Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

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AndriaD

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What I meant is that once you have a "rough" idea how long your Noalox lasts you, you can swap it out a week or two sooner than that amount of time. That's how I settled on somewhere around 1 month for me.

As for the menu, that happens to me too, but I think I'm just from hitting it one too many times. It seems like I always have to round-robin back to the beginning if I'm trying to turn mine on or off. Try pressing 3x quickly and see if you can stop on the 1st menu option.

The only advice I can think to offer you in regard to your 510 threads is to shine a flashlight down into them and see if you can spot an imperfection in the threads somewhere. If so, it might be possible to use a sharp tool to correct that spot in the threads. The best thing might be to have a stainless 510 male connector that you could work into your threads in and out until they worked better, but stainless male connectors are not very common. I was going to say I don't own anything that's stainless, but now that I think about it, I believe that airflow controller I mentioned previously is stainless. Did you ever decide to pick one of those up?

I went up to the new MadVapes store that same day, but they didn't have them in stock, and it's a bit of a hike from here, to the north side of the county, so I haven't been back, and *right* after that, I ordered that Nautilus which I thought would fix a lot of things, but unfortunately did not. I'm going to post that in the classifieds today, got it all cleaned up, and yesterday got some nice pics of it.

I have a spare eGo charger, I might be able to use that.

Andria
 

yzer

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The battery cap and telescope threads still seem quite smooth, no issues whatever. In fact the telescope threads are so smooth that once I get it about halfway back to fully-closed, a little spin actually has some travel, where it keeps spinning for a bit before I spin it again.

Andria
I can't imagine the telescopic tube spinning freely after Noalox has been applied to the threads. Noalox is a thick gray goo resembling toothpaste. The telescopic tube threads have a smooth feel after using Noalox but even with a light application it will add considerable drag to the tube. There is no way my Noaloxed tubes will continue to spin if I give them a hard turn and let go.
 

fairmana

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I can't imagine the telescopic tube spinning freely after Noalox has been applied to the threads. Noalox is a thick gray goo resembling toothpaste. The telescopic tube threads have a smooth feel after using Noalox but even with a light application it will add considerable drag to the tube. There is no way my Noaloxed tubes will continue to spin if I give them a hard turn and let go.

Yeah Yzer, I started thinking the same thing but didn't mention it because I had to assume Andria meant that it spun that way "before" the Noalox was applied. I just can't see it being able to free-spin with Noalox on the threads. If it does, then there's definitely not enough Noalox on the threads Andria. There should be enough Noalox that you can tell it's on there. Smooth but also "gooey" feeling at the same time when you rotate the tube.
 

AndriaD

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I can't imagine the telescopic tube spinning freely after Noalox has been applied to the threads. Noalox is a thick gray goo resembling toothpaste. The telescopic tube threads have a smooth feel after using Noalox but even with a light application it will add considerable drag to the tube. There is no way my Noaloxed tubes will continue to spin if I give them a hard turn and let go.

You use that much? I didn't know; I asked, when I first got the Sig, but no one ever said how much to use. I thought it must be somewhat like car wax, rub a lot on, the wipe and polish most of it back off. :confused:

Andria
 

yzer

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You use that much? I didn't know; I asked, when I first got the Sig, but no one ever said how much to use. I thought it must be somewhat like car wax, rub a lot on, the wipe and polish most of it back off. :confused:

Andria
Noaloxed threads will look much darker than bare stainless steel.
 

AndriaD

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Noaloxed threads will look much darker than bare stainless steel.

Hmm... mine do look darker, you can tell how far the noalox goes, in the tube... but it does have a bit of spin, once I get past half-way to closed up, so I guess I just rubbed too much of it back off. Next time I change out the battery, I'll re-do it.

Thx
Andria
 

fairmana

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You use that much? I didn't know; I asked, when I first got the Sig, but no one ever said how much to use. I thought it must be somewhat like car wax, rub a lot on, the wipe and polish most of it back off. :confused:

Andria

I apply multiple smallish blobs of Noalox straight from the Noalox tube around the circumference of the threads (to the top of the mod with the lower tube removed). Then I thread the lower tube onto the upper mod only about as far as I would normally have it with a battery installed. Then I reverse it back and forth once or twice to spread it out evenly in the threads. Try to keep your Noalox blobs from being too tall on the threads or most of it will just push off onto the leading edge of the lower tube when you screw it on. I found that applying Noalox to the upper part of the mod (instead of inside the lower tube) is easier and also helps keep excess Noalox from getting onto the battery on the inside of the tube. You may still have to wipe a very small amount of Noalox off the first battery you install after doing it. Finally I wipe off any excess that got above the threads onto the upper portion of the mod. I do the same thing as above on the battery cap, only I use smaller blobs of Noalox since there are fewer threads.

You'll get the feel of how much to use after you do it once or twice. The basic idea is to apply it liberally, but at the same time not apply so much that it gets all over everything else where you don't want it.

When your done, the threads should feel gooey with Noalox but the bottom tube will still be easy to turn. You'll feel a slight resistance in the threads due to the Noalox (won't turn as easy as without Noalox) but they should be smooth and feel well lubricated.
 
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fairmana

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Hey does anyone know if the button issue is fixed on the V5? My newer V3 is already having issues and I Noaloxed it from the start!

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I'd be willing to bet money that the buttons are the same. As Yzer pointed out, there may be inconsistencies where you might get one that works well for a long time or you might get one that craps out sooner. It's also possible that how long the button lasts is effected by how hard you push on the button beyond what force is necessary. The extra stress on the button could have a cumulative negative effect on performance over time.

The buttons on both of my V3's (older and newer versions) have crapped out sooner than I would expect, but several times I've also caught myself pushing harder then necessary. I'm not sure if that's just a subconscious habit from when my first button started to get flaky or what (I had to push it harder to get it to work right until I finally replaced the button).
 
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yzer

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The switches can fail but I've found that many other issues can produce misfires that look like switch failures.

The first thing I check is the 510/eGo connection. Is the atomizer making good contact with the center pin? Is the 510/eGo connector clean and dry?

Are the battery center post and battery spring dirty? Clean the inside of the battery cap too.

Are the batteries dirty? Buff both contact ends of the battery.

Is the tube adjustment too loose? The battery spring can compress with time. Either tighten the tube a little more or stretch the spring back to it's original 17mm length. Has the base diameter of the battery spring compressed? It should fit tightly into the battery cap.

Is the tube treated with Noalox? If so, the Noalox could be drying out or dirty. Noalox should also be used on the battery spring base and the battery cap threads.

Is the battery getting old? Batteries can act strangely when they get old and could cause misfires, especially if a weak battery is discharged lower than 3.5V.

I've cured misfires with some interesting solutions. 100 rapid clicks or more until the switch cycles through the menu without misfires. Doing a firmware reboot and resetting all menu selections. Holding the Sigelei upright and firmly tapping the tube near the button (does this clear dust from the switch?)

Finally, it could be a switch failure. We have seen these happen. Either replace the switch as a DIY project or replace the whole unit.
 
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MrsP0721

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Those are great points. None of those pertain to my Sigelei, my mod is less than a month old (not the same one I had problems with before, this is a newer one), the Noalox is less than a month old and still very smooth, the oldest battery I have is from the end of Feb. I've tried the rapid fire solution, I've only telescoped it out twice to put a wrap on and the Noalox, the battery and all connections are clean, I clean EVERYTHING every night before I go to bed (so it's all nice and clean when I wake up the next morning :0) and everything is still nice and snug. I guess Sigelei just doesn't love me! Out of my original 3, 2 have had the same problem. The other one I bought used and it works great. I got my newest, the Rainbow V5 about a week ago, maybe a week and a half so I haven't noticed issues. It's acted a little off twice, but it could have been user error as it was very quick. I definitely do not push too hard on the button, I push until it clicks and stop. I have to push harder NOW b/c of the issues, but never before. I guess I need to find someone who can either work on the button or consider something else. I haven't had any issues with my Vamos so I might have to just stick with those until the issue gets resolved. That would suck b/c I love my Sigs and have spent a lot of money on them!
 

fairmana

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Sorry to hear about your button problems MrsP0721. I've been in the same boat, so I know how you feel.

I know you said your Noalox is relatively fresh, but I highly recommend that you replace it just to be sure. Clean up your threads with alcohol and an old toothbrush. I wouldn't use paper towel or Kleenex to wipe up the threads because they can leave small fibers behind that may cause conductivity problems. Use compressed air or a lint-free cloth at the very end to dry things up before you apply new Noalox.

If you do that (double check Yzer's last post also) and you still have problems, then you can be pretty sure it's a button problem. If you're willing to do that, please let us know how it turns out.
 

JeremyR

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Hey mrs p, I noticed you said telescoped out.. Does That mean your running 18350 or so? I would wonder how you apply the noalox. The tolerance on the thread slop varies from batch to batch from what I've heard. Looser the threads more problematic they can be and also with the noalox thickness needed IMO.

If your running 18350-500 the way I would apply the noalox is on the inside of the telescopic tube. Gauge where te main threads will sit in the tube by lining the main body up to the side. In this spot on the inside apply a good coat of noalox around the threads. Screw the body into its set position and lightly work back and forth by a half turn a couple times. Wipe away the excess when the tube is set to length. This way the threads at the point of contact will be full of noalox.

For instance if you put it at the top and thread the body all th way in most the noalox will be lost in non contact areas of the tube.

Good luck!
 
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