Smoktech Vmax Owners - tips, tricks and quirks

[fsroq]

Mine too, 4.1 off the charger, Vmax reads 8.0 or 8.1 for both.

About the versions, I do not believe smok ever talked about any version 1, 2 or 3. It where the vendors in Europe, after a bad start, started to talk about version 2 when selling the fixed button Vmax, and Version 3 for the one with the 3 volt starting point, the off turnable screen, and better paint job one.

 

[pwyll]

Mine too, 4.1 off the charger, Vmax reads 8.0 or 8.1 for both.

About the versions, I do not believe smok ever talked about any version 1, 2 or 3. It where the vendors in Europe, after a bad start, started to talk about version 2 when selling the fixed button Vmax, and Version 3 for the one with the 3 volt starting point, the off turnable screen, and better paint job one.

Then that makes perfect sense. I didn't think I'd ever heard of any "official" version numbers (although my silver one that defaults to 3.0 and came with a printed manual does have a very small sticker that says "New" on the box). Here it was the end users who started calling some "version 2" because there were obvious differences in the function of the device--namely defaulting to 3 volts and the ability to turn the display LED off. But US vendors were having a hard time keeping them in stock and would have burned through an initial shipment of high-percentage faulty buttons pretty quickly. The European vendors, on the other hand, could have simply gone through and tested each unit themselves, pulling out the bad ones for return, and then marketing them as a "version 2" to make it easier to tell customers they were getting non-defective units without having to assure each buyer individually.

smok does not differentiate = American buyers assume a new version based on new programming/firmware = European vendors "create" a new version based on doing Smok's quality control for them.

It's a workable theory, anyway--and we'll probably never know for sure whether the first batch were defective or the the very early units simply had a higher failure rate for being rushed to market.

 

[fsroq]

And after what happened with the first units, I know at least of two vendors in Spain that check through all of the units before shipping them to their clients. One has got a batch for 5 days here and still doesn´t ship them. But he also told me that for this batch there are nearly no faulty units. Its getting better.

 

[VAPNJ350]

Yep. My charger gets the AW IMR's to exactly 4.12 every time, but the VMax reads 8.0 to 8.1. It's notorious for the voltage readings to be slightly off--elsewhere there is a discussion about how the low voltage cut-off kicks in before the batteries meter as low as the VMax reads them. It sounds to me like it's either a faulty averaging algorithm or the voltage readings are deliberately set low to avoid over-discharging cheaper batteries that may have lower tolerances because the "false readings" are too consistent from one machine to another to be a case of poor metering, imo.

You nailed it right on the head, Smoktech set it up that way intentionally to avoid over discharging the cheaper batteries they knew people would try and use, Kurtus you really need to get some AW IMR's or the E'fest 18350's, you will more than likely notice a bit of a difference in your little quirks here and there. I've tested many batteries in now 4 different VMAX's, all my quirks come in when I put the cheaper IMR's in it. Everyone here will tell you my 1 pep peeve is putting cheap batteries in your nice expensive device and that my motto is "YOUR DEVICE IS ONLY AS GOOD AS THE BATTERIES INSIDE IT" if your having trouble getting a vendor to ship some AW's to you in Canada, PM me and I'll see what I can do to get some up there to ya. My 3 VMAX's all say 8.4V when I put in my batteries and check them, but I also use the Ultrafire WF-188 charger, which I think is the best, most accurate and safe charger for charging the IMR type cells, it charges them to 4.21v every single time without fail. And my "Lo" warning kicks in at 6.4V or 3.2V per battery. 7.2-7.4v with the cheapo's I tested. And reads 8.0-8.1 on the batt. check with the same cheapo batteries. The VMAX needs and is truly designed for IMR batteries with a higher "sustained or constant high amperage output" or high discharge rate if you will. The cheaper IMR's I've tested stay around 4-4.65 amps with a 3-5 amp draw, the AW's or equivalent quality IMR stays around 5-8amps up to 10 amps max on the same draw. Need I say more. Toss the cheapo's, your VMAX deserves nothing less than the best inside, you'll only reap the benefits.
Take care everyone.........J

I had to edit and add something to this post that I just realized and notice myself. All this battery voltage talk made me want to double check my last battery charge on the AW 18350's I have a make sure the charger was still charging the IMR's to their perfect sweet spot max voltage before damaging the cells occurs at 4.31 or higher. So I charged my AW last night before I went to sleep. Soon as they were done I set them on the table and called it a night. Just went and measured them after my previous post and their measuring 3.67 volts each. Now these were just purchased when I received the Chrome VMAX from Smoktech to test about 5, maybe 6 months ago, now I know all batteries lose a little of their charge overtime, but lose that much in hours. WOO!! Do the AW's really depleate in life cycle that much in a short period if time ? I guess now would be a good time for another discharge test on the bench. Wow...I'm kinda getting behind with testing. I've still got to do the V1 & V2 VMAX's head to head, the E'fest 18350 to the AW IMR 18350's, and now these AW 18350's . Bare with me folks ,I'll get it all done and posted, if I'm able, for you all to see the Raw numbers for your self. Anyway...food for thought, if you get time maybe check your batteries voltage next time the your batteries sit for a few hours before using them after a full charge up. Anyway...take care all. ...............J

 

[matrixxu]

I've metered my batteries to check accuracy of what the Vmax says in terms of charge of batteries, and it's all good, i get the 8.4 when the batteries are charged to 4.2 each. Lo warning kicks in most of the times at 6.4 but i ignore it for a while. The glitch of it not being able to function when i had other batteries than AW 18350 IMR and display off ( i had to turn display on for it to work ) has fixed itself and now the display can be kept off , no matter what batteries i use. There is a a noticeable difference in performance tho between using good high drains or some random protected 16340s or unprotected 18350s, especially after a few hours.

Still happy with the product, everything is working fine and accurate except for the voltage, and i'm one of the happy ones with the black finish ( chrome does not work for me, especially when 80% of the products state "chrome" and it's freaking nickel plated - i turn nickel black in one hour and i destroy any finish in a matter of 2-3 weeks, including crap drip tips, silver bullet button exterior rings , other "chrome" buttons etc. If anyone wants a black finish on their GG nickel product, send it over for a couple weeks )

 

[fuzzione]

kurtus there is no question you should accept J's advice here on the batteries without hesitation. One thing though, it's like I woke up and found myself in the Matrix this morning. Did I really just read that J is recommending non-AW batteries together with the AW's in the same sentence? What's next....burning hail falling from a clear sky? Dog's and cats living together?!

 

[pwyll]

kurtus there is no question you should accept J's advice here on the batteries without hesitation. One thing though, it's like I woke up and found myself in the Matrix this morning. Did I really just read that J is recommending non-AW batteries together with the AW's in the same sentence? What's next....burning hail falling from a clear sky? Dog's and cats living together?!

I dunno. Based on what I've seen of the comparison tests I'm willing to believe that either AW is putting out the EFEST's as a "house brand" or (considering there are EFEST chargers &c.) that another company is finally copying AW's "method." In the tests I've seen the EFEST's come in so close they could be AW's from a different batch and the only things I've ever seen test that close to an AW are the higher-end Panasonics that they keep for themselves rather than sending to AW.

Of course I'm just trusting those "other" results because I don't have the ability to test for myself like VAPNJ' does...

 

[DementEd571]

The carto punch does not have a stop. I just got mine...

Ouch, it looked like it did in the video from the Phiniac website. Dang, guess I'll consider trying out this one first EASTMAN Brass Self-Piercing Ice Machine Saddle Valve ; someone suggested it in my new members forum post. The cost is only $3.98 and if it sucks I can return it within 90 days for my money back.

 

[DementEd571]

I read most of these posts for the specifics about the VMax advantages and the internal workings (great stuff, learned a lot about vaping in general as well as the specific model), but do not recall discussion about lanyard use with it. Is there a lanyard clasp setup created for this VV or do I have to buy/make a bag lanyard to use for it?

I broke 2 Ego-T's before I finally bought a lanyard setup for it; once in my pocket and the other time at the side of my leg while driving (leaned over to look behind me and snapped it in half.) This base unit is a little too costly to mess around for my budget.

 

[kurtus]

Thanks everyone for your input, I was actually on the super t site a couple days ago but they are closed till Wednesday so I spent my money on 2 rebuildable atties instead lol. When I bought my vmax I didn't have a clue that the batts being provided where crap knock offs but I am fully aware that they are no good.....just stings a little cause thats a waste of money. Your right though j and I do need to pony up for the good stuff cause I too was having the reset to 5v issue with a 1.5ohm atty, to much current draw for the crap sticks I assume. Thanks for the offer on the battery shipping issue too and if I can't get anyone to ship to me I'll let u know. Kurt

 

[kurtus]

Ouch, it looked like it did in the video from the Phiniac website. Dang, guess I'll consider trying out this one first EASTMAN Brass Self-Piercing Ice Machine Saddle Valve ; someone suggested it in my new members forum post. The cost is only $3.98 and if it sucks I can return it within 90 days for my money back.

Thats basically what I use too but when I got it the first thing I did was pull the piercing bolt out and filed it to an extreamly pointy tip. I tried it before doing that and I could hear it pop once it pierced the carto, after I sharpened it it didn't make a sound cause it works like a hot knife through butter now. One thing though it will only last for about 50 punches before needing to be re-filed cause the material is not very hard imo, keep an eye on the point to see if it's rounding up on you......or buy 4 of them at that price lol

 

[Freddie]

Thats basically what I use too but when I got it the first thing I did was pull the piercing bolt out and filed it to an extreamly pointy tip. I tried it before doing that and I could hear it pop once it pierced the carto, after I sharpened it it didn't make a sound cause it works like a hot knife through butter now. One thing though it will only last for about 50 punches before needing to be re-filed cause the material is not very hard imo, keep an eye on the point to see if it's rounding up on you......or buy 4 of them at that price lol

If you are going to punch your cartos, I would HIGHLY recommend the "TINY MITE" from Carolina Vapes! The tip is CARBIDE and it does flanged and 801 Fusion cartos! I have used 5 different carto punches and have found the "TINY MITE" to be the BEST one!

 

[Freddie]

BTW, the "TINY MITE" does have a STOP!

 

[kurtus]

Just thought I'd throw this out there for our Candian brothers and sisters looking for aw imr 18350 batts inside of Canada at a good price, vaporus is carrying them @ 7.99 each, use discount code ecf10 for 10% off and shipping is $10 express. 4 batts all in is $43.62 shipped which seems not too bad and they will get to you quickly.

 

[Lonnie Lepp]

, ...Im just a smooth lines kinda guy with no protruding edges ..but to each his own, ....

I too like the smooth sleek look.
Wish I could get a solid center extender for the transition from my Vmax to the flat bottom of my DCT 6 mil tank. That would cover the bevel at the top of the Vmax.

 

[neeceann]

that is so awesome. I wish my vmax was as cool as yours.

 

[Lonnie Lepp]

.... Is there a lanyard clasp setup created for this VV or do I have to buy/make a bag lanyard to use for it?

I broke 2 Ego-T's before I finally bought a lanyard setup for it; once in my pocket and the other time at the side of my leg while driving (leaned over to look behind me and snapped it in half.) This base unit is a little too costly to mess around for my budget.

I took my Vmax and my eGo to Ace Hardware and tried different o-rings till I found the ones that fit snugly on each unit.
I have 2 lanyards that have a ~3" siring looped on the end that had clasps on them. I removed the clasps. I secured the o-ring to the string loop. I slid the o-ring on to my units and now I have a Lanyard set up for under $10. You can get cheep lanyards at Office Max or Office Depot.

 

[pwyll]

Ouch, it looked like it did in the video from the Phiniac website. Dang, guess I'll consider trying out this one first EASTMAN Brass Self-Piercing Ice Machine Saddle Valve ; someone suggested it in my new members forum post. The cost is only $3.98 and if it sucks I can return it within 90 days for my money back.

In the video Chris is punching an 801 fusion, so the collar at the bottom acts as a stop--but it's on the carto and not the punch.

I've been using a saddle valve for about eight months and have just gotten one of the Siam carto punches from Phiniac, so I can offer a direct comparison.

Both use a sharpened screw to punch, but the Siam punch uses hardened carbide so it will theoretically last longer. I've heard the saddle valves last anywhere from 4 to 50 cartos before needing to be replaced, but after 30 cartos I still have no indication of dulling. On the other hand, the Siam mods will have replacement screws available for their punch eventually, so the first replacement will make the Siam punch more economical.

People talk about the saddle valve deforming cartos. It comes with a rubber pad installed and another to set on the bottom--I epoxied the second pad in place so the carto does not touch metal at all and have never had a problem with deformation. Looking at a carto punched with the saddle valve and one punched with the Siam punch, I can't tell a difference.

With the Siam mod you simply slide the carto so the bottom is even with the edge and start screwing. With the saddle valve you do the same, but then you have to tighten down the two screws to holde the carto in place. If you do not get them tight enough the carto will roll under the screw and deform without punching. If you have the screws unevenly tightened the carto will roll under the screw and deform without punching. It's not rocket science but there is a learning curve--I actually punched my first two perfectly and then ruined three trying to figure out what I did right the first two times. The Siam punch is "fool-proof" in that regard, but it still takes a little practice figuring out exactly how to punch the holes the way you want them (which also applies to the saddle valve).

I heartily recommend the Siam punch--it's easier to use, and it's more compact so it fits in a pocket or gear box/bag easier. On the other hand, I suspect the people that put down the saddle valve were expecting to much because the seem to work as well as any other punch in my experience...

 

[VAPNJ350]

I dunno. Based on what I've seen of the comparison tests I'm willing to believe that either AW is putting out the EFEST's as a "house brand" or (considering there are EFEST chargers &c.) that another company is finally copying AW's "method." In the tests I've seen the EFEST's come in so close they could be AW's from a different batch and the only things I've ever seen test that close to an AW are the higher-end Panasonics that they keep for themselves rather than sending to AW.

Of course I'm just trusting those "other" results because I don't have the ability to test for myself like VAPNJ' does...

I think your right on this one. I've looked over the test data that was sent to me and I tell ya folks I don't think I've EVER had 2 different name batteries come so close in comparison....EVER !! I can't say for sure the E'fest are AW's underneath or that the AW's are really E'Fest underneath, but I will say they are remarkably even in power and data numbers. I flash the screen with the test curves from AW to Efest real fast back and forth and although the curve is so slightly different the ending numbers are basically the same. The curves are soooooo close. Too close if ya pickin up what Im puttin down. I will try my best to get these up and posted so you all can see what I mean.

 

[Freddie]

My VMAX's Black and Silver with 510 to 801 adapters for the Fusions...CHEEHOO!