Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

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fairmana

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@ Jeremy:
I ordered one of those OmniTesters made by smok that Andria graciously tested for us on the sigelei. I did some further testing with it and it seems to be pretty accurate. If I set my V3 to 4.1 volts, it says 4.1 volts on the meter. It "rounds up" or "rounds down" to the nearest 0.5 volt, but for the most part it's pretty decent.

At any rate, you mentioned testing a 1.3 ohm coil on one of these OmniTesters to see what the Sigelei could put out. I used about 1.5 inches of twisted kanthal that I had laying around on my KayFun deck (not in a coil, just a circular shape between the screws) and ensured it read 1.3 ohms on the Sigelei. Occasionally, I would switch the display back to "resistance" to verify that the 1.3 ohms was still correct. I starting increasing the voltage while I was in voltage mode and I got up to 4.3 volts on the V3 while the Omnitester mirrored the same voltage I had set. At 4.4 volts, the OmniTester still showed 4.3 volts, and any higher setting of voltage on the V3 did not increase past 4.3 volts on the Omnitester.

Before I continue, I need to explain that I opened up my OmniTester and connected a positive and negative wire that pass through a hole in the OmniTester enclosure to the outside so I can attach another meter. I connected my "graphical display Fluke meter (867B)" and I was able to confirm that when the V3 was set at 4.3 volts, the PWM waveform was at 98.6% duty cycle. At 4.4 volts on the V3, the graphical display showed the waveform completely flat at 100% duty cycle, and the Omnitester still showed 4.3 volts. My graphical meter displayed 4.37 volts, which should have been pretty close since the waveform was at 100% duty cycle (straight DC).

During this test I was using a single 18650 battery (Efest IMR 2250mAh V2).
1.3 ohms at 4.3 volts = 3.3 amps. I'm not sure how, but I was able to exceed the 2.5 amp limit with the boost circuit when using a single battery. Your guess is as good as mine regarding why I was able to do that. I should probably do some more testing with other resistances and see what I come up with.

Another significant thing I wanted to share...
If you recall, I stated in an earlier post that I was putting together a spreadsheet calculator in Excel using the formulas for PWM and the resulting output voltage and power. I also mentioned in that post that if I used my digital meter to determine the duty cycle at a specific setting on my V3, the duty cycle calculations from my spreadsheet were inconsistent. Now I think I finally understand why that is and what is really going on.

The peak pulse voltage of the PWM signal coming from the V3 is supposed to be 6 volts. However, I noticed that as soon as you introduce a resistance, that 6 volts gets loaded down and drops to some lower voltage. The value of the voltage it drops down to depends on the atomizer resistance and the voltage setting. All my calculations were using a steady 6 volts as a baseline PWM peak voltage, and that's why the duty cycle measurements I took with my meter didn't match my spreadsheet calculations for a particular voltage or power setting. I assumed that the 6 volt pulse voltage would be regulated by the device when a load was introduced in the circuit. This doesn't appear to be the case.

I found that instead of regulating the output pulse voltage, the device simply increases the percent of duty cycle to compensate for the voltage drop. The MCU monitors the output and increases the duty cycle until the output voltage once again matches the setting in the menu. It's actually a pretty smart strategy. They were able to fabricate a circuit that provides a relatively accurate output without over-complicating the design (fewer components/less space required/reduced cost).

If you go back to the above example where I found that the highest voltage I could get was 4.3 volts at 100% duty cycle, it validates this concept. If the assumption is that the output peak voltage in the PWM waveform is always 6 volts, shouldn't my reading be 6 volts instead of 4.3 volts? At 100% duty cycle, a PWM pulse train appears as a flat DC voltage, so anytime you have 100% duty cycle with a 6 volt peak pulse voltage your RMS output should read 6 volts. However that isn't the case. Since the peak pulse voltage has now dropped to 4.3 volts under load, the output also reads 4.3 volts when it's at 100% duty cycle. Makes sense, right? That being said, it should also be understood that the maximum power this device can deliver is also going to be determined (at least in part) by the maximum duty cycle of the PWM output when a specific load and voltage setting are applied.

I was eventually able to include a calculation in my spreadsheet that corrects for the voltage drop and determines what the actual peak pulse voltage should be. However, you must measure the percent of duty cycle (with a meter that is capable of doing it) and input that value into the spreadsheet. The resulting "corrected" value of the pulse voltage can then be input into the appropriate cell in the spreadsheet to overwrite the "baseline" 6 volt pulse value used for all the output calculations. Once that's done, the spreadsheet recalculates everything at the corrected peak pulse voltage. That let's you validate that the output will produce the same voltage or power you were originally simulating at the 6 volts peak pulse baseline, but at the corrected peak voltage. I'm still playing with the spreadsheet to see if I can automate some of that... I'm hoping that I'll soon have an easy to use spreadsheet that I can share with anyone who's interested. With my luck, I'll finally get it completed only to discover that someone else made one 2 years ago. Doh!

I'm finding out that not only is the spreadsheet useful and a great learning tool in and of itself, but also that the above pulse voltage correction calculation is useful when you are trying to figure out what your output should be when you don't have any other way to accurately measure it (ex. you have a meter that can't read RMS or you want to verify the voltage setting on your device). Again, the caveat is that you must own a meter that can read % duty cycle (many digital meters appear to do that these days). If your meter reads DC (most do), you should be able to accurately measure your output voltage so long as you can get it to reach 100% duty cycle before it hits some other limitation. Directly measuring your duty cycle with a capable meter will obviously also verify that for you.

Sorry this was so long winded!
 

tchavei

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Ok.. My brain just went into protective shutdown however, before vital functions like typing go down as well, my question is:

Say I have a 1.19 ohm coil mounted on my sigelei and I fire the mod at 10w with a single cell and at the same time I measure the actual voltage going through it, I can calculate the amps and check if it will go over 2.5 amps?


Regards
Tony

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fairmana

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Say I have a 1.19 ohm coil mounted on my sigelei and I fire the mod at 10w with a single cell and at the same time I measure the actual voltage going through it, I can calculate the amps and check if it will go over 2.5 amps?

Tony, you sure can.

Calculation.jpg

Edit: The spreadsheet has 2 more calculators identical to this one where you can set "Voltage" or "MEAN Power" instead. The attached image was a capture from the "RMS Power" calculator
 
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tchavei

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Yeah... I just discovered that myself lol... "low load"

Anyway, in the name of science, I just built a 1.37 ohm coil, set the sigelei zMax mini at 15w with a single 18350 efest cell and measured the voltage during firing... 4.51V

I am surprised because on my calculator that should be around 14.85W and well over the 2.5 amp limit?

More confused than ever

Regards
Tony

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fairmana

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Tony, I noticed your reporting your ohm values to 2 decimal places. I can only assume you're measuring your atomizer on a multimeter. Have you compared what you're measuring on your multimeter to what the Sigelei sees it as? Get your Sigelei to display the resistance and use that in your calculations instead. I suspect that the microcontroller in the Sigelei rounds up or down to the nearest tenth of a decimal and then makes all it's output calculations based on that value. I don't think it will make a huge difference, but it's probably best to use what the Sigelei reports instead of what you measure on a multimeter. There may also be internal resistance in the Sigelei circuitry that you won't be able to account for by measuring with your multimeter.

Remember that most likely your multimeter isn't going to be able to measure the correct RMS voltage on the output, so don't put much faith in your voltage measurements unless you suspect your at 100% duty cycle, in which case measuring DC should be accurate. Can your multimeter measure % duty cycle? It may be a button off to the side that says "Hz/Duty/Width". Press it once until it shows the % symbol on the screen. You might also need to have the rotary selector on LOGIC or Hz before you can get that to work (check your multimeter manual or download it online). Be sure to take your % duty cycle measurement when you have the atomizer connected (meter lead on each side of the coil).

Let me know what your Sigelei says your resistance is, but for now I rounded up your ohm value from 1.37 to 1.4 ohms and put it in my spreadsheet. It's telling me that at 8.5 watts, you'll be at 2.46 amps and 3.45 volts. At 9 watts you'll be at 2.54 amps and 3.45 volts. Assuming no current limit, at 15 watts you'd have 3.27 amps and 4.58 volts. You'll probably hit the 100% duty cycle limit between 4.4 or 4.5 volts (between 13.5 and 15 watts), but I can't tell for sure without you taking a % duty cycle measurement with your meter. I suggest you keep increasing the wattage until the output no longer changes on your meter, and you'll know you hit the 100% duty cycle limit (if you don't hit an amp limit first). You can also switch to voltage and work up from 4 volts until your meter reading in DC volts doesn't change. That might be easier than using wattage because you can go in smaller increments. Then you can convert the voltage back to wattage.

Good luck!
 

tchavei

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Hi

Thx for the lengthy feedback :)

The sigelei is reading 1.4 Ohms. Not sure my multimeter has duty cycle... It's not that new but cost me an arm and a leg years ago (voltcraft). I will check if it does have that option. However at 15w (which is the top limit) the duty cycle should be close or at 100 % and the voltage I got was 4.51V which gives more than 14W and way more than 2.5 amps which should be the sigelei's limit in single mode or did I get that wrong?
Thx again


Regards
Tony

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fairmana

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Tony, although I can't be completely sure yet, I'm beginning to suspect that there might have been some confusion between a 2.5 amp limit and the duty cycle limit that wasn't being taken into account. Your results and mine point to that being a likely scenario. Hopefully we'll get to the bottom of it soon.
 

fairmana

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...at 15w (which is the top limit) the duty cycle should be close or at 100 % and the voltage I got was 4.51V which gives more than 14W and way more than 2.5 amps which should be the sigelei's limit in single mode or did I get that wrong?

If your output is capping out at 4.51 volts DC on your voltmeter, then you're probably at 100% duty cycle. Does is stay at 4.51 when you go to 15 watts? That's a good indication. 4.51 volts translates to 14.5 watts at 3.22 amps.

Calculation2.jpg
 

JeremyR

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Fairmana, dude the video was over the top man. Covered about everything you would want to know.

Are these batteries fully charged? I notice a fully charged single battery does seem to put out more power but that doesn't last long at all. Output drops with each .1 volt. I can't stand the output dropping and having to change the battery in a few hours at 3.7-3.8 because the output is noticeably less. With stacked I have no problems all day running low ohm. If you test a battery at 3.7-3.9 I bet you will see a much lower number, @ 2.6 amps. My point is what good is thinking your getting 3.3 amps when it doesn't last more than an hour. Stacked continue to give me power all day.
 

tchavei

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Well... because if we eventually confirm that the chip itself is able to output more than 2.5Amps, the limitation is on the battery and not on the setup anymore. On my evic S, with a 1.0Ohm coil and a 1830 short mode setup, I can see the percentage of the battery power go down on each draw but contrary to the sigelei, it will pump whatever watts I selected until it detects the battery can't handle the load anymore. For example (and I don't want to transform this into a battery pissing contest) my efest 18350 700mAh will basically crash at 0% (mod says not enough power and shuts down). On my AW's (probably fake, I can't verify this) however, it will crash at 2% with the same message so basically, once it detects the battery can't cope with the required amp draw, it shuts down whatever the charge level is. If I had been vaping at say 20W, the mod would shut down much sooner (say 3 or 4%, maybe more) as the battery wouldn't be able to provide the required amps to run it at the selected wattage. I already tried this... when the mod shuts down at 10W, I can reduce the power to 7W and still get a few draws out of it.

yes, I did the test with a fully charged battery.

Regards
Tony

PS: I will try to check the volts at 15W, 14.5W, 14W and so on to find a voltage profile and maybe we can estimate the duty cylce (my multimeter has every crap on it except hz/duty cycle :( )
 

JeremyR

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Limitation is the battery. Exactly. No battery will stay at 4.2. But stacked stay above 6.4 at all times. Instead of a nominal voltage of 3.7 the nominal voltage is 7.4..

No matter what you find stacked batteries make life a whole lot easier running below 2.3 ohms.

The newer v5 does a this work for you. It reads the actual output.
 

Marty163

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My V5 arrived. Flat top. The actual flat top with the air slots.

It only came with one bottom cap, the small one. So if I stack there are threads exposed on the tube. Also the spring would be nearly fully compressed. Which I understand applies too much pressure on the B+ connector and therefore the board/bracket.

Has anyone else only had the small cap dilivered with a ZMAX V5 or is my difficient?
 

fairmana

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I've been running through some different resistances on my V3 and going through the voltages from 3 volts up until it caps at the duty cycle limit.

A couple of things I've noticed so far:
The resistance readout on the V3 doesn't impress me much. I was never able to get my V3 to display the 1.4 and the 1.6 ohm values, no matter how I played with the resistance wire across the posts on my KayFun. Trying to get my wire to read 1.4 ohm on the V3 for example, it would always round down to 1.3 or round up to 1.5, regardless of how it measured on my Fluke meter (same thing trying to get 1.6 ohms). I finally threw my hands up and got it as close as possible to 2 decimal places on my meter (just for consistency in my output readings). I think Tony had the right idea by measuring his coil on the meter. I made 2 different windings that were almost .15 ohms difference and yet both were still supposedly 1.5 ohms as shown on the V3. However, I did notice that the resulting duty cycle outputs varied slightly due to the difference in resistance.

I think regardless of what the V3 says the ohms are, when the output is being monitored by the microprocessor, its making adjustments to the duty cycle based on the output power, and doesn't very closely monitor the resistance (which won't really be changing). That being said, I'm pretty sure the microprocessor takes a quick "rough" measurement of the resistance before it fires the atomizer just to verify it isn't below 1.2 ohms or that a short is not felt. It probably also estimates what the starting duty cycle should be.

The other thing I wanted to say is that you guys are making good points in regard to the batteries. I still think it's great that there's a good possibility that there isn't a 2.5 amp limit after all, but there is definitely something to be said for how well the battery power can support a given output setting. Just to give you an example, during my duty cycle testing, my battery had drained down to 3.8 volts so I decided to swap it out just in case it was having an effect on my readings. I had just taken a measurement of the duty cycle using a 1.8 ohm coil at 4.1 volts which gave me a duty cycle of 77.7 percent. I swapped over to a new battery without changing anything else and the duty cycle was all of a sudden down to 70 percent. That tells me that the Sigelei definitely makes duty cycle changes based on battery current availability. In this specific case, it reduced the duty cycle since more power could be delivered from the newly charged battery with less "On" time of the PWM waveform. If I had been at the 100% duty cycle limit with the above setup, it's quite possible that a battery that had drained down to 3.8 volts would not be able to maintain that 100% duty cycle since the duty cycle can't be increased any further beyond that to compensate for the reduced battery power.

Cheers,
Andy
 

fairmana

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My V5 arrived. Flat top. The actual flat top with the air slots.

It only came with one bottom cap, the small one. So if I stack there are threads exposed on the tube. Also the spring would be nearly fully compressed. Which I understand applies too much pressure on the B+ connector and therefore the board/bracket.

Has anyone else only had the small cap dilivered with a ZMAX V5 or is my difficient?

Hello Marty. Every V3 and V5 I've ever bought came with both caps. It should always come with both of them. As far as I'm concerned, there was definitely a problem with your order/shipment. Notify your vendor of the problem as soon as possible. They "should" send you the missing cap. Be specific about which cap size your missing so they don't send you another small one. If you bought it from FastTech, I hear they are pretty good about fixing issues and they should work with you.
 
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