Strange. It shouldn't fire if it shows an error. Is the error intermittent?
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
SM V3 Semovar VS Provari
- Thread starter SissySpike
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Strange. It shouldn't fire if it shows an error. Is the error intermittent?
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
Mr. Bond, my friend. I refer you to my good friend State O'Flux most excellent blog about this exact subject:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-kayfun-air-vent-leaking-thread-response.html
Here's a partial of that blog from State O'Flux:
"Consider this...
There should be, if the wick and coil are done correctly and a proper vacuum (low pressure) is maintained, no reason for juice to drain into the "catch cup"... or rather, the collector tank as Svoe Mesto refers to it.
One of the main differences between the 3.1 or full size Kayfun/Russian and the Lite/Lite+/R91% units is the lack of a collector tank. When built correctly, these attys don't suffer from juice draining out the air vent system... and so, no appreciable amount of juice should be accumulating in your collector tank.
Most juice "run off" into the air vent or collector tank, if any, occurs during the initial fill, or refill. This is due to a lack of vacuum in the "wet" side of the tank assembly. All these atomizers use "pressure differential" (please read to have a better understanding) to maintain a pressure boundary (as opposed to a wick type seal required for larger air orifices) between the wet or juice side and the dry or atomizing chamber side of the atomizer. If that pressure differential is not created - or immediately developed after assembly, then you run into drainage into the air vent system - in the case of the 3.1/Russian, it goes into the collector tank - in the Lite/R91% version, directly into the users hands.
I fill all (as do at least 75% of users) my Kayfun/Russian devices through the top cap, never using any "filler screw". Follow this guide:
1. Cover the air vent hole. (This prevents/reduces juice flow into the atomizer chamber by creating sufficient positive pressure to repel it's flow threw small orifices)
2. Remove top cap and fill from top, to top of tank section.
3. Install top cap 1 to 2 turns... sufficient to engage the chimney seal o-ring. (Too far, and you may force juice into the atomizer chamber)
4. Invert Atomizer. (Inverted, the pressure of installing the cap the remainder of the way cannot force juice into the chamber as the fluid level is below it)
5. Uncover air vent hole. (Now, air pressure, with the fluid "in between" the pressure differential can force excess air pressure out the vent - not juice)
6. Complete tightening of top cap.
7. Return atomizer to the functional position. (Done correctly, now there is a vacuum above the juice (created when the atomizer was returned to the upright position and the juice flowed to the bottom) and positive or atmospheric pressure in the atomizing chamber - a "pressure boundary")
The 4-7 parts are all done in one relatively smooth motion. If it leaks (and this is most obvious with Lite+/R91% atomizers - not so much with collector tank versions), with the vent hole covered, take several draws, lifting your finger near the very end of each draw... this will serve to create a vacuum in the juice tank.
Note: This same series of events should occur when filling a Kayfun atomizer from a bottom or even side fill screw - but too many users "seal" the hole when filling, both over filling the tank so that there is an insufficient negative air chamber, and not allowing pressure to escape - the result is, too often, no vacuum in the tank.
Another consideration is the position (spacing) of the coil relative to the positive deck/screw-air tube. Too close, and juice can find a path to the air vent... and there really is no such thing as too far, within the physical confines of the chimney assembly that is. A good spacing gap is 1mm+. I tend to settle around 1.5mm for a horizontal/compressed coil. Vertical coils... well, that would require another few paragraphs to explain, and I don't have any indication you're using them, so no call to make you suffer through reading that as well.
The last consideration is wick. Too much wick or too much wicking ability (capillary action) can actually be a bad thing. Most folks simply use too much wick. Be it cotton or silica or ekowool... too much.
As an example using cotton, I finally settled on a modestly compressed and rolled wick that, before installation into the coil (28 ga. 1.5mm ID), is small enough in diameter to insert it into the coil with no special theatrics. It's small enough to insert simply by threading it through with one hand - with a minimum amount of drag. That gives you an idea of just how small in diameter it actually is. In your hand - slightly less than the ID of the coil. Finished length is between 7/8" and 1" - produced simply by cutting off the excess tails with scissors.
So, in closing, lets review:
A proper tank vacuum is required and created during filling/assembly, or, if need be, can be produced after the fact.
•Proper coil spacing, providing at least a 1mm or more gap between coil and positive deck block, will reduce and/or eliminate juice transfer into the air vent screw/collector tank.
•Too much wick/juice retention can produce too much juice available at the coil, which can run off into the air vent screw/collector tank."
Anyway, maintaining a proper pressure differential is attainable and is ideal. Good luck. My two cents. YMMV.
Is it possible to upgrade the firmware in the nivel chip? And does anyone know what the advantages would be?
Mine has v1.80 and I saw a video where they had v1.88
Mine has v1.80 and I saw a video where they had v1.88
I am in need of an 18650 battery tube for my semovar. I can trade for an 18500 or 18350 tube or purchase outright.
Thanks
Thanks
Yes sir.. a great day indeed. say goodbye to your previous mods and toppers. Your in "High Cotton" now my friend.
Hopefully someone will not need theirs. Ive mostly detled into the 18500 tubes on both of mine, but every once and a while, I'll get a wild hair and change up.
Is it possible to upgrade the firmware in the nivel chip? And does anyone know what the advantages would be?
Mine has v1.80 and I saw a video where they had v1.88
I would be interested in this too. Do you recall what was different with the upgrade?
I can not wait. Picked up a bag of organic from CVS yesterday and a mini blow torch today. Got some Kanthal 32 AWG Gauge A1 Wire. Gonna try my first build tomorrow morning.Yes sir.. a great day indeed. say goodbye to your previous mods and toppers. Your in "High Cotton" now my friend.
I used the 32 on my Kanger builds. For the Kayfun, though, I use only 28 or 29 gauge A-1 Kanthal. The problem with the higher gauge wire is that you need too few wraps to get a given resistance, which reduces surface area. Greater surface area increases vaporization, so for 10 wraps of 28 for example, I get 1.2 - 1.3 ohms for a 1/16" micro coil. Using 32 gauge, I would use a 2/1 wrap to get the same resistance, in other words, no surface area to speak of. Or, if you do use 32 with more wraps, your resistance gets really high, which also reduces vaporization. We need both surface area and big heat, together with air flow and proper juice viscosity to get a great vape. Of course, playing around with these variables is half the fun, at least, you may be going for something else entirely and YMMV. But, just sayin'..... it did take a while to figure this stuff out. Here's a chart of mandrel sizes and resistance with 28 and 30 gauge. Good luck!
View attachment Microcoils and Resistance Chart.pdf
Thanks Bill !! Your explanation makes sense to me. I will pick up some 28 gauge tomorrow. I appreciate you sharing your experience for my benefit.
If I am reading the chart correctly, to get anywhere from 1.8 to 2.3 ohms will put me at 8 to 10 wraps on a 33 gauge drill bit using 28 gauge Kanthal?
Last edited:
I really like the semovar. The menu is easy to get used to, and it looks awesome. Little sucker is a battery eater. I couldn't imagine using anything besides a 18650
Welcome to the semovarinati
Yeah, you're reading it right, but why use such a large coil. The tighter coil is going to produce a better vape as the heat is more concentrated. Generally, 8 to 12 wraps is about right, and 1.5 ohms is on the high side for me, but I vape that resistance all the time. Any higher and I take a wrap or two off the coil. The largest coil I've ever used was a 5/64" drill bit/mandrel. Mandrel sizes from .055 - .08" are in the optimum zone, though on the smaller side is better. A little cotton.....well, vaping Nirvana. Good luck!
Wow I just read tihs whole 76 page thread in one sitting. It's been great cos I really appreciate my own Semovar so much more after reading it.
I have a beta (matte) Semovar, with the Sticker, and it was working great. Then I dropped the darn thing onto a hard wooden floor and then started getting E5 errors. I looked at the battery charge at 3.8volts at the time, and then a further press to get the battery voltage under load, which read 3.1volts. So basically that's a huge voltage drop. I removed the sticker and attached the battery tube directly to the chip section, and the voltage under load was 3.7volts, which is what I would expect. I reattached the sticker and got the same problem.
So I stripped the Sticker down into it's little components, cleaned everything and reassembled. That seemed to fix it, I examined everyting, looking for hairline cracks etc when it was in peices, and there was nothing. Then the problem randomly recurrs. The problem never happens with the battery directly connected to the Semovar.
Any ideas? Actually I can improve the voltage drop under load if I tinker with the brass screw on the bottom cap. I've stripped that down and fiddled with the spring etc.
Shame, I liked that Sticker, it made the form factor of the thing so great, a gripper mod basically.
While I'm posting about the Semovar, I remember the first vape I took off it. I had been vaping my DIY vanilla custard on my old SVD, and it was my first try mixing the custard. If I ran the SVD any higher than 6.5watts the custard tasted a bit burnt, so I had it at that. I had come to the conclusion I didn't like my custard mix all that much. Then the Semo arrived in the mail and I basically just swapped the Kayfun onto the Semo with my vanilla custard in it and set it to 6.6watts and had a test vape.
The result was, I could barely taste anything. So I wacked the Semo power up to 8 watts and tried again. WOW. My vanilla custard was suddenly absoluitely delicious. I could push the power harder and get a hell of a nice vape. So smooth, no burnt notes at all. Truly I've never looked back. The SVD just gathers dust now.
I have a beta (matte) Semovar, with the Sticker, and it was working great. Then I dropped the darn thing onto a hard wooden floor and then started getting E5 errors. I looked at the battery charge at 3.8volts at the time, and then a further press to get the battery voltage under load, which read 3.1volts. So basically that's a huge voltage drop. I removed the sticker and attached the battery tube directly to the chip section, and the voltage under load was 3.7volts, which is what I would expect. I reattached the sticker and got the same problem.
So I stripped the Sticker down into it's little components, cleaned everything and reassembled. That seemed to fix it, I examined everyting, looking for hairline cracks etc when it was in peices, and there was nothing. Then the problem randomly recurrs. The problem never happens with the battery directly connected to the Semovar.
Any ideas? Actually I can improve the voltage drop under load if I tinker with the brass screw on the bottom cap. I've stripped that down and fiddled with the spring etc.
Shame, I liked that Sticker, it made the form factor of the thing so great, a gripper mod basically.
While I'm posting about the Semovar, I remember the first vape I took off it. I had been vaping my DIY vanilla custard on my old SVD, and it was my first try mixing the custard. If I ran the SVD any higher than 6.5watts the custard tasted a bit burnt, so I had it at that. I had come to the conclusion I didn't like my custard mix all that much. Then the Semo arrived in the mail and I basically just swapped the Kayfun onto the Semo with my vanilla custard in it and set it to 6.6watts and had a test vape.
The result was, I could barely taste anything. So I wacked the Semo power up to 8 watts and tried again. WOW. My vanilla custard was suddenly absoluitely delicious. I could push the power harder and get a hell of a nice vape. So smooth, no burnt notes at all. Truly I've never looked back. The SVD just gathers dust now.
Well you have 2 of 18650 tubes right? Make me a deal on one of them. I could send you a 18500 or a 18350 tube if you want.
Dan
Sounds like I need to clean my semovar.... I get some serious voltage drop from some of my batteries. I just have so many batteries now I keep a stash always charged and when I see the E5 or blinking battery indicator, I just swap batteries out. But if a cleaning would help, I need to do that.
I'd love to see some pictures of that! . I've seen the sticker on the svoemesto website, but not fully assembled.
- Status
