• This forum has been archived

    If you'd like to post a thread, post it here instead!

    View Forum

Smok TFV4, its stock coils and RBA

Status
Not open for further replies.

VapGeek

Senior Member
Verified Member
Oct 11, 2015
213
114
47
Local
Not sure if i read it in this thread or another one. I had leaking problems and did exactly as advised by the forummers.

Screw the rba into the chimney first before screwing everything onto the deck. Leaking stopped immediately. Damn.

I guess the RBA and chimney couldn't seal properly if u did the other way round.
 

VapGeek

Senior Member
Verified Member
Oct 11, 2015
213
114
47
Local
Kept getting dry hits this afternoon, decided to rebuild my TF-R2 using my spare.
Then I notice the negative and positive 'post' of my current TF-R2 are almost touching each other (Paper width gap).
You can see the new TF-R2's post have a significant gap. Not sure why this happened? May be a manufacture variation or if it is because the 'electrical insulation' under the post on the left may have melted. So TF-R2 user take note.

View attachment 499757


View attachment 499758

Update: I used back the first TF-R2 (Very close post), no issue encountered so far. As for the 2nd TF-R2 (Wider gap between post), It's bit harder to screw in the cover, as it protrudes a bit too much, but luckily the post and the cover are not touching.
 

menace66

Full Member
Oct 1, 2015
39
10
43
I guess the RBA and chimney couldn't seal properly if u did the other way round.

Juz got my 2nd TFV4. This time ard when i screwed in the RBA into the chimney 1st, the RBA didn't contact the deck. Had to do it the other way ard for this 2nd tank. Good thing it didnt leak from the chimney like my 1st one did.

The TFV4 wins hands down in flavour but reliability and build quality is questionnable.
 
  • Like
Reactions: VapGeek

VapGeek

Senior Member
Verified Member
Oct 11, 2015
213
114
47
Local
I had the o-ring on the TF-R2 split on me on the 4th time I removed it, thus I ordered some O-rings for future replacement.

Below are the o-ring size that I have measured: ID*OD*CS (mm)

Part (Part Size) - O-ring Size
Drip Tip (6.25mm) - 6x9x1.5
Base to Glass (18mm) - 15x18x1.5
Cap to Glass (18mm) - 18x21x1.5
Cap to OCC/RBA (9mm) - 8x10x1.0
TF-R2 (12.5mm) - 9x11x1.0

I am getting a smaller sized o-ring for the 'cap to glass', since it is a bit loose now.

I am testing out the VMQ type of o-ring, supposely to be non-toxic. Alternative, can source for the clear type of o-ring, but the quality doesnt seem hardly enough for repetitively removal.

Update on the OUTDATED TFV4 tank (since so many has moved on to newer toys ;p)

Used the china made VMQ o-ring for the CAP to Glass and TF-R2 for a couple of days. So far no leaks.

For the CAP to Glass, I used the 15x18x1.5 o-ring as the I find the 18x21x1.5mm kind of loose fit on the CAP which may get pinched if I dont fit the glass very very carefully.
When I used the 15x18x1.5mm o-ring, it feels much easier to fit and remove the glass from the top CAP. Initially, I was worried it might cause leaks, but so far so good.

As for the TF-R2 side, no leaks so far. Got at 50 pieces per pack at a very very cheap price from THE auction site, I can afford to change weekly and it feels tougher than the stock o-ring.
 
  • Like
Reactions: menace66
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread