Small Questions regarding Ody v2 short mode

[Aal_]

Hi guys and Imeo , so i was assembling my new Odysseus shot mode after I received the rebuildable part v2 and here are some questions I would like to ask:

1- I'm mixed up regarding the O-Ring under the small mouthpiece top cap. I ordered a set of O-rings for long mode (12) and on gg wiki it shows that there are one 9x2 oring and one 9x1.5 o-ring one of which goes under the small top cap. I tried the 9x2 but the o-ring is too fat and i cannot screw the small top cap all the way down when there is a mouthpiece. When I use the thinner o-ring, it catches the mouthpiece too tight as well. Imeo can you please give me the exact size of the o-ring under the small cap, was there any changes from before, why i cannot screw the top cap all the way down with the mouthpiece in there?

2- When I received the rebuildable, there was no o-ring under the nut residing inside the ceramic. I thought v2 rebuildable part has this. So when I was trying to switch the posts of one v2 rebuildable and one v1, I realized that the slotted post of v1 has shorter threads going into the ceramic and therefore the v2 small nut couldn't catch it. So I put a 3x2 o-ring under the nut and it is working fine. Any ideas regarding this?

3- One time before wicking I was turning the mouthpiece and I realized that the rebuildable part came out with it. Luckily ody was empty. I remember making sure the housing ring was tight. Any ideas on how to prevent this in the future?

I have experience in Penelope and Ody drip for a long time, but it is the first time I deal with Ody Short Mode, so it was expected to have some wierd problems

Thanks.

 

[fright88]

Hi guys and Imeo , so i was assembling my new Odysseus shot mode after I received the rebuildable part v2 and here are some questions I would like to ask:

1- I'm mixed up regarding the O-Ring under the small mouthpiece top cap. I ordered a set of O-rings for long mode (12) and on gg wiki it shows that there are one 9x2 oring and one 9x1.5 o-ring one of which goes under the small top cap. I tried the 9x2 but the o-ring is too fat and i cannot screw the small top cap all the way down when there is a mouthpiece. When I use the thinner o-ring, it catches the mouthpiece too tight as well. Imeo can you please give me the exact size of the o-ring under the small cap, was there any changes from before, why i cannot screw the top cap all the way down with the mouthpiece in there?

2- When I received the rebuildable, there was no o-ring under the nut residing inside the ceramic. I thought v2 rebuildable part has this. So when I was trying to switch the posts of one v2 rebuildable and one v1, I realized that the slotted post of v1 has shorter threads going into the ceramic and therefore the v2 small nut couldn't catch it. So I put a 3x2 o-ring under the nut and it is working fine. Any ideas regarding this?

3- One time before wicking I was turning the mouthpiece and I realized that the rebuildable part came out with it. Luckily ody was empty. I remember making sure the housing ring was tight. Any ideas on how to prevent this in the future?

I have experience in Penelope and Ody drip for a long time, but it is the first time I deal with Ody Short Mode, so it was expected to have some wierd problems

Thanks.

1 The small top cap is not supposed to screw all the way down. As a matter of fact you don't want to screw it to tight either because if you do it will pinch the o-ring and make it very difficult to adjust the liquit controll. That said I think the 9x2 is probably the right one.

2 That o-ring is there mostly to cushion the ceramic so it is probably good that you have the o-ring in there.

3 Might try lubing the threads on the ceramic housing. The o-ring on the underside of the posative pin usually helps to add some resistance so this doesn't happen unless your mouthpiece isn't mocing freely on the ceramic housing.

 

[Aal_]

1 The small top cap is not supposed to screw all the way down. As a matter of fact you don't want to screw it to tight either because if you do it will pinch the o-ring and make it very difficult to adjust the liquit controll. That said I think the 9x2 is probably the right one.

2 That o-ring is there mostly to cushion the ceramic so it is probably good that you have the o-ring in there.

3 Might try lubing the threads on the ceramic housing. The o-ring on the underside of the posative pin usually helps to add some resistance so this doesn't happen unless your mouthpiece isn't mocing freely on the ceramic housing.

Thanks fright, I have some comments:

1- The problem is that the gap is not small it is around 1.5-2 mm. I have never seen in videos such a big gap. not having this problem with my ody inside UFS although it is the same small cap and same mouthpiece (the top cap is different though as i learnt)
2- This is what I thought, but the funny thing the rebuildables came from Vassillis without the o-rings inside the ceramics. I thought these should be there.
3- i will lube everything and try again

 

[fright88]

With time the o-ring will rear down a bit. I don't have anything to measure the gap But I just put a brand new 9x2 in mine and it is the same size. Also just refrence point I can get 2 full turns on the top cap before I can't turn it anymore without really cranking on it and I only normally tighten it to right about 1.5 full turns.

As for number 2 I hear about this all the time. Not 100% sure what is up with it but it is one of the many reasons I try to keep 5-10 spares of all the gg sizes around.

And sounds good on 3. Also work it a bit. Try screwing and unscrewing it while the rebuildable part is off the base for a bit. Make sure there is no bing ups or gunk in the threads. A toothbrush or sometimes even a wire brush can be great for cleaning up gg threads.

 

[Aal_]

By the way I am using a top small cap from a ufs v2 are these the same as Odysseus v2. Maybe this is my problem, but I think they are the same.

 

[fright88]

My UFS is a V1 not sure if there were any changes to the most recient but my UFS cap has a larger gap when placed on my Ody. The reason for this be because on my ufs Cap the very top part you grip is thinner then on the Odys. On the UFS one it goes in there is a tiny ledge then it goes in some more to the threads. I will try to illistrate with text. But this little ledge makes the gap look larger since the threads are the same length

 

[fright88]

Ok I am a terrible artist but hopefully this will give you an idea. The top one is UFS top cap the bottom is Ody. They are both the same size in height. Both have the same thread length. But as you can see the UFS one has a ledge ish thing. Because of this it almost doubles the gap the ody top cap has. It should still work the same way though. The nut will keep the o-ring in and the o-ring keeps the juice in so it is really just a difference in looks.

 

[Aal_]

Maybe that is the problem. On e-smokeguru it said same as Odysseus, that's why I got it. If Imeo can confirm this I will contact vassillis to see what I can do.

 

[Aal_]

This is my small cap. The ledge is on the big top cap right? No ledge here.

 

[Aal_]

And this is the gap

 

[fright88]

Here are some pics of mine

Top Ody Cap on Ody
Second UFS V1 Cap on Ody
Third Ody cap left UFS right
excuse the dirty Ody I have been out of town helping a friend for the past couple weeks and havn't had my polishing supplies.

To me your cap looks very similar to my Ody cap At least more like it then my UFS cap. I suppose if the gap bothers you you could try another 9x2 o-ring or sanding the current one slightly thinner.

 

[Aal_]

I dunno my ufs v2 cap looks exactly the same as your Ody v2 cap. With Ody in Ufs no problem there, the cap can screw all the way but the neck of the refill cap on ufs is longer. Maybe ufs cap is longer than Ody. Imeo where are you?

 

[imeothanasis]

Congratulatios for your purchase aal

1. the right o-ring is the 9x2 aal. The 9x1,5 is wrong, where did you see this? And you cant totally screw the small cap. You will have a 1mm gap. Thats because if you would be able to totally screw it then o-ring wouldnt get pressed.

2. You did exactly as required aal. But the V2 rebuildable still has the o-ring under the nut that keeps positive wire. Maybe your seller didnt put it there

3. If you put the above o-ring under the nut that we talked on 2. then you will have the pressure you need, so rebuildable part will not get unscrewed. Also, make sure that after you totally screw the big ring around the ceramic housing, catch the rebuilable part with your fingers and try to turn it more. Thats it, the big ring is now tight.

Hi guys and Imeo , so i was assembling my new Odysseus shot mode after I received the rebuildable part v2 and here are some questions I would like to ask:

1- I'm mixed up regarding the O-Ring under the small mouthpiece top cap. I ordered a set of O-rings for long mode (12) and on gg wiki it shows that there are one 9x2 oring and one 9x1.5 o-ring one of which goes under the small top cap. I tried the 9x2 but the o-ring is too fat and i cannot screw the small top cap all the way down when there is a mouthpiece. When I use the thinner o-ring, it catches the mouthpiece too tight as well. Imeo can you please give me the exact size of the o-ring under the small cap, was there any changes from before, why i cannot screw the top cap all the way down with the mouthpiece in there?

2- When I received the rebuildable, there was no o-ring under the nut residing inside the ceramic. I thought v2 rebuildable part has this. So when I was trying to switch the posts of one v2 rebuildable and one v1, I realized that the slotted post of v1 has shorter threads going into the ceramic and therefore the v2 small nut couldn't catch it. So I put a 3x2 o-ring under the nut and it is working fine. Any ideas regarding this?

3- One time before wicking I was turning the mouthpiece and I realized that the rebuildable part came out with it. Luckily ody was empty. I remember making sure the housing ring was tight. Any ideas on how to prevent this in the future?

I have experience in Penelope and Ody drip for a long time, but it is the first time I deal with Ody Short Mode, so it was expected to have some wierd problems

Thanks.

 

[imeothanasis]

the new rebuildables are ok aal, no need for o-ring inside ceramic. As for the gap between small and big cap, its not the right one. Maybe you need to screw - unscrew sometimes the small cap against the big cap to make it fit right

Thanks fright, I have some comments:

1- The problem is that the gap is not small it is around 1.5-2 mm. I have never seen in videos such a big gap. not having this problem with my ody inside UFS although it is the same small cap and same mouthpiece (the top cap is different though as i learnt)
2- This is what I thought, but the funny thing the rebuildables came from Vassillis without the o-rings inside the ceramics. I thought these should be there.
3- i will lube everything and try again

 

[imeothanasis]

yes, they are the same aal

By the way I am using a top small cap from a ufs v2 are these the same as Odysseus v2. Maybe this is my problem, but I think they are the same.

 

[imeothanasis]

just like this fright

Ok I am a terrible artist but hopefully this will give you an idea. The top one is UFS top cap the bottom is Ody. They are both the same size in height. Both have the same thread length. But as you can see the UFS one has a ledge ish thing. Because of this it almost doubles the gap the ody top cap has. It should still work the same way though. The nut will keep the o-ring in and the o-ring keeps the juice in so it is really just a difference in looks.

 

[imeothanasis]

This is an Ody's small cap aal

This is my small cap. The ledge is on the big top cap right? No ledge here.
View attachment 170444

 

[Aal_]

Congratulatios for your purchase aal

1. the right o-ring is the 9x2 aal. The 9x1,5 is wrong, where did you see this? And you cant totally screw the small cap. You will have a 1mm gap. Thats because if you would be able to totally screw it then o-ring wouldnt get pressed.

2. You did exactly as required aal. But the V2 rebuildable still has the o-ring under the nut that keeps positive wire. Maybe your seller didnt put it there

3. If you put the above o-ring under the nut that we talked on 2. then you will have the pressure you need, so rebuildable part will not get unscrewed. Also, make sure that after you totally screw the big ring around the ceramic housing, catch the rebuilable part with your fingers and try to turn it more. Thats it, the big ring is now tight.

Thanks a lot Imeo. Do you mean that 1 mm gap is OK?

And regarding the oring I meant the one inside the ceramic, I think you got that.

I will try again tonight.

Thanks again, and thank you fright.

 

[imeothanasis]

I mean that 1mm gap is the right gap aal. All Odysseus have the same gap

I know what you mean about o-rings inside ceramic but you dont need them if you bought a rebuildable part from Vasilis the last 3-4 days

 

[Aal_]

OK lubed the hell out of everything. Gap is perfect now and mouthpiece turns easily (although I believe Penelope's mouthpiece is smoother). Filled it with boba's with triple wick and it is vaping perfectly mmmmm. Thanks a lot Imeo and fright.

Imeo one final question I noticed in zoranth's illustrations that when using ggts he is adding another 9x2 oring around the mouthpiece inside the refill big cap. Any reason for that? Maybe the rebuildable screws more inside the base and oring acts as early stopper?