. Really reduces the problems but at some point I will be looking to replace the Button. I still haven't opened mine up since long ago, nor has it popped the cap since I punched it.

Still my all day every day rugged vape!

I've been pushing Noalox since day 1 and to me, it's a must. When I first got my Sig, I saw how Noalox cleared up some intermittent problems I was having, so I'm always sure to keep my Noalox fresh so everything is working tip-top. I'm 100% certain that my button issue is not related to a continuity problem in my threads or battery cap. I wish it was, because that would be an easy fix.

The "throw" on the replacement switch that I've used in the past was basically the same as the original. I can't say on the 2 other substitutes I'm looking at but based on the size and function of these tactile switches, I would bet they the throw is basically identical. Reducing the distance that your clear button sticks out of the Sig is an interesting idea and probably do-able as you described. I guess you'd just have to give it a shot and see. If you try it, let us know how it worked out for you. I'd be interested to know.

This button replacement I'm about to perform on my newer gen V3 is the 3rd one I've had to do (2nd for me and once for my Dad's Sig). Several of us on this thread had hoped that when they upgraded to the latest gen V3 that they had started to use a better quality button, but from what I've seen, I don't think they did.

Based on my search for a good replacement button, I'm beginning to suspect that "tactile switches" of this size and type are just not cut out for this kind of use over the long haul. Mainly, I have not been able to find a tactile switch that is "clicky" and at the same time durable enough to exceed about 100,000 button presses. I think Sigelei was forced to opt for a clicky feeling button with the tradeoff that they would have a reduced lifespan. However, we've seen how that these switches can begin to fail before their life expectancy. That may be caused by using additional force to depress the button beyond what is necessary for the switch to make contact, or the fact that they are not sealed against contamination.

I'm considering that the higher lifespan tactile switches that I've seen can boast 1 to 3 million button presses "because" they are less clicky. They are likely superior because they don't require much force to engage, and that reduces internal switch contact wear. The replacement button I'm using on my older V3 is still going strong (spec is 1 million button presses) which is well beyond what the original Sig button lasted me. The downside is that the button doesn't feel very "clicky" and is easier to engage, which I don't care about except to say that I have to be more careful about accidentally firing my Sig.

I'll report back after I've ordered that Omron switch and replaced the button on my newer V3 to let you know how it worked out.

 

[JeremyR]

I think your right on all points. I would much rather have an easier to press button more recessed. ... I know I started out as a noalox denier.. Lol but it's for sure necessary. I wonder how a graphite would work, mentioned before, as after being a mechanic for years I don't like the axle grease smell..

 

[vantagebox]

Thanks all for posting potential solutions to the button issue. I've tried them all now but unfortunately none have worked. The closest was the turning of the button trick, but it doesn't last, at least not for me. This is a great APV, I'm really sad to see that Sigelei hasn't resolved the button issue. I really thought that buying the V5 version would do the trick, oh well...

Just for the record, here's everything I've tried:
1. Cleaning the whole inside with alcohol then re-applying Noalox (done this multiple times)
2. Clicking the button multiple times
3. Using pressured air all around button
4. The rotating button trick described above

I think I'll just put it away for now while I look for something else; maybe some rest will do it some good.

 

[vantagebox]

Thanks all for posting potential solutions to the button issue. I've tried them all now but unfortunately none have worked. The closest was the turning of the button trick, but it doesn't last, at least not for me. This is a great APV, I'm really sad to see that Sigelei hasn't resolved the button issue. I really thought that buying the V5 version would do the trick, oh well...

Just for the record, here's everything I've tried:
1. Cleaning the whole inside with alcohol then re-applying Noalox (done this multiple times)
2. Clicking the button multiple times
3. Using pressured air all around button
4. The rotating button trick described above

I think I'll just put it away for now while I look for something else; maybe some rest will do it some good.

I've also tried Gallant's solution of removing the battery and clicking it to "discharge"

 

[gregmon79]

I picked up a Zmax about a month ago. I'm lovin it. I haven't had but about 4 cigs the month I've been using it. I got it to quit smoking. I've quit for the most part. I also got a Kanger Tank pro 2 and 3. They seem to have given me issues since say one. I'm pretty tired of these tanks. Can anyone recommend me a better tank for the Zmax please??

Also, I'm sort of over the Kanger tanks. Anyone who use the pro tanks, when I soak the parts in hot water to clean them, is it safe to soak the coil or should I just rinse it off??


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[MrsP0721]

I always took it apart and soaked everything. I use carto tanks now, night and day from the protanks!

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[JeremyR]

Excellent gregmon,

Not sure what your looking for (rba?) but I would recommend something with an adjustable center pin, or a center pin that known to be adjusted. It works best because you can then you can get a nice flush mounting to the 510... For aesthetic and rigidity reasons, not to protect the Sigelie's 510 as the stainless is solid.

There may be a certain carto the has a short center pin allowing it to thread on farther than others. Cartos do provide a nice flavor if you go that route.

 

[mh37]

Agreed with cartos for the v3 its all i use and i can get my oddy tank to sit flush bonus,but since there is no air flow slits on the v3 well im a bit worried about heat and airflow its a toss up between looks and heat airflow!

 

[fairmana]

I think your right on all points. I would much rather have an easier to press button more recessed. ... I wonder how a graphite would work, mentioned before, as after being a mechanic for years I don't like the axle grease smell..

Thanks for the feedback Jeremy.

Based solely on a quick search of the web, it appears that Zinc (used in Noalox) is 170 times more conductive to electricity than Graphite. I used the figures from this web page (the value for "Graphite" was listed under "Carbon"). That is not to say that the additional components of Noalox or whatever form the graphite comes in won't have an effect of that. Another web page mentioned that natural graphite and artificial graphite (Graphene?) can differ, so the question starts to get more complex.

That being said, I would "off the cuff" recommend sticking with Noalox. It's easy to apply and clean up and we've seen that it works well. Graphite (at least in powder form) is a mess and stains everything. If the Graphite was in some sort of paste or grease form (I'm guessing you were thinking along those lines) it might be better, but I have no experience with any product like that so I couldn't say. If you've worked with something like that, let us know what your impression is. Does it say anything about how it can be used to improve conductivity on the label?

 

[JeremyR]

Some one had mentioned in this thread about possibly using a soft lead pencil. I have no idea if it would work. Just wondering if there are other alternatives. A zinc paste, that sounds interesting..

Well my switch is acting up after twisting yesterday.. Did 100 clicks a little better.. I think it will pass in time..

 

[fairmana]

Some one had mentioned in this thread about possibly using a soft lead pencil. I have no idea if it would work. Just wondering if there are other alternatives. A zinc paste, that sounds interesting..

Well my switch is acting up after twisting yesterday.. Did 100 clicks a little better.. I think it will pass in time..

Hope your button issue clears up for you. Noalox is a type of Zinc paste, which is why I was comparing zinc to graphite.

 

[AndriaD]

Well, I'm really, really peeved. I got my Nautilus today, got it all cleaned up, changed the installed 1.6Ω coil head for the included 1.8Ω, filled it, mounted it on the Sigelei, and let it sit for 10 minutes after filling, to make sure the wicks really got juiced. Even took a few priming puffs with the Nautilus set at lowest air flow, to get that juice really into the coil.

Set the Sigelei at 6.5w; made sure the airflow control was wide open... AND GOT A BURNT TASTE! AARGHHH! It's also a very, very warm vape, almost hot. Turned the Sig down to 6w, still burnt taste, still almost hot. Put it on the vv3... no burnt taste, AT ALL, and the temp is warm, nice and warm, but not hot.

Is it because of the low-ohm coil, on that powerful Sigelei? Would the 2.2Ω coils make it work better? I really got the nautilus *for* the sigelei, but it just keeps tasting burnt, even at the lowest wattage.

Andria

 

[JeremyR]

Set it to voltage and start at 3v, how does that do..

 

[JeremyR]

Hope your button issue clears up for you. Noalox is a type of Zinc paste, which is why I was comparing zinc to graphite.

Yeah except its mixed with grease.. I was thinking like a polyolefin of something.(white paste)

Dude have you tried stacked 350s? It's awesome!!!! 3 times the battery life, easily powers anything.. Barely stresses the chip at 1.5ohm @15w. . 8v's input.

 

[AndriaD]

Set it to voltage and start at 3v, how does that do..

I'll try that later; right now I have it on one of the vv3's, and I wander by now and then and take a hit; I have it set on 7.5w on the vv3, and it's not giving me the burnt taste, but it's definitely a different kind of vape; not sure I'm all that wild about it, to be honest; maybe I'll see if I can trade it for something in the co-op area. It's definitely a genuine Aspire Nautilus, I checked the number from the back of the box on the site, it's legit and never been checked before. I didn't really expect any different from MyFreedomSmokes, but it's still nice to be sure.

I think I'm spoiled on the T3S/MT3S tanks, especially since I've now rebuilt about 7 coils for them; finally got the trick of it, 7 wraps, gives me a nice solid 2.7Ω, though on the Sigelei it's always .1Ω lower, so it shows as 2.6; that's a really good vape at about 6.5-7.5 watts. And apparently self-made coils will last me longer than the store-bought ones, so that's a good thing. I've also done a few of the protank coils, same 7 wraps, and the Hypertank is giving much better flavor with that, using a cotton flavor wick but silica in the coil, than the store-bought "universal" protank coils have ever given me, but I think I still like the T3S taste better. So weird. These are some of the cheapest tanks made, yet the taste is so much better, I just don't understand that. Guess it's a good thing, though. Now if I can just find someone interested in trading something for the Nautilus.

Andria