Thanks for posting that review MotherNature. I was glad to see that the sigelei ZMAX outperformed the SMOKTech ZMAX when it came to voltage output accuracy.
Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group
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Thanks for posting that review MotherNature. I was glad to see that the sigelei ZMAX outperformed the SMOKTech ZMAX when it came to voltage output accuracy.
LOL! She's absolutely correct!
Dang, by that logic I need to buy 2 more! lol My hubs would murder me!
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What tanks are y'all using on your Zmax models?? I've been using the Kanger tanks and while I do like them, I feel I could do better. They seem inconsistent on hits as far as potency and taste. Sometimes they almost taste burnt but other times they taste like a dream. All within a few hits of each other. I don't get it. I've tried the pro tank 2 and 3 and just for an areo tank where you can adjust the air stream going in from little to no resistance all the way to not being able to suck anything through. This one hits even more whacky than the 2 or 3. But when it hits good, it's so good. Am I doing something wrong??
What tanks are y'all using for your zmax?
Killing gods
What tanks are y'all using for your zmax?
Killing gods
I was using the ProTank 1 for a long time and was perfectly satisfied with its performance. I decided to try a Kayfun Lite+ and found it to be even better, so that's all I use on my Zmax now. They are rebuildables, so you need to make your own coils and wicks. They're very easy to do and I've had no problems at all.
Protanks can be like that, any clearos really.. I'm using an oddy, but other options that look good are kayfun, Russian, ect.
I like anything stainless on it, it's a real sleek look. I'm considering the flash e vapor clone also. Carto tanks are a Great option if you don't want to rebuild. I recently posted a pic of a carto tank on it.
I like anything stainless on it, it's a real sleek look. I'm considering the flash e vapor clone also. Carto tanks are a Great option if you don't want to rebuild. I recently posted a pic of a carto tank on it.
I'm thinking for my next one, I'll get the v5 round-top, since I have the v3 flat-top now. Or maybe a VTR, if I can afford it. I've always thought they were the best looking of the box mods, I hear they're nearly indestructible (klutz-proof!), and they can use these 18650s. Need to find a thread for those, and read up on the pros and cons, because they're certainly a lot more costly. Maybe I could get that when I've been smoke-free for a whole year.
And whoever it was who asked about tanks, I can't remember now -- I'm using my kanger T3S tanks, and they work great, especially since I put the Sigelei in RMS mode! Still getting some dry hit burnt taste from the Hypertank2, with it's "kanger universal" coils, which I rebuilt. Maybe still a bit too much wicking in that one. But now that I've learned to build-rebuild coils, I'm looking around for a Kayfun in brushed rather than polished or satin stainless.
Maybe when I get a v5 round-top, I'll get one of those rainbows; I saw some rainbow driptips today. Don't normally care much for metal drip tips, but that rainbox finish is so cool looking, I might put up with it.
Andria
I personally only use carto tanks on my v3 my fav and best quality is the stainless steel odyssey tank made and designed in the uk and its got a five year guarantee price range from £30-£40 depending on offers and discounts so $50-$67 but you get what you pay for its the best!
I use either SmokTech carto tanks or my brand new love, a Nautilus. They're both amazing, I've never had any luck with Kanger tanks!
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I've also been using the Protank II's but a few months ago I bought a "Kayfun Lite Plus" (Tobeco clone) that I've been using now almost exclusively. I'm pretty happy with it. The only thing I don't like about it is that I have to fill it from the bottom, so I have to remove the entire tank from the device to access the fill hole (screw). I've been looking around for a "Kayfun Lite 3.1" clone since they appear to allow you to fill them from the side. I also want to be able to use standard drip tips, since I'm not too crazy about the metal tips. It seems that not all 3.1's allow you to do that. I hate to have to buy the clones, but the originals are just so darn expensive and I just don't see those dollar signs when I look at what I'm getting.
EDIT: I wanted to post this FT link since this is the one I've got my eye on. I've read good reviews on the build quality and threading and apparently it comes with a drip tip adapter even though it's not shown. The price is fantastic.
EDIT #2: Before anyone chimes in and tells me you can fill these from the top, I haven't had good luck with that. I know you need to cover the air hole during the process, but even doing that I get leaking out of the air hole afterwards that takes too much effort to alleviate. I'd rather not unscrew the top anyway - I might as well unscrew the whole device and fill it from the bottom.
EDIT: I wanted to post this FT link since this is the one I've got my eye on. I've read good reviews on the build quality and threading and apparently it comes with a drip tip adapter even though it's not shown. The price is fantastic.
EDIT #2: Before anyone chimes in and tells me you can fill these from the top, I haven't had good luck with that. I know you need to cover the air hole during the process, but even doing that I get leaking out of the air hole afterwards that takes too much effort to alleviate. I'd rather not unscrew the top anyway - I might as well unscrew the whole device and fill it from the bottom.
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Here are two conversion kits for 510 drip tips if you do decide on an ES style Kayfun. One is sandblast and one bright finish to match your device:
$2.59 Replacement Spare Parts for Kayfun v3.1 Atomizer at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$2.59 Replacement Spare Parts for Kayfun v3.1 Atomizer at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Thanks for those links VapieDan. The KFL+ I own right now has a drip tip adapter, I just didn't want to buy a 3.1 that had proprietary threading at the top. Apparently FT sells an adapter, which is good to know. If I drop the hammer on the 3.1 at the link I included above and it doesn't come with one (arrrgh!) I'll pick one of those up. Thanks again.
Thanks for those links VapieDan. The KFL+ I own right now has a drip tip adapter, I just didn't want to buy a 3.1 that had proprietary threading at the top. Apparently FT sells an adapter, which is good to know. If I drop the hammer on the 3.1 at the link I included above and it doesn't come with one (arrrgh!) I'll pick one of those up. Thanks again.
You are welcome. I have an ES and it works well.
I'm a carto tank fan. I use non-flanged Smok 2.0 ohm single coil XL cartos that I punch myself. The carto tank is IBTanked. I have stuck with Smok cartos for over two nears now and have used IBTanked for over a year. I tried a few clearos but didn't like the thin vapor I got.
Yzer, I may have to give the carto route a shot in the near future...
What's the learning curve on punching the cartos? I hear you have to get the hole sizes just right or the cartos will flood or give a burnt taste. Is it just trial and error? Did you have to ruin several cartos before you got it figured out? Also, have you found a good quality source for quantities of cartos that you're happy with price-wise? I normally vape at around 8 watts on my V3. How long (ball park) do the cartos last you before you have to replace them?
I have the EHPRO kayfun lite plus and the Black edition kayfun lite plus and use both on my v3s. Sold my Nautilus after getting them because of better taste and inexpensive coils. Just saying!!
The protanks/areotanks can be fiddly. If I get dry hits, I either do a couple pulls without pushing the fire button to prime the wicks or I take one of the flavor wicks out. I usually find that taking one flavor wick out works best and doesn't cause the PT/AT to flood. Things like PG/VG ratio and vaping wattage will also effect these tanks. good luck!
I just wanted to report back after replacing the button in my newer version V3. It works fantastic and I'm very happy with it. No more misfires. The button I used is the best one I've been able to find to date. It has a 1,000,000 button-press lifespan, is sealed against contamination, and the force needed to actuate it is right about where the original button was (just as clicky IMO).
There were a few issues with it that kept it from being a simple swap out though... The main problem is that it's not designed to be a surface mount switch, but rather a "through hole" soldered switch with long legs sticking straight down. When I first saw it online, I had hoped I might be able to make it work, since it's the first tactile switch I've found for sale with the stats I mentioned above and that had the right dimensions and contact spacing. The legs come out of the sides and then bend downward. All I had to do was bend them back off to the sides and clip them off to the correct length. When I finished you almost couldn't tell it wasn't a surface mount switch to begin with.
Another minor issue was that it had 2 small plastic nubs on the bottom that made it stand a little too high off the circuit board (about 1mm over the 5mm target) which I had to sand off slightly (no big deal). After it was soldered on, the switch was right at 5mm tall, just like the V3's original switch.
Another very minor issue is that the switch face is yellow instead of black. I was going to paint black over the yellow so it wouldn't be so visible through the clear button, but then on a whim I decided to just leave it. I'm kinda glad I did because it gives it a sorta unique look and I'm starting to dig it. If I ever change my mind, I can always go back in and paint it.
There were a few issues with it that kept it from being a simple swap out though... The main problem is that it's not designed to be a surface mount switch, but rather a "through hole" soldered switch with long legs sticking straight down. When I first saw it online, I had hoped I might be able to make it work, since it's the first tactile switch I've found for sale with the stats I mentioned above and that had the right dimensions and contact spacing. The legs come out of the sides and then bend downward. All I had to do was bend them back off to the sides and clip them off to the correct length. When I finished you almost couldn't tell it wasn't a surface mount switch to begin with.
Another minor issue was that it had 2 small plastic nubs on the bottom that made it stand a little too high off the circuit board (about 1mm over the 5mm target) which I had to sand off slightly (no big deal). After it was soldered on, the switch was right at 5mm tall, just like the V3's original switch.
Another very minor issue is that the switch face is yellow instead of black. I was going to paint black over the yellow so it wouldn't be so visible through the clear button, but then on a whim I decided to just leave it. I'm kinda glad I did because it gives it a sorta unique look and I'm starting to dig it.
If I ever change my mind, I can always go back in and paint it.
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The first thing to learn is how to prime a carto and there are a lot of ways to do this. I use a Siam Mods V2 carto punch from Phiniac that makes punching holes of different sizes easy. This carto punch does not deform the cartos too much: I've been using the same O-rings on a IBTanked for over a year. Yes, learning how big/how many holes to punch involves trial and error. The idea is have a carto that is saturated just short of the flooding stage. I use a very thick juice and punch four medium holes low on the carto. I use 3 2/3 turn on the Siam Mods V2 for each hole. I buy my cartos at Hoosier e-Cig. I change out a carto and wash the tank every 7-10 days.
Siam Mods V2 carto punch
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Thanks for the info. I guess how thick or thin you e-liquid is will have a major influence on the holes you punch. How long are your cartos lasting you?
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