SmokTech The Natural - New mechanical device

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Chris474

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Just watched this video. I'm on a remote pc, so no audio. I'm assuming the cotton end faces up and the coils go around it?

I've tried this, its too much cotton for me, seriously, just tear off a small bit and stretch it out, you'll be able to see right through it and it'll only make the non oxidized SS a hair thicker. When it gets tight, you twist it like the coil is a threaded hole and you're screwing the wick in.

If you only have 32g, try taking a foot or so, fold it in half and put a finger through the bend, keep wringing your finger in circles a make a twisted length of wire, it will be a fairly tight twist when you're done. Hook it up until you know how much you need for your desired ohms then follow through with the Peter K steps. That works great too, its just more time consuming than using 28g.

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WinchellNomNom

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uploadfromtaptalk1362073873764.jpg

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meatsneakers

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After 2 years of VV mods, I decided to pick up a Natural to see if mechanical mods were adequate. After having custom dual 18650 box mods and a VAMO I wanted something smaller, decently made, attractive and reasonably priced - after reading this thread I decided on the Natural.

The last unregulated mod I used was a Roughstack almost 2 years ago and it wasn't great - bad switch, tarnished, odd button placement etc. This is a 180 - functions amazingly well and the vape is fantastic. I have joined the low ohm, low gauge bandwagon 1 ohm, 28 gauge coil with an AGA-t2, AW 1600 mah IMR's and I couldn't ask for more.

My only negative feedback would be that conductivity was not great out of the box, the switch was getting warm. I dismantled it completely and sanded the chrome plating to expose the brass wherever current flowed. Now under load, the battery drops .2v where it was previously .6v and the switch stays cool even during dry burns. The wattage swing from fully charged to the end of my typical vaping day is roughly 3 watts - 13w to 16w, which is not too noticeable as it is gradual.
 

meatsneakers

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Unscrew everything that has a slot in it and use a bit of sand paper. The chrome isn't as conductive as the brass underneath. That resistance reduces the voltage to the atty which matters a lot with low voltage/high amperage. That power turns into heat at the button, etc.

See this thread on another forum: http://forums.aussievapers.com/modding-technical/9701-smok-natural-did-hybrid-upgrade.html

I saw the same results from just sanding that studiovape did with all the extra brass pieces and tapping etc.
 

subtle_banter

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why so many wraps? I've never seen that many before.
James, 5+ hours! That's a mess!

You REALLY should try Petar K and the non-oxidized SS wick...you'd be up and running in 15 minutes. If you have 28g kanthal, wrap it really tightly around a 3/32 drill bit about 9 times. Pack the coils tight at first then stretch them just a bit. Put the bit in your wick hole and then screw the bottom wire to the screw next to the wick hole, wrap the top wire around the positive post and apply the top nut. Rinse a bit of SS under hot water or boil it for a bit. Wrap a tight wick that slips easily into the coil. Tear off a 1/2 x 1/2 wisp of cotton ball - I mean wisp...super thin. Roll that onto one end of your wick, this will insulate instead of oxidation and give you more vapor. Insert your wick, fill and vape...
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This was the fit right before adding cotton.
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EDO

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Unscrew everything that has a slot in it and use a bit of sand paper. The chrome isn't as conductive as the brass underneath. That resistance reduces the voltage to the atty which matters a lot with low voltage/high amperage. That power turns into heat at the button, etc.

See this thread on another forum: Smok Natural DID Hybrid & Upgrade

I saw the same results from just sanding that studiovape did with all the extra brass pieces and tapping etc.


Ok Thanks...Wow, I thought everything was stainless steel or steel in the Natural. Seems odd and dumb that they would plate the better conducting brass with chrome.
 

VapingTurtle

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Ok Thanks...Wow, I thought everything was stainless steel or steel in the Natural. Seems odd and dumb that they would plate the better conducting brass with chrome.

To the Chinese manufacturers, stainless steel is more a color than a material.
 

meatsneakers

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I gained 3 watts - 13w under load to 16w under load on a fresh battery. It was previously a swing of 13w to 10w throughout the day, now it is 16w to 13w. I think that is significant. If you are running standard ohm coils, then it won't make such a significant difference. At high amperage, every tenth of a volt counts. It only took me 30 minutes as well.

The body is made of stainless. The inner switch contacts are chrome plated brass or a similar alloy. The chrome is not as conductive as what is underneath which is why sanding away the chrome improves the voltage delivered to the atty under load.
 
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4matic

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I gained 3 watts - 13w under load to 16w under load on a fresh battery. It was previously a swing of 13w to 10w throughout the day, now it is 16w to 13w. I think that is significant. If you are running standard ohm coils, then it won't make such a significant difference. At high amperage, every tenth of a volt counts. It only took me 30 minutes as well.

The body is made of stainless. The inner switch contacts are chrome plated brass or a similar alloy. The chrome is not as conductive as what is underneath which is why sanding away the chrome improves the voltage delivered to the atty under load.

Will sanding down just the button contact and negative post be enough? Or will I need to sand the positive too?
 

EDO

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I gained 3 watts - 13w under load to 16w under load on a fresh battery. It was previously a swing of 13w to 10w throughout the day, now it is 16w to 13w. I think that is significant. If you are running standard ohm coils, then it won't make such a significant difference. At high amperage, every tenth of a volt counts. It only took me 30 minutes as well.

The body is made of stainless. The inner switch contacts are chrome plated brass or a similar alloy. The chrome is not as conductive as what is underneath which is why sanding away the chrome improves the voltage delivered to the atty under load.

I have 0.9 ohm coil going right now and it definitely made a huge difference. After sanding every single contact on the Natural I tested it out with a battery that was almost done as far as I was concerned. It vaped like I had put in a new battery.
 
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