This is great news fairmana! Did you link to that switch last time?
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Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group
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This is great news fairmana! Did you link to that switch last time?
Cartos last me 7-10 days. I vape about 2.5ml of juice per day and top off the 5ml IBTanked once a day. At about day three or four the unflavored juice I use will begin to turn from clear to light yellow as the nicotine oxidizes from carto heat. I notice enough change in the taste to want to change out the carto at 7-10 days. The cartos are still working perfectly at that time although the coil resistance usually has risen about .2 ohms.
At $1.37 per carto I don't mind changing cartos out that often for the best taste.
2.0 ohm low resistance cartomizers
In this photo you can see the new V5 and a 22ml XL IBTanked. Inside the tank is a Smok 2.0 ohm single coil XL (no flange) with four holes made by a Siam Mods V2 carto punch. The carto in this tank has been used non-stop for at least a week.
At $1.37 per carto I don't mind changing cartos out that often for the best taste.
2.0 ohm low resistance cartomizers
In this photo you can see the new V5 and a 22ml XL IBTanked. Inside the tank is a Smok 2.0 ohm single coil XL (no flange) with four holes made by a Siam Mods V2 carto punch. The carto in this tank has been used non-stop for at least a week.
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That looks so awesome! I'm decided; I've found a brushed stainless Russian 91% clone at slowtech that has the standard 501 driptip, and it's just $21.86, so I'm ordering it! It'll take a while to get here, but I can't pass up that price, when every one here in the US is about twice that much, and either polished or satin/matte.
Andria
EDIT: actually I just found the same exact one on ebay, shipping from CA, for just $7 more. Think I'll keep looking on ebay and see what else I may turn up!
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I got me an early bday present coming... I couldn't resist, I got a pink V3 on clearance for $30 and then a few mins later they were sold out! Thank goodness my mom paid for it lol... love bday time! And it being the day before Mother's Day this year, I can still get more stuff lol.
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Has anyone ever actually done a "noalax vs just clean threads" here? Call my sceptical but I find it hard to believe that in 30 clean threads(say 18500), adding noalax is the "magical fix all" of sorts.
I know, it's the only place I've found that sells them in colors!
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Yes
Believe me if you could go back to my posts when I was a new user, post 6-700 or so, I had a hard time With believing it too, I was once a noalox denier.
it does in fact work I said the same as you and proved it works. Your only making contact on the 8 threads on the body. For some reason there is added resistance which you can notice as heat around the tube where the main body threads are set. I had major issues and heat.. The noalox solved it! You want the noalox focus only at the area the main body threads will be sitting in the tube.
Thanks for the kudos guys.
Yeah, the yellow switch is really growing on me. I've got my older V3 apart (it's getting one too) and I'll be finishing it up tomorrow.The switch is neither of the two switches I posted a week or so ago, although it is an Omron Switch. I was close to giving up on finding a switch that met all the criteria I was looking for... obviously the size and dimensions, but also good lifespan, sealed, and an operating force similar to the original. I got very lucky in finding this switch, since it isn't designed to be surface mountable. I bought 2 of them, as well as 2 other Omron switches (P/N B3W-4000) that I tossed aside as soon as I pressed them in the baggie (naw - just as soft as the previous one I've already put in my older V3).
The money switch is Omron part number B3W-4005 (Digikey part number SW976-ND)... and it's only 76 cents!
As I mentioned in my other post, it takes some minor modification to get it to fit on the board so it can be soldered. Nothing drastic and relatively easy to do. It only took me about 10 minutes to prep the 2nd switch so it can be soldered tomorrow into my older V3. That older V3 works fine with it's earlier button replacement, but I prefer the feel of this switch so it's going in.
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We spend (on average) $50 and up on a MOD after days or weeks of research.....Since it has truly solved the problems of numerous users and only costs a couple of dollars for a small tube (easily enough for months if not years), my question to you is this....Why not use it either way....as a preventative or problem solver? I sure did and it hasn't caused any problems whatsoever!
Thanks Andria.
By the way, after owning my Kayfun Lite Plus (the one in my pic is a Tobeco from Ebay), a kinda wish I had taken a look at the 3.1 first. The side fill hole is a great improvement that I'm pretty sure is not on the Russian 91% (unless FT's version includes it - I'm not sure). There are also other versions/differences/improvements that might sway you one way or the other. Just saying... If you haven't already done it, check out some reviews/videos before you drop the hammer.
Anyway, once you get your Kayfun I have a feeling you're going to enjoy it as much as I like mine.
Most of us started with clean threads right out of the box and shortly thereafter started having trouble such as misfires and the dreaded "black screen" (amongst other intermittent problems). So yes, I think many (if not all) V3/V5 telescopic owners have done the "noalax vs just clean threads" test. I think most of us were a little skeptical to some degree that Noalox was going to solve the problem, but the proof was in the pudding.
I'm curious munsterrr... do you own a V3 or V5 telescopic and are you having intermittent problems?
Cool fairmana, thanks a million. Now I think its time to get it ordered. The misfires are becoming annoying. I was looking at this switch its blue- sw800-nd , 10 million rating but only 130 gf , sounds like it would fire too easily if I set it down ... Better go with the 350 gf yellow one Sw976-nd .... So it says 4.3 mm, but it mounts to 5 surface mounted. That's no an issue I figured those tabs could be bent.. Did you take the whole nub off to flush?
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The threading of most of the inexpensive devices are "loose" meaning there is a gap between the male part of the thread and the female part not allowing consistent contact. Also Stainless steel is not the highest conductor. The Noalox fills in those gaps with a highly conductive paste. I can attest to your proposed test. I have a V3 with increased thread wear which now functions and did not function even clean. It is prudent to use Noalox on new devices to reduce that wear in the first place.
I began my Sigelei telescopic tube mod experience by using Vaseline on the tube threads of my first V3. Vaseline made the tube move more smoothly. A couple of months later I read posts here recommending Noalox instead of Vaseline. I was having intermittent misfires with Sigelei #1 back then. The Noalox did the trick. Threads worked smoothly but with a little more drag than Vaseline and the misfires all but disappeared. Although I don't have the test instruments to proved it I'm virtually certain Noalox is a good way to improve electrical conductivity along the B- path of any threaded tube mod.
The threads would have to be very tight for a good contact, that wouldn't be user friendly. It's also well known in the automotive world that you don't ground to a shiny surface. Between the looseness and shininess of the threads it's a condition for poor - ground contact.
Jeremy, my thoughts exactly. That's pretty much been my headache from the start. All the switches that boast a high lifespan (> 1 million presses) all seem to be rated at around 150gf of operating force to press them (too soft). This is the first time I've been able to find a switch with 350gf while at the same time having a lifespan of at least 1 million presses.
Your right, the B3F-5000 you mentioned (SW800-ND) is rated at 130gf, but another problem is that it isn't a sealed switch either. The B3F-4055 in the B3F series would be a better choice at 260gf and 1,000,000 operations, but again this series isn't sealed and 260gf is still too low. Based on what I'm feeling from the B3W-4005, anything lower than 350gf would be too low IMO. The other switch I bought (B3W-4000) is physically the same size switch and boasts a 3 million press lifespan, but unfortunately has a 200gf of operating force. I bought 2 of these but 200gf still feels too soft. Anyone could use the softer switches with success and be sure of a very long lifespan if they could live with that soft touch required to fire it.
To answer your other question about the nubs, the B3W-4005 switch body is 4.30 mm so I had to sand the nubs on the bottom until they were about 0.70 mm long (5mm total). I just opened the jaws of my micrometer to 5mm and sanded the nubs until the switch could enter the micrometer jaws sideways (do both nubs individually). I used medium grit sandpaper, and it didn't take very many swipes to rub them down. Try to apply even gentle pressure while holding the switch level as you sand it (not easy) so both nubs are sanded evenly. Stop and check your measurements after a few swipes on the sandpaper so you don't sand them too short.
You'll have to bend the legs off to the side to where you want them before you can sand the nubs since the legs are in the way. What I did first is take a nice pair of needle-nosed pliers with a fine-toothed jaw, and straighten the lower half of the legs so they came out of the switch and went straight down at a 90 degree angle. Then I grabbed both legs with the pliers just below the switch so that I could see just shy of 1mm of air gap between the switch and the edge of the plier jaws. I tried to keep the edge of the pliers parallel to the switch body so both legs were bent as close to the same length as possible. Then I made my 90 degree bend away from the switch while trying to keep the upper part of the legs from moving away from the switch body. I have yet to get my bends exactly where I wanted them, but it's not terribly critical so long as the bends don't make the switch set too high off the board or too short to be soldered. In other words, it's better that the legs be bent a hair short so you can angle them downward later to make up the difference whereas if the bend is too long, you have no leeway to make corrections and will have to straighten and re-bend them. If you have to straighten out any leg to start over, go in small steps and very slowly. I was paranoid that I would snap off a leg if I bent it too fast. They are probably sturdier than that, but why chance it.
The plastic nubs on the underside sit across the center of the switch, so if the legs are too short, the switch will rock toward one pair of legs or the other and not be level. You may need to make adjustments or re-bend the legs until the switch is about level on a flat surface. The 5mm gap in the jaws of my micrometer came in handy here as well. Once I cut my legs to length, I had to make 1 or 2 fine adjustments and slightly angle my bends downward so that the entire switch sat level on my desk on the sanded nubs and all 4 legs (or very close).
The main pressure when you push on the button should fall on the plastic nubs, but once the legs are soldered they should also be able to provide good support. I removed all the excess solder from the circuit board pads with a solder wick so none of the legs would be forced to sit high. I also recommend you use a small amount of flux on the pads and the legs so solder flows well to fill any slight angled gap under the feet. I held the switch in position with firm pressure with my finger while soldering so it wouldn't move out of position. I also used just a hair more solder than you would normally expect to see on a surface mount component just to be sure they would be good and strong. Don't forget to clean up the flux with alcohol and a small brush afterwards.
One final thing which is purely aesthetic and nit picky... If you want your switch to be nicely centered under the plastic window, check your board inside the tube first and decide if the switch should be soldered further forward or backward on the board. My switch appears a bit toward the screen and if I had checked it before soldering, I probably could have soldered it further back on the board. There's a little leeway where you can solder the switch since the pads are about twice as wide as the switch feet. Just be careful since there might be some other contacts on the board close to those feet (electrical short).
Best of luck and sorry this was so long winded!
Here's a pic of the before and after. You can see I haven't clipped the leads to length yet.
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I just ordered a handful of tactile switches B3W-4005 by Omron from Digi-Key. Thanks, fairmana. 
Looks like my Sigeleis are going to be darned near immortal now.
Looks like my Sigeleis are going to be darned near immortal now.
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I was just thinking... if I really wanted a black color showing through the plastic button with the Omron switch I could use an Exacto knife to cut a small dot of black electrical tape and just stick that onto the switch cover. I have electrical tape in black, white, yellow, blue, red and green. The yellow would be just fine for me, though.
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"The money switch is Omron part number B3W-4005 (Digikey part number SW976-ND)... and it's only 76 cents! "
This is AWESOME information. Thank you fairmana, THANK YOU!
The V3 I bought last October is suffering from a weak button. It is very soft and makes almost no click noise. I'll be ordering a few of these. NICE!
"This is AWESOME information. Thank you fairmana, THANK YOU!
The V3 I bought last October is suffering from a weak button. It is very soft and makes almost no click noise. I'll be ordering a few of these. NICE!
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