Sure, anything that breaths at the bottom though, like a Terminator/Ody clone will run into problems. A real Odysseus has air grooves machined into the base.
SmokTech The Natural - New mechanical device
- Thread starter Adam the Aussie
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If you mean the gap between tubes, I've used an o-ring on mods that wouldn't close all the way. Adds a bit of grip as well if you don't mind the look.
My Natural will pretty much just have an IGO-L and in the future an AGA T2 on it, so airflow won't be an issue.
Just got my first mechanical mod in today! This Natural is AWESOME!
18350 mode is almost as tall as a 1000mah ego with nothing attached, which again, is AWESOME...and the 18650 mode is short as hell too!
Have an Igo-L on it with .7ohm kanthal/500 ss mesh wick and it's blowing my mind...thanks to who I bought it from on the classies, I think I have found my new vape method. Simply amazing!
18350 mode is almost as tall as a 1000mah ego with nothing attached, which again, is AWESOME...and the 18650 mode is short as hell too!
Have an Igo-L on it with .7ohm kanthal/500 ss mesh wick and it's blowing my mind...thanks to who I bought it from on the classies, I think I have found my new vape method. Simply amazing!
Is it possible for you to take a good picture of the natural with the IGO L on it, I saw one earlier in this thread I think but the quality wasn't so hot.
Decided to use my small electroplating rig to get rid of all the chrome. If you have no idea what that is, please don't attempt it yourself as there are caustic chemicals and electricity involved. Essentially, it uses the chrome from one part (the Natural switch parts) and deposits it on another piece of metal (a piece of copper).
It is overkill and I was bored.
After being stripped:
Washed up and acid neutralized:
Lock nut is chrome plated, I think it looks pretty sharp just brass:
It is overkill and I was bored.
After being stripped:
Washed up and acid neutralized:
Lock nut is chrome plated, I think it looks pretty sharp just brass:
Decided to use my small electroplating rig to get rid of all the chrome. If you have no idea what that is, please don't attempt it yourself as there are caustic chemicals and electricity involved. Essentially, it uses the chrome from one part (the Natural switch parts) and deposits it on another piece of metal (a piece of copper).
It is overkill and I was bored.
After being stripped:
Washed up and acid neutralized:
Lock nut is chrome plated, I think it looks pretty sharp just brass:
That look sharp man... just a quick question how do u take the negative screw off? Is it two pieces that screw off? Just wondering...
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The first pic is next to my vamo in shorty mode. This is before I filed down the 510 connector to make it flush. The second pic is afterwards. Keep in mind the cherryvape ming is way bigger than the knock off ming on the vamo. Don't mind my daughter's blankets in the first pic. She dragged them over for snuggle time.
Nice man, great idea. I do nickel plating and was thinking about doing this. Might I ask what you used for the electrolyte solution and how much power?Decided to use my small electroplating rig to get rid of all the chrome. If you have no idea what that is, please don't attempt it yourself as there are caustic chemicals and electricity involved. Essentially, it uses the chrome from one part (the Natural switch parts) and deposits it on another piece of metal (a piece of copper).
It is overkill and I was bored.
After being stripped:
Washed up and acid neutralized:
Lock nut is chrome plated, I think it looks pretty sharp just brass:
That is seriously cool. Did you by chance measure the voltage drop before and after?
Meat, I was about to bust out my own electrolysis machine, do you mind me asking what kind of amperage you use? I'm wondering if I can use my uber cheap battery charger in case it decides to quit, as opposed to my nice one which I would prefer not to kill. I'm assuming you can use pretty low amps with such small parts? Or am I mistaken?
Took my Natural apart and it's in my electrolysis rig as we speak... I'll post up pictures and possibly a video once they're done. Goodbye chrome plating, hello solid brass!
I used a bench supply current limited to one amp. It was in some weak HCI. The plating is really thin, only took a few seconds and they were stripped clean.
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Staircase, just took a measurement and it's .08 higher. Nothing huge, but if you have the switch apart and know how to strip chrome it's not much extra work.
edit-
Staircase, just took a measurement and it's .08 higher. Nothing huge, but if you have the switch apart and know how to strip chrome it's not much extra work.
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I was looking at conductivity of brass vs copper.....brass is about 30% as conductive as copper. What is the reason that the contacts in high end mods are always brass and not copper. Is copper too soft of a material?
A few reasons - copper is indeed softer and most of the switches screw together. Those threads would be even more prone to striping than brass threads. The main reason though is that copper oxidizes faster than brass - oxidation reduces current flow.
I would also love to know what voltage drop difference your copper plating made.
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